Help making a decision

[PRSDietitian]

So I recently sold a barrel, action, and a chassis and between the three items I got like $3200

No, I’m trying to make a decision on what I should get. The barrel action and chassis was for a PRS rifle. I was building prior.

So my options are the same PRS rifle but at a better cost from masterpiece arms at around $2900 in 6 creed

Or

A very well-built AR 10 that I have parts picked out already in 6.5 creed for 2400

People are always going to ask what is going to be my use case? Well it’s 2024, the world is a bit Squirrley these days. So this is basically just to reach out and touch some thing farther than my 14.5 and 13.9 AR 15s.

Also, for reference, the AR 10 would have a craddock RTR 22” barrel and a trugg Pierre’s diamond trigger, so quality is there. And the MPA is the PMR pro with the matrix pro 2 chassis.

 

[Texascbr]

Do the AR build. Always get something you don’t have that might be banned first.

 

[PRSDietitian]

Do the AR build. Always get something you don’t have that might be banned first.

That’s actually a good take

I have a 14.5 centurion build and my gf has a 13.9 criterion build so we are covered for under 500 yards. I agree, the AR is infinitely more likely to have infringements against it

 

[Hobo Hilton]

the world is a bit Squirrley these days

I would lean to the AR build with the best quality parts I could procure. Then I would have a stash of quality replacement parts.
Build it yourself or have a reputable smith allow you to shadow him as he builds it.
JMHO

 

[Texascbr]

For the price range you listed I would do a Seekins SP10 instead of a build. The parts you picked are solid but a factory gun will be easier if you ever decide to part ways with it.

 

[PRSDietitian]

With the AR being the preferred one currently, I did want to get some opinions

Dirty bird ambi receiver set(from the looks of the receivers, it looks like they get their stuff from the same folks that do GGP)

LMT SR25 bcg
badger ordnance 7.62 charging handle
Craddock precision RTR 6.5 creed 22”
SLR sentry 8 gas block
APA little bastard gen 2
Cross machine tool 17” arca handguard
Dpms LPK
Badger condition one selector
Mdt vertical grip
A2 receiver, extension with rifle buffer and Sprinco spring
Magpul prs gen 3
Triggertech diamond AR single stage

 

[PRSDietitian]

For the price range you listed I would do a Seekins SP10 instead of a build. The parts you picked are solid but a factory gun will be easier if you ever decide to part ways with it.

I can agree with that. The only thing I don’t like about the SP 10 is, unless they have changed it, it doesn’t include an arca rail and the cmt hand guard I mentioned in my comment above does, and I do like that craddock has some really good affordable barrels right now

 

[redneckbmxer24]

If it has to be one of those I’d second the suggestion to buy a SP10 and be done. You can get an ARCA rail for it from Seekins or Sawtooth made specifically for that HG and have a separate sacrificial rail to replace if it gets fucked up instead of an entire HG.

Personally though I’d add a few hundred $$ on top of what you’ve got an get a Seekins 6ARC gasser and a Havak Hit and have both of the things you want.

 

[PRSDietitian]

If it has to be one of those I’d second the suggestion to buy a SP10 and be done. You can get an ARCA rail for it from Seekins or Sawtooth made specifically for that HG and have a separate sacrificial rail to replace if it gets fucked up instead of an entire HG.

Personally though I’d add a few hundred $$ on top of what you’ve got a get a Seekins 6ARC gasser and a Havak Hit and have both of the things you want.

Are you suggesting a good factory to remove any risk in regards to assembly?

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Are you suggesting a good factory to remove any risk in regards to assembly?

That plus if parts don’t work with one another and there’s any issues. You’re not going to build something that’s going to shoot any better than a factory Seekins and you deal with any issues that may arise. The SP10 is just a super solid, reliable, and superbly accurate rifle.

 

[JR1200W3]

If you're going to build, I'd use a "builders kit". A matched upper, lower, and handguard. ADM MFG makes a kit with a long fore-end and their ambi lowers are the best in the biz. You can also tell from the components of their rifles what parts you could use that you know will be compatible.

Also, I have to say I'm not a fan of the TT Diamond AR trigger I currently have in my LFAR 6.5CM. the trigger shoe has play in it. I prefer the Timney 3G 3.5lb single stage. And I'm normally a TT guy.

