Just got action wrench and was able to assemble Origin to Proof SS barrel and torque to 80 ft lbs. Barrel is for TL3 and used Hunt lug instead of one came with the reciever. Used Clymer headspace guages after removing extractor from bolt face. Go guage and new brass round chamber effortlessly. Bolt also closes on the NO Go cage too. Pressure but not that hard either. Oh. It's a .223. Sound ok or do I have a problem?
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Headspace Problem?
- Thread starter Scoterbeast
- Start date
Measure the shoulder on a new case and fire it and compare. I bet it’ll be just fine but putting a number to it will help with confidence.
Put layers of tape on the nogo and measure how many until it doesn’t close.
Put layers of tape on the nogo and measure how many until it doesn’t close.
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If it has a little pressure on the No Go then you are real close and I wouldn't think it would be dangerous... but maybe hard on brass. I'd still measure things more before firing- with tape method mentioned above.
Do you have another 223 you can try your gauge in? I've seen some differences in gauges (even though Clymer has a good reputation). One of my guns will chamber my no-go, out of curiosity I took it to a gunsmith and he checked it with his gauge and it was exactly as you would want it.
Do you have another 223 you can try your gauge in? I've seen some differences in gauges (even though Clymer has a good reputation). One of my guns will chamber my no-go, out of curiosity I took it to a gunsmith and he checked it with his gauge and it was exactly as you would want it.
Is this a shouldered prefit or a nut set up?
Personally I would do what spife says. If 1 piece of scotch tape in the back of the no go doesn't close I would run it but like was saidx might be harder on brass.
If it's a nut set up I prefer to have the HS set close to snug on the virgin brass I plan on running in that barrel or at least easy close on go and def no close on no go
Personally I would do what spife says. If 1 piece of scotch tape in the back of the no go doesn't close I would run it but like was saidx might be harder on brass.
If it's a nut set up I prefer to have the HS set close to snug on the virgin brass I plan on running in that barrel or at least easy close on go and def no close on no go
Measure your gauges and see what the difference is. It’s prolly only .003” and in that case you are fine.
Then yes if it's closing really snug on a no go you should be okay like everyone else has said. I personally would still like to know what the HS is
Borrowed set from Buddy. Turns out exact same set as mine! Tried them and work just as you would want. No Go will not close and Go closes smooth as butter. Conversed with Clymer and am sending my set back for them to check out.
Gauges actually come in sets of three. Go, NoGo and Field.
Go Gauges are SAMMI min chamber length, Field gauges are SAMMI max chamber length. NoGo gauges are somewhere in the middle to allow for chamber wear over the life of the rifle, and as far as I know there is no standard for them. I believe they are typically 4-6 thou longer than the go gauge. I believe the field gauge is 10 thou longer than the go gauge.
So my understanding is that my bolt may close on some brand NoGo gauges, and not close on a different brand, and still be in SAMMI spec as long as it doesn't close on a field gauge.
This is also why you can get precision gauge sets in increments of 1 thou, so you can check things to the nearest thou.
Go Gauges are SAMMI min chamber length, Field gauges are SAMMI max chamber length. NoGo gauges are somewhere in the middle to allow for chamber wear over the life of the rifle, and as far as I know there is no standard for them. I believe they are typically 4-6 thou longer than the go gauge. I believe the field gauge is 10 thou longer than the go gauge.
So my understanding is that my bolt may close on some brand NoGo gauges, and not close on a different brand, and still be in SAMMI spec as long as it doesn't close on a field gauge.
This is also why you can get precision gauge sets in increments of 1 thou, so you can check things to the nearest thou.
Thanks for all the info guys. This first build has been quite a journey. From sourcing products needed and most importantly the necessary information. Learned a lot - lots to learn. Will follow up once Clymer has chance to check out my guages.
^^^ This.
Light pressure means you're about go + .004 which is towards the limit of "acceptable", but acceptable nonetheless.
On a .223 I wouldn't expect any lug setback over the life of the barrel which would increase that clearance. A non-issue for factory ammo, if you handload just set your shoulder bump accordingly so you don't overwork your brass.
Given tolerance stacking on the receiver end (usually .001 for each of lug/boltface and abutments/receiver ring from what I've been told) and then the barrel's shoulder/go gage dimension I'm amazed these shouldered prefits work at all.
