Looking for a Glock specialist in the OK City (OKC) area ?
Anyone have any recommendations.
Trigger work mostly, and sights.
Anyone have any recommendations.
Trigger work mostly, and sights.
Gunsmithing Glock specialist in the OKC area
- Thread starter Wolf22
- Start date
Re: Glock specialist in the OKC area
The Glocks aren't exactly the most complicated pistol on the market. What kinda trigger job were you looking to have done? If you don't get the answers you were looking for here Glocktalk.com is a pretty good resource.
The Glocks aren't exactly the most complicated pistol on the market. What kinda trigger job were you looking to have done? If you don't get the answers you were looking for here Glocktalk.com is a pretty good resource.
Re: Glock specialist in the OKC area
IF you are semi-mechanically inclined, get a 3.5 Ghost "Ultimate" connector. Will make a big improvement and easy to install, they have instructions on their site for the install.
.
IF you are semi-mechanically inclined, get a 3.5 Ghost "Ultimate" connector. Will make a big improvement and easy to install, they have instructions on their site for the install.
.
Re: Glock specialist in the OKC area
Look up .25 cent trigger job for the DIYer, a 3.5 disconnector and a Comp Spring Kit has gotten two of my Glocks trigger pull in the 2.75 lb range, as for sites a Rear Site tool will is a great easy way to RR the rear sight, the front site has screw to secure it to the front, you might to modify a socket by removing the bevel on it, the front site screw is pretty thin and removing the bevel helps, BrianEnos forums is a great place to research pistol mods and what not.
Look up .25 cent trigger job for the DIYer, a 3.5 disconnector and a Comp Spring Kit has gotten two of my Glocks trigger pull in the 2.75 lb range, as for sites a Rear Site tool will is a great easy way to RR the rear sight, the front site has screw to secure it to the front, you might to modify a socket by removing the bevel on it, the front site screw is pretty thin and removing the bevel helps, BrianEnos forums is a great place to research pistol mods and what not.
Re: Glock specialist in the OKC area
I put tritium sights on my Glocks myself.
My triggers are stock. I can - and have, for money - hit a 12"X21" plate at 100 yards with the stock trigger on a Glock 19.
I recommend leaving the triggers alone, and getting some training.
I put tritium sights on my Glocks myself.
My triggers are stock. I can - and have, for money - hit a 12"X21" plate at 100 yards with the stock trigger on a Glock 19.
I recommend leaving the triggers alone, and getting some training.
Re: Glock specialist in the OKC area
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lindy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I recommend leaving the triggers alone, and getting some training.
</div></div>
+1....
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lindy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I recommend leaving the triggers alone, and getting some training.
</div></div>
+1....
Re: Glock specialist in the OKC area
Oyeller is a hell of a pistol smith he will get you taken care of.
Dustin
Oyeller is a hell of a pistol smith he will get you taken care of.
Dustin
Re: Glock specialist in the OKC area
Last Glock armorers course I attended we got to do some swapping around of trigger parts. A NY trigger and a light connector make for a decidedly un-Glock like trigger (very nice) with about a 4.5 lb pull. Of course, being that they are department guns, we couldn't do the same with ours.
If I owned one (no sense buying one), that would be how I did my trigger.
However, like Lindy said, once you get used to the stock trigger, hitting plates at 100 yards is not unusual. They are pretty accurate pistols right out of the box.
Last Glock armorers course I attended we got to do some swapping around of trigger parts. A NY trigger and a light connector make for a decidedly un-Glock like trigger (very nice) with about a 4.5 lb pull. Of course, being that they are department guns, we couldn't do the same with ours.
If I owned one (no sense buying one), that would be how I did my trigger.
However, like Lindy said, once you get used to the stock trigger, hitting plates at 100 yards is not unusual. They are pretty accurate pistols right out of the box.
Re: Glock specialist in the OKC area
My G22 had a 7 lb connector in it when I got it. The first thing I did was swap it out for a 5 lb. Then a few months later i swapped that out for a 3.5 lb connector just to see how it felt. After trying them all, I felt that the 5 lb connector was the best all around choice, considering if I actually had to use it in a defense situation, I would rather have a small ammount of resistance to compensate for a nervous trigger finger.
One piece I HIGHLY reccomend is a custom trigger housing with adjustable pre- and over- travel, from Charlie Vanek at www.vanekcustom.com . That is without a doubt one of the best investments I made for my Glock and was only $35.
I would also reccomend polishing all of the contact points within the trigger group, but be sure to avoid rounding off any edges. The idea is just to smooth the surfaces, not seriously alter them.
