Gunsmithing Getting heavy carbon build up off an SD barrel?

[nikonNUT]

Hey guys,
Have a carbon removal question. I have an APC9SD and I let the carbon on the barrel aka the bleed off ports get a little out of control. Wanting to get it cleaned up and wanted to ask for thoughts on the process I have chosen. I have a tool that is pretty much a battery terminal tool set into a long extension (like a MP5SD cleaning tool) so you can just twist it to scour the carbon off and my plan is this...
Soak the area with Boretech C4 let is sit. Re-wet the area and scrub it with the tool. Follow up by flushing the area with C4 to flush away debris and loose carbon. Repeat the process until I am happy with the result. I will follow this with a general cleaning and then stay on top of the barrel cleaning process going forward so I don't have to deal with it again. Do y'all see any issues with my process? Should I use a stronger solvent? Berryman's B-12 Chem-Tool was suggested but that might be a bit much and might melt the 3d printed tool! Look forward to reading your thoughts and opinions. Thank you in advance!

 

[vh20]

The title sounds like you’re at a party.

 

[nikonNUT]

The title sounds like you’re at a party.

That's fair! Fixed the thread title!

 

[vh20]

Well, no one has responded to your thread, and I made fun of the title, so now I kind of feel obligated to respond .

Your plan sounds like a good one. You may have to experiment with a few different solvents if that one isn't getting it (I've never used it). For carbon I usually use Hoppe's or hot lacquer thinner.

 

[nikonNUT]

Well, no one has responded to your thread, and I made fun of the title, so now I kind of feel obligated to respond .

Your plan sounds like a good one. You may have to experiment with a few different solvents if that one isn't getting it (I've never used it). For carbon I usually use Hoppe's or hot lacquer thinner.

I apprecaite it, sir! I've been using the termina; tool dry and have had ok results thus far but I think my arm is gonna fall off! It's making a dent but I am hitting a point dimisihing return and the brush seems to be burnishing the carbon at this point. Hoping the C4 (or maybe Decimator) can soften or get under the carbon and lift it so the tool can do a better job. I'm scared to use anything steel to scrape as the carbon butts right up to the threads and it would impossible to chase them if I boogered one up!

 

[Cascade Hemi]

Soak the barrel in Breakthrough.

 

[nikonNUT]

Soak the barrel in Breakthrough.

I will order some. Thank you, sir! I have BoreTech C4 and Schletek Carbon remover on hand. One of them has to work!

 

[Kadams1563]

CLR

 

[Vivacious Stallion]

Have you reached out to B&T about this? I would be surprised if they didnt already have a tool or recommendation. I have a gen 1 APC9, but I can imagine the build up on the SD would be pretty rough to get off.

I use straight CLR in my cans and tend to use C4 on my brakes. Let us know what worked.

 

[wyve]

On my MP5SD I start with the barrel brush. Then there's usually a bunch of stuff in the bleed off holes in the barrel. I normally take a pick or something sharp and stick it in the holes to clear them out. Then invert gun and shake that stuff out

 

[nikonNUT]

Have you reached out to B&T about this? I would be surprised if they didnt already have a tool or recommendation. I have a gen 1 APC9, but I can imagine the build up on the SD would be pretty rough to get off.

I use straight CLR in my cans and tend to use C4 on my brakes. Let us know what worked.

There is a lot a aluminum in close proximity to the barrel so I think CLR is a no go. B&T did recomend Schletek carbon remover (LOTS of Toulene!) so that is inbound. As far as tool there is no support from B&T but Idaho 2A Tactical has me covered with their in house designed tool (even hooks to a vacuum to coral the cancer in dust form ). I also have Ballistols new suppressor cleaner and it does a great job on the carbon in the can so that's an option

On my MP5SD I start with the barrel brush. Then there's usually a bunch of stuff in the bleed off holes in the barrel. I normally take a pick or something sharp and stick it in the holes to clear them out. Then invert gun and shake that stuff out

100%. I want to keep the bleed off holes clear so that everything works right and if it builds up too much it impedes suppressor removal. The holes look great but there a lot of carbon just built up and I have gotten as far as i can without a little chemical help. Honestly the whole gun need a good bath so that is this weekends project. In the future I will pull the can with the quickness as soon as I finish shooting and hit the barrel with the tool while everything is soft-ish. Lesson learned. SDs are dirty boys!

 

[wyve]

100%. I want to keep the bleed off holes clear so that everything works right and if it builds up too much it impedes suppressor removal. The holes look great but there a lot of carbon just built up and I have gotten as far as i can without a little chemical help. Honestly the whole gun need a good bath so that is this weekends project. In the future I will pull the can with the quickness as soon as I finish shooting and hit the barrel with the tool while everything is soft-ish. Lesson learned. SDs are dirty boys!

I haven't done crazy numbers at range days with my SD. Normal trip is up to 200. And I also clean after every time. I honestly hadn't considered too much build up impeding suppressor removal. I'm not personally worried about it. SD cans come off real easy.
They do be dirty guns though!

 

[nikonNUT]

I haven't done crazy numbers at range days with my SD. Normal trip is up to 200. And I also clean after every time. I honestly hadn't considered too much build up impeding suppressor removal. I'm not personally worried about it. SD cans come off real easy.
They do be dirty guns though!

That was the spark for my cleaning concern. I went to unscrew the can and it felt odd. At first I thought maybe I had cooked the o-ring that the suppressor seats against to the can and it was dragging across the barrel threads. When I got it off I saw that there was a bunch of carbon build up ahead of the ports on the barrel proper. It was bad enough that the can cut threads into the build up as I cranked it off. That got my attention and shoved me down this path.

 

[wyve]

That was the spark for my cleaning concern. I went to unscrew the can and it felt odd. At first I thought maybe I had cooked the o-ring that the suppressor seats against to the can and it was dragging across the barrel threads. When I got it off I saw that there was a bunch of carbon build up ahead of the ports on the barrel proper. It was bad enough that the can cut threads into the build up as I cranked it off. That got my attention and shoved me down this path.

Well then. That's interesting. What can does your gun use? The part about the o-ring had me a little confused. Like 99.9% sure there's no o-rings in traditional SD cans. Got me curious.

 

[nikonNUT]

Well then. That's interesting. What can does your gun use? The part about the o-ring had me a little confused. Like 99.9% sure there's no o-rings in traditional SD cans. Got me curious.

It's the B&T SD-988199-C-US (Compact can that came with my APC9SD). B&T runs a 16mm x1.5mm viton o-ring behind the threads. Don't ask me why.

 

[nikonNUT]

Well a couple hours, Boretech C4, an I2AT cleaning tool, and a weird little cellphone prying tool I had laying around and she is pretty clean! Might be cIeaner than it left the factory. thnk as long as I stay on top of scrbbing the barrel and bleed off ports after every range trip it should be good!

Just to add, these B&Ts are laser beams!