Gewehr 98 action

[bodhisafa]

Recently took delivery of a German K98 (bare action) and would like to build a hunting rifle. I have lots of questions and need to find an expert Mauser gunsmith ...any suggestions?

I’m thinking something based on the Winchester 284 case would be safe to run in this action?

Also, I have a Bartlein 6mm barrel in 7.5 twist MTU contour sitting around, is this too big a contour for this action?

 

[sandwarrior]

The barrel is just fine of a contour for this action. I have blanks that were never turned down from 1.250" sitting in some of my old Mauser actions. I have a 6-.284 as one of them. It shoots fantastic, although I've set the barrel back twice already. It doesn't take much in that overbore situation.

Personally, with that 6mm and the Mauser feed system, getting as close to a Mauser case will give you the least headaches. However, there are now aftermarket bottom metal (composite) or stocks like https://www.archangelmanufacturing.com/archangelaa98mauserstock

The cool thing is you can get mags from 5-20 rounds.

So, the easy thing would be to do a 6mm rem or a necked down, 6x55 (Swede necked to 6mm). Or, do a case based on the .308 like the .243. With the shorter mags you could also do a Creed. The barrel you started with is really a good choice for long range. And, with todays bullets getting better all the time, flexibility.

The full length Mauser actions can handle up to a 30-06 based case too. Yours should be full length, not intermediate (like Yugo M48's)

 

[bodhisafa]

So if I am understanding this correctly I can build any cartridge based of any of these:
308
30-06
284
Anything else?

 

[Dan M]

Not to nit pick, but that is a Gewehr 98 receiver, DWM 1916.

Is that the original bolt?

 

[bodhisafa]

My apologies if the error. It was given to me by my father in law. He purchased it years ago so I am not sure on the bolt answer.

What are the differences between the German k98 and this receiver?

 

[RTH1800]

You will be far better off to not use the receiver. You can buy a custom Mauser
Of about any configuration for pennies on the dollar. Sad but true. Great action just makes no sense.

 

[bodhisafa]

All numbers are matching all over

 

[bodhisafa]

You will be far better off to not use the receiver. You can buy a custom Mauser
Of about any configuration for pennies on the dollar. Sad but true. Great action just makes no sense.

I’m not following, it’s a great action but it does not make sense to build off it?

 

[RTH1800]

You can buy a rifle done on a similar action for 10% of what you will spend building it. Still a good action.
It’s like inheriting a ‘67 Corvette 427 motor. Really cool but makes no sense to build a car on it. Sell the motor and buy the car you want. Dollars ahead.

 

[sandwarrior]

I’m not following, it’s a great action but it does not make sense to build off it?

i think what he is saying is restore that action to it's former glory, and not build a new custom off of it. It's all matching and not drill and tapped for a scope.

This brings up the issue that the stock you find and the barrel and stock parts won't have the same serial number. It's a sturdy action and yes you can build any cartridge of the above named cases on it.

Added: A custom is going to cost no matter what. And, quite often you never get the money out of any custom that you put into it. If you do it the way YOU want. Someone will always come along and say I want X-why and Zee why it should be different. But, if it's the way you want it, then it's a lot more fun to shoot it.

I've bought a lot of "custom" Mausers over the years from other people and never really gotten all that I wanted. Something to work with though. Starting from scratch, expect it to cost at least a grand by the time you get all the stuff you want on it.

Also, I had to think of his name, but he is a great Mauser gunsmith, his name is Jim Kobe. He barreled a bunch of my Mausers for me and they shoot fantastic. I don't know if he is still active, but he's in Bloomington, Minnesota.

 

[Dan M]

My apologies if the error. It was given to me by my father in law. He purchased it years ago so I am not sure on the bolt answer.

What are the differences between the German k98 and this receiver?

The straight bolt handle mostly.

Since it isn’t in it’s original configuration it is extremely difficult to determine how many times it was rebuilt (the Germans stamped a number in the center of the buttplate, identifying the rebuild facility during the Great War and stamped the receiver in later eras). The receriver appears blued, indicating rebuild in either the Wiemar or Nazi era.

I have a few Gewehr 98s...one of them, a Danzig 1916, has a slight bit of bolt lug setback. If your heart is set on building on this action, get it checked out by a reputable smith before sinking any money into it.

Good luck!