 

[LRRPF52]

I’ve been big into AR-10s since the 1980s, have owned 7 of them, still have 3.

The GAP .260 Rem is by far the most fun to shoot, but sadly, I don’t shoot my large frame guns much anymore.

The weight/bulk is a bit of a turn-off, not that I can’t handle it, just that it's inconvenient when packing into cases, carrying, getting into position, pointing, etc.

I’ve been toying with the idea of doing a 7mm SAW in the MSR-10 frame. Wish there was a smaller frame builder’s kit complete with a good BCG like Savage used in the MSR-10.

I enjoy shooting the Grendels more than anything though.

 

[PRSDietitian]

If you're going to build, I'd use a "builders kit". A matched upper, lower, and handguard. ADM MFG makes a kit with a long fore-end and their ambi lowers are the best in the biz. You can also tell from the components of their rifles what parts you could use that you know will be compatible.

Also, I have to say I'm not a fan of the TT Diamond AR trigger I currently have in my LFAR 6.5CM. the trigger shoe has play in it. I prefer the Timney 3G 3.5lb single stage. And I'm normally a TT guy.

I have never used the single stage version, I have just used the adaptable which goes down to I think 2.5 pounds. Of course, in a lot of the builder groups that I am in, they recommend a geissele because “ cassette trigger bad”. If I did, I would get the SSP. But I like the idea of being able to use a trigger that goes down to a similar trigger pole that I would use on a bolt action rifle. In what way does the trigger shoe have play? And are you using the curved or the straight shoe?

 

[JR1200W3]

I have never used the single stage version, I have just used the adaptable which goes down to I think 2.5 pounds. Of course, in a lot of the builder groups that I am in, they recommend a geissele because “ cassette trigger bad”. If I did, I would get the SSP. But I like the idea of being able to use a trigger that goes down to a similar trigger pole that I would use on a bolt action rifle. In what way does the trigger shoe have play? And are you using the curved or the straight shoe?

Straight shoe. When cocked the trigger shoe isn't "fixed". Don't know how to describe it. It's just loose until you apply your finger to it and bring it back to it's wall.

It doesn't feel like a bolt action Diamond so I wouldn't expect a similar feel.

 

[the monk]

I would get the SP10. I would always want a removable ARCA vs. one built into the rail. If you use the gun off barricades, it will get beat up and is a replaceable item. If built into the rail you will need a new rail.

 

[Jsp556]

You can build a good large frame ar but imo you can’t go wrong buying a factory gun from a reputable company with a track record of building accurate, reliable large frames. Companies that have spent the time and money developing their system stand above the others.

For what you’re talking about, I’d rather have a 1 MOA gun that runs on anything in all conditions than a .5 moa rifle that chokes when it gets hot and dirty.


Seekins, LMT, KAC, etc is where I’d be looking for a 6.5 Creedmoor gasser.

 

[PRSDietitian]

You can build a good large frame ar but imo you can’t go wrong buying a factory gun from a reputable company with a track record of building accurate, reliable large frames. Companies that have spent the time and money developing their system stand above the others.

For what you’re talking about, I’d rather have a 1 MOA gun that runs on anything in all conditions than a .5 moa rifle that chokes when it gets hot and dirty.


Seekins, LMT, KAC, etc is where I’d be looking for a 6.5 Creedmoor gasser.

What in my parts list would signal that it would choke up in dirty conditions? As far as I am aware, the SP10 uses tight, fitting, billet, receiver, sets, it uses a match grade barrel, it uses an adjustable gas block, and it is well assembled. I have assembled plenty of AR rifles and have never had any issues in dirty conditions. What I was asking is what does the SP 10 bring to the table that a well personally assembled AR 10 does not? Other than maybe somebody wanting an external arca rail vs an integrated one.

 

[Jsp556]

What in my parts list would signal that it would choke up in dirty conditions? As far as I am aware, the SP10 uses tight, fitting, billet, receiver, sets, it uses a match grade barrel, it uses an adjustable gas block, and it is well assembled. I have assembled plenty of AR rifles and have never had any issues in dirty conditions. What I was asking is what does the SP 10 bring to the table that a well personally assembled AR 10 does not? Other than maybe somebody wanting an external arca rail vs an integrated one.

