Got permission to get a new 22. Please help
- Thread starter SanPatHogger
- Start date
I have one in every cal offered lol spend more time shooting those than anything else.
Get your 10/22 going. You can get new barrel , stock and other items for less than $600.00. Maybe even a nice scope included with that 600.00. You will be able to compete no problem , plus have a very very accurate hunting gun. Only way to go in my opinion. MD
Do NOT get rid of that gun ! You'll be sorry some day . Best option is to find out why it's not running smoothly and address that issue . Next option is to put a new barrel on it and maybe a better trigger . Most of the times when a 10/22 doesn't run smoothly it's dirty or using bad mags . Do you break it down and properly clean it ?
Clean the Ruger again. I lube my rifles with 1-2 drops of a high grade gun lube and a Q-tip. Only lube the metal parts that rub on other metal parts and only with the minimum amount of lube. Less is more. If you are shooting is a dry, windy, dusty environment, then a dry type lube is a must. Even then, use less.
Ditch the 25 rd mags. The best Ruger is crap for accuracy but it should run OK. I have a few 22's and can shot OK. Of the options you listed: Savage, CZ and Bergara, I have experience with all of them. The CZ and Bergara will be more accurate than the Savage most of the time. The Bergara B14 can take a Rem 700 trigger so that is not an issue. I compete in factory class with a CZ. I have the 457 AT-1 and the 457 VPT in the Manner carbon stock of the two, I like the VPT better just because the stock fits me better. The chassis model is another good one. Tikka t1X is another stellar budget rifle. The plastic stock sucks but there are many after market options available to fix that.
Ditch the 25 rd mags. The best Ruger is crap for accuracy but it should run OK. I have a few 22's and can shot OK. Of the options you listed: Savage, CZ and Bergara, I have experience with all of them. The CZ and Bergara will be more accurate than the Savage most of the time. The Bergara B14 can take a Rem 700 trigger so that is not an issue. I compete in factory class with a CZ. I have the 457 AT-1 and the 457 VPT in the Manner carbon stock of the two, I like the VPT better just because the stock fits me better. The chassis model is another good one. Tikka t1X is another stellar budget rifle. The plastic stock sucks but there are many after market options available to fix that.
I stopped reading when you said you were going to sell a gun your father bought you. You will regret that someday, and for what, a couple hundred bucks, totally not worth it. Keep the gun.
Took it apart today. Perfectly clean except for the oil in it.
Brake cleaner and set in the sun. In the top of the receiver are some white streaks from where the bolt and charging handle ride. I used a green scotchbrite pad and a screwdriver to clean up the streaks and just smooth them out a little.
I dug through my stash and came up with 2 bottles of Smith and Wesson dry lube that I got at a NRA dinner years ago. A few drops on the guide rod and where the charging handle and bolt ride. cycled it a few times. Cleaned out the trigger and put dry lube in it too and cycled it a few times. Put it back together but have not shot it yet. I'll take it out and run all 4 mags full through it tonight. Two 10 rounders and two BX 25 round mags.
Brake cleaner and set in the sun. In the top of the receiver are some white streaks from where the bolt and charging handle ride. I used a green scotchbrite pad and a screwdriver to clean up the streaks and just smooth them out a little.
I dug through my stash and came up with 2 bottles of Smith and Wesson dry lube that I got at a NRA dinner years ago. A few drops on the guide rod and where the charging handle and bolt ride. cycled it a few times. Cleaned out the trigger and put dry lube in it too and cycled it a few times. Put it back together but have not shot it yet. I'll take it out and run all 4 mags full through it tonight. Two 10 rounders and two BX 25 round mags.
First, my thoughts on 10/22 improvements :
What are some absolute “must have” 10/22 mods?
Barrel.
Scope. Quality mount and rings.
Everything else can be done by modifying existing parts, with the exception of a few pins fabricated from drill rod or purchased, a few odd springs, and a piece of rubber/nylon/polybutylene rod.
You can headspace the bolt, pin the firing pin, tune the tip, tune the extractor, radius and smooth the bolt's rear, and polish the bearing surfaces. Polish the charging handle contact points and spring strut.
