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Gun safe space.
- Thread starter Zoomer41
- Start date
My general rule of thumb is cut the number of guns they advertise it can hold in half to comfortably fit them in there.
Always go bigger if you can
Always go bigger if you can
Agreed get 2-3 times bigger than what you expect
Cut the advertised number in half and you may be close.
Get the absolute biggest you can fit/afford. I have a large safe but I still wish I'd gotten bigger. You can't have one too big.
Well the question is, are Firearms investments for you, or toys, or both. If they are both, I would reccomend looking into a larger solution than a safe.
Used guns safe don't hold value well, and you will outgrow the capacity regardless of how large of a gun safe you order unless you limit your collection to a rule like "everything has to fit in my gun safe".
i run my own fun gun safe space and they have the run of the entire house . After a while It gets a bit hard to remember on which wall or cabinet what's where , but it is always fun finding them here and there . I want to call it free range firearms . To see shotguns roaming in the field look they do move in herds . or you could try a safe door for the entry into the room you ment to keep your firearms in take out a window or two and you turn any room into your very own show room safe space just need lights and a fog maker for dramatic effect when you open the door . harp music or old western music would also be an over the top thought .
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Thanks for the input,it was very helpful. I am planning on more capacity than the guns I have now.I want extra space for documents and valuables.
No matter which safe you get - you will wish it was bigger soon enough.
Gun safes are sized by how many single shot 410's and red ryders will fit. I think the only other way the number is accurate is if you only load it with pistols.
I bought a 24 gun safe. Biggest I could get down my 90 degree turn into my basement. I can hold 6 rifles (manners stocks/ big optics). And two AR’s with out shit rubbing. I could maybe squeeze more, but it’ll be tight.
If you can get a bigger safe in your space, go bigger.
If you can get a bigger safe in your space, go bigger.
height is another under appreciated quality. having space above your long guns is really nice for handguns, documents, high value items like unmounted scopes. another factor is how the safe's space is organized - imo, most of the organization systems from the manufacturer's do not take into account optics or other attachments. do yourself a favor and build your own organization out of 1/2" plywood (or similar). build it to fit your specific needs.
The best thing I've done in my safes is to go to Goodwill store and buy sweat pants and sweat shirts. I cut the arms and legs off to make sleeves out of them to slide over the rifles. Yeah, it's not pretty looking to view in the safe....but that's not an issue for me. The pants allow you to get past scopes. You can pack stuff pretty tight in a safe once you aren't worrying about scratching and scraping stuff. You can use a sharpie to write what's under the pant leg. LOL
Also are you referring to a residential security container or an actual safe? There is a difference and when you compare the two, you realize that most of the safes in stores are for securing costume jewelry and nothing that is actually valuable.
Yeah, I know what I have....
Fire resistant container that's meant to withstand up to 6 minutes of forced entry.
Why not just gun socks? I believe they come preteated to prevent rust. Sweatpants/cotton on guns may not be the best strategy from a rust prevention standpoint
Here is a good thread on the subject of gun safes:
www.snipershide.com
Buying First Safe Need Advice
I currently have a gun cabinet for my guns but I was looking to get something a little more secure. I have one major issue. 1. I am not in my forever home so I really do not want a 1200lb safe that I bolt to the ground (moving in a few years). I was originally looking at liberty but they seem...
www.snipershide.com
It ends up being about a dollar per gun.
Living here in the desert of AZ - and the safes being in an air conditioned space and desiccant packs in each safe, there is no humidity to rust anything.
Everything is dry dry dry.
That's what I found as well my 3 30 gun safes hold between around 15 rifles. In a safe that had a few rifle with ACOG's I was able to fit in 17. Couldn't go bigger since I live in th Phoenix AZ area safe in the Garage was a no go. The big safe I had Prescott AZ where my house was at 6000FT and was bolted to the floor of my garage.
I was in the service before I become a gun owner, I really liked the idea of storing rifles in a single file on a rack so you can take out any single one without much hassle. I got a bunch of secureit lockers and bolted them down to my floor in different rooms, out of sight. If I need to access a firearm, I don't have to walk very far to open a locker from anywhere in my house. The lockers have the storage capacity as stated as compared to most gun safes, unless you got MK19s to store
Dream of every gun that's "pops" into your head, w/o you even thinking about it, plus all the optics you've ever wanted, multiply by 2, and that will put you in the ballpark for what safe you'll need.
