Grease the bolt
- Thread starter Bungi
- Start date
a beach it's free , kids play yard sand is also cheap ass play sand clay could work I guess .lol
4.99 per bag it's cheap ass play sand and if you take a scoop from your neighbors kids sand box your even cheaper than I was yea I should have called it sand box sand not ass play sand .
4.99 per bag it's cheap ass play sand and if you take a scoop from your neighbors kids sand box your even cheaper than I was yea I should have called it sand box sand not ass play sand .
Go to post 109,724 on page 2195 of the Motivational pic thread. @clcustom1911 discusses "lapping" sand towards the end of the page.
The only thing I don't care for with Lucas Oil Red-N-Tacky, is it doesn't hold up to heat very well. This is my grease gun filled with a cartridge of it after sitting in a hot garage all Summer. The paper towel is completely soaked through, and has puddled in the pan. It has now become "Red-N-Runny". I would imagine it would do much the same on any hot firearm parts, like the bolt carrier group of an AR-15 or AK-47.
That looks like a non-stick pan and I think that's the problem.The only thing I don't care for with Lucas Oil Red-N-Tacky, is it doesn't hold up to heat very well. This is my grease gun filled with a cartridge of it after sitting in a hot garage all Summer. The paper towel is completely soaked through, and has puddled in the pan. It has now become "Red-N-Runny". I would imagine it would do much the same on any hot firearm parts, like the bolt carrier group of an AR-15 or AK-47.
Yeah that’s pretty neat.
I wish it didn’t have a smell though. I’m with him and don’t like using stuff that can spook game animals.
Which one shot?I don’t even bother with anything else now.
Hornady one shot dry lube and that’s it. It improves the feel of any bolt gun.
Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range
By: DIY_guy We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I?m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I begandayattherange.com
The red case lube can or the black gun cleaner lube can?
Antisieze on the bolt lugs
Little swipe on the cocking cam is helpful, same on bolt shroud threads where applicable (Not Grease).
I have been using a 50/50 mix of light gun oil and STP additive (automotive engine oil). I have been using it for over 50 years. I first started using it on 1911 pistol slides and frame rails in competition in Alaska. I put equal parts in an eye dropper bottle and it will last several years before needing refilling.
Do you really need to ask when 1) he told you in the line you quoted yourself, 2) it specifies in the article, 3) case lube, really?
I have their original formula & it has a mild citrus scent. They now have this Hunters blend.
Ok, so we are talking about bolt action rifles here...and lubricating the bolt mechanical interfaces (lugs mainly), yeah?
Quite some time ago there was a raging debate on a very large shotgun forum about what lubricant to use on break action (O/U) shotguns.
A few people with a good bit of knowledge regarding lubricants in high pressure/high heat applications brought up Timken OK Load testing. It is a measure of a lubricant's ability to...well, continue to lubricate under a heavy load.
I'm not at all an expert on this subject and it was quite some time ago (and at my age I can't remember what I had for breakfast) and someone in manufacturing engineering (maybe my friend @308pirate or others) can comment/correct me.
But the bottom line is we don't have loads and heat like the bearings of race car wheels (which is where the Timken Ok test started from, I believe).
All we are really trying to do on the lugs of a bolt action rifle (or break action shotgun) is prevent galling from the interfacing surfaces and this really is not a very demanding application for lubricants.
To my mind, using grease over an oil on a bolt is a no-brainer. As I said in an earlier post, any good synthetic bearing grease from an auto parts store will do very well for a fraction of the cost of some gun specific grease which....in almost all cases..... is just a repackaging for the gun market of an existing lubricant. I believe that gun lubricant's specifically formulated for some brand or another is very rare if not totally non-existant. Mostly just a repackaging of stuff that is already being produced.
Now, from having been a skeet shooter for a very long time, I'm in the habit of wiping off grease and reapplying at short intervals as mixing it with target dust can make it into a lapping compound (ok, I exaggerate but you get my meaning). I do the same with bolts. If I'm out where there is blowing dust/sand/etc its zero effort (almost) to just pull the bolt, wipe off the lugs, and re-grease.
Just my view of it but I'm more than willing to be corrected by those with greater expertise in lubricants.