You can bed the scope rail to the receiver, polish the bolt contact areas, drill the receiver rear for a cleaning rod, replace the recoil pin with a synthetic alternative, bed the barrel tenon to the receiver.
You can open up the factory stock's barrel channel, add an epoxy barrel support pad, bed the receiver rear, pillar bed the take down screw, modify the stocks exterior to better fit the shooter.
You can replace all pins for oversized ones which precisely fit the trigger group parts. Add a sear engagement limiter, disconnector limiter, either a longer trigger return plunger to act as a stop, or tap the trigger for an over travel stop. Polish all contact and bearing surfaces and struts, replace the trigger return and disconnector springs with lighter ones, modify the bolt stop, add an extension for the mag release if desired, precisely fit the sear nose for positive safety function.
Use moly grease for loaded pressure points, light oil for high speed, bearing surfaces.
Buy good ammo.
What are some absolute “must have” 10/22 mods?
Barrel.
Scope. Quality mount and rings.
Everything else can be done by modifying existing parts, with the exception of a few pins fabricated from drill rod or purchased, a few odd springs, and a piece of rubber/nylon/polybutylene rod.
You can headspace the bolt, pin the firing pin, tune the tip, tune the extractor, radius and smooth the bolt's rear, and polish the bearing surfaces. Polish the charging handle contact points and spring strut.
You can bed the scope rail to the receiver, polish the bolt contact areas, drill the receiver rear for a cleaning rod, replace the recoil pin with a synthetic alternative, bed the barrel tenon to the receiver.
You can open up the factory stock's barrel channel, add an epoxy barrel support pad, bed the receiver rear, pillar bed the take down screw, modify the stocks exterior to better fit the shooter.
You can replace all pins for oversized ones which precisely fit the trigger group parts. Add a sear engagement limiter, disconnector limiter, either a longer trigger return plunger to act as a stop, or tap the trigger for an over travel stop. Polish all contact and bearing surfaces and struts, replace the trigger return and disconnector springs with lighter ones, modify the bolt stop, add an extension for the mag release if desired, precisely fit the sear nose for positive safety function.
Use moly grease for loaded pressure points, light oil for high speed, bearing surfaces.
Buy good ammo.
Now the bad post:
Don’t even consider shopping for a bolt gun until you figure out the 10/22. It’s an incredibly simple design. I’ve owned in excess of 20 and tuned perhaps 3X that many, and have never seen one that couldn’t be figured out.
What ammo?
What’s your environment (temps/humidity)?
Are you using an air compressor when cleaning?
I use liquid lubrication, but with that said, the bolt assembly takes less than 3 drops of oil atomized/spread with compressed air to do the job.
Also, how many rounds do you expect to fire between cleaning?
A factory gun may run a brick of mid grade ammo without a hick-up. My custom built with all fitted parts still gets cranky after 200 rounds. Tight guns take more cleaning.
As for your current issues, I need answers rather than shotgunning a host of cures that may not apply.
So I went out this afternoon and shot a few rounds. 10 rounds through each mag to start. Blazer 40gr, CCI SV, and then Federal automath in 2. All 4 had a fail to eject. Sometimes stovepiping an empty sideways and sometime the empty is completly backwards and blocking the bolt open.
Then shot teh 25 round mags with all 25 loaded, Federal automatch. Bopth mags shot about 13 or 14 fine, then started to not eject empties after that.
Buddy of mine suggested running CCI mini mags. I have some of those, I might go back out tonight and just do a couple mag dumps at 100 yards.
Then shot teh 25 round mags with all 25 loaded, Federal automatch. Bopth mags shot about 13 or 14 fine, then started to not eject empties after that.
Buddy of mine suggested running CCI mini mags. I have some of those, I might go back out tonight and just do a couple mag dumps at 100 yards.
CCI Blazer 40gr. CCI SV. Federal automatch. CCI camo ammo out of a milk carton. Trying Minimags later.
Shoot when its anywhere from 40° to 90° or so. Its always humid here, but dry lately.
No air compressor. The bolt and receiver were cleaned spotlessly and lubed with 5w30, It ran smooth for 40 rounds or so and then started to malfunction again, I used a lot of lube. I cleaned it out again and cleaned the rough wear spots on the receiver with a scotchbrite pad and then dry lubed the receiver and dry lubed the charging handle and guide rod and bolt. Shot today and it was no better.