No such thing as a cheap safe, if it's cheap, it isn't a safe. Watch this video from this gentleman; I talked to him a number of years ago, and even though he isn't in the same state, he helped me get my last safe. I haven't talked to him lately, I hope he's in good health.
His video is absolutely a MUST b4 you spring any cash for a safe. His video also shows the safes that were easily defeated by thieves and why.
www.bing.com
This is the safe I purchased from the folks he referred me to which sell in my area. It's anchored into the concrete from the inside, and fire rated for 75 minutes.
Additionally, I don't keep my rods all over the house, this habit spilled over from when my youngest set of kids were pretty small. I had a Ruger SP101 357 snub which was my Bar-B-Que/take out the trash/ wash the car/answer the door gun which I've carried on me for so long, it's simply a part of me when I'm home. In my pocket holster nobody knows it's on me.
I've got a "nerve center"/concealed gun chest table in addition to my safe which is in my living area, and it's about the same distance from the rear of the house and the kitchen/front door. On a home invasion I may be "outmanned" but I will never be outgunned.
The chest holds my 2 Rem 870 police pumps, my 2 Vepr 12's which fit in the chest w/5 round mags, and 10 rd. mags at the ready, 3 semi-autos(HK-Beretta) and 3 revolvers(S&W) in the trays.
I always have a canvas tablecloth covering this, and flowers. The flowers are for anybody that breaks into my house.
No such thing as a cheap safe, if it's cheap, it isn't a safe. Watch this video from this gentleman; I talked to him a number of years ago, and even though he isn't in the same state, he helped me get my last safe. I haven't talked to him lately, I hope he's in good health.
His video is absolutely a MUST b4 you spring any cash for a safe. His video also shows the safes that were easily defeated by thieves and why.
gun safe with dehumidifier - Search Videos
This is the safe I purchased from the folks he referred me to which sell in my area. It's anchored into the concrete from the inside, and fire rated for 75 minutes.
Additionally, I don't keep my rods all over the house, this habit spilled over from when my youngest set of kids were pretty small. I had a Ruger SP101 357 snub which was my Bar-B-Que/take out the trash/ wash the car/answer the door gun which I've carried on me for so long, it's simply a part of me when I'm home. In my pocket holster nobody knows it's on me.
I've got a "nerve center"/concealed gun chest table in addition to my safe which is in my living area, and it's about the same distance from the rear of the house and the kitchen/front door. On a home invasion I may be "outmanned" but I will never be outgunned.
The chest holds my 2 Rem 870 police pumps, my 2 Vepr 12's which fit in the chest w/5 round mags, and 10 rd. mags at the ready, 3 semi-autos(HK-Beretta) and 3 revolvers(S&W) in the trays.
I always have a canvas tablecloth covering this, and flowers. The flowers are for anybody that breaks into my house.
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- Nov 3, 2010
- 9,766
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I went for the biggest I could find and wish I would’ve got multiple smaller ones. Easier to move, and easier to sort or find what you want without moving everything in the front to get to the back. That being said, my 84 gun will definitely not hold 84 guns, half of advertised number is probably real close. And forget very many “long” barrels without giving up upper shelf space for the barrel cutout.
I decided to put a list of serial numbers together in case anything were ever to happen.Ya currently looking for another one
"If you know how many guns you have" ...You Dont Have Enough
View attachment 7873542
Somehow looking at the list made me feel like this:
If you have over 60k$ in guns/optics etc my opinion is just buy specific insurance for those guns. it'll cost roughly the same as a true Fort Knox type gun safe to fit all your stuff (2 or 3 safes maybe?) and afford you much more freedom to move guns around in say a 'gun room' with a locking door. My dad went a bit crazy and had a collection of ~400 high end consecutive serial number collector type shotguns about a decade ago and that was the route he went.
Ya currently looking for another one
"If you know how many guns you have" ...You Dont Have Enough
Thinking of Stackon brand or Gettysburg.30 gun safe.Fire rated at 1400° for 75 minutes.I started doing that in the early 2000"s with Serial #'s, also have values listed too
I would suggest both insurance and the right safe/gun room....... repeat BOTH. Regardless of the insurance, it will still be a nightmare for me to have my guns stolen.