Their parts are proven to work together. They’ll stand behind the product/warranty. The SP10 rifles are built to meet a standard on accuracy and reliability. There’s no telling how many rounds were fired and how many changes were made to get it there.

Ever see how big the port on a MWS carrier is? It’s to vent a purposely heavy gassed barrel. Do you know it’ll work with the Craddock barrel and sentry gas block? What are you going to do if it doesn’t?

Do you know how your barrel will fit in your chosen receivers?

Is “Dirty Bird” going to be around in 10 years to provide any parts that may be proprietary to their sets?

Seekins receivers are designed to prevent poi shifts from handguard loading. Are the ones you’ve chosen?

“The world is a bit squirrelly” infers you’re considering this gun as something you may use to protect life or property. Why not get something that’s a proven performer?

I’ve built several large frame gas guns with quality parts and they’ve been accurate and pretty reliable. I’d never think I knew as much about building accurate, reliable gas guns that were designed, engineered, and tested as Armalite, LMT, or Seekins.

Why aren’t you building your own bolt gun?

ETA: Text has no tone. I’m not trying to be a dick.

 

[PRSDietitian]

Fair point. On the dirty bird receivers, from what I can tell it's your standard billet DPMS receiver set. Good quality for sure(I've shot a few rifles with their ambi AR sets) so I'd assumed any parts i'd need will just needto be dpms compatible which isnt hard to find

Wasn't aware of that with the LMT BCG. A friend is trying to talk me into a JP FMOS. Which may or may not be superior for my needs

As far as the bolt gun, So I was going to build my own but MPA started carrying rifles with the action I bought. Did the math and with my mil discount, I could get a complete rifle cheaper than building my own. Not that I didn't trust myself to build one, but I'm a frugal scotsman at heart and it's a hard trait to deal with sometimes haha.

I guess my thought process is, if I pick what I want and verify everything beforeI buy to ensure things SHOULD work as intended, then I won't need to upgrade in the future.

 

[PRSDietitian]

And I didn't think you were being a dick. I'm all for constructive criticism

 

[JR1200W3]

You should take a read through the LMT MWS thread

 

[PRSDietitian]

You should take a read through the LMT MWS thread

To buy an mws or for educational purposes?

 

[the monk]

I guess my thought process is, if I pick what I want and verify everything beforeI buy to ensure things SHOULD work as intended, then I won't need to upgrade in the future.

Building an AR10 is not like building a AR15. I am by no means saying you can't build a reliable, accurate gun, but it is not as easy as throwing high end parts together. If you go back in these pages you can read countless threads of people pulling their hair out trying to get their guns to work.

I am a AR15 armorer several times over and after a lot of research, I agree with @Jsp556. Buying a gun from the likes of lmt, kac, jp, seekings, ect, in a very high percentage of cases will leave you with an accurate, reliable weapon that will run with all kinds of ammo, clean or dirty, suppressed or unsuppressed.

 

[HerCoStarNTheBeaverPictur]

What in my parts list would signal that it would choke up in dirty conditions? As far as I am aware, the SP10 uses tight, fitting, billet, receiver, sets, it uses a match grade barrel, it uses an adjustable gas block, and it is well assembled. I have assembled plenty of AR rifles and have never had any issues in dirty conditions. What I was asking is what does the SP 10 bring to the table that a well personally assembled AR 10 does not? Other than maybe somebody wanting an external arca rail vs an integrated one.

I think the main thing it brings to the table is the support.

In my (limited) experience, as long as you’re using high quality parts and preferably matching receivers, you’ll have little issues

 

[JR1200W3]

Building a large frame isn't nearly as perilous as people make out. Builders kits + proof barrels+ JP parts and it'll turn out great. I also think "support" in the gun industry usually sucks. Sends the gun back to you " meets our specs, can't reproduce the problem"

 

[PRSDietitian]

No, I haven’t read a lot of these threads as to why people were having issues, but I can go out on a limb and guess

They had gassing issues either because they had a barrel with an incorrect gas port, or they use an improperly weighted bolt carrier group or an improper buffer spring. Probably going to light on either one of them.

