Getting started reloading

[mmcmah]

Hi everyone,

i am am a complete newbie to reloading. I've read the stickies and other articles in other web sites to get oriented. If anyone would care to suggest a very good starting kit (buy once, cry once), feel free, but there is no need if you don't want to.

I'm going to be reloading for rifles only. I plan to reload about 2,000 rounds a year. Main motivation is the new AI AX338 that I just got. That Lapua factory ammo sure is expensive! That will likely be my main use, but I'm also looking to reload for my P308.

For now, I'm interested in handloading for precision (long distance for 338 and general fun of tinkering with 308). I'm looking at a starter kit which I can upgrade as necessary with a digital FX-120i scale due to it's speed and accuracy (at least if I can still get one at $400, seems like they're backordered).

Aside from giving you a general sense of my intentions, I also had a few specific questions:
1. Can I use Retumbo for 308s? If I can, I presume I'll have to dial down the grains?
2. Can I use CCI #250 primers on 308? Same as above, if so?
3. Can I reuse the Hornady and Federal factory ammo brass that I currently have to reload for my 308?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Michael

 

[ksthomas]

Michael,

Do yourself a favor here, and get a reloading manual to start with. Read it cover to cover, especially the areas which describe the reloading process, the "how" and "whys" of every step. I might also suggest something like "The ABC's or Reloading" or one of the many NRA publications dealing with handloading. These will not only answer the questions that you've posed here, but a great many others that you don't even know to ask yet. The relationships of powder speed (burn rate) to case capacity, for example, and why you can't always (and shouldn't) use the same powders in disparate cartridges like the 308 Win and the 338 Lapua. Your comment about "presume" scares me a bit. Not the sort of activity wherein you ever want to assume or presume anything. KNOW! Check, verify and cross check. When something doesn't make sense to you, research it until you understand the issues, and it does make sense. You'll be able to find all the help you need on sites like this, but you need to do the basic groundwork yourself before you start asking questions on the internet. Remember, there's no filter here for good information vs. bad information, and for a newbie, it can be hard to tell the difference. Reading the reference works from a known, reputable source is the best way to get off to a good start.

Seriously, I hope this helps.

 

[Country]

If you are going to load precision ammo then a kit is not the best way to go.
I would buy seperate products that suit the job .
Redding competition die set.
Harrels or Redding powder measure. If you want to go electronic that's up to you but they don't last
Redding scales. If you want to go electronic tha's up to you but they don't last .
Redding Ultra mag press .
Retumbo powder is too slow for 308 forget it. Use Varget with Federal 210 primers .
The brass should be fine if it's once fired .

 

[steve123]

Hi Michael,

RCBS or Redding would be my pick for a kit.

If I were to buy a press alone I look for a Forster coax.

Here's a few things I've appreciated that have made a difference for me.

Scott Parker tuned Ohaus 505! This scale is accurate to a kernel. Personally I have not had good luck with 3 E-scales.

Saturn caliber specific funnels, nice because they sit on the case.

NECO dry case lube.

Imperial die wax.

Inertia bullet puller.

Thumblers tumbler and Stainless media.

Wilson micrometer trimmer, nice because it can be reset to the same exact place for different cartridges.

Innovative Technology products Innovative Technologies - Reloading Equipment Digital headspace gauge.

Best not to mix different brands of brass for precision. Also best if it's the same lot #.

 

[siglover]

Hi everyone,

i am am a complete newbie to reloading. I've read the stickies and other articles in other web sites to get oriented. If anyone would care to suggest a very good starting kit (buy once, cry once), feel free, but there is no need if you don't want to.

I'm going to be reloading for rifles only. I plan to reload about 2,000 rounds a year. Main motivation is the new AI AX338 that I just got. That Lapua factory ammo sure is expensive! That will likely be my main use, but I'm also looking to reload for my P308.

For now, I'm interested in handloading for precision (long distance for 338 and general fun of tinkering with 308). I'm looking at a starter kit which I can upgrade as necessary with a digital FX-120i scale due to it's speed and accuracy (at least if I can still get one at $400, seems like they're backordered).