I'd like to shoot a couple hundred rounds without having a malfunction. A 100 ound match would be minimum without a malfunction.
It might need the bolt to be taken apart and fully cleaned/inspected. It could need a new ejector/extractor. Also, make sure your chamber is polished clean. I know that sounds like a given, but if there's any crap in that chamber, it will hangup and stovepipe.
Examine the chamber breechface for damage either from the firing pin or the extractor hook. Look for dents of a blown extractor groove.
Check and research “tuning the extractor”.
Check your ejector.
Is this gun all factory (original barrel), sometimes barrel tenons are out of spec in length.
Check that the barrels extractor groove allows the extractor to enter without rubbing on the sides indicating misalignment.
Again, less lubrication, and use the correct light weight gun oil, leave the motor oil for the cars.
Check the ejector on your magazines, make sure there’s no damage from dropping.
Above all else, be safe in diagnosing the issue.
I just watched this whole video. It is pretty long, but the guy did a fantastic job. I already have the extractor and firing pin and they work great. I think the foil tape idea is going to help a lot. If it does I will epoxy it and make it permanent.
Everyone is on the same page about keeping what you have. If you are still wanting to use the mags you could pick up a ruger precision rimfire. It would run you high $300. I have one and I shot it in a match as few times and it ran great.
I had three VBZ models in different rimfire calibers and they all went down the road because of sub-par performance compared to my other rimfire.
Yeah I never got any of the Gucci models just stainless/synthetic. A 24" bull barrel on a rimfire was never very appealing to me.
Sorry about your luck? Mine have been going strong for 25+ years.
That seems to be the recurring theme with Rugers when it comes to accuracy….your either lucky or your not.
Seems to be a recurring with lots of manufacturers. Had to send a few Remington 700p's and a s&w performance center revolver in for warranty work before I ever shot them. Regardless of product, cars, knives, firearms, packs, clothes etc sometimes you get a lemon.
To insinuate it's a problem exclusive to Ruger would be silly. I'm sure that's not where you were going, sucks you got some lemons..
Nobody really wants to pay for quality control. A quality 700P should be $1,600 but Savage makes a $750 model that shoots "just as good", and there was an investment company that was hungry for profit.
All I know is that my 401K had better perform this year
Truth. Most have gone to letting customers perform quality control..Nobody really wants to pay for quality control. A quality 700P should be $1,600 but Savage makes a $750 model that shoots "just as good", and there was an investment company that was hungry for profit.
All I know is that my 401K had better perform this year
700p's in question were from 2002ish...
Daddy told me not to play with savages or I'd get a rash.
So I shot the gun with the tape shimmed mags, had ejection problems with all 4. So I decided to cut one of the BX25s. A guy on another forum said this fixed his ejection problems. It did not fix mine.
Seems to be better but not fixed. I took a video and it seems like the bolt may not be coming all the way back when it does stovepipe.
So I took it all back apart again and cleaned off the bolt and used 400 grit wet sand paper and polished the edges of the bolt and the surfaces that ride on any part of the receiver. Put it back together and by hand the bolt feels like it does cycle smoother.
Took it out and shot again..... Still fails to eject.
I'm going to order an aftermarket ejector, The factory one does seem a little bit low on the bolt....
This thing is kicking my ass hard.
By the way I shot Federal automatch, Aguilla super extra and CCI camoflage ammo fom a milk carton.
Seems to be better but not fixed. I took a video and it seems like the bolt may not be coming all the way back when it does stovepipe.
So I took it all back apart again and cleaned off the bolt and used 400 grit wet sand paper and polished the edges of the bolt and the surfaces that ride on any part of the receiver. Put it back together and by hand the bolt feels like it does cycle smoother.
Took it out and shot again..... Still fails to eject.
I'm going to order an aftermarket ejector, The factory one does seem a little bit low on the bolt....
This thing is kicking my ass hard.
By the way I shot Federal automatch, Aguilla super extra and CCI camoflage ammo fom a milk carton.
