I’m using a FL sizing die from Harrels with a .268 bushing for a bout 3 years. It’s always left a slight bulge at the bottom of the neck from where it doesn’t get sized down to the neck shoulder area. Anyone else having this same outcome?
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I have a 22br that I’m using the same die with a 244 bushing. I’m having to bump the shoulders back 5thou to get a nice easy bolt close. If I take a sized case that gives me some resistance on the bolt close and use just the neck bushing and tap the bushing down the neck of the case then rechamber that same case the bolt has no resistance.Redding dies do the same. There are dies that use different bushings that go the whole way down and bump the shoulder.
What is your concern with the way it sizes now? Is there concentricity issues? Have you reversed the bushing in the die to see if it changes anything? What brand of bushing do you use? Don't necessarily need to answer questions, just something to think about.I have a 22br that I’m using the same die with a 244 bushing. I’m having to bump the shoulders back 5thou to get a nice easy bolt close. If I take a sized case that gives me some resistance on the bolt close and use just the neck bushing and tap the bushing down the neck of the case then rechamber that same case the bolt has no resistance.
Which dies size the whole neck?
I have used Redding and Hornady bushing, both with the same outcome. I would rather not have to bump the shoulders 5-6thou to have the bushing push further down the neck. I don’t like the inconsistent bolt closures. Definitely don’t have want tap the bushing down the neck on each one. I have a Redding non bushing on the way.What is your concern with the way it sizes now? Is there concentricity issues? Have you reversed the bushing in the die to see if it changes anything? What brand of bushing do you use? Don't necessarily need to answer questions, just something to think about.
In order to get sized all the way to the shoulder may require a non-bushing die. If you have a brand of brass you buy all the time you can hone out a non-bushing die to whatever amount of sizing you want done, and then open up with mandrels to desired neck tension.
I have a Harrells 6BRA die that gets regular use for one of my comp rifles. My necks near the shoulder look similar to yours other than a different shoulder angle. Other comp rifles have non-bushing dies because of the way I neck turn the brass.
Cheers
I was ordering a custom die for a .284 through Whidden about 7 years ago. John and I discussed dies for a while, and found out he used non-bushing dies for his competition rifles. It changed my way of ordering new dies for most situations.That’s usually the solution, buy a non-bushing f/l die.
I hear you, but if you measured the cartridge shoulder and know it's good (headspace-.002") then you know it's good...That extra .006" is only going to result in a case failure. I currently use the same dies and that slight "false shoulder" at the neck is no issue.I would rather not have to bump the shoulders 5-6thou to have the bushing push further down the neck. I don’t like the inconsistent bolt closures.
not a donut, it is the nature of bushing dies and it is not a bad thing unless it causes an issue in your chamberlike the OP, it itself is not an issue.Is this considered to be a donut that will need to be turned down? Is the bulge/donut a function of all bushing dies, or is it specific to the brand or bushing size.
Thanks!not a donut, it is the nature of bushing dies and it is not a bad thing unless it causes an issue in your chamberlike the OP, it itself is not an issue.