 

[sirhrmechanic]

The economics of the build are questionable... mainly because to make the action into a fine sporter will cost you anywhere betweeen 6 - 10K dollars... and custom Mauser's are all over the place for $1,000 to $2,000 for some of the best of the best... and you can find nice ones for $600 if you look around!

That said, building a custom rifle, especially on an action that came from your family... is one of those 'once in a lifetime' things that you can't go wrong doing if it's what you want to do for you.

My .416 Taylor cost way, way more than I could probably sell it for. But that's not the point. It is a perfect rifle and I have loved it every time I carried it Economics.... NO. Passion, yes!

Never question the idea that building a gun is about economics. It's not. Ever. But especially when it comes to a family piece or a dream, economics have nothing at all to do with it. Follow your dream!

Last, a 1916 DWM action with matching numbers is a pretty nice action to restore. But, again, probably not economical as the 'finished' gun will be restored. Not original. So from that perspective, I would not write that action off as a candidate. Especially since it was your dad's. Though if I were doing another build, I would start with an Argentine Mauser. Probably the nicest action there is for a custom build!

Again... follow your heart, not your checking account on this one!

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[sandwarrior]

The economics of the build are questionable... mainly because to make the action into a fine sporter will cost you anywhere betweeen 6 - 10K dollars... and custom Mauser's are all over the place for $1,000 to $2,000 for some of the best of the best... and you can find nice ones for $600 if you look around!

That said, building a custom rifle, especially on an action that came from your family... is one of those 'once in a lifetime' things that you can't go wrong doing if it's what you want to do for you.

My .416 Taylor cost way, way more than I could probably sell it for. But that's not the point. It is a perfect rifle and I have loved it every time I carried it Economics.... NO. Passion, yes!

Never question the idea that building a gun is about economics. It's not. Ever. But especially when it comes to a family piece or a dream, economics have nothing at all to do with it. Follow your dream!

Last, a 1916 DWM action with matching numbers is a pretty nice action to restore. But, again, probably not economical as the 'finished' gun will be restored. Not original. So from that perspective, I would not write that action off as a candidate. Especially since it was your dad's. Though if I were doing another build, I would start with an Argentine Mauser. Probably the nicest action there is for a custom build!

Again... follow your heart, not your checking account on this one!

Cheers,

Sirhr

I would have to respectfully disagree. It depends a lot on who you send off the parts to to get what done and how much you can do yourself. Most any decent gunsmith (with some experience) can re-barrel and true your action. The same goes for what bolt you put on there. Some hefty costs can be how nice of a stock you want. That can range from a hundred for a usable stock to a couple thousand for a blank. Then have it inletted, and extra again for checkering. What kind of finish do you want on the metal? Blued isn't bad. But, if you want it engraved, then that can run a couple grand as well.

Like I've said, if you do the work on what you can and use a good gunsmith, you can keep the cost down around a $grand.

bodhisafa,

As sirhr noted, his cost what it did because he got done what he wanted. It's not about economics now, but what you want. that will change over time as that kind of work gets valued more over time. some moreso than others. Yes, they can run what he said. But, you get a LOT! for that kind of price. Worth a once in a lifetime purchase in ones lifetime who uses firearms regularly, IMO.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

I would have to respectfully disagree. It depends a lot on who you send off the parts to to get what done and how much you can do yourself. Most any decent gunsmith (with some experience) can re-barrel and true your action. The same goes for what bolt you put on there. Some hefty costs can be how nice of a stock you want. That can range from a hundred for a usable stock to a couple thousand for a blank. Then have it inletted, and extra again for checkering. What kind of finish do you want on the metal? Blued isn't bad. But, if you want it engraved, then that can run a couple grand as well.

Like I've said, if you do the work on what you can and use a good gunsmith, you can keep the cost down around a $grand.

bodhisafa,

As sirhr noted, his cost what it did because he got done what he wanted. It's not about economics now, but what you want. that will change over time as that kind of work gets valued more over time. some moreso than others. Yes, they can run what he said. But, you get a LOT! for that kind of price. Worth a once in a lifetime purchase in ones lifetime who uses firearms regularly, IMO.

And good point sand... there is a big difference between building that into something modern or using a chassis or an off the rack Fajen stock. One can easily build ‘something’ for far less.

It’s when I see a rare and interesting action I automatically assume it will be used in a high end build. My bad.

So Sand has a good point in that you can make something from that action for much less... and the action will always be worth something unless really butchered in the process!

So follow your dream! It’s about what you want to build!