Ive got some of the volquartsen internal replacement parts laying in the shop, but don't own a 10/22. PM me your address and I'll send them your way.So I shot the gun with the tape shimmed mags, had ejection problems with all 4. So I decided to cut one of the BX25s. A guy on another forum said this fixed his ejection problems. It did not fix mine.
Seems to be better but not fixed. I took a video and it seems like the bolt may not be coming all the way back when it does stovepipe.
So I took it all back apart again and cleaned off the bolt and used 400 grit wet sand paper and polished the edges of the bolt and the surfaces that ride on any part of the receiver. Put it back together and by hand the bolt feels like it does cycle smoother.
Took it out and shot again..... Still fails to eject.
I'm going to order an aftermarket ejector, The factory one does seem a little bit low on the bolt....
This thing is kicking my ass hard.
By the way I shot Federal automatch, Aguilla super extra and CCI camoflage ammo fom a milk carton.
Not saying it'll fix the problems, but can't hurt.
I already put in the Volquartsen firing pin and extractor. Misfires are almost non existant and the brass always comes out of the chamber....
Running out of ideas.
Running out of ideas.
The parts I have are springs and the the rubber bolt stops(whatever they're called)..
Yours if you want them.
I put all Valquartsen internals in mine back when I first built it in 2002, and It's been flawless other than a few times it got dirty from carbon, so I cleaned it, and then no more issues. Other than the barrel, I probably don't clean that gun but every 5,000-10,000 rounds. I shoot suppressed now, so every so often I'll wipe the back of the barrel and chamber area out with a RemOil cloth, and then put a mag back in it, but that's about the only cleaning I've done on that gun in 20 years. Occasionally I'll pull the stock and clean underneath it just so it doesn't get too damn nasty...But that's only like every 5-10 years.
I highly recommend the Valquartsen internals. Definitely a nice upgrade, especially if you have the bolt-lock disconnect that allows you to engage the bolt into battery by just pulling it backwards and letting it run home, without having to push that stupid safety bar under the trigger. Also the extended mag button is a lifesaver.
I highly recommend the Valquartsen internals. Definitely a nice upgrade, especially if you have the bolt-lock disconnect that allows you to engage the bolt into battery by just pulling it backwards and letting it run home, without having to push that stupid safety bar under the trigger. Also the extended mag button is a lifesaver.
Also, I hate to say it, but nobody's mentioned a rough chamber... A simple barrel swap might be in order, and it would probably be significantly more accurate with a good stock and a high-quality barrel with a Bentz Match Chamber, like the Valquartsen barrels. Put one on mine back in Dec 2020 (my match barrel wasn't threaded), and I've been thoroughly pleased. Puts 10 shots inside of a 1.5" group at 100 yards with CCI SV ammo. And I regularly take it out to 200 just for fun, plinking on the 5" challenge tree gongs. And I'm usually at least 8/9 out of 10 shots on those.
Right now It's sitting in a cheap Hogue Overmold stock, but I've got a nice Tactical Solutions laminated thumbhole stock I don't use anymore...Doesn't fit my hand right. Never did, so it wasn't on there very long.
Right now It's sitting in a cheap Hogue Overmold stock, but I've got a nice Tactical Solutions laminated thumbhole stock I don't use anymore...Doesn't fit my hand right. Never did, so it wasn't on there very long.
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I did the tape trick on the mags. Did not help.
I cut the ejector off one of my BX-25 mags, no help.
Clean and lube, clean and lube.... nothing.
Friend of mine is letting me shoot his CZ 452 varmint till I get my own.
So Saturday night we went out and shot to confirm zero and dope from 50-110 with the 22 bolt guns for a match next weekend.
Ran CCI Minimags...... Not one malfunction.
This gun runs with Minimags.
I guess I'll buy a couple bricks of Minimags and call it good.
Thank you guys for all your input and suggestions. It's been hell, but I smiles after me and my buddy ran 2 mags through it perfectly.
I cut the ejector off one of my BX-25 mags, no help.
Clean and lube, clean and lube.... nothing.
Friend of mine is letting me shoot his CZ 452 varmint till I get my own.
So Saturday night we went out and shot to confirm zero and dope from 50-110 with the 22 bolt guns for a match next weekend.
