Gunsmithing Going cheap on a 700 truing

MosesTheTank

MosesTheTank

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Minuteman
Jan 28, 2011
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#1
It is not in my nature to go cheap on gun stuff, but I wanted to run something past you guys. I have a 700 AAC-SD that now has 200 rounds through it. All 200 rounds were either premium factory or hand loads. The gun can barely make 1MOA, usually a lot worse. It is in a Manners stock and bedded with a great trigger so I know none of that is causing the accuracy issue. My inclination is to have the action trued and have a good barrel screwed on. However, it seems I had heard of someone truing an action and then having the barrel set back. Of course I would still have the Remington barrel. Any feedback on this? Not sure if I would really save much money anyways.
 
#5
I used Southwest Ammunition 175 SMKs, Copper Creek 175 SMKs, Lapua 155 Scenar, Lapua 185 HPBT, and MagTech 147, which were the worst by far. The best have been the Copper Creek 175s, but the best they do is 5 shot 1MOA. Handloads were 175 SMKs with about the same results.
 
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#10
Keep in mind that when your action threads are recut in the truing proccess, you will not be able to reuse your factory barrel. There are accurizing services offered by some smiths that will improve your rifles performance. However these are not completely truing your action. Beware of what you are actually getting so that you won't be disappointed later.
 
#12
There could be so many problems with that rifle rough factory barrel bell mouth crown crooked chamber tight loose spots in the bore action needs trued bolt needs sleeved action needs bedded trigger issues and the list goes on. Get your action done right and make sure it is single point cut because I was building a rifle for a guy and he had another gunsmith send me an action that he said was blue printed by himself. Well I got it and it was not blue printed just tapped. Get a good barrel do it once and be happy.
 
#14
It has a badger rail and NF scope. All work done to the rifle (incl. bedding and trigger) was performed by a gunsmith who is held in very high regard here on the hide. There nothing left besides the action and barrel.
 
#15
you can do a setback but it will only be as good as the barrel you have.

What is the intent of the rifle? If it's a hunting rig, the setback isn't a bad idea nor would it be a bad idea if this is just for plinking steel. But if you're looking for a precision shooter that you can shoot all day and still retain the precision you're after, get a good barrel.

check out what Chad Dixon at longrifles inc. is offering...you'll be extremely happy with the results. From the time I sent my rifle out to when it was in my hands was under 3 weeks. The only problem I have, I that I don't have the money for another rifle for my wife...if I don't come up with the cash soon, I'm afraid she'll take this one.
 
#16
I had a similar issue with my remington a couple of months ago. I had it bedded, recrowned, trigger, two scopes and two stocks and it would not shoot. After all the money I spent chasing a cheap fix in parts and shipping back and forth I am kicking myself. I should have just built a custom rifle from the beginning and been better off. I am actually close in cost now to a lower end custom. That includes the purchase price of the rifle. It is a tough choice since once you start throwing money at it that becomes your reason to keep throwing money at it. You invest and want a working rifle.

I ended up buying a lilja barrel and had the gunsmith true the action and mount the barrel. Talking to the smith he indicated everything seemed within reasonable tolerances but the cumulative effect must have been a "perfect storm" of misalignment. I am really happy with the rifle now.

Sit down and think it out of what you want from your rifle, how you will use it, and how much money, time and trips to the range you could spend with each consecutive attempt to fix the issue. It maybe a worthwhile purchase to go the custom route. I found that out after spending a lot of hard earned cash. Lowlight just recommended a smal shop in another thread with quick turn around times that may be able to help you.

Good luck.
 
#17
We do a lot of this type of work and sometimes the chamber is just too far off center to make it work. Bad part is you don't really know till you get everything in the lathe and spinning. I would be happy to work with you on this project or at least walk you through some things that might help.
 
#19
After all the good feedback from you guys I was about to send the rifle to my (very capable) friends at Accurate Ordnance. But, my dad took off with the rifle, as he sometimes (often) does when browsing my man cave, and after a little range time he commented on the dismal accuracy. At his pushing and my dime, and I can't deny my dad, the rifle is now with Short Action Customs where it will get the full monty. Besides my dad's urging and advice from the Hide, the reason it's getting a complete truing and a Bartlein is because Mark pointed out that if the bore is not in alignment with the center of the barrel, the reamer will follow the original channel. So while I might have a decently fit barrel and a nice tight chamber, it won't all be true, and I'll still have a Remington barrel. Mark's reputation is certainly solid enough that I will follow whatever his suggestion is. I'll post an update/review when I get it back. Thanks to all of the posters.
 
#22
a lot of people have had trouble with the 700 AAC-SD, myself included. I sent it off to have it bedded into an H&S and had the action trued which dropped it just below 1" with 175smk. even after I trued it I tried some 165 and 168 ballistic tips and it spread back to 1.36" and 1.57" My buddy just told me that his was not accurate until he started shooting 180gr and above. since you are getting a new barrel you should have no issues now, but for anybody else looking to fix the problem try feeding that fast barrel the heavier bullets it was meant for! I plan to start loading some 180 and 200gr accubonds to test through it and making it a mid range thumper. at $600 for the gun, $250 for the stock, and $150 to accurize id say its still accurate enough for the price.
never thought about re-crowning it since I had a brake on it but I will now also spin my 11 degree tool in it and check that too.
 
#23
coWSMasher said:
Would have been a lot cheaper to buy a savage from the get go. just my $.02
Click to expand...

I think the most cost effective way to go would have been to buy a Stiller and build the rifle around that. The only thing left original on this AAC-SD is the action. I had to find out piecemeal that each component was far less than satisfactory. In another thread someone just posted pics of their Remmy recoil lug, and it's a complete mess. I may have just bought a bad one, but it was really, really bad. I ran plenty of ammo through it and only the Lapua 185 HPBT could approach 1MOA, and that was after putting a Manners T3 and bedding it. A Savage may have given me something better out of the box, but I have no doubt that I will have a very good shooting, and highly personalized, rifle some 6 weeks down the road. I won't make this mistake again. An expensive lesson no doubt. +1 to the poster who suggested to just have it done right and not chase accuracy one fix at a time.
 
#25
Based on what you have said....it sounds like a problem with one end or another of your barrel. I would have the barrel recrowned locally by a reputable smith. It should not cost much and I wouldn't do anything fancy. If that doesn't fix the problem the problem is either on the barrel itself or the chamber/throat area of the barrel. By the time you pull the barrel and have it set back and rechambered you may as well have a new barrel cut and fitted. By the time you set back the barrel you are in deeper than the factory barrel is worth.
 
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