Quite some time ago there was a raging debate on a very large shotgun forum about what lubricant to use on break action (O/U) shotguns.
A few people with a good bit of knowledge regarding lubricants in high pressure/high heat applications brought up Timken OK Load testing. It is a measure of a lubricant's ability to...well, continue to lubricate under a heavy load.
I'm not at all an expert on this subject and it was quite some time ago (and at my age I can't remember what I had for breakfast) and someone in manufacturing engineering (maybe my friend @308pirate or others) can comment/correct me.
But the bottom line is we don't have loads and heat like the bearings of race car wheels (which is where the Timken Ok test started from, I believe).
All we are really trying to do on the lugs of a bolt action rifle (or break action shotgun) is prevent galling from the interfacing surfaces and this really is not a very demanding application for lubricants.
To my mind, using grease over an oil on a bolt is a no-brainer. As I said in an earlier post, any good synthetic bearing grease from an auto parts store will do very well for a fraction of the cost of some gun specific grease which....in almost all cases..... is just a repackaging for the gun market of an existing lubricant. I believe that gun lubricant's specifically formulated for some brand or another is very rare if not totally non-existant. Mostly just a repackaging of stuff that is already being produced.
Now, from having been a skeet shooter for a very long time, I'm in the habit of wiping off grease and reapplying at short intervals as mixing it with target dust can make it into a lapping compound (ok, I exaggerate but you get my meaning). I do the same with bolts. If I'm out where there is blowing dust/sand/etc its zero effort (almost) to just pull the bolt, wipe off the lugs, and re-grease.
Just my view of it but I'm more than willing to be corrected by those with greater expertise in lubricants.
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Lubricants and tribology aren't my fields of expertise but everything I've read says the same.
It becomes more demanding when the brass cases doesn't fit in the chamber. Then you are putting a lot more pressure on your lugs as the case gets crammed into the chamber.
Well now, that's new to me. I'm gonna give it a try. Sounds like a good idea.I don’t even bother with anything else now.
Hornady one shot dry lube and that’s it. It improves the feel of any bolt gun.
Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range
By: DIY_guy We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I?m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I began
Yeah, but it still ain't doodly squat compared to what these type of greases are generally designed to handle....in my opinion, of course! haha
That’s a few orders of magnitude less pressure than the lugs encounter when firing a cartridge that does fit properly.
Like @308pirate tribilogy isn’t my field, but I err on the side of:
* Corrosion prevention
* Embedded grit prevention, and thus scratch minimization
That’s basically why I go for nitrided actions given the option. Everything needs a super thin coat of oil but that’ll stick around forever and not catch a lot of dust.
Exception is break-action shotguns which really do see a lot of sliding on surfaces that tend to be bare steel.
The lugs aren't moving when a round is fired. I doubt any lug has ever been galled from firing a round. Or maybe that is when that first little ball of metal gets made, I don't know. I imagine there are way more from chambering rounds that needed a couple more thousandths of shoulder bump, on some bone dry lugs. Lubriplate, grease, oil, antisieze, bacon grease, KFC extra crispy chicken skins. It needs something. I like "grease." Grease is an extremely general term.
I always wondered why wheel bearings get oil instead of grease. Oh wait......
when you have a think about it, wheel bearings dont spin and they shouldnt slide - the bearings roll in the races, if they cease to roll, then they are sliding along the race, and if they sieze in the race, then the shaft is spinning inside the race - as I understand it, in a wheel bearing the lubricants main purpose is as a coolant and either oil or grease would work and its up to the designer as to what kind of seals they want to use (eg contain grease, or contain oil) - I've seen wheel bearings use grease and I've seen wheel bearings use oil, I've even seen some (very small - on roller skates) use a dry lubeI always wondered why wheel bearings get oil instead of grease. Oh wait......
Thats all I use on parts that slide, it is designed to stay put and heat does not effect it. I use the brushes used to apply soldering flux to put it on, I use scissors and cut the bristles about a quarter inch long to apply. A little bit goes a long way.
Peterbuilt, Kenworth, Mac, Freightliner, Mercedes, Volvo. Pretty anything that is a "truck" and not a "pickup," but lots of pickups also, especially those with free floating rear axels and drum brakes.