Cheers, Sirhr

P.S. I'll post a couple of pix of Mauser's I bought over the past few years because they were too cheap not to....

 

[Sooter76]

Anybody else get a lil sick to their stomach seeing stripped receivers like this anymore? It's not OP's fault and years ago their were so many of these war horses in circulation that stripping them down like this didn't matter. But now... Now it just makes me sad to see.

OP, if it was me I'd start scrounging parts to build her back up to her former glory... But that's just me.

 

[RTH1800]

Anybody else get a lil sick to their stomach seeing stripped receivers like this anymore? It's not OP's fault and years ago their were so many of these war horses in circulation that stripping them down like this didn't matter. But now... Now it just makes me sad to see.

OP, if it was me I'd start scrounging parts to build her back up to her former glory... But that's just me.

I do think the rarer ones should be restored if/when possible. Seen any G33/40's lately?

 

[sandwarrior]

Anybody else get a lil sick to their stomach seeing stripped receivers like this anymore? It's not OP's fault and years ago their were so many of these war horses in circulation that stripping them down like this didn't matter. But now... Now it just makes me sad to see.

OP, if it was me I'd start scrounging parts to build her back up to her former glory... But that's just me.

I know it seems frustrating now, but millions of these, even rare ones, sat in cardboard soap bins not selling when cheaper than cheap made post war guns were selling at the same stores. I'm talking Western Auto, Coast to Coast, Sears and Monkey Wards.

Point is, LOTS of them got taken apart and made into customs. While many were bubba'd too. Yes, this could be a good original, but it never will be. Even though the action all matches, the stock, stock parts and barrel/barrel parts will never match it. The best this could ever be is a repro. Bringing it back to a repro is going to cost as much as making yourself a custom.

What we need to be sad about is that WE ALL were a part of it, and saw it coming, yet did nothing about many of these until it was too late.

 

[bodhisafa]

Any recommendations how to clean this action to get all this old grease off. Or is it better to leave it to a pro.

Side note I spoke to a David Christman (gunsmith) from Louisiana...been told by Shilen barrels he is the person to speak with about Mausers.

 

[sandwarrior]

Any recommendations how to clean this action to get all this old grease off. Or is it better to leave it to a pro.

Side note I spoke to a David Christman (gunsmith) from Louisiana...been told by Shilen barrels he is the person to speak with about Mausers.

There are a number of products that will get the grease off. The difficulty is getting the light rust off and not leaving too many marks. I've used mineral spirits, much quantities of liquid wrench and kroil, break free, kerosene and diesel. Wear gloves and eye pro, and use in a ventilated area. For stubborn spots use very fine steel wool with the solvents. Prepare for a little elbow grease to be spent.

 

[bodhisafa]

Looking to get a scope base Iam between the Warne split scope base and the Farrell industries solid one piece scope base. My concern is it having any moa build into the split scope base option.
How would that hinder performance out at distance? Say inside 1000 yards

 

[sirhrmechanic]

I have nothing but great things to say about Farrell... Top notch products and great customer service. Don't forget USO rings and bases.

Depending on what caliber you are building will help you decide which base you want... as will your scope choice. As will your ammo choices (or handload).

So as with most anything, you have to build it as a system. Know the math on your caliber. Know the external ballistics math on your loads (heavy slow bullet planned? Or fast flat-shooter?) as you will need to know how far your bullet will drop at the maximum ranges you plan on shooting early on.

And it never gets the attention it deserves in discussions... but you have do the math on your scope... what do you have for elevation adjustment in your scope? If it's a vintage Leupold or similar with a small tube... you have very little vertical movement compared to, say, a modern USO with a 35mm tube and a ton of vertical adjustment. So you need to know how many REAL Mil's (or MOA) of vertical travel you have... understanding that the top and bottom limits of travel are not as good as keeping things in the middle of your erector housing so to speak.

Also keep in mind that you want to keep your elevation more or less centered in its travel... which means that at 100 yard or 200 yard zero, you want it biased a bit 'down' in its travel, but not jammed up at the bottom at 100-200 (which also severely limits your windage adjustment!) You want your erector centered at the average ranges you will be shooting. Once you know where your erector is best 'at home' and your external ballistics, and your planned ranges... then you will be able to select the proper down base.

It's harder in 'Vintage" because if you are using a period scope, your options are severely limited. In modern shooting, tier-one scopes have lots of travel and lots of room for vertical and horizontal movement in their erectors without binding up .