Or mixing up the AR 10 parts with DPMS parts and not paying attention to which receiver set type they had.

Those are a few of my guesses

 

[JR1200W3]

No, I haven’t read a lot of these threads as to why people were having issues, but I can go out on a limb and guess

They had gassing issues either because they had a barrel with an incorrect gas port, or they use an improperly weighted bolt carrier group or an improper buffer spring. Probably going to light on either one of them.

Or mixing up the AR 10 parts with DPMS parts and not paying attention to which receiver set type they had.

Those are a few of my guesses

Ive seen just as many factory rifle "AR10 help" threads on here over the years

 

[LRRPF52]

I think the main thing it brings to the table is the support.

In my (limited) experience, as long as you’re using high quality parts and preferably matching receivers, you’ll have little issues

I’ve seen and had to fix several very high-end parts guns that fell into the perils of the large frame labyrinth of non-working combinations.

Areas to consider:

1. Bolt carrier rail lengths relative to the RET boss on the lower, where the threads originate. Some combos will smash the carrier rails into the threads when the BCG cycles to the rear.

2. Gas tube lengths and bend heights. RLGS does not equal RLGS in the AR-10/DPMS LR-308 world. There are 2 main different RLGS lengths, the Eagle Arms ArmaLite one being longer, while the DPMS one is shorter. Even some of the top barrel makers assumed they were using “the standard” because they set their barrel extensions up for DPMS compatibility, but inadvertently used the ArmaLite RLGS length.

The height difference between tubes is also apparent between the gas block and the gas tube aperture on the front of the upper receiver. The parts will fit together fine, but the tube will clip the carrier key, wearing it down quickly and losing the gas seal.

3. Magazines. Even within the 4+ DPMS models of LR-308 and GII receiver sets, magazines were not compatible across the board, especially once they did the GII. 1st Gen PMAGs did not work without modification to the followers. You can also have an SR-25/LR-308/modern AR-10A that work with one of the 7.62 PMAGs, but not the others. I started off with Gen 1 7.62x51 PMAGs, but there were changes made to Gen 2 versions. Lancers typically solve magazine issues in many of the upper-end builds I’ve seen that wouldn’t run on PMAGs, but really you want the company making the rifle to have a known set of magazine dimensions they used when doing their development of the design.

4. Gas blocks. Like with any AR, the gas block needs to preferably be press-fit, which eliminates 99% of the DIYers off the bat. Companies will not sell gas blocks unless someone can slip-fit them on the journal, so that’s what they do. It does not lend itself well for reliability. You can get around this as a DIYer with a clamp-on block, or bedding the block to the journal once you’ve established reliability.

There are a bunch of other scenarios I have covered before based on roughly 30 years of experience with the large frame guns, owning many of them, and working on them over the years. You can buy top-end parts and still have a malf-o-matic. Have seen it many times.

Large frames are one place where I recommend leaning towards buying a single-source solution from a long-term company who did pyramid testing with their rifles, not a company that uses a parts-based starting point and then beta-tests on their unsuspecting customers.

 

[PRSDietitian]

Step 1: choose a matching receiver set
Step 2 determine what type they are
Step 3 find quality parts that fit the type
Step 4: don’t bubba your rifle, put it together properly
Step 5: test and troubleshoot if needed

 

[PRSDietitian]

I’ve seen and had to fix several very high-end parts guns that fell into the perils of the large frame labyrinth of non-working combinations.

Areas to consider:

1. Bolt carrier rail lengths relative to the RET boss on the lower, where the threads originate. Some combos will smash the carrier rails into the threads when the BCG cycles to the rear.

2. Gas tube lengths and bend heights. RLGS does not equal RLGS in the AR-10/DPMS LR-308 world. There are 2 main different RLGS lengths, the Eagle Arms ArmaLite one being longer, while the DPMS one is shorter. Even some of the top barrel makers assumed they were using “the standard” because they set their barrel extensions up for DPMS compatibility, but inadvertently used the ArmaLite RLGS length.