My Rem. 870 shotguns in the gun chest were extensive builds from the ground up which took me "forever", ordering/waiting for upgrade grips/rails/adaptors and then assembling a finished build.
Same thing for my Vepr's w/upgraded skeleton stocks/grips/Alfa Arms gas tube and forends/peep sights et al.
My Remington R12's which aren't pictured have the 8 rd. rail/sidesaddle from Mesa Tactical which isn't made anymore, it's gone, so collecting the insurance ins't going to duplicate what I've built up over the years let alone trying to replace upgraded/aftermarket parts that no longer exist.
I don't want to go through this process again, so I'll jump through hoops in addition to the insurance to hold onto the "work n sweat" I've put into these guns along w/the guns themselves.
My Rem. 870 shotguns in the gun chest were extensive builds from the ground up which took me "forever", ordering/waiting for upgrade grips/rails/adaptors and then assembling a finished build.
Same thing for my Vepr's w/upgraded skeleton stocks/grips/Alfa Arms gas tube and forends/peep sights et al.
My Remington R12's which aren't pictured have the 8 rd. rail/sidesaddle from Mesa Tactical which isn't made anymore, it's gone, so collecting the insurance ins't going to duplicate what I've built up over the years let alone trying to replace upgraded/aftermarket parts that no longer exist.
I don't want to go through this process again, so I'll jump through hoops in addition to the insurance to hold onto the "work n sweat" I've put into these guns along w/the guns themselves.
Gun safes (all safes for that matter) are one layer of a security system.
...and insurance is not a layer.
...and insurance is not a layer.
I find that rifles with pistol grips, or optics take more room. Buy a safe that advertisers 3x what you think you need.
I like this guy’s advice.
gunsafereviewsguy.com
TL;DR
Most gun safes:
Gun Safe Buyer's Guide - Gun Safe Reviews Guy
Got 4 minutes? The gun safe buyer's guide will tell you what you need to know so you don't waste your money. Learn about options you may not know about.
gunsafereviewsguy.com
TL;DR
Most gun safes:
- are technically not safes
- can be easily defeated with pry bars or cut-off discs on an angle grinder
- Have bullshit fire ratings. It’s drywall in there yo!
- Bolt your safe down
- Hide your safe
- Read his guides on decent safes for the money and other methods to discourage thieves
- Probably buy gun insurance (this one is my suggestion)
I've got both the guns and insurance......
I'll knock on wood that I never have to collect, I've "jumped thru hoops" to make sure a thief doesn't have a chance to fondle my guns.
Why should he be happy?
I'll knock on wood that I never have to collect, I've "jumped thru hoops" to make sure a thief doesn't have a chance to fondle my guns.
Why should he be happy?
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Rile Rods are your friend when you want to get maximum space utilization.
Amazon product ASIN B071CVZXSZ
I have a tall and wide safe that's pretty good. But it's one layer of security. I have an alarm system too..... but the best layer of security is to have a large dog. It's a proven fact that thieves leave houses alone that have dogs, especially big dogs. A true 150 lb dog will keep just about anyone out.
Attachments
I've got both the guns and insurance......
I'll knock on wood that I never have to collect, I've "jumped thru hoops" to make sure a thief doesn't have a chance to fondle my guns.
Why should he be happy?
GP100?
Gun safe makes a shit safe. Every Single one of them, AND most above the $4K mark can be ripped open in less than 5 minutes with an $40 angle grinder and a $20 prybar.
If you are going to spend the money on a gucci safe that has both real fire protection and real security, get ready to spend some money.
AMSEC BF series is the absolute minimum and I would do it with a 4ga liner.
Insurance is WAY more important than a gun safe.
Dream of every gun that's "pops" into your head, w/o you even thinking about it, plus all the optics you've ever wanted, multiply by 2, and that will put you in the ballpark for what safe you'll need.
No such thing as a cheap safe, if it's cheap, it isn't a safe. Watch this video from this gentleman; I talked to him a number of years ago, and even though he isn't in the same state, he helped me get my last safe. I haven't talked to him lately, I hope he's in good health.
