Guys…I messed up…

[Reformedcitykid]

I’m trying to remove the factory 0 MOA rail on my Tikka T3x CTR to replace with a 20 MOA rail, and apparently this is an impossible feat. I got 2 screws out and the rest of the goddamn things will not budge. I’ve used PB blaster, an extractor, and a heat gun to no avail. The heat gun is where the issue might be… True to form and in moronic fashion, I forgot to remove the bolt before heating… I pulled it out and noticed some of the finish came off. Oh, and I began to melt part of the plastic stock around the barrel.

So, I ask this of you all, how bad is it?? The melted plastic is cosmetic, but what about the bolt… Come take pity on this poor dumb idiot and offer words of encouragement, advice, mocking, insult, or some combination of the above.

 

[FuhQ]

Try soaking them in angel piss (Kroil) overnight. It should penetrate enough if there's any rust that has them bound.

Worst case scenario is your last ditch effort... Get your drill and some sharp Ti bits and slowly drill the heads out down to the stem where the rail will pop off. Then the rail will come off, use a pair of vise-grips to clamp on the screw stud sticking out, and remove it from the bolt hole. Then clean everything up, use a brush and Kroil and clean up the holes. Then wipe it all down, and reinstall the new rail with proper torque specs and some vibra-tite VC-3 on the screws to keep them from backing out.

 

[Reformedcitykid]

Try soaking them in angel piss (Kroil) overnight. It should penetrate enough if there's any rust that has them bound.

Worst case scenario is your last ditch effort... Get your drill and some sharp Ti bits and slowly drill the heads out down to the stem where the rail will pop off. Then the rail will come off, use a pair of vise-grips to clamp on the screw stud sticking out, and remove it from the bolt hole. Then clean everything up, use a brush and Kroil and clean up the holes. Then wipe it all down, and reinstall the new rail with proper torque specs and some vibra-tite VC-3 on the screws to keep them from backing out.

My guy…yet again coming through with some great suggestions to save my hide. If I ever make it down to wherever it is that you’re at, I owe you more than a few cold ones!

 

[FuhQ]

My guy…yet again coming through with some great suggestions to save my hide. If I ever make it down to wherever it is that you’re at, I owe you more than a few cold ones!

I MIGHT have had to do this once or twice before. Also, if you don’t have a set, get a Fix-it-Sticks torque wrench set. They’re worth the money.

 

[Baron23]

The Kroil is always a good suggestion. And it and a heat gun (with delicate shit not in the way, right? Haha) is also very helpful.

But also consider getting an impact driver.

impact screw driver - Google Search

www.google.com

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Dude... Stop what you are doing and take that rifle to somebody who knows what they're doing if you don't want to be buying a whole new rifle. If you don't know to pull the plastic parts before starting to heat shit up then you shouldn't be doing that. After those screws come out the rail is held on with adhesive too which is a process as well.

 

[Pvt.Donut]

The bolt finish wears off in those spots anyway. Doubtful you got it hot enough to mess up any heat treat, just might look ugly.

The Tikka base is usually threadlocked in place. It also uses small pins, 2 of 3 of them if I recall. It being so well locked down is the reason I went with a 20 MOA mount and left the rail in place.

Some heat should help loosen the threadlocker or whatever they use. Can also try a plastic or rubber mallet and tap the base UPWARDS to try and pull it from the receiver. Remember, even with the screws removed there are a couple pins in the base, so tap upwards. You can also use the Mirage band screw to sort of pry the rail up. Screw a screw into that front most hole on the base and it will bottom out on the reciever and apply some upwards pressure.

 

[ALShooter]

Butane mini torch to put focused direct heat on the screws one at a time. You want to heat the screw as quick as possible while reducing transfer.

 

[Reformedcitykid]

Dude... Stop what you are doing and take that rifle to somebody who knows what they're doing if you don't want to be buying a whole new rifle. If you don't know to pull the plastic parts before starting to heat shit up then you shouldn't be doing that. After those screws come out the rail is held on with adhesive too which is a process as well.

It’s ok dude, I’m a professional

 

[Reformedcitykid]

I MIGHT have had to do this once or twice before. Also, if you don’t have a set, get a Fix-it-Sticks torque wrench set. They’re worth the money.