Ran CCI Minimags...... Not one malfunction.
This gun runs with Minimags.
I guess I'll buy a couple bricks of Minimags and call it good.
Thank you guys for all your input and suggestions. It's been hell, but I smiles after me and my buddy ran 2 mags through it perfectly.
I'd swap the bolt and barrel, polish the inside of the receiver. If it is running with mini mags it's a friction issue if it has the stock handle. I have three I built, they all shoot as good as my Bergara B14r.
Should be able to run standard velocity reliably. They're more accurate than mini mags too.
I would really like the gun to cycle SV.
I was thinking that the charging handle and guide rod might be a little stiff. Maybe the spring is a little heavy. But the spring still has to be strong enough to strip a round and chamber it.... Maybe the hammer spring is a little heavy, but it has to be heavy enough to light off a round reliably....
I have a bolt gun to shoot until mine shows up. Got my own CZ on the way.
I was thinking that the charging handle and guide rod might be a little stiff. Maybe the spring is a little heavy. But the spring still has to be strong enough to strip a round and chamber it.... Maybe the hammer spring is a little heavy, but it has to be heavy enough to light off a round reliably....
I have a bolt gun to shoot until mine shows up. Got my own CZ on the way.
Here is an Idea.
#1. You keep your Dads 10/22 as is.
ZERO mods!
Keeping it as it was in all your memories.
#2 Go out and buy your own 10/22.
This way you 2 can shoot your 10/22's TOGETHER!
Massive great memories!
#1. You keep your Dads 10/22 as is.
ZERO mods!
Keeping it as it was in all your memories.
#2 Go out and buy your own 10/22.
This way you 2 can shoot your 10/22's TOGETHER!
Massive great memories!
I was going to start a new thread but I'll just keep yapping here.
So a friend of mine has loaned me a rifle to shoot for a while. Its a CZ 452 Varmint.
Shot it a few times and found this gun won't eject correctly either. I really thought he was messing with me bad.....
Ended up pulling the extractors out and cleaning them and its fixed.
Now I shoot some CCI SV and it shoots soooo good. 5 shot groups that are a clover leaf at 50 yards.
Shot at 100 and shooting amazing small groups. Tune the velocity in the balistic app and shoot at 50, 75, 100 and 110.
I feel like I can't miss. This rifle is amazing.
Shot this little steel spinner at 110. The guy who owns the rifle won't sell it to me, so I told a few people I am in the market for one.
My cousin sends me some pictures of a 455 with a threaded barrel.
He tells me the guy will take $400 for it.
I stold him I'll send a check if he can get it. An hour or so later he sends me pictures of the gun in his truck.
I won't have it for a few months, I'm in Texas and he's in Georgia.
I hope it shoots like a 452 varmint.
So a friend of mine has loaned me a rifle to shoot for a while. Its a CZ 452 Varmint.
Shot it a few times and found this gun won't eject correctly either. I really thought he was messing with me bad.....
Ended up pulling the extractors out and cleaning them and its fixed.
Now I shoot some CCI SV and it shoots soooo good. 5 shot groups that are a clover leaf at 50 yards.
Shot at 100 and shooting amazing small groups. Tune the velocity in the balistic app and shoot at 50, 75, 100 and 110.
I feel like I can't miss. This rifle is amazing.
Shot this little steel spinner at 110. The guy who owns the rifle won't sell it to me, so I told a few people I am in the market for one.
My cousin sends me some pictures of a 455 with a threaded barrel.
He tells me the guy will take $400 for it.
I stold him I'll send a check if he can get it. An hour or so later he sends me pictures of the gun in his truck.
I won't have it for a few months, I'm in Texas and he's in Georgia.
I hope it shoots like a 452 varmint.
I would verify that it has 1/2x28 threads... Most CZ rifles come with weird Euro threads like 1/2x20... So I would confirm thread pitch before trying to screw on a suppressor.
I'm not a rimfire shooter so I don't really know what is considered good accuracy.
I have a T Bolt in a light sporter barrel. I shoot a magazine almost every second day in my 100m backyard range. Most nights, I am within 1 inch group and within 2 inches of POA.