His video is absolutely a MUST b4 you spring any cash for a safe. His video also shows the safes that were easily defeated by thieves and why.
gun safe with dehumidifier - Search Videos
This is the safe I purchased from the folks he referred me to which sell in my area. It's anchored into the concrete from the inside, and fire rated for 75 minutes.
Additionally, I don't keep my rods all over the house, this habit spilled over from when my youngest set of kids were pretty small. I had a Ruger SP101 357 snub which was my Bar-B-Que/take out the trash/ wash the car/answer the door gun which I've carried on me for so long, it's simply a part of me when I'm home. In my pocket holster nobody knows it's on me.
I've got a "nerve center"/concealed gun chest table in addition to my safe which is in my living area, and it's about the same distance from the rear of the house and the kitchen/front door. On a home invasion I may be "outmanned" but I will never be outgunned.
The chest holds my 2 Rem 870 police pumps, my 2 Vepr 12's which fit in the chest w/5 round mags, and 10 rd. mags at the ready, 3 semi-autos(HK-Beretta) and 3 revolvers(S&W) in the trays.
I always have a canvas tablecloth covering this, and flowers. The flowers are for anybody that breaks into my house.
I would actually beg to differ on if a cheap safe is considered a safe. Unless youre spending 100k plus on a safe. Is whats inside really safe. Is that fort knox going to last any longer agaisnt a torch or someone that knows what theyre doing. Answer is no. The safes we all buy are to keep kids and your typical meth head robber out. If someone targeted your safe theyd be in, in a matter of minutes. Not trying to start a argument but i think the point of view i bring up is quite logical
Just build one into your house... 'L' shaped walk-in closets are a prime candidate... Just frame the Left turn (or right turn) part up with metal studs...so that the wall just continues on. Get some 5/16 AR 700...panel it up, and get a prefab safe door... Inside, you would rip out the sheetrock on all three walls and ceiling; and install two layers of 1" moisture rated fire rock... You can put up additional metal paneling on the back side of the new wall/door way you just built. ....and put fire resistant insulation in there .... Leave an outlet in there to utilize a dehumidifier...
But keep in mind, a dehumidifier will put out a lot of heat, which isn't necessarily that good for Optics.
This will be expensive.
But you can do it.
Build it, and they will come.
...but they won't get any thing. Haha.
Sound the Charge.
But keep in mind, a dehumidifier will put out a lot of heat, which isn't necessarily that good for Optics.
This will be expensive.
But you can do it.
Build it, and they will come.
...but they won't get any thing. Haha.
Sound the Charge.
That sounds a tad low but not crazy low. Wondering if thats good or bad?
60k$ value @ 1% = 600$/yr = 20yr breakeven to 12k$ (~2 Fort Knox's? give or take?)
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I wouldn't think anything built on ground level or above is ever safe from just being yanked by a truck and chain....but in a basement...if you build your doorways right...going to be damn hard to get that safe open and/or out without alerting a normal run of the mill RING alarm system or neighbors for that matter. And idk many skilled thieves that target guns as their 'prize' like an Oceans Eleven gang....So Graffunder or Fort Knox with extra plates is about as good as you'll get. You can add tungsten shell and titanium outer layers along with a thicker steel for heat dissipation and sturdiness from pry bars for not too much money.
But I still would do a simple gun room door for the kids or 'meth heads' and a RING motion detector. with insurance. and have no issue going on vacation. But thats me.
"I would actually beg to differ on if a cheap safe is considered a safe. Unless youre spending 100k plus on a safe. Is whats inside really safe. Is that fort knox going to last any longer agaisnt a torch or someone that knows what theyre doing. Answer is no. The safes we all buy are to keep kids and your typical meth head robber out. If someone targeted your safe theyd be in, in a matter of minutes. Not trying to start a argument but i think the point of view i bring up is quite logical".....
This venue is for a dialogue/discussion and your right to disagree whenever you want to disagree for whatever reason.
I consider myself lucky to have hooked up w/Curt of CE Safes, whose business after he was in law enforcement is safes. Watch the link to his video, he's gone over a lot of what's being commented on in this discussion.
In the video, he shows safes that were easily broken into, and a safe that thieves worked on for 2 hours that they couldn't break into. Finding this video several years ago, prompted me to have several discussions with Curt whose a guy partial to gunowners and law enforcement, and he won't stop talking to you until he's satisfied that you understand the bottom line for what you need.