But, no, you won't have a problem with a down MOA base in your proposed setup. As long as you run all the numbers before you hit the "buy button" you will be fine with your choices. Remember that everything is a system. A change in one part of it needs to be accounted for in 'other parts' if everything is going to be working optimally.

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Oh and if you want to really understand the parameters of your scope... set yourself up a tracking drill. It doesn't have to be on a rifle, but can be in a vice or on a tripod. Something to hold it firm. Then work the knobs to track total vertical and horizontal movement. Start by centering the reticle (go all the way left and all the way right, then come back exactly half-way) on each knob.

At that point, slip your rings (if that's possible on your scope) and zero them. If not, make a note of position.

Then start tracking up, left, right and down using a target. You will find out how much you limit your windage when your elevation is at the far reaches of its travel.

You can also then figure out where you want to 'center' your elevation so that you have as much 'up' travel as you need for any given range. Because you never 'depress' your scope erector, all travel below the centered point is more or less wasted. BUT remember, that you lose a lot of windage. So if you are dialing in your windage, you may 'run out' of left or right at shorter ranges on gusty days or at some intermediate ranges.

Anyway, this is all done very easily off the rifle and on a bench. Brick walls make great scope testing targets, BTW. Known dimensions are your friend! Or buy a collimator. Or just get a big piece of paper and rule out 1MOA or 1 Mil squares with sharpie... an you have your target. From there, simple trig. But 25 yards is a good distance to use. Your paper won't have to be several feet across as it would be at 100. And everything is just divisible by 4.

Probably this is far better explained in the scopes section.... but Vintage Shooters need to take this stuff into account, too! More so with vintage scopes.

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[sandwarrior]

Well said, sirhr!

One thing I found out this past year, and it really came out as a “who knew”, was that vertical split scopes were the cause of some scope failures. This was a post by @Lowlight. What the specifics are that made them fail, I do not know. I do know I was scratching my head over the dynamics of why properly installed vertical split rings would do this.

That said, after trying vertically split rings I’ll say I don’t like them. Mostly because of a nearly complete inability to swap a scope from one rifle to another without starting from scratch to re-zero it. With solid quality horizontal rings you just note what to move it to, and the offsets downrange.

Another point I would like to make and that is the economics of a repro. This particular version of Mauser can be found for far less than you would pay to rebuild it that way. But, the point the posters made about that is very valid. With the way this facet of the firearms world is going it won’t last forever. If you are wanting a specific type rifle for one reason or another, get it now. Original prices will go up, repro’s will always lag behind. But, they will gain in value too, as “shooters” become less abundant.

 

[bodhisafa]

I’m trying to run a NF ATACR second focal plane scope I have laying around.

 

[Jscb1b]

Don't forget about having the bolt turned down.

 

[Country]

You could buy three new Howa rifles for what it will cost you to rebuild that Mauser into a nice rifle again.
A lot depends on how much work you can do yourself . If the answer is none then don't do it .
get a reputable gunsmith to do a hardness test on the action before you spend any money .

 

[bodhisafa]

Had a thought about this project and would like some added feedback. While at the moment I have a capable gunsmith working on the action it seems there are less and less capable individuals out there whiling to work on this old Mauser. My thought is...what would happen several years down the line when I need say another barrel done for this rifle after it’s been shot out ? If the trend continues there’s going to be less and less gunsmith willing to do the job and don’t want to put money into a rifle now that may eventually be “unworkable”?

 

[sandwarrior]

Had a thought about this project and would like some added feedback. While at the moment I have a capable gunsmith working on the action it seems there are less and less capable individuals out there whiling to work on this old Mauser. My thought is...what would happen several years down the line when I need say another barrel done for this rifle after it’s been shot out ? If the trend continues there’s going to be less and less gunsmith willing to do the job and don’t want to put money into a rifle now that may eventually be “unworkable”?

Barreling a Mauser is a doable task for any gunsmith. Depending on Which type, it's either like a Rem 700 (no extractor cut) or like a Win 70 Pre-64 (extractor cut). They all pretty much run 12 TPI and he must know the difference in small and large ring diameters. All do-able for any gunsmith.

 

[Hetzer]

Do-able vs Willing seems to be the issue with some gunsmiths.

 

[sandwarrior]

Do-able vs Willing seems to be the issue with some gunsmiths.

True, but any decent gunsmith could do this if he read up on them what he thought he might no know. I'm finding it more common for a gunsmith to just refuse the work cuz he can't make a grand on it. If he has to spend some time on it, he thinks he's losing money.