The height difference between tubes is also apparent between the gas block and the gas tube aperture on the front of the upper receiver. The parts will fit together fine, but the tube will clip the carrier key, wearing it down quickly and losing the gas seal.

3. Magazines. Even within the 4+ DPMS models of LR-308 and GII receiver sets, magazines were not compatible across the board, especially once they did the GII. 1st Gen PMAGs did not work without modification to the followers. You can also have an SR-25/LR-308/modern AR-10A that work with one of the 7.62 PMAGs, but not the others. I started off with Gen 1 7.62x51 PMAGs, but there were changes made to Gen 2 versions. Lancers typically solve magazine issues in many of the upper-end builds I’ve seen that wouldn’t run on PMAGs, but really you want the company making the rifle to have a known set of magazine dimensions they used when doing their development of the design.

4. Gas blocks. Like with any AR, the gas block needs to preferably be press-fit, which eliminates 99% of the DIYers off the bat. Companies will not sell gas blocks unless someone can slip-fit them on the journal, so that’s what they do. It does not lend itself well for reliability. You can get around this as a DIYer with a clamp-on block, or bedding the block to the journal once you’ve established reliability.

There are a bunch of other scenarios I have covered before based on roughly 30 years of experience with the large frame guns, owning many of them, and working on them over the years. You can buy top-end parts and still have a malf-o-matic. Have seen it many times.

Large frames are one place where I recommend leaning towards buying a single-source solution from a long-term company who did pyramid testing with their rifles, not a company that uses a parts-based starting point and then beta-tests on their unsuspecting customers.

I can agree with all of this

 

[PRSDietitian]

I’ve seen and had to fix several very high-end parts guns that fell into the perils of the large frame labyrinth of non-working combinations.

Areas to consider:

1. Bolt carrier rail lengths relative to the RET boss on the lower, where the threads originate. Some combos will smash the carrier rails into the threads when the BCG cycles to the rear.

2. Gas tube lengths and bend heights. RLGS does not equal RLGS in the AR-10/DPMS LR-308 world. There are 2 main different RLGS lengths, the Eagle Arms ArmaLite one being longer, while the DPMS one is shorter. Even some of the top barrel makers assumed they were using “the standard” because they set their barrel extensions up for DPMS compatibility, but inadvertently used the ArmaLite RLGS length.

The height difference between tubes is also apparent between the gas block and the gas tube aperture on the front of the upper receiver. The parts will fit together fine, but the tube will clip the carrier key, wearing it down quickly and losing the gas seal.

3. Magazines. Even within the 4+ DPMS models of LR-308 and GII receiver sets, magazines were not compatible across the board, especially once they did the GII. 1st Gen PMAGs did not work without modification to the followers. You can also have an SR-25/LR-308/modern AR-10A that work with one of the 7.62 PMAGs, but not the others. I started off with Gen 1 7.62x51 PMAGs, but there were changes made to Gen 2 versions. Lancers typically solve magazine issues in many of the upper-end builds I’ve seen that wouldn’t run on PMAGs, but really you want the company making the rifle to have a known set of magazine dimensions they used when doing their development of the design.

4. Gas blocks. Like with any AR, the gas block needs to preferably be press-fit, which eliminates 99% of the DIYers off the bat. Companies will not sell gas blocks unless someone can slip-fit them on the journal, so that’s what they do. It does not lend itself well for reliability. You can get around this as a DIYer with a clamp-on block, or bedding the block to the journal once you’ve established reliability.

There are a bunch of other scenarios I have covered before based on roughly 30 years of experience with the large frame guns, owning many of them, and working on them over the years. You can buy top-end parts and still have a malf-o-matic. Have seen it many times.

Large frames are one place where I recommend leaning towards buying a single-source solution from a long-term company who did pyramid testing with their rifles, not a company that uses a parts-based starting point and then beta-tests on their unsuspecting customers.

And it can be a best scenario where, whoever you get your barrel from, let them headspace to your bolt and get the gas block and tube they recommend if they offer those, which craddock does

 

[LRRPF52]

One thing I have NOT seen over the years, dating back to the very original days of the green furniture ArmaLite Inc. AR-10s, is people asking for help troubleshooting those guns. They just work. My first AR-10 was a 24” AR-10T .308 laser that shot 1/3 MOA with FGMM, point and click rifle hummer. I’ve also seen 1996 and later ArmaLite AR-10s in Finland that ran like raped apes in the summer and extreme cold winter, to include 24”, 20”, and 16” guns.

