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Gunsmithing Gordy Gritters

Re: Gordy Gritters

i have watched it and it makes a lot of sense to me. i have not tried his exact indicating method yet but i think i will in the near future.

if you have not done any precision rifle barrel work, i would highly recommend watching that video. even if you don't use his exact method(s), he does a very good job of explaining why he does it the way he does.

nothing to do with his methods but one thing i did notice though, he is selling a grizzly lathe on it's special tailstock adjustment. at the same time, he is using an adjustable offset adapter to allow the tailstock to be truly centered. that leads me to believe that there was some issue with the lathe setup.
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

I too believe the video makes sense the way he dials in a barrel for chambering.The man does build bench rest guns and is putting his reputation on the line by demonstrating his way. There are different procedures for accuratly chambering a rifle barrel. There are also a few videos on the subject that are complete junk. Steve Ackers also has a video that is older and a little difficult to see every thing due to the camara angles. However if you understand what he's doing by listening closely, you should do fine. Dave at PTG sells all the tools for this process and gives a very good detailed discription of how to if you speak with him on the phone. If your lathes head stock is short enough to have a barrel stick out of both ends while chucked in the four jaw, then you might be able to make a four bolt spider for the other end if you want to do it like Gordy. If not then you will need to chamber using the steady rest. Good luck with your project.
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

I have it. He barrels a coned breach action (don't remember which one) for the owner of Grizzly on the owner's lathe in the owner's shop (which is very nice). He shows how he indicates, times, and chambers. He makes it look easy.
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I am just trying to get as much "good" info as possible before I start my project. My lathe is small enought (13x40) to use the headstock instead of a steady rest.

.300sniper: I followed your links and learned a lot. Much appreciated. There isn't a whole bunch of material out there and it's nice to see a "regular guy" do the work.

Thanks again guys,
Jason
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: gamma</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey man hold on there!! who ever said .300sniper was a regular guy. </div></div>
He is irregular....like me. We have shared a few viewpoints that others find disturbing, lol.
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

I just called Gordy and went to his shop and had him show me firsthand how to turn a barrel. He gives classes on the weekend working on his lathes--he taught me how to slug the barrel, properly chamber a match barrel and make custom reloading dies. My wife and daughter were kinda bored in Pella while I was in class over the weekend we went, though.....I learned that running a lathe is NOT as easy as it looks---
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

There are many ways to chamber a barrel and good smith's get the same results. We've gone from small Southbend lathes and threading between centers, chambering in a steady rest to setting up barrels through the headstock with a 4 screw spider on each side. Gordy is a dear friend of mine and I respect his opinion and the results he gets but where we disagree is giving up control of the muzzle. I use a long stem indicator and indicate in the throat area and dial in the bore on the muzzle then go to work. I like having the muzzle and hopfully the point of impact close to the centerline of the action. As they say some people drive Chevy's, some drive Fords.
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: gamma</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey man hold on there!! who ever said .300sniper was a regular guy. </div></div>

i'm just a regular guy who quit spending money on massive amounts of beer and started spending it on tools.
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oneeyedmac</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You get a better ROI on the tools. You can only rent beer.
</div></div>

this is true. and the tools haven't landed me in county yet
laugh.gif
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

I watched the video, seemed to be good stuff to me. Not sure if it is any easier or harder to use the 'Grizzly rods' over the range rods, but cost wise it makes sense. I am going to give it a try. The Action was from BAT, but seemed like it was straight forward enough to apply to any action. Was worth the watch for me...

Dave
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

I've got to spend a fair amount of time wih Gordy. He is great guy and an accuracy nut. Watching him work is awsome and I have learned alot from from him. I think he has a good point on how he dials in a barrel for chambering. It just makes sense.

I filmed his last three video's at his shop (not the Grizzly video). First one is out, next two should be on the market this spring. He shares alot of trade secrets.

Here is my spider I made for my Southbend to use his technique.

IMG_6845.jpg


JamieD
Wolf Precision
All Hogs Go to Heaven
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

i've never paid much attention to how gordy does what he does, but he is a genuinely nice guy and builds a great rifle. being so close, i should stop by his new place and check him out. he moved not long ago from a home based shop into one in a neighboring town.

while i think there is more than one way to skin a cat, his apparently works pretty well.

i'll have to watch his video and soak it up.
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

When i moved into my new shop i needed a larger capacity lathe so i could work on the big dia barrels. I got the same Lathe that Gordy uses in the video. I have tried pretty much all the methods as i have went from the tiny southbend to a bigger Enco and now the big gunsmith lathe. On most barrels that are pretty straight it dont seem to make much difference in the set up, but the occasional jump rope can be a problem doing the steady rest or just in the head stock. The "Grizzly Method" will eliminate any of the reamer wobble when you have the barrel that has a little whoppie in it. It takes a bit longer to set up with the grizz method but if your lathe is capable of doing it just makes sense. Those grizzly rods come in handy when crowning and setting up for a muzzle brake as well.