With all due respect, watch the video, and if you don't want to watch it, that's fine too, but I consider Curt the expert in his profession and I'll go by his advice.
In any "give and take" discussion I believe in the bottom line, which is "don't tell me show me", that's what the video does. I'm not the expert, he is, and I'll go by his advice which is reflected in the video, and w/specifics like wall to door thickness/heat dissipation/the type of welding/the different tools used to defeat a safe et al. The specifics count w/me and he goes into them.
As "TheOtherAndrew" suggests just above this, Curt per the video can add steel plates/custom beef up a safe to any degree you want and because of who he is, he'll do it for a reasonable amount of money.
This venue is for a dialogue/discussion and your right to disagree whenever you want to disagree for whatever reason.
I consider myself lucky to have hooked up w/Curt of CE Safes, whose business after he was in law enforcement is safes. Watch the link to his video, he's gone over a lot of what's being commented on in this discussion.
In the video, he shows safes that were easily broken into, and a safe that thieves worked on for 2 hours that they couldn't break into. Finding this video several years ago, prompted me to have several discussions with Curt whose a guy partial to gunowners and law enforcement, and he won't stop talking to you until he's satisfied that you understand the bottom line for what you need.
With all due respect, watch the video, and if you don't want to watch it, that's fine too, but I consider Curt the expert in his profession and I'll go by his advice.
In any "give and take" discussion I believe in the bottom line, which is "don't tell me show me", that's what the video does. I'm not the expert, he is, and I'll go by his advice which is reflected in the video, and w/specifics like wall to door thickness/heat dissipation/the type of welding/the different tools used to defeat a safe et al. The specifics count w/me and he goes into them.
As "TheOtherAndrew" suggests just above this, Curt per the video can add steel plates/custom beef up a safe to any degree you want and because of who he is, he'll do it for a reasonable amount of money.
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No one is going to torch a safe unless they are an idiot and want to destroy whats inside.
Have to use some brain power here.
You can get a TL30 6x6 Safe for $10K and unless you are a proffesional safe cracker/thief, you aren't getting in there in any reasonable time without destroying everything.
A safe is not a replacement for insurance. Its a supplement. Even the best fire safes in the world will not protect from a pile of debris smoldering on it for days. Fire protection with virtually all safes is not enough to protect the contents. The ratings are a joke and there is no standard.
So you are looking at security resistance (can be done with layers....safe, cameras, alarms) and storage/organization with a Safe.
Insurance should be the first thing anyone spends money on, Then a safe be it a shitbox or a real safe.
Did you watch the video? Mentioning the torch issue doesn't dismiss/sum up how much Curt goes into, he covers quite a bit.
The video is comprehensive and involved and touching on quite a bit of issues and speaks for itself, and what an idiot will or won't do when he breaks into a house is the whole reason for having a safe. Curt does touch on the issue of what thieves typically bring to a house.
I consider EVERY thief who breaks into a house to be an IDIOT. If he/she had the discipline/tenacity/determination/integrity it takes to make something of themselves they wouldn't have to resort to robbery.
I'll take the advice of an expert whose business is safes (and security); it's as simple as that, and that would be my suggestion to the OP.
I'm happy w/the Fort Knox, and if I were to get another safe it would be another Fort Knox and I'd have Curt add steel plates if that's what I wanted, or I'd purchase the other high end safe in the video which starts out with 1 inch steel plating all the way around.
I don't think anyone disagrees w/you about having several layers of security, this just happens to be the OP asking for suggestions about specific safes.
BTW: For the folks who didn't watch the video for whatever reason, Curt is interviewed in his warehouse which is full of safes, from Chinese to American made, from inexpensive to high end, and he walks from safe to safe discussing how folks in the last few years/many manufacturers (mainly the Chinese who make safes w/American sounding names) have made a push for price points as he shows you examples of safes that are the same price but differ as to door/wall thickness.
Translation, one safe makes the manufacturers more money, the other safe is a tougher safe even though they're the SAME PRICE.
He tells you the exact thickness and amount of steel in the safes he discusses and how advertising is used to try to fool you into thinking there's more metal in the door of a safe than there really is.