FWIW, all the top gunsmith schools in this country all have Mausers in their curriculum.

 

[Hetzer]

Agreed

 

[bodhisafa]

That’s where I am arriving at this point. I am comfortable with David Christman doing the work now. It seems, as it has been pointed out by the two gentleman above, that there are not many Gsmith’s that are willing to do the work.

Just want to future proof this build, just don’t know if I should just scrap this build.

 

[sandwarrior]

That’s where I am arriving at this point. I am comfortable with David Christman doing the work now. It seems, as it has been pointed out by the two gentleman above, that there are not many Gsmith’s that are willing to do the work.

Just want to future proof this build, just don’t know if I should just scrap this build.

Maybe you could ask him to spin up a second barrel when you do the first one.

Added: I have a lot of Mauser auctioned rifles and I’m not concerned about getting any of them rebarreled.

 

[Hetzer]

A second barrel is always an option. Like Sandwarrior, I'm not too concerned about the ability to get a barrel replaced in the future.
I had one done up over the winter, the smith involved had no problem or hesitation in doing so. More than likely he will be around for quite a while. I'm sure you could get it done somewhere in the future and as such would not prevent me from doing so.

 

[jtv3062]

The economics of the build are questionable... mainly because to make the action into a fine sporter will cost you anywhere betweeen 6 - 10K dollars... and custom Mauser's are all over the place for $1,000 to $2,000 for some of the best of the best... and you can find nice ones for $600 if you look around!

That said, building a custom rifle, especially on an action that came from your family... is one of those 'once in a lifetime' things that you can't go wrong doing if it's what you want to do for you.

My .416 Taylor cost way, way more than I could probably sell it for. But that's not the point. It is a perfect rifle and I have loved it every time I carried it Economics.... NO. Passion, yes!

Never question the idea that building a gun is about economics. It's not. Ever. But especially when it comes to a family piece or a dream, economics have nothing at all to do with it. Follow your dream!

Last, a 1916 DWM action with matching numbers is a pretty nice action to restore. But, again, probably not economical as the 'finished' gun will be restored. Not original. So from that perspective, I would not write that action off as a candidate. Especially since it was your dad's. Though if I were doing another build, I would start with an Argentine Mauser. Probably the nicest action there is for a custom build!

Again... follow your heart, not your checking account on this one!

Cheers,

Sirhr

Do those rifles have serial numbers on all parts? Stock, stock bands, butt plate, hand guard, and other parts.

 

[Country]

Do-able vs Willing seems to be the issue with some gunsmiths.

That's the problem many don't want to work on old actions with questionable heat treatment and the age of the action means that Mauser will not take any responsibility either . If you walk back in with a new late model action of a well known brand they will be happy to do it . Re-barrelling a Mauser 98 with armorers lugs is very easy compared to some others . Try and find a mechanic to work on a 1950 ish car !
However your action has some sentimental value so if you want to fix it all up go for it .

 

[sandwarrior]

That's the problem many don't want to work on old actions with questionable heat treatment and the age of the action means that Mauser will not take any responsibility either . If you walk back in with a new late model action of a well known brand they will be happy to do it . Re-barrelling a Mauser 98 with armorers lugs is very easy compared to some others . Try and find a mechanic to work on a 1950 ish car !
However your action has some sentimental value so if you want to fix it all up go for it .

The vast majority of gunsmiths in this country will work on Mausers. Just like a 1950’s car there are plenty of mechanics around. And if the OP doesn’t think he can find one, he doesn’t have to chamber it in a barrel burner. I’ve had some of my Mausers for over thirty years.

I get tired of the bullshit myths that get spread around how Mausers have questionable heat treatment. They all had better heat treatment QC than 1903’s did. And just because they’re old doesn’t mean they’ve been through a fire.

Yeah, some modern actions can be great. But, the OP has a good action that was handed down in the family. We’re talking about that. Not going out and getting your brand of new rifle.

 

[Dan M]

Do those rifles have serial numbers on all parts? Stock, stock bands, butt plate, hand guard, and other parts.

Yes...every component was numbered, down to the firing pin.

 

[Country]

The vast majority of gunsmiths in this country will work on Mausers. Just like a 1950’s car there are plenty of mechanics around. And if the OP doesn’t think he can find one, he doesn’t have to chamber it in a barrel burner. I’ve had some of my Mausers for over thirty years.