After reading LOTS of threads on glock trigger work and modificatioins, I delved a bit deeper into the rabbit hole, and ordered a few spare trigger bar assemblies and an extra trigger housing. Following alot of the suggestions of "Joe D" (google him... he's extremely knowledgable on the subject), I separated the plastic trigger shoe from the bar by drilling out the sealed side of the pin and tapping the pin through. I then relocated the hole in the trigger bar which the pin slid through, up the leg of the bar a bit(.172 inches center to center if my memory serves me), shortened the end of that leg right up to the edge of the old hole so it would fit back inside the trigger shoe, and relocated the hole in the trigger shoe accordingly so it lined up with the new hole. I also had to grind a tiny ammount off the back of the trigger safety so the trigger could move freely, but not so much that the trigger safety was compromised. This was all done to alter the fulcrum point of the trigger, which in turn requires less force to release the tension which exists between the ramp at the rear of the bar and the base of the firing pin. Basiclly, if you think about a see-saw, its the equivalent of moving the pivot point from the middle, further away from you, which would enable you to lift a heavier object with the same or less force. In this case, the pressure exerted by the firing pin spring on the ramp does not change, so the result is a lighter trigger pull. The last thing I did was put the bar in a vice, heated up the curve in the piece that comes down from the crucifix in the rear of the bar, to which the spring attaches. After heating just to the point where it has a dull glow, I used a flathead screwdriver inserted between the vice and the spring attachment bar, to pry it to an angle just shy of 90 degrees, to put more tension on the trigger spring.
All in all, I ended up ruining two of the extra trigger bars, but the third turned out to be a gem. I don't have a trigger pull gauge to measure it, but it is verrrrrrry smooth and light and all 3 safetys still function properly. It is a STRICTLY RANGE trigger though, that I only swap on occasion. I still prefer my 5 lb connector and Vanek trigger housing set up, just because I can't really see the need to have such a light trigger pull. However, if you are DIY obsessed like me, it was a cheap, and fun project. Order plenty of extras though, because you're bound to mess a few up. And I would reccomend leaving the trigger group thats currently in the gun alone so you'll always have a perfectly functioning set of parts to put back in the gun after you've messed up all your extra pieces.
My G22 had a 7 lb connector in it when I got it. The first thing I did was swap it out for a 5 lb. Then a few months later i swapped that out for a 3.5 lb connector just to see how it felt. After trying them all, I felt that the 5 lb connector was the best all around choice, considering if I actually had to use it in a defense situation, I would rather have a small ammount of resistance to compensate for a nervous trigger finger.
One piece I HIGHLY reccomend is a custom trigger housing with adjustable pre- and over- travel, from Charlie Vanek at www.vanekcustom.com . That is without a doubt one of the best investments I made for my Glock and was only $35.
I would also reccomend polishing all of the contact points within the trigger group, but be sure to avoid rounding off any edges. The idea is just to smooth the surfaces, not seriously alter them.
After reading LOTS of threads on glock trigger work and modificatioins, I delved a bit deeper into the rabbit hole, and ordered a few spare trigger bar assemblies and an extra trigger housing. Following alot of the suggestions of "Joe D" (google him... he's extremely knowledgable on the subject), I separated the plastic trigger shoe from the bar by drilling out the sealed side of the pin and tapping the pin through. I then relocated the hole in the trigger bar which the pin slid through, up the leg of the bar a bit(.172 inches center to center if my memory serves me), shortened the end of that leg right up to the edge of the old hole so it would fit back inside the trigger shoe, and relocated the hole in the trigger shoe accordingly so it lined up with the new hole. I also had to grind a tiny ammount off the back of the trigger safety so the trigger could move freely, but not so much that the trigger safety was compromised. This was all done to alter the fulcrum point of the trigger, which in turn requires less force to release the tension which exists between the ramp at the rear of the bar and the base of the firing pin. Basiclly, if you think about a see-saw, its the equivalent of moving the pivot point from the middle, further away from you, which would enable you to lift a heavier object with the same or less force. In this case, the pressure exerted by the firing pin spring on the ramp does not change, so the result is a lighter trigger pull. The last thing I did was put the bar in a vice, heated up the curve in the piece that comes down from the crucifix in the rear of the bar, to which the spring attaches. After heating just to the point where it has a dull glow, I used a flathead screwdriver inserted between the vice and the spring attachment bar, to pry it to an angle just shy of 90 degrees, to put more tension on the trigger spring.
All in all, I ended up ruining two of the extra trigger bars, but the third turned out to be a gem. I don't have a trigger pull gauge to measure it, but it is verrrrrrry smooth and light and all 3 safetys still function properly. It is a STRICTLY RANGE trigger though, that I only swap on occasion. I still prefer my 5 lb connector and Vanek trigger housing set up, just because I can't really see the need to have such a light trigger pull. However, if you are DIY obsessed like me, it was a cheap, and fun project. Order plenty of extras though, because you're bound to mess a few up. And I would reccomend leaving the trigger group thats currently in the gun alone so you'll always have a perfectly functioning set of parts to put back in the gun after you've messed up all your extra pieces.
Re: Glock specialist in the OKC area
Fell off the planet for a few days.
Thanks for the comments - I agree with the comments above and appreciate your ideas/guidance
The trigger need is for a co-worker who feels his trigger is terrible, and I don't want the liability, so I was looking for places to send him. Definitely will ponder the parts above for tinkering with my own.....
Fell off the planet for a few days.
Thanks for the comments - I agree with the comments above and appreciate your ideas/guidance
The trigger need is for a co-worker who feels his trigger is terrible, and I don't want the liability, so I was looking for places to send him. Definitely will ponder the parts above for tinkering with my own.....
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