Aside from giving you a general sense of my intentions, I also had a few specific questions:
1. Can I use Retumbo for 308s? If I can, I presume I'll have to dial down the grains?
2. Can I use CCI #250 primers on 308? Same as above, if so?
3. Can I reuse the Hornady and Federal factory ammo brass that I currently have to reload for my 308?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Michael

I was in your shows a few years ago. Best advice I can give you is read, read and read some more before you start. It will save you a lot of cash and headaches.

Also it would help tremendously if you can connect with someone locally that has reloaded and knows what they are doing. You can scare some people online when you ask if you can use a magnum primer in a non-magnum round.

308 is the perfect round to get started with on a single press. Get yourself some Varget and CCI 200 and start experimenting. Use the book for receipts and stay out of the red at first. I have the Layman and Hornady. its alot of fun once your all setup and know what your doing. Good luck!

 

[CMH]

Some very good advice here. You would do well to take a look at what Kevin has recommended.

Michael,

Do yourself a favor here, and get a reloading manual to start with. Read it cover to cover, especially the areas which describe the reloading process, the "how" and "whys" of every step. I might also suggest something like "The ABC's or Reloading" or one of the many NRA publications dealing with handloading. These will not only answer the questions that you've posed here, but a great many others that you don't even know to ask yet. The relationships of powder speed (burn rate) to case capacity, for example, and why you can't always (and shouldn't) use the same powders in disparate cartridges like the 308 Win and the 338 Lapua. Your comment about "presume" scares me a bit. Not the sort of activity wherein you ever want to assume or presume anything. KNOW! Check, verify and cross check. When something doesn't make sense to you, research it until you understand the issues, and it does make sense. You'll be able to find all the help you need on sites like this, but you need to do the basic groundwork yourself before you start asking questions on the internet. Remember, there's no filter here for good information vs. bad information, and for a newbie, it can be hard to tell the difference. Reading the reference works from a known, reputable source is the best way to get off to a good start.

Seriously, I hope this helps.

 

[JGorski]

Indeed, kev has some good advise. And the answers to your ? No, yes & Yes.

 

[mmcmah]

Thank you all for your advice. In addition to continuing my reading online, I am going to get a manual or two and read them in depth. I know when I don't know enough, and this is definitely one of those areas!

I am also going to try to hook up with someone locally (Denver) to see if they'll be kind enough to show me their process once I get more informed.

 

[ksthomas]

mmcmah,

Don't hesitate to ask for advice, but as I said, backstop that with some basic, solid reference material on your own shelves. Believe me, you can never have too many references. Start with the basics, and the 308 Win is a great one to begin with. It's easy to load for, not at all temperamental, and there's a huge selection of powders, bullets and primers that will give you terrific results with a little care and attention to detail.

I'm a bit mixed about having someone else show you how to load. Good, if they're good, not so good, if they're going to teach you bad habits or give you bad information. This is why I suggest the manuals. When I started, I had no one to show me the process, and no one who knew anything about it one way or the other. What I learned, I learned from reading manuals, cover to cover. Several manuals, and digesting the differences between then, understanding why those differences exist, and how to best deal with them. Don't worry about advanced techniques yet, and just concentrate on the basic reloading process. Once you've got a good handle on that, you'll move naturally into the more involved steps such as Benchrest methods, loading for autoloaders (advanced handloading there), and so on.

 

[mmcmah]

Thanks again, Kevin. Yes, my first step is to get some manuals digested and then proceed from there.

 

[mmcmah]

mmcmah,

Don't hesitate to ask for advice, but as I said, backstop that with some basic, solid reference material on your own shelves. Believe me, you can never have too many references. Start with the basics, and the 308 Win is a great one to begin with. It's easy to load for, not at all temperamental, and there's a huge selection of powders, bullets and primers that will give you terrific results with a little care and attention to detail.

