I’ll be honest, I was turned away from SLA printing when I found out how brittle the materials were and have gotten lost in the world of FDM. Looks like I have some research to do and get my SLA printer fired back up. What resin should I look into?
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I’ll be honest, I was turned away from SLA printing when I found out how brittle the materials were and have gotten lost in the world of FDM. Looks like I have some research to do and get my SLA printer fired back up. What resin should I look into?
Very interesting read! I must say, you have intrigued me and will be giving the SLA Printer a second chance.
I'm going to have to give the parallax nob a trySome of the useful stuff I’ve done with my 3D printer or other DIY:
Pelican 1040 .22 LR ammo insert for Lapua/SK/Wolf racks
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Modified Amazon arca clamp to a 2-bolt attachment
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Ruger BX-1 2 magazine + 200 rds.22 LR Pelican 1060 insert
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Vudoo magazine flag block with Logo
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MDT ACC bag rider
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Vudoo Mag extension
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Tikka T1x Extended Mag release
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100 rd. .22 LR ammo insert for Agency Arms barrel case
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Athlon Ares BTR Parallax Knob Wheel
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CZ 455/457 +3 mag extension
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MDT ACC/Tikka T1x Mag Sleeve
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Here is another article. With the proper paperwork this would be an interesting project.I’ll be honest, I was turned away from SLA printing when I found out how brittle the materials were and have gotten lost in the world of FDM. Looks like I have some research to do and get my SLA printer fired back up. What resin should I look into?
That has to be the best upgrade for the FA. Can't count the times I forgot it was open.Anyone with a Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper will benefit from one of these, it's a replacement powder dump tube tap with a lever to grab hold of and open and closed indicators. You just pop the original off and push this one on. I've uploaded it to Thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4736792
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I've only used it twice and left it open after the first time. Next job is some solid extended feet so I can fit something under it to drain the powder without having to move it and re-level it.That has to be the best upgrade for the FA. Can't count the times I forgot it was open.
Has anyone tested any ar parts besides the lower? For instance; gas block, muzzle brake, hand guard, ect.?
I'm printing a pistol blade stabilizer as I type this for grins. Wondering what other parts people have printed and how long they held up.
Are you printing metal or polymer? Can't imagine a polymer anything that sees pressure or heat (gas block, muzzle brake, etc)Has anyone tested any ar parts besides the lower? For instance; gas block, muzzle brake, hand guard, ect.?
I'm printing a pistol blade stabilizer as I type this for grins. Wondering what other parts people have printed and how long they held up.
What do you mean by cleats? Like claw feet?How about some cleats that fit an atlas bipod?
Unless they were printed in metal I don't think that would hold
Maybe not for people that abuse it. Its not an intricate fragile part. Worth a shot, they want almost $80 for a set.Unless they were printed in metal I don't think that would hold
How much load is it really bearing?It’s not particularly intricate but it is a loadbearing part. 3-D printed plastic will not hold up in that position. Even the nylon and carbon fiber filament mixtures Would have difficulty with the part that was that directly loadbearing bearing
Well, depends on the rifle and the shooting position, but the weight of the rifle and a portion of your body weight.How much load is it really bearing?
I measure these things by the investment in the part in relation to it's inevitable failure. At the end of the day, you'll have 10-15 minutes of design work and $2 worth of polymer into it so why not? The difficulty would be the detent ball, which I would replace with a press fit pin to keep them from rotating.Well, depends on the rifle and the shooting position, but the weight of the rifle and a portion of your body weight.
10 to 15 minutes of design work is... optimistic. But it lasted you more than a day of actual field use, I’d be surprised.I measure these things by the investment in the part in relation to it's inevitable failure. At the end of the day, you'll have 10-15 minutes of design work and $2 worth of polymer into it so why not? The difficulty would be the detent ball, which I would replace with a press fit pin to keep them from rotating.
I can get it to you in a few hours.What's the height and diameter of the internal mounting portion?
10 to 15 minutes is realistic. For people that know what they're doing in CAD it doesn't take long. If I had the necessary dimensions its literally 5 minutes or less...10 to 15 minutes of design work is... optimistic. But it lasted you more than a day of actual field use, I’d be surprised.
Did you ever get this? Thought I could draw an option up.I can get it to you in a few hours.
Yeah, he pm'ed me. .4895 diameter .6 high, .090 detent centered at .4 high is what I have.Did you ever get this? Thought I could draw an option up.
Late to the party but this is the one I use the most. Load it in Fusion360 and customize to whatever you want/need for your specific scope.Anyone print a throw lever for a Vortex? Wonder if it would even be strong enough with out making it really big.
Willing to share the CAD file for the spacers?Wanted to protect the turret caps on this M40A5's S&B. Simple and easy.
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Also Made some stackable cheek piece spacers. This prevents loosing cheek height when the screws eventually come loose and makes cheek height repeatable when you take it off for cleaning.
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Absolutely! I actually have extras. If you want, you can DM me your info and I'll send you what I got. It's 6 stacks and 4 of the thin shims. For reference, I only used 4 stacks and 4 shims. So that should give you over an 1" of cheek rise. If not, I can try to send the file. I've never actually tried to send one of these files. Would that be through email? And would you need the .stl or Gcode file? Either way I'll give it a try.Willing to share the CAD file for the spacers?
Awesome, will send you a PM.Absolutely! I actually have extras. If you want, you can DM me your info and I'll send you what I got. It's 6 stacks and 4 of the thin shims. For reference, I only used 4 stacks and 4 shims. So that should give you over an 1" of cheek rise. If not, I can try to send the file. I've never actually tried to send one of these files. Would that be through email? And would you need the .stl or Gcode file? Either way I'll give it a try.
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