Gunsmithing Glass bedding screws?

goodgorilla

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 16, 2013
425
1
Lecanto, FL
I understand most of the process of glass bedding, but the only thing I am worried about now are the bedding screws. On almost all the videos I have watched the smith just uses headless screws that are taped over. I am worried that the tape maybe to flexible and may need something a little more robust. I am also worried about the epoxy making it's way into the screw holes even with protection. Has anyone tried these?

Power Custom Bedding Studs Remington 700, Weatherby

Forster Stockmaker's Hand Screws Remington 700, 721, 722, 40X Package of 2

Or do I not need to worry about using the tape+headless screws. Whatever method you use, how big of an issue is dropping the action in the epoxy after removing the plugs to the action screws (brass casings)? I don't understand how epoxy doesn't get into the screw holes after removing the plugs.
 
You want a taped shaft. Be it screw or stud. It goes back to prep work. Before the resin is even opened you gotta know that your parts fit together. Resin WILL creep into the pillar bore between the tape. The tape ensures you can get it back apart. A slip fit stud, even when highly polished and waxed, will be much more resistant to coming back apart. The "squishy" tape will allow for easier tear downs.

I use studs that I've made for this kind of work. Studs offer me advantages because I only have threads where I need them. Threads and epoxy invite big headaches when bedding. It creates a mechanical locking incentive.

If your pillar holes are on location and your stock inlet is correct then it should literally just smoosh into place when you lay it all up.

good luck

c.
 
Another option for rem 700, win 70, weatherby etc is to use fine thread .25" screws from the hardware store wrapped in electrical tap below the first six threads or so and then coated in release agent like kiwi neutral shoe polish