Haha glad to know I’m not alone. Seems like this is a common issue. I can’t imagine what would compel Tikka to epoxy a commonly replaced part onto a commonly modified platform…

I’ve looked at those, not in the budget at this time but definitely something I would like to have at some point!

 

[Reformedcitykid]

The Kroil is always a good suggestion. And it and a heat gun (with delicate shit not in the way, right? Haha) is also very helpful.

But also consider getting an impact driver.

impact screw driver - Google Search

www.google.com

Have one, didn’t budge it. This ain’t my first time with tough screws, hence having all the normal tools for it. But these ones…

 

[Reformedcitykid]

The bolt finish wears off in those spots anyway. Doubtful you got it hot enough to mess up any heat treat, just might look ugly.

The Tikka base is usually threadlocked in place. It also uses small pins, 2 of 3 of them if I recall. It being so well locked down is the reason I went with a 20 MOA mount and left the rail in place.

Some heat should help loosen the threadlocker or whatever they use. Can also try a plastic or rubber mallet and tap the base UPWARDS to try and pull it from the receiver. Remember, even with the screws removed there are a couple pins in the base, so tap upwards. You can also use the Mirage band screw to sort of pry the rail up. Screw a screw into that front most hole on the base and it will bottom out on the reciever and apply some upwards pressure.

Good to know, thank you. I saw a bunch of mentions of upward force on various threads and forums but no explanation of the pins. Makes sense, thanks!

 

[Reformedcitykid]

Butane mini torch to put focused direct heat on the screws one at a time. You want to heat the screw as quick as possible while reducing transfer.

Good idea! I have a regular torch, didn’t want to use it because I figured the size of the flame would damage the rest of it. Didn’t think of a mini torch, I’ll pick one up!

 

[Threadcutter308]

If you are confident that the screws have had threadlocker applied (and they aren't simply rusted in place), you can use a small soldering iron with a small amount of solder on it and place the tip of the iron on the screw heads. Carefully place the tip towards the edge of the head so as to not get solder into the recess where a screwdriver/wrench would go.

The soldering iron trick localizes heat much better than a heat gun or torch.

You might even soak it in Kroil overnight, as suggested above. This, prior to the soldering iron treatment.

 

[carbonbased]

I had to use oxy acetylene on this here sum’ bitch pic rail

 

[Brym427]

View attachment 8162470

I had to use oxy acetylene on this here sum’ bitch pic rail

He needs to get the oxylance out first to get the bolts out

 

[MarinePMI]

If you are confident that the screws have had threadlocker applied (and they aren't simply rusted in place), you can use a small soldering iron with a small amount of solder on it and place the tip of the iron on the screw heads. Carefully place the tip towards the edge of the head so as to not get solder into the recess where a screwdriver/wrench would go.

The soldering iron trick localizes heat much better than a heat gun or torch.

You might even soak it in Kroil overnight, as suggested above. This, prior to the soldering iron treatment.

This ^^^^

Same method to remove the old AR buffer tube screw for the traditional buttstock'ed AR. Works every time...

 

[redneckbmxer24]

View attachment 8162470

I had to use oxy acetylene on this here sum’ bitch pic rail

It's not tight if it's liquid.

 

[Haney]

 

[supercorndogs]

Haha glad to know I’m not alone. Seems like this is a common issue. I can’t imagine what would compel Tikka to epoxy a commonly replaced part onto a commonly modified platform…

I’ve looked at those, not in the budget at this time but definitely something I would like to have at some point!

Because it eliminates problems on their end.

 

[Slides]

Acetone on the thread locking/mounting compound will make it brittle and pop off easier.



Compound is a good thing, when not used, especially where there was assembly oil on an action,rails work lose. The only thing I don't understand is why if buying one you would only go to a 20MOA rail, that puts you close to centre at 100 yards, why not 30 or 40 for best light transmission at ranges that matter?

 

[Jscb1b]

Did you get it? I had a rail on a r700 that 2 of the torx heads striped out. I drilled the heads off then popped the rail off. Vise grips rounded what was left of the screws. I got some small flange nuts and tacked them on with the flange up to give more area to weld to. The heat of the welding and more area to grab onto worked for me.

 

[Paqueo]

mine came out fairly easy despite beig glued previously.
Remove stock and bolt aply heat with a propane torch and pull it strait up
Original rail has 4 screws and 2 pins like photo of mine after removing

 

[roostercogburn98]

It’s a Tikka, can’t he just throw it away and start over?