Gunsmithing Guns in a Fire

Trapshooter12

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May 26, 2009
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A guy at work had his house catch on fire Monday. He says the Guns were three rooms away from the fire and most everything has smoke damage.
He said the Barrels on all of his Guns rusted afterwords. He said the Bores all look good. Is there any concerns or a reason why the Barrles rusted?
 
A guy at work had his house catch on fire Monday. He says the Guns were three rooms away from the fire and most everything has smoke damage.
He said the Barrels on all of his Guns rusted afterwords. He said the Bores all look good. Is there any concerns or a reason why the Barrles rusted?

The smoke has acids in it. Throw a little steam on it from the firefighters and you have a corrosion factory.
 
A guy at work had his house catch on fire Monday. He says the Guns were three rooms away from the fire and most everything has smoke damage.
He said the Barrels on all of his Guns rusted afterwords. He said the Bores all look good. Is there any concerns or a reason why the Barrles rusted?

I had a catastrophic house fire and explosion fueled by a propane gas leak 2 years ago. The fire got my rifles and handguns hot, and then the Fire Department's mist nozzles trying to put it out caused them to flash rust. Not heavy rust, just an overall fine rust that had to be removed. In some cases, it did not even mar the blue ( although in others, it caused "spots" of missing bluing ). He's right, though, the smoke damage was the worst and hardest to remove and fix. I think my heavy smoke damage was caused by burning fiberglass insulation and other plastic type materials. It was ugly.

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dang...my condolences to your buddy. I'm a Firefighter and not much is safe in a fire where multiple rooms are going at once......many things going on..Chemicals burning, much water being sprayed, thick smoke & other byproducts of the fire that goes everywhere...I would agree with the above posters that the smoke played a part in the guns rusting.
 
Create your own 'Firebox'. At least two layers of 5/8" X rated drywall per side/wall, and put your toys inside. This will provide minimum 2 hours of fire protection. If the fire is not out in two hours, then your valuables are trash.
 
My Brother's home went through that years ago. The bluing was crapped and the stocks got some surface char. He sanded, rechecked, and refinished the stocks, bought an entire Oxpho Blue hot bluing setup and redid the metal. The rifles outlived him, and my other Brother and our kids still shoot them.

Fire can be destructive, but a lot of that destruction can be simply cosmetic. This is only one anecdotal example, and caution should be your first consideration. By all means, hot handloads should be permanently removed from those firearms' menus.

It was that example that turned me off on fire protective safes. Too unwieldy, too expensive, and too small inside to justify that expense.'

My preference is for a "fire-room". A decent sized closet, with multiple layers of drywall (don't forget the floor and ceiling), with steel gun cabinets inside for access protection, makes a better approach IMHO. I have often heard that those pricey gun safes have drywall inside their shells as their primary means of heat-proofing, anyway.

Greg
 
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