He then walks into another part of his warehouse w/safes that've been attacked as he discusses each safe and why the thieves could/couldn't get in. and the heat dissipation issue/steel vs stainless steel. His business will also modify/beef up a safe any way you want.
The guy has the integrity to stand there and point out which of his safes are the better safes and why, and after quite a bit of due diligence/endless calls to folks who'll lie/bullshit you over the phone, his straight talk was refreshing.
The video is comprehensive and involved and touching on quite a bit of issues and speaks for itself, and what an idiot will or won't do when he breaks into a house is the whole reason for having a safe. Curt does touch on the issue of what thieves typically bring to a house.
I consider EVERY thief who breaks into a house to be an IDIOT. If he/she had the discipline/tenacity/determination/integrity it takes to make something of themselves they wouldn't have to resort to robbery.
I'll take the advice of an expert whose business is safes (and security); it's as simple as that, and that would be my suggestion to the OP.
I'm happy w/the Fort Knox, and if I were to get another safe it would be another Fort Knox and I'd have Curt add steel plates if that's what I wanted, or I'd purchase the other high end safe in the video which starts out with 1 inch steel plating all the way around.
I don't think anyone disagrees w/you about having several layers of security, this just happens to be the OP asking for suggestions about specific safes.
BTW: For the folks who didn't watch the video for whatever reason, Curt is interviewed in his warehouse which is full of safes, from Chinese to American made, from inexpensive to high end, and he walks from safe to safe discussing how folks in the last few years/many manufacturers (mainly the Chinese who make safes w/American sounding names) have made a push for price points as he shows you examples of safes that are the same price but differ as to door/wall thickness.
Translation, one safe makes the manufacturers more money, the other safe is a tougher safe even though they're the SAME PRICE.
He tells you the exact thickness and amount of steel in the safes he discusses and how advertising is used to try to fool you into thinking there's more metal in the door of a safe than there really is.
He then walks into another part of his warehouse w/safes that've been attacked as he discusses each safe and why the thieves could/couldn't get in. and the heat dissipation issue/steel vs stainless steel. His business will also modify/beef up a safe any way you want.
The guy has the integrity to stand there and point out which of his safes are the better safes and why, and after quite a bit of due diligence/endless calls to folks who'll lie/bullshit you over the phone, his straight talk was refreshing.
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Don't make the mistake of thinking the fire rating means anything. Most fires result in totalled guns and missing papers that were in the safe.
You want a second safe that's securely fastened to the house in as hidden a spot as you can get for documents and other crap. Gun safes are an instant target if they're spotted.
I think my favorite was the guy who had half his house destroyed when they hooked a wrecker up to his safe and drove away pulling it through the house. Did many more $$$ in damage than the handful of guns were worth. All because his safe was visible through a back window.
Lots of good points in this thread. I have combined many but they can all be dealt with by someone who wants in. I have my safes hidden and bolted down in a closet so they can’t be hauled off, a big dog, I live between two nosey widowers and if I’m home, I’m armed. I also work a lot, everything needed to cut em open is in my garage, at least one of my neighbors is usually stoned, and my dog could be easily distracted with the contents of my fridge. That’s why I also have my collection insured. Eastern Insurance is great to deal with and specializes in firearms coverage. I happily pay about .7% of the collection value per year. Yeah I’d hate to lose my guns, some are irreplaceable. If someone happens though, I’ll be able to buy everything I really need.
There are no guarantees in life, or w/safes. You come up w/a well thought out plan which I know you'll do/you've already done.
Anybody can get burned, but you take your best shot, by listening to qualified people who know what they're talking about, take it all in, and then think about it, and then think some more about it.
I've almost always ended up "ahead of the game" by waiting/taking my time, when making a significant purchase of anything.
Due diligence until you've got the tools to work with is going save a lot of heartache but I've got a feeling you already know that.
MOST IMPORTANT........What's the name of that great looking dog???
Anybody can get burned, but you take your best shot, by listening to qualified people who know what they're talking about, take it all in, and then think about it, and then think some more about it.
I've almost always ended up "ahead of the game" by waiting/taking my time, when making a significant purchase of anything.
Due diligence until you've got the tools to work with is going save a lot of heartache but I've got a feeling you already know that.
MOST IMPORTANT........What's the name of that great looking dog???
