Having a friction issue with my bolt, help?

[the once-ler]

I have a really sweet customized rifle built off of a tricked out Rem 700 SA with a hand bround PTG bolt. The bolt body is polished stainless just as it came from PTG. The bolt lift is smooth as silk but when I have the bolt fully open + retracted and I go to close it I get a little resistance sometimes when cycling quickly. Now I know the bolt isn't binding it's just the surface of the bolt body feels like it doesn't have enough lubricity.. if that makes any sense. I was thinking about having it glass beaded or maybe NiB coated. Looking at most other bolts including a stock bolt and they all have rough or coated surfaces that allow them to slide easier.
Any ideas??

 

[Ultraman550]

Put the bolt to the side and clean your action first. If there's any type of sand, dirt or metal shavings get rid of that first.

 

[chribon]

I had the same problem with a PTG Bolt. For me it turns out the tight fit in the action caused a little binding. Due to the longer length of the bolt handle, and possibly because it is straight, when just a little resistance occurred, pushing on the bolt handle created sideways leverage and bound it up. I could tell because it operated perfectly when I pushed it from directly behind (on the shroud). It was smooth as silk. I completely solved the problem by putting the bolt in my lathe and turning it with some emery cloth. It is seriously a 2 minute process that anyone you know with a lathe could do for you. I used emery cloth because I didn't want to reduce the diameter any appreciable amount. It did remove just enough metal to clear it up, while still maintaining a nice tight fit. Love the bolt. Hope this helps.

 

[roggom]

For clarification, are you saying that you have lug/race friction as you slide the bolt home? If so you can get a race/recess cleaning tool from Sinclair.



TECH TIP: Clean Your Chamber and Lug Recesses « Daily Bulletin


It has sponges specifically designed to clean the races/recess. Also if you built off a generic SPS or ADL rifle, the finish was inherently gritty. The fact will be compounded as the PTG bolt has a tighter tolerance.

The good news is it will get significantly better the more you cycle the bolt. Just keep the races clean and lubed.

I use TetraGun grease on the lugs and cocking area, and light oil on the bolt body. Just remember that grease will collect particulates, so if shooting outside in the wind and dust it will get crunchy.

Now if you are getting binding as you close the bolt, make sure the action screws are not touching the lugs. The action screw hole is just below the lugs, sometimes changing a stock will allow the action screw to move closer and touch the lug. You can look for a thin line lateral across the lug. Filing down the screw a bit will solve that issue.

Other than that, get some dry fire practice and break in that bolt.

 

[Ljutic SS]

I have a really sweet customized rifle built off of a tricked out Rem 700 SA with a hand bround PTG bolt. The bolt body is polished stainless just as it came from PTG. The bolt lift is smooth as silk but when I have the bolt fully open + retracted and I go to close it I get a little resistance sometimes when cycling quickly. Now I know the bolt isn't binding it's just the surface of the bolt body feels like it doesn't have enough lubricity.. if that makes any sense. I was thinking about having it glass beaded or maybe NiB coated. Looking at most other bolts including a stock bolt and they all have rough or coated surfaces that allow them to slide easier.
Any ideas??

Are you sure your PTG bolt is stainless? As far as I know PTG bolts are made from 4350

 

[Phezzik]

I did a custom build for a customer that included a fluted PTG bolt and a brand new factory Rem 700. After blueprinting/truing the action and fitting the bolt to the action (included lapping and polishing the bolt raceways), the bolt would severely bind whenever I tried to cycle it forward. Otherwise it was smooth as silk. After screwing with it for too long I pulled the bolt out and chucked it up in the lathe, then took some emery cloth to it. Turns out the bolt diameter was just .001" too large and the flutes were binding on the sear. Needless to say, when all was said and done it was one of the smoothest actions that I've ever put together.

 

[chribon]

I did a custom build for a customer that included a fluted PTG bolt and a brand new factory Rem 700. After blueprinting/truing the action and fitting the bolt to the action (included lapping and polishing the bolt raceways), the bolt would severely bind whenever I tried to cycle it forward. Otherwise it was smooth as silk. After screwing with it for too long I pulled the bolt out and chucked it up in the lathe, then took some emery cloth to it. Turns out the bolt diameter was just .001" too large and the flutes were binding on the sear. Needless to say, when all was said and done it was one of the smoothest actions that I've ever put together.

Exactly. Same point I attempted to make above.

 

[Phezzik]

Exactly. Same point I attempted to make above.

Yup. Just confirming what you had already stated. Sorry I didn't quote your post so that it was clear.

 

[the once-ler]

it is exactly as chribon stated!! I will try the emery cloth spin and see what happens. thanks guys

 

[chribon]

Yup. Just confirming what you had already stated. Sorry I didn't quote your post so that it was clear.

No worries. You stated it more clearly than I did.