I got a chance to shoot a RDS today. I didn’t think I would like it but I‘m thinking of giving it a go. I’m going to pick up a glock 19x and have the slide cut out for a Trijicon RMR. Where have you sent yours and had good results?
Sidearms & Scatterguns Glock Slide Milling (Looking for recommendations)
- Thread starter USMC22
- Start date
The Glock MOS system sucks. So does S&W's CORE.
CZ is the only company that has figured out how to engineer an optics plate system that isolates all the shear forces from the screws.
It might be faster and easier to buy a milled slide but it's not cheaper even if you sell your OEM upper.
I would buy another slide, my slide came from AIM Surplus. My original slide stayed original.
That slide and Trijicon RMR was sold off several months later, my original slide is back in place. I do regret letting the RMR go because something came along and were it still in my possession I would have a use for it.
That's just the way it goes
That slide and Trijicon RMR was sold off several months later, my original slide is back in place. I do regret letting the RMR go because something came along and were it still in my possession I would have a use for it.
That's just the way it goes
Not from anyone that I've used.
I would avoid Lone Wolf. The pictures of their machine work on their website show that they don't bother leaving recoil bosses for the optic to mate up with. That means the screws take enormous G forces in shear and likely won't last long.
I won't send my slides there and I won't buy an RMRc both for the same reason
How do you how tight is tight enough? Do you work for Trijicon/Leupold/Vortex in an engineering capacity?
Why is it that I read monster threads in pistol-forum about people having screws come loose and in some cases shearing straight off their optics, yet in nearly 35K rounds combined through three optics equipped pistols I've never had that happen?
Maybe it's because I make sure that:
- The mounting interface has recoil bosses for both the optic and (if installed) the adapter plate
- There are no aluminum threads anywhere
- Buy only quality screws
- Use proper thread locker (not that vibra tite shit)
- Make sure that I have more than enough thread engagement
- I really tighten the screws and ignore all the internet bullshit about torque
I don't care if anyone follows my standards and my process but I sure as hell aren't changing them.
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Bingo. I had to get little screws made locally (Australia) to supply, as the chicom-cheese-grade were more than junk. Now I have a lifetime supply of 6G-48 with T15 heads, hardened to 8.8 grade. I have literal thousands of 5 and 8mm long. All Aussie made. (If any Aussie needs any, hit me up. )
Pro tip, the amount of thread engagement, meaning how far it screws into the threaded hold should be equal to, or greater than the diameter of the thread. If it's a M6 bolt, which is 6mm diameter, you want at least 6mm of engagement. A 1/8" screw should have 1/8th engagement. I'll let @308pirate refine it about core diameter vs shear strength etc.
@USMC22
Mounted my RMR yesterday on my 320 AXG.
www.snipershide.com
B&H was amazing in getting that thing shipped to me in approximately 20 hours from moment of order.....far as I know they are not even Evil Masterminds seeking world domination while flying around in Penis rocket ships.
My eyes without prescription lenses kind of have my dot looking like a busted anus but it will be totally useable.
Ill zero it tomorrow. I want those Suarez co witness sights only because this may be an occasional carry gun.....if only intended for range use they would only get in the way.
Factory site has been useful in that its helping me to find the dot as I was playing with my pistol yesterday.....if I see the front site I need to dip the muzzle of the gun and the dot will come into view in the window. Feels odd, like I would be shooting low but with the top of my rear site pretty much even with the back of the RMR and the dot in view as the top of the front sight post "sunsets" at the bottom of the window, the dot is right there in my aiming zone.
Mounted my RMR yesterday on my 320 AXG.
Sidearms & Scatterguns - RDS Pistol people, why dont you have a seat right over here......
Im Bi-curious..........thinking of adding a red dot sight to my iron sight inventory. Just bought this....I want to set it up for training, occasional CC use. RDS ready and I understand it will have the ability to mount Sig, Leupold and Trijicon products. Ive considered Sigs offerings...
www.snipershide.com
B&H was amazing in getting that thing shipped to me in approximately 20 hours from moment of order.....far as I know they are not even Evil Masterminds seeking world domination while flying around in Penis rocket ships.
My eyes without prescription lenses kind of have my dot looking like a busted anus but it will be totally useable.
Ill zero it tomorrow. I want those Suarez co witness sights only because this may be an occasional carry gun.....if only intended for range use they would only get in the way.
Factory site has been useful in that its helping me to find the dot as I was playing with my pistol yesterday.....if I see the front site I need to dip the muzzle of the gun and the dot will come into view in the window. Feels odd, like I would be shooting low but with the top of my rear site pretty much even with the back of the RMR and the dot in view as the top of the front sight post "sunsets" at the bottom of the window, the dot is right there in my aiming zone.
Try to get rid of the front sight crutch as quickly as you can. One of the keys to speed with pistol-mounted reflex optics it to draw while focusing on the target and have the dot automatically show up where you look. Same exact thing when transitioning between targets.@USMC22
Mounted my RMR yesterday on my 320 AXG.
Sidearms & Scatterguns - RDS Pistol people, why dont you have a seat right over here......
Im Bi-curious..........thinking of adding a red dot sight to my iron sight inventory. Just bought this....I want to set it up for training, occasional CC use. RDS ready and I understand it will have the ability to mount Sig, Leupold and Trijicon products. Ive considered Sigs offerings...
B&H was amazing in getting that thing shipped to me in approximately 20 hours from moment of order.....far as I know they are not even Evil Masterminds seeking world domination while flying around in Penis rocket ships.
My eyes without prescription lenses kind of have my dot looking like a busted anus but it will be totally useable.
Ill zero it tomorrow. I want those Suarez co witness sights only because this may be an occasional carry gun.....if only intended for range use they would only get in the way.
Factory site has been useful in that its helping me to find the dot as I was playing with my pistol yesterday.....if I see the front site I need to dip the muzzle of the gun and the dot will come into view in the window. Feels odd, like I would be shooting low but with the top of my rear site pretty much even with the back of the RMR and the dot in view as the top of the front sight post "sunsets" at the bottom of the window, the dot is right there in my aiming zone.
We always want to screw to break before we pull threads from the female part (this follows the rule of thumb that the cheapest part is the part we want to fail first). I usually try for 1.5x engagement as a function of screw diameter, but to determine this correctly requires some math based upon the material characteristics of both mating components, the thread pitch and major diameter, and the minor diameter of the screw/bolt. If you run the numbers on a 6-48, it only takes ~0.100" of actual thread engagement if both the screw and the mating component are the same material. Keeping in mind the thread lead-in of both parts, one gets pretty close to the 1x-diameter rule of thumb. If one assumes that the screw is substantially harder than the mating component, then we need much more thread engagement to ensure that the screw fails first.
A classic undergrad mechanical engineering demonstration is to show that it's possible to break a steel screw using a plastic nut - just gotta have enough thread engagement.
For fasteners that are frequently removed, one also needs to be aware of thread distortion. Not a big deal when running a small screw into properly-formed Class 2/3 threads in a piece of 4140, but if we start doing the same into something like a piece of whatever-grade stainless formed using a powdered-metal process, then we might have a potential for thread distortion (particularly if someone habitually ham-fists the screws). More threads = less potential for distortion, and thus more consistent preload vs. torque and less likelihood for an oh-shit moment.
FYI, I'm sure you know all this; the above is more for the non-engineers in the crowd.
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