I'm a bit mixed about having someone else show you how to load. Good, if they're good, not so good, if they're going to teach you bad habits or give you bad information. This is why I suggest the manuals. When I started, I had no one to show me the process, and no one who knew anything about it one way or the other. What I learned, I learned from reading manuals, cover to cover. Several manuals, and digesting the differences between then, understanding why those differences exist, and how to best deal with them. Don't worry about advanced techniques yet, and just concentrate on the basic reloading process. Once you've got a good handle on that, you'll move naturally into the more involved steps such as Benchrest methods, loading for autoloaders (advanced handloading there), and so on.

I've herd differing views on the different manuals. As I'm looking at Hodgdon powder, I'm going to get their manual. I've also heard good things about the Lyman manual and the "ABCs". Do you agree with those choices?

 

[Pinecone]

Hodgdon doesn't do a "manual." They put out an annual reloading guide, that is more like a thick magazine. The powder companies pretty much put their data up on the web. Hodgdon (includes IMR, WW, and Hodgdon powders), Accurate, Alliant, RamShot, and Vihta Vouri all have data on the web.

Lyman Manual is a great resource.

The bullet makers all put out manuals. I normally keep current Sierra and Hornady manuals. I will probably pick up a Berger manual.

 

[Glen1978]

Im in your shoes but been reloading for about a week now. So with that being said I can tell you the conclusions I have come to. Buy a kit (Rockchucker Supreme Master kit). You can get them for $300 shipped off eBay with a $50 dollar rebate. There is some stuff in the kit you dont need, some stuff you can use to get by till you decide to upgrade and some stuff that you will always use. I thought about buying it piece by piece to get really good stuff but here is my take on it. This is the stuff you HAVE TO HAVE!

RockChucker Supreme press ~ $130
RCBS 5-0-5 scales ~ $87
powder funnel ~ $10
case holders ~ $7
chamfer / debur tool ~ $17

There is $251 right there. The kit is $300 - 50. There are alot of other things that come in that kit that are just extras and Ill get to that in a minute (powder dispenser, case lube pad, lube, hand brush) I have found out some things and I could be wrong but here is what I do, I dont use the powder dispenser loading my "good" .308 rounds (I will use it to load my pistol rounds). I hand weigh all of them and use a .40 cal shell with some wire wrapped around it to load the scale.....powder tricklers are a waste of money IMO. I can trickle one kernel VERY easily with my .40 cal shell. OR as I heard one old timer say along the way...."God gave you two powder tricklers.....your hands". The case lube pad hasnt been used. Imperial sizing wax is what I use and it works GREAT! Put some on your fingers and swab the casing a little and done with NO problems F/L sizing. As far as trimmers go I bought the Little Crow Gunworks WFT for $75 and chucked it up in my corded drill and it works great once set up. For dies, I bought the Forster Ultra Micrometer set for $96 bucks. Best deal out I think and easy to use. You have to have some calipers. All the cheap ones ($20-$40 dollar ones) appear to be the SAME brand just different labels. Your make bullets, not rockets, get some from Harbor Freight for $20 bucks. As for the digital scales.....I bought a GemPro250 and while accurate it takes awhile to settle down and "pick" a number. I paid $105 shipped and will take $105 shipped if your interested PM me. Best bang for the buck scale from everything I read. I will stick to hand weighing. As for anything else there are alot of "toys" out there to make things better but I think I have a pretty good setup. I still need a few things I guess (comparator, headspace guage, OAL gauge) but I can buy them as I go it I wana fine tune my loads. Im shooting and having a ball! Its a real pleasure to know you built that bullet that didnt blow up in your face and is 1 moa or better down range. I picked up the Lyman 49th edition book and read it over really well to make sure I understood what was going on. The starting charges in it are WAY less than Hodgdon starting charges. From one worm to another have fun and be safe, triple check and triple measure. Read, read, read and dont get all caught up in it. These guys on here have been doing this for years and are tweaking everything. Start simple till you know what your doing. Sorry so long. If you have any specific questions shoot me a PM.