Cleaned every 100 rounds. Never had a malfunction. Ejection is a little strong and random (unlike my centerfires that I can eject into a bucket consistently).
Tossed up between the cz457 and LA101 for my next. Went with another T bolt but in a varmint with adjustable cheek.
My friends who have shot my T bolt have also bought one, making it four new rifles on the way.
PS. I should mention I shoot off natural rests only. No bags, no bipods or tripods. Just random arrangement of logs for the day.
I have a T Bolt in a light sporter barrel. I shoot a magazine almost every second day in my 100m backyard range. Most nights, I am within 1 inch group and within 2 inches of POA.
Cleaned every 100 rounds. Never had a malfunction. Ejection is a little strong and random (unlike my centerfires that I can eject into a bucket consistently).
Tossed up between the cz457 and LA101 for my next. Went with another T bolt but in a varmint with adjustable cheek.
My friends who have shot my T bolt have also bought one, making it four new rifles on the way.
PS. I should mention I shoot off natural rests only. No bags, no bipods or tripods. Just random arrangement of logs for the day.
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Ruger is alright for a semi,my preference there is Marlin,but for the best accuracy get a bolt,and the best bolt out there right now is Bergara BMR,accuracy,technology, precision ,a top line barrel maker,trained by Ed Shilen with Rifles designed by a retired United States Marine straight out of the Marine Corps Precison weapons Unit. You get no better than that -ever- Semper Fi oorah my Alma Mater is Parris Island S.C. Class of 1972 by the way.
I read good things about the BMR rifles, and now that I have one, I'm seriously impressed that they can turn out the level of quality and consistency at the price point they are at.
If the ruger does not work right contact Ruger
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FuhQ, Has given everyone prudent advice. Check the thread dia and pitch.
I had a RRPR for a couple of months. I could never suggest it to anyone. But that is simply one mans opinion.
Some people have said that they must be good because of the countless rifles that have been made.
Conversely, low quantity production items must be trash.... ?? Trashy Corvettes, Indy cars, 757 aircraft.
NO... amazing
All 3 of my 457s have 1/2-28 threads for any device that I may want to add to your muzzle here in the USA. .
The exception being my 457 Royal. It has 1/2-20 threads and will need an adapter. My Royal was one of the first one's brought
into the USA so CZ America may have changed the thread pitch to match by now. I bought an adapter from Evil-bay for
about $20.00 but it looks like an afterthought and it took time to find it and get it into my hands. ( see image #1 )
Below is a Royal target shot at 50 yards with a factory gun and it's short pencil barrel.
My three CZ 457s have AREA 419 rails because they clamp onto the dove tail securely. Other rails require set screws being driven
down onto the receiver. I spoke with Bob at DIP and he suggested putting #7 lead shot under the set screws to prevent damage.
If you were to use brass tipped set screws you will find out that they will leave yellow-ish skid marks on the bluing. Even if it
doesn't shift the screws rotate as they are torqued.
Except for the At-One that has a couple of chips to the stock, they are LN with box. They also have all of the factory components.
Lap your 457 trigger blade sear and replace the spring and that will yield substantial benefits and be a great interim solution.
The 457 trigger can go as low as 7 ounces. It will also remove any gritty feel and it will break crisp and clean. McMaster # 9657K611
( .375" long x .148" dia. x .014" wire dia. )
I'm going through an older rifle stage. I find I really like older stuff like a Springfield 1922 Mk2 and a Winchester 52 Pre-A,
old Anschutz 54s, Remington 541X, H&R M12, ( latest addition ) etc. They shoot really well and I like the retro style of them.
Just the other day 5/25/2022, I got my first Redfield 3200 16X scope. ( shown in image #6 )
All of my toys are a little pricey but I'm worth it. I imagine most of you are as well. It's hard to put a price on pride of ownership.
Have you ever had buyers remorse because you bought stuff that was too nice?
I had a RRPR for a couple of months. I could never suggest it to anyone. But that is simply one mans opinion.
Some people have said that they must be good because of the countless rifles that have been made.
Conversely, low quantity production items must be trash.... ?? Trashy Corvettes, Indy cars, 757 aircraft.
NO... amazing
All 3 of my 457s have 1/2-28 threads for any device that I may want to add to your muzzle here in the USA. .
