GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

D

Dennis_in_VA

Sergeant
Commercial Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 24, 2007
554
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Roanoke, Virginia
www.adamscustomrifles.com
#1
I know that I am not the only one that has ran into this exact situation.

I have a bad axle seal on my '95 Silverado, so I set out to fix the problem.

I jacked the truck up, drained the gear oil, yadda yadda yadda...

I removed the little bolt from the retaining pin and normally in a perfect world the pin should just slide right out without much effort.

Well as my luck would have it, the damn thing wont budge. I took a big punch and a hammer to it, giving it judicious taps just in case it let go and wedged the diff in place.

Does anybody have a remedy for this short of dropping the whole rear end and getting a new one?
 
#4
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

Open or Limited slip?

For the most part like you said it should just fall out, is it turned enough to move when you hit it? Another thing make sure and try to push the axles a lil to relieve some pressure from the pin.
 
#5
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

Limited Slip.

The pin does not rotate. It does not move when it is smacked with a ball peen hammer.

I pulled the axles outward, thinking that maybe there might be a grove worn in the retaining pin and the end of the axle was keeping the pin from moving.

But as hard as I was hitting the pin (from both ends of the pin) you would think that it would move at least a little. It's almost as though it was being held in place by another bolt or pin.

I am totally baffled.

So as of right now, my only choice is to drop the rear end and put a different one under the truck.
 
#6
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

Clutch type or the ratcheting type?

If its clutch type the s spring could be slightly twisted, might wanna move it a lil either way and see if that helps.
 
#7
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

Look at the end of the small bolt that you removed. Make sure the end of it did not break off and stay in the carrier holding the spider gear pin in place. Generally when they break off it is at the base of the threads but sometimes the tip will come off.
 
#9
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: maccrazy2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Look at the end of the small bolt that you removed. Make sure the end of it did not break off and stay in the carrier holding the spider gear pin in place. Generally when they break off it is at the base of the threads but sometimes the tip will come off.</div></div>
This happens all the time. As long as all the threads came out you can often times use a magnet to pull the rest of the pin out. You can also get some compressed air and blow it into the hole and sometimes it will kinda shoot out. You have to have a knack for it by giving it real good very short (1/4 second) blasts, kind of like blowing metal chips out of a hole. Eye protection is a must.
Forgot to ask, does the cross pin move at all? It should be able to spin a VERY small amount but still be loose. If it is super tight than someone must have been one-legging it and siezed the one of both of the spiders on the shaft. If that is the case your only way to go is a cutting wheel to get the "C" clips out to remove the center section and it will be new case time.
 
#11
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

Forgot to add. The 95's depending on 2 or 4 wheel drive is the 8 1/2, 9 1/2, 10 1/2, and 11 1/2 diffs for 2X and the 4X4's don't have the 11 1/2. the two larger are full floating so those are not it. If you can make a copy of the RPO code I can tell you what diff you have in it and what the gear ratio is for replacement parts.
If you are doing back yard repair and the cross pin is really stuck you will be better off junk yarding a new diff. I can change those out with two jackstands, a floor jack and some brake fluid in about 20 minutes by myself and not even take the tires off.
smile.gif
 
#12
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

My 10 bolt has been running just fine for 135k miles, thanks.

OP -- take a look at the photo -- it's not mine, just the first one I found on the interweb.

gm-14056196.jpg


The threads should be at the top, near the bolt head. Then the bolt necks down to a reduced diameter to go through the cross pin and into the left side of the carrier as you view it from the rear. If the reduced diameter is not there, then it broke off inside the hole. Sometimes a magnet works, sometimes not.

I've heard of folks using an air hammer to beat on the cross shaft to break the rest of the pin into pieces. Then you can keep on keepin' on.
 
#13
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

THAT'S the problem right there!

The bolt, did not have that non-threaded section on it when I removed it.

I will try using a small magnet on it.

Thanks for the picture.

And thanks to all of you who have posted up on this subject.

I knew I could count on my neighbors for support.

BTW, can I purchase this bolt by itself?
 
#16
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

Most dealerships will have them in stock or can do a "locate" on one and have it within a few hours.
When you try using the magnet make sure to move the cross pin around a little as gravity will want to pinch the bolt
 
#18
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

In general they can be fished out with a magenet. If part of a thread is left they can sometimes be backed out with a pick by making counterclockwise circles on the end to unthread it. If that fails the tool trucks sell a kit for removing them. They have a long flexible drill bit and an easy out for removing them.
Just an FYI. In the past when I used to see alot more trucks in the shops I worked in. I used to see alot of these where people rounded off the head of the bolt using a cheap 12 point wrench. I found using a cheap 7mm box end wrench tapped onto the bolt head with a hammer, then welding the wrench to the bolt with a mig welder would break it loose mostly from the heat. Then use a cutoff wheel and cut the wrench away. Use some small channel locks to spin out the bolt all the way.
I have only had to do this a couple times but it has worked like a charm every time. I think the wrench from craftsman was like $2
In the case of the OP's vehicle this would not help but, for others in the future if you use this trick you owe me a beer
 
#21
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slowkota</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I found your problem... Its a 10 bolt! lol


Atleast its not this...
IMG00099-20100924-1301.jpg

IMG00101-20100924-1304.jpg
</div></div>
Spider walked right out of that case. Good news is I know a guy on the hide that needs a cross pin bolt and that one still looks good.
smile.gif
 
#22
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

If your going to upgrade skip the 12 bolt. It's just a touch better than the 10 bolt. 14 bolt and Dana 60 tears can be found for cheap. Like 150.00. Also there is a 6 lug 14 bolt
 
#23
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

Before we mention 12 bolt again. This is an 95 with ABS (most likely). You will want to go with the stock diff and stock ratio or you will really "F" with ABS control and of course speedo if it is a 2 wheel drive. Of course if it is a 4 wheel drive it will take a significant amount of $$ to switch out matching front and rear gearing. The stock diff in this is not the old school 10 bolt you would have seen in 70's camaro's etc. This should be either 8 1/2 or a 9 1/2.
 
#24
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Mechanic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Spider walked right out of that case. Good news is I know a guy on the hide that needs a cross pin bolt and that one still looks good.
smile.gif
</div></div>

Lol!!!
Just sold the truck 2 weeks ago... Otherwise I would've snatched it out!

But that was my stock 7.5" 10 bolt with upgraded 3.73's in my '84 S-10...

Didn't like the 500+ TQ I guess! lol

Would an Explorer 8.8 rear-end work? Like from a '98? ABS, disc brakes, 3.73 posi...
I know an 8.8 was 1.5" longer on each side (3" total longer than my s10), seems like it'd fit on an older silverado
confused.gif
 
#25
Re: GM 10 Bolt Woes.....

The S-10 and F-body 10 bolt rears used a 7.5" ring gear....pickups use an 8.5" or on the 99+ new body style, an 8.625" ring gear.

For swapping out an entire axle...I think that's a bit of overkill. I would just fix what's wrong, seeing as how it's just a leaky axle seal. Put it all back together with the recommended fluid and keep rocking it until it breaks really bad.
 
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