Just got my gun back from being rebarreled. It's a remington E series long action. It's been trued and a cut rifled barrel put on. Without the trigger on, the bolt slides in the action and cams into battery without a catch at the top of the down stroke. However, when I put the trigger on the catch starts and does it every time. I run the bolt into the action, start to turn the handle down and it will move a few thousandths then there is a catch, I can keep pressing down and it will go all the way down as normal. I have checked the bolt nose, back and front of the lugs, and every where else looking for galling but can't see any. I did a barrel break in and short load development and it shoots in the .3's already so it's not effecting accuracy it seems. I have tried 3 different triggers and it does it on all of them. Any ideas? The catch is bad enough that I can't cycle the gun quickly and this is a hunting gun so I'd like to get it fixed. Also, if I hold the trigger down and cycle the action it does not have the catch either. I was told the firing pin/cocking mechanism is out of time. Would getting a ptg firing pin/shroud/cocking piece fix the problem or does it need to be sent off somewhere. If so, Where? I don't know if it did this before the truing and rebarreling because I just bougt an old beater to use for the action.
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Gunsmithing Hard Cocking rifle? Please help
- Thread starter jsthntn247
- Start date
It sounds like it has some cocking on close. Meaning the cocking piece on the back of the firing pin is picking up on the trigger sear a little early. The bolt is pulling forward on the closing cams in the front of the action thus giving the firing pin more fall (or more cocking). Jon Beanland is good at timing the cocking piece to the trigger and should be able to tune it up. I would give him a call.
Cock on close is not a bad thing it just gives the firing pin more distance to fall. If you are working a bolt quickly pushing forward and down you don't notice the catch much at all. If you shoot off a bench and are just closing it with a downward motion it would be very annoying. That's one reason why bench rest shooters have trigger hangers that allow the trigger to be positioned either farther forward or back to get the timing just right as to not rock the rifle on the bench.
Cock on close is not a bad thing it just gives the firing pin more distance to fall. If you are working a bolt quickly pushing forward and down you don't notice the catch much at all. If you shoot off a bench and are just closing it with a downward motion it would be very annoying. That's one reason why bench rest shooters have trigger hangers that allow the trigger to be positioned either farther forward or back to get the timing just right as to not rock the rifle on the bench.
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Listen to this man, his answer is about as good as it gets. I'll add: If the pin fall is in the range Remington designed it to have it will have some cock on close, maybe not as much as yours may have but it will have some.
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It is very annoying. I have to grab the handle with my thumb and the bottom of the stock with my hand and mash down on it to get it over the hitch. It does not matter if I push it forward hard or not, it's still there every time. Would changing the trigger parts out fix the issue? I called and emailed gre-tan rifles yesterday, havn't heard back yet.
Betting your detent on the cockrings cam is a smidge deep. What your likely feeling is the resistance of overcoming the bump.
All remington M700s with factory fire controls are partial cock on open/partial cock on close. Meaning the cocking piece purchases the sear prior to the lugs purchasing the lug abutments. As a result the striker spring is compressed further as the bolt body moves ahead up the clearance ramps and onto the lug abutments.
You could file on that bump and reduce the pressure needed to overcome it bit be warned. It's real easy to go too far. That bump is a safety measure as its the only thing preventing the shroud from rotating and dropping the striker at full extraction. That'd suck if you were being charged by a cape buffalo.
-this is why most African guide services require an action like a P64 or Mauser. It's mechanically locked till your about to go into battery.
All remington M700s with factory fire controls are partial cock on open/partial cock on close. Meaning the cocking piece purchases the sear prior to the lugs purchasing the lug abutments. As a result the striker spring is compressed further as the bolt body moves ahead up the clearance ramps and onto the lug abutments.
You could file on that bump and reduce the pressure needed to overcome it bit be warned. It's real easy to go too far. That bump is a safety measure as its the only thing preventing the shroud from rotating and dropping the striker at full extraction. That'd suck if you were being charged by a cape buffalo.
-this is why most African guide services require an action like a P64 or Mauser. It's mechanically locked till your about to go into battery.
Does the bolt come back out if you push it forward and not close it (not all the way back out, just the distance you feel the pressure? Just want to make sure its actually spring pressure youre feeling and not a tight counterbore.
You are feeling the firing pin spring. When the cocking piece/firing pin is being held back by the trigger sear any forward movement of the bolt compresses the firing pin spring. This is the same compression that would happen if the bolt was closed and pulled forward or up the closing cams in the front of the action (cock on close).
Knock the bump down that Chad talked about, grease the shroud threads, polish the end of the cocking piece and the cocking ramp on the bolt. Most Remmys have more cock on close than what is needed. I do the previous plus time the cocking piece to only have .010" cock on close handoff with the sear bar. I also lap the cocking piece to the bolt cocking ramp.
.200" or better firing pin travel is plenty even in frigid temperatures. Stay with a steel firing pin too.
All of this will make it cycle like a different rifle. There are some other mods that I do to the firing pin, spring and shroud, but I'm not going to tell all
The last two Remington 700's that I did all the mods to cocked and closed just as nice, as the numerous customs that I have in the shop. About an hours worth of work for all of it, but makes a huge difference.
.200" or better firing pin travel is plenty even in frigid temperatures. Stay with a steel firing pin too.
All of this will make it cycle like a different rifle. There are some other mods that I do to the firing pin, spring and shroud, but I'm not going to tell all
The last two Remington 700's that I did all the mods to cocked and closed just as nice, as the numerous customs that I have in the shop. About an hours worth of work for all of it, but makes a huge difference.