The exception being my 457 Royal. It has 1/2-20 threads and will need an adapter. My Royal was one of the first one's brought
into the USA so CZ America may have changed the thread pitch to match by now. I bought an adapter from Evil-bay for
about $20.00 but it looks like an afterthought and it took time to find it and get it into my hands. ( see image #1 )
Below is a Royal target shot at 50 yards with a factory gun and it's short pencil barrel.
My three CZ 457s have AREA 419 rails because they clamp onto the dove tail securely. Other rails require set screws being driven
down onto the receiver. I spoke with Bob at DIP and he suggested putting #7 lead shot under the set screws to prevent damage.
If you were to use brass tipped set screws you will find out that they will leave yellow-ish skid marks on the bluing. Even if it
doesn't shift the screws rotate as they are torqued.
Except for the At-One that has a couple of chips to the stock, they are LN with box. They also have all of the factory components.
Lap your 457 trigger blade sear and replace the spring and that will yield substantial benefits and be a great interim solution.
The 457 trigger can go as low as 7 ounces. It will also remove any gritty feel and it will break crisp and clean. McMaster # 9657K611
( .375" long x .148" dia. x .014" wire dia. )
I'm going through an older rifle stage. I find I really like older stuff like a Springfield 1922 Mk2 and a Winchester 52 Pre-A,
old Anschutz 54s, Remington 541X, H&R M12, ( latest addition ) etc. They shoot really well and I like the retro style of them.
Just the other day 5/25/2022, I got my first Redfield 3200 16X scope. ( shown in image #6 )
All of my toys are a little pricey but I'm worth it. I imagine most of you are as well. It's hard to put a price on pride of ownership.
Have you ever had buyers remorse because you bought stuff that was too nice?
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Have you tried replacing your springs? If you're getting stove pipes it might be that your bolt isn't travelling fully or easy enough. I would check your springs aren't either gunked up or haven't work hardened.
Scrummy
Scrummy
He didn't have to tell all of us he has to get permission......“Permission to get a new .22”
Dude, you need to work on your strategy!
I love my savage. May have something to do with having a savage 64 for as my first 22 but any who.
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I have an older B14R that has the square cut in the bolt that some people break when they withdrawal the bolt and it hits the bolt stop.
My factory gun with it's trashy trigger outshoot my Vudoo. It's a steel barrel type and cost me $975.00 when new. Mine runs flawlessly in
every respect. The factory trigger is long and gritty! MIM construction was used to create it and its internal parts are fairly soft and corners,
like the sears that should be flat and square are slightly rounded. Not a product that I would have sold. Some secondary operations would
have made a tremendous difference in the FCG. My V22 has a Trigger Tech Diamond. I got a Jewell HVR for my B14R.... mistake! Plenty lite
but very creepy! Other than the FCG.... I feel the steel barrel version is a good value. As of 1/22/2024.... magazines are readily available.
I have had three CZ457s. A spring change and sear polish can get you a crisp 8 oz trigger. Fat stocked MTR, my favorite. AT-One- most accurate
but hated the Boyds stock. Royal with the pencil barrel. still shot decent. see below. I will likely buy another 457 when mags and ancillary
parts are easy to come by.
My factory gun with it's trashy trigger outshoot my Vudoo. It's a steel barrel type and cost me $975.00 when new. Mine runs flawlessly in
every respect. The factory trigger is long and gritty! MIM construction was used to create it and its internal parts are fairly soft and corners,
like the sears that should be flat and square are slightly rounded. Not a product that I would have sold. Some secondary operations would
have made a tremendous difference in the FCG. My V22 has a Trigger Tech Diamond. I got a Jewell HVR for my B14R.... mistake! Plenty lite
but very creepy! Other than the FCG.... I feel the steel barrel version is a good value. As of 1/22/2024.... magazines are readily available.
I have had three CZ457s. A spring change and sear polish can get you a crisp 8 oz trigger. Fat stocked MTR, my favorite. AT-One- most accurate
but hated the Boyds stock. Royal with the pencil barrel. still shot decent. see below. I will likely buy another 457 when mags and ancillary
parts are easy to come by.
