group by on M40a1 barrels
- Thread starter Frank Green
- Start date
So I'm cutting it off today. No more orders. If my count is correct.... the total comes to 23 barrels. I'll have the shop make a run of 25 of them.
Time wise 4 months.
If all of you would please.... email us an order with your name, address, phone number and email address about the group buy for the M40A1 spec. barrels. Yes a few of you I have your address info but just do it again please. Email it to.... [email protected]
All will be 5R and 1-10 twist and S.S.
All will be contoured to 1.200" x 4.000" str. taper to .900" @ 25" finish / 27" blanks.
Price is a flat $400 which includes s&h. We don't need payment up front right away but if you could say half down in say 6-8 weeks would be appreciated. If you want to pay by c.c. there will be a 3.5% cc fee when it's all said and done for guys using a c.c.
Once we receive your email with your address info. etc... will enter a order for you specifically and email you a order confirmation.
So I'll say sometime in July the barrels will be done.
Later, Frank
Time wise 4 months.
If all of you would please.... email us an order with your name, address, phone number and email address about the group buy for the M40A1 spec. barrels. Yes a few of you I have your address info but just do it again please. Email it to.... [email protected]
All will be 5R and 1-10 twist and S.S.
All will be contoured to 1.200" x 4.000" str. taper to .900" @ 25" finish / 27" blanks.
Price is a flat $400 which includes s&h. We don't need payment up front right away but if you could say half down in say 6-8 weeks would be appreciated. If you want to pay by c.c. there will be a 3.5% cc fee when it's all said and done for guys using a c.c.
Once we receive your email with your address info. etc... will enter a order for you specifically and email you a order confirmation.
So I'll say sometime in July the barrels will be done.
Later, Frank
If all of you could please… when you email in your order… put a reference in there with your forum name/call out also.
That way I cross guys off of the hide list as the orders get entered.
Not a big deal… I just don’t want to miss anyone. I should’ve said that in my earlier post.
That way I cross guys off of the hide list as the orders get entered.
Not a big deal… I just don’t want to miss anyone. I should’ve said that in my earlier post.
So a little more than half that posted they want one.... sent in a email. So all of you that did send a email in I sent a order confirmation back.
On behalf of Bartlein Barrels.....thanks for the orders!
Also Thanks to the guys that are first time/new customers to us as well. Also thanks to you guys that are returning customers either directly or indirectly that have gotten our barrels in the past.
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
On behalf of Bartlein Barrels.....thanks for the orders!
Also Thanks to the guys that are first time/new customers to us as well. Also thanks to you guys that are returning customers either directly or indirectly that have gotten our barrels in the past.
Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
Guys, Not trying to beat anyone up... but there are about 9 guys still haven't emailed the shop with they're contact/address info etc....
[email protected]
I want to get all the orders entered so we can take them out to the shop to get the ball rolling on our end so we can make the July time frame.
I'm going to make the last call early next week to get your info in. If your info isn't in.... your gonna miss the boat.
Later, Frank
[email protected]
I want to get all the orders entered so we can take them out to the shop to get the ball rolling on our end so we can make the July time frame.
I'm going to make the last call early next week to get your info in. If your info isn't in.... your gonna miss the boat.
Later, Frank
@Redmanss and to everyone else.... it's picture day Thursday.....
Same two barrels the original and a turned one to mimic the turn lines just from a different distance with the camera. I think it's pretty close.
As @Redmanss says... when you run your thumbnail down the length of it... "it sings" Also you can see when he wiped it off when pulling it out the lathe to wipe off the coolant... you can see fibers from the shop rag.
The old take off original M40A1 barrel does feel smoother but that thing has been USED and repainted who knows how many times.
This work for you guys?
Same two barrels the original and a turned one to mimic the turn lines just from a different distance with the camera. I think it's pretty close.
As @Redmanss says... when you run your thumbnail down the length of it... "it sings" Also you can see when he wiped it off when pulling it out the lathe to wipe off the coolant... you can see fibers from the shop rag.
The old take off original M40A1 barrel does feel smoother but that thing has been USED and repainted who knows how many times.
This work for you guys?
What process was used to blacken the original stainless M40A1 barrels? Was it what we call nitriding? I found this process and I’m not sure if it’s what I need. I’d rather not go with Dura/Cera cote that seems to be the go to now.
The company is GunBlack Inc. but they look like a full service industrial finisher.
Thanks,
Greg
The company is GunBlack Inc. but they look like a full service industrial finisher.