Dave
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

I've been using Gordy's method on my SPRs for about a year now and like it. The only trick is making sure you spend some time indexing the up side of the muzzle. It's really critical to get that aligned with 12 O'Clock of the receiver. I've been using a pilot in the muzzle end and measuring with a 1/10000's indicator.

It does add some up MOA, which is nice for the 5.56.

Kevin Johnson
Johnson Tactical Rifles, LLC
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Tooley</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There are many ways to chamber a barrel and good smith's get the same results. We've gone from small Southbend lathes and threading between centers, chambering in a steady rest to setting up barrels through the headstock with a 4 screw spider on each side. Gordy is a dear friend of mine and I respect his opinion and the results he gets but where we disagree is giving up control of the muzzle. I use a long stem indicator and indicate in the throat area and dial in the bore on the muzzle then go to work. I like having the muzzle and hopfully the point of impact close to the centerline of the action. As they say some people drive Chevy's, some drive Fords. </div></div>

here is a quick, crude and extremely exaggerated drawing that i made to explain why i think that either a tapered range rod and fitted bushing or gordy's method are better than dialing in both the muzzle and chamber end in. in my opinion, a range rod or gordy's method allows the bullet to enter the bore at as close to tangent as possible. when dialing in both the chamber (throat) and the muzzle, the bullet will enter secant to the bore. i am sure you are getting the results you want with your method and i am not trying to change your mind. i am in a constant quest for knowledge so i would really like to hear why you feel your method is superior.

the arrows are the points that get indicated in each method. the curved lines are the extremely exaggerated bore. the dashed line is the imaginary line created when indicating at two locations. the bullet shaped things are the bullets
grin.gif
.

boreindicatingdebate.jpg
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

I have the single phase model of the lathe he uses. I use his method for chambering all my barrels. It works quite well! The video is nice too. I would have rather had it be a little longer, but I DEFINATELY learned a couple of tricks I hadn't thought of yet, and probablly paid for the video.
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

A friend and I went to one of Gordy's two day chambering classes and I have to say the class is well worth the money. Gordy is the most organized and meticulous gunsmith I have ever been around plus his chambering method just makes sense to me.
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JamieD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've got to spend a fair amount of time wih Gordy. He is great guy and an accuracy nut. Watching him work is awsome and I have learned alot from from him. I think he has a good point on how he dials in a barrel for chambering. It just makes sense.

I filmed his last three video's at his shop (not the Grizzly video). First one is out, next two should be on the market this spring. He shares alot of trade secrets.

Here is my spider I made for my Southbend to use his technique.

IMG_6845.jpg


JamieD
Wolf Precision
All Hogs Go to Heaven
</div></div>

Guessing you have a 10L (Hvy 10)? Your spider doesn't allow you leaving the small shield on does it? If you take that off then how do you hold the lower gear cover closed? Your pic doesn't show it or do you install remove the spider each time? Would you be interested in making me one and what would price be? I have limited other tools or ability to obtain stock etc in my small town. Don't have a band saw, mill etc and my pacer/defibrillator fed ticker don't cotton well to extended manual labor with a hacksaw.
smile.gif


I have been chambering between centers with my Atlas and have had good luck thus far. Have had this 10L for almost 2yrs and hardly used it yet. Would like to try the headstock method but need the spider and the range rods, better dial indicators etc so with limited funds that hasn't been a big priority but want to give it a go. Thanks. Please email etc if you would consider it.I have a hell of a time staying logged on here and took 4 attempts to post this. Address in my profile. Thanks alot.

Respectfully,
Dennis
 
Re: Gordy Gritters

there are soooooo many ways to skin this cat you cant imagine. I go thru the headstock and dial both ends of the barrel in. I also hold my reamer with my hand so i can feel it cut. Never built a gun that wasn't stupidly accurate. I do use a floating pusher for the reamer.

i have dialed a few in like GG suggests and measured up to .1" of run out on the muzzle. Then dialed it in on both ends, cut my chamber and shot one hole with them. Actually, my WSM was the worst and i can get sub 2" groups at 700 with it. In another test i cut my 6BR barrel down and re chambered it and purposely dialed it .020 out. I cut the chamber and the groups did not change one bit.

The pilot on your reamer, when properly fit to your bore has no choice but to accurately FOLLOW the bore. The bore of your barrel is whats going to make it a shooter, not the method it was chambered in.

Using the GG method make sure you index your barrel up at the muzzle. Otherwise you will have elevation or windage woes. If you have a fluted barrel you most likely wont have to worry about timing the flutes..
 
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