I get tired of the bullshit myths that get spread around how Mausers have questionable heat treatment. They all had better heat treatment QC than 1903’s did. And just because they’re old doesn’t mean they’ve been through a fire.

Yeah, some modern actions can be great. But, the OP has a good action that was handed down in the family. We’re talking about that. Not going out and getting your brand of new rifle.

Questionable does not equate to bad . It just means unknown .

 

[sandwarrior]

Questionable does not equate to bad . It just means unknown .

Actually, they are known. And, that is why so many have been used for so many years.

 

[Country]

please post a link to the heat treatment specs off all mauser 98 actions with each actions serial number displayed .

 

[sandwarrior]

please post a link to the heat treatment specs off all mauser 98 actions with each actions serial number displayed .

There are several books on it. So, no I’m not going to put it all on this thread for you. Again, many many thousands have been sporterized and they are not known for having issues. Any decent gunsmith will know, or who to check with for what, if he thinks they have issues.

If you feel so strongly about Howa actions why don’t you PM the OP and work that angle out with him. He asked about the Mauser action he has. Not the one you want him to buy.

And, if you start a thread about Howas, go to bolt actions. They belong there, not here in Vintage.

 

[bodhisafa]

To update the thread the action has been cleaned and blued. I am not familiar with the blueing process but it seems the action does not operate as smooth as before? Any suggestions?

 

[bodhisafa]

To update the thread the action has been cleaned and blued. I am not familiar with the blueing process but it seems the action does not operate as smooth as before? Any suggestions?

 

[bodhisafa]

Anyone done a 22 creedmoor in a Mauser or Creed variant?

 

[Frank Green]

To update the thread the action has been cleaned and blued. I am not familiar with the blueing process but it seems the action does not operate as smooth as before? Any suggestions?

The bluing and bolt being sticky type thing don’t sweat it. Some oil on the bolt etc...and once you start using it it will smooth out per say. Also keep in mind this isn’t a Sako or AI rifle action either but the action will build a decent rifle.

Bluing is basically a rusting type process. Don’t freak out on that word. I’m getting ready to send a barreled action out to Glen Rock Blue for a actual old rust blue type process. They do hot bluing also. Looks like your action got hot blued.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

 

[sandwarrior]

Anyone done a 22 creedmoor in a Mauser or Creed variant?

Creed anything isn't going to feed well in a Mauser. Unless, you get good at bending or filing feed lip rails. Those are talents unto themselves.

 

[bodhisafa]

Okay, which 22 based cartridge feeds well from a Mauser?

 

[sandwarrior]

.22-250 or if you want perfect, but harsh on barrels, .22-6mm Rem. The .22-243 (Middlestead) works well too. It's also harsh on barrels.

The big problem is the shoulder diameter and taper a cartridge has vs. the taper that's built into the Mauser action. A Creed is .462" at the shoulder. A .243 is .454" That case (.308 based) feeds pretty good from a Mauser action.

So, much of it depends on how much of a wildcat cartridge you want to make. Some forming or a lot of forming. The .22-250 has more taper than a Mauser action is shaped for, but they do seem to work alright in them. The .300 Savage has less taper in the case and would work better, but again, 2-3 steps of forming and turning necks. And yes, the .250-3000 and .300 Savage cases are different.

Load a .22-6mm light and you'll get some barrel life out of it. Load it hot and maybe get 1k.

The other option is to find a gunsmith who understands how to take out, or increase, some taper of the action feed rails so that the cartridges feed from your Mauser action.

I can tell you the Creed cases don't feed well from anything not made to their particular taper. If you want a .22 Creed, start with a rifle already built for a Creed cartridge.

IMO, the barrel life is too short in the .22 Creed, .22-243 and .22-6mm Rem for anything other than a walking varminter where you aren't putting more than twenty rounds downrange in a day. Even the .22-250 has been known to eat barrel life quickly when used as an all day prairie dog rifle. ...Like I've seen them shot hard in one day and toast a barrel.

So, my suggestion is also if you want to go .22 Cal, find a .223 or 6.8 based rifle and get an improved version of the .223/.222 Rem Mag or a .224 Valkyrie. The reduced volume will make changing barrels less common and more cost effective, while still being effective. Save that Mauser action for a larger caliber where you won't eat barrel life up. Anything 6mm on up to 8mm.

 

[bodhisafa]

So what case cartridge feeds perfect that is not 30-06 based?