Thanks,
Greg
I don't know offhand or remember hearing how they did.
Back in the late 50's / 60's when places like Remington or Win did the blued type finish on a stainless barrel (it came out like a flat black looking finish) they had to run the barrels thru a process (I forget the technical name) where they actually bonded iron particles to the outside of the barrel. That way the iron/c.m. particles would take the hot bluing finish.
Not sure about Win but it was in the early to mid 60's you will find Remington 700's that they did this to. A old friend of mine that I use to hunt with his dad had a 1962/64 time frame Remington 700 in 7mag. It had a stainless barrel that had that blued type finish.
Back in the late 50's / 60's when places like Remington or Win did the blued type finish on a stainless barrel (it came out like a flat black looking finish) they had to run the barrels thru a process (I forget the technical name) where they actually bonded iron particles to the outside of the barrel. That way the iron/c.m. particles would take the hot bluing finish.
Not sure about Win but it was in the early to mid 60's you will find Remington 700's that they did this to. A old friend of mine that I use to hunt with his dad had a 1962/64 time frame Remington 700 in 7mag. It had a stainless barrel that had that blued type finish.
So your saying I need a Time Machine?
I have noticed that the old 7mm Magnums have Stainlees Steel embossed on the barrels.
Greg
I have noticed that the old 7mm Magnums have Stainlees Steel embossed on the barrels.
Greg
A buddy sent me one place…
www.universalblackoxide.com
In Gastonia, NC
You have to check it out.
Black Oxide Finishing | Universal Black Oxide | United States
Universal Black Oxide has a 34-year-old history steeped in integrity, exceptional product quality, and customer service excellence. We are trusted partners to multiple Fortune 500 companies, Mom-And-Pop shops as well as NASCAR racing teams.
www.universalblackoxide.com
In Gastonia, NC
You have to check it out.
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At what point in the crowning and tenon threading should or shouldn’t the oxiding be done?
Raw blank, or after crown and threading tenon. Does it really matter if the 7.62 NATO is stamped after oxiding? I’m seeing the treatment as more of a dulling of the shine than a protectant since it’s stainless.
I know, a lot of questions, but I’m trying to visualize the build process and order of operations to get to the finished rifle.
Thanks,
Greg
Raw blank, or after crown and threading tenon. Does it really matter if the 7.62 NATO is stamped after oxiding? I’m seeing the treatment as more of a dulling of the shine than a protectant since it’s stainless.
I know, a lot of questions, but I’m trying to visualize the build process and order of operations to get to the finished rifle.
Thanks,
Greg
I used GunBlack Inc. in upstate NY 15 years ago. He did a real nice job on two barreled actions.
Greg, Stainless steel barrels can still corrode/pit. It’s not surgical stainless. So you still have to do maintenance and cleaning of the barrel. Outside and inside.
Being as the black oxide is a finish. My take is this. You want all your machine work done prior to finishing. So thread, chamber muzzle crown and engraving etc…
I would also recommend or ask whomever does the work for you or anyone else to plug the bore / chamber of the barrel etc… that way as little or no solution is going down the bore. When we were at Krieger and having the c.m. Steel service rifle barrels parkerized we made/had plugs that would plug the bores to protect them.
Also when I was at Krieger when a gun mfg came out with they’re line of varmint rifles and the barrels were made by the Criterion side of the shop… ss barrels and the factory were bluing them. They sent us in 3 rifles as they had problems with the bores all pitted and corroded. Accuracy / shooting was the issue. I knew what they did but asked the question… “How did you get the blued finish to take to the ss barrels? The bluing process doesn’t readily take to ss gun barrels. They said, “submersed the barrels in an acid bath for 10 seconds before going to the bluing process. The acid etched the ss material so the bluing process would take. I then asked, “are you plugging the bores?” Answer was no. I said well that’s your issue that’s causing the damage. They figured it cost $1 in labor or something like that to plug the bores so they skipped it. I said well your $1 in labor savings cost you a few hundred dollars in each barrel lost.
Fast forward to a few years ago…. A gun maker I will not mention and another place was pvd coating and nickel plating the cm barrels we made them for the army. Nobody plugged the bores… barrels sat on the floor in the factory on pallets for a x amount of time… guess what happened… yep bores all pitted chambers pitted etc…no one took the time to even run oiled patches or some cleaning solvent down the bores to remove any of the chemicals to protect the bores if I recall correctly.
Again I would ask whoever does the work for you…. Can you plug the bores and or should you be plugging the bores. Can anything happen to the bore of the barrel from the chemicals?