I’m not one of those guys who gets all wrapped up in the company names and which is a real AR-10 vs which is not, but the ArmaLite Inc. guns were very well-engineered and manufactured to a consistent standard.

DPMS jumped on the gravy train with a low price point option with the LR-308 in 2004, and they just were not remotely the same in terms of receiver, BCG, barrel, and small parts quality. Most of the industry started copying those LR-308 guns with their versions of a lower quality sample set, and the rest is history.

I’ve owned and used multiple samples of both. The DPMS receivers weren’t terrible, so the receiver set + BCG made a solid starting point for a reputable shop or AR smith to build on.

The real rubber meets the road when the manufacturer goes through pyramid testing with a start fleet of rifles and 100,000 rounds, attended by competent engineers monitoring the trigger monkeys and techs. All that work can be negated though by company leadership if they undermine product development in production by cutting corners, which is kind of what I felt happened with the GII.

 

[PRSDietitian]

One thing I have NOT seen over the years, dating back to the very original days of the green furniture ArmaLite Inc. AR-10s, is people asking for help troubleshooting those guns. They just work. My first AR-10 was a 24” AR-10T .308 laser that shot 1/3 MOA with FGMM, point and click rifle hummer. I’ve also seen 1996 and later ArmaLite AR-10s in Finland that ran like raped apes in the summer and extreme cold winter, to include 24”, 20”, and 16” guns.

I’m not one of those guys who gets all wrapped up in the company names and which is a real AR-10 vs which is not, but the ArmaLite Inc. guns were very well-engineered and manufactured to a consistent standard.

DPMS jumped on the gravy train with a low price point option with the LR-308 in 2004, and they just were not remotely the same in terms of receiver, BCG, barrel, and small parts quality. Most of the industry started copying those LR-308 guns with their versions of a lower quality sample set, and the rest is history.

I’ve owned and used multiple samples of both. The DPMS receivers weren’t terrible, so the receiver set + BCG made a solid starting point for a reputable shop or AR smith to build on.

The real rubber meets the road when the manufacturer goes through pyramid testing with a start fleet of rifles and 100,000 rounds, attended by competent engineers monitoring the trigger monkeys and techs. All that work can be negated though by company leadership if they undermine product development in production by cutting corners, which is kind of what I felt happened with the GII.

Tell me about the g2. I saw craddock offering g2 barrels as well

 

[PRSDietitian]

Tell me about the g2. I saw craddock offering g2 barrels as well

So when I was shopping for my parts, the first thing that I did was see what kind of receiver set I had chosen. The brand said they were DMS high profile. So when I was choosing my hand guard, I made sure to choose one that matched that profile. Then I asked for a recommendation for lower parts kits, and they recommended a DMS parts kit that they sell.
Then I looked at what parts are interchangeable between A.R. 15, AR 10, and DPMS. So that’s when I chose the badger ordinance, selector and charging handle.
I then emailed craddock and they said they would headspace a barrel to whatever bulk carrier group I chose, which I’m pretty sure is going to be the LMT. They also said they would assemble the upper for me for only about $75.
And I’m waiting for a response regarding gas block because they sell a superlative arms, gas block, which I’m not the biggest fan of because I don’t like the bleed off mode and I am much prefer a SLR, so if they can get that put on there, no problem, then I’m good with that.
I then looked at receiver extensions, and I found various 308 rifle length receiver, extensions and then I asked the manufacturer if it will fit fit a DMS pattern lower, and they said yes.
From there everything else is pretty straightforward. I just made sure that the parts that I selected are compatible and then I just assemble things in a very efficient manner.

 

[PRSDietitian]

Ok ya'll are getting my gears turning on the SP-10. On eurooptic it says that it has a triggertech. Is this accurate? If so which is it?

 

[drewthebrave]

Ok ya'll are getting my gears turning on the SP-10. On eurooptic it says that it has a triggertech. Is this accurate? If so which is it?

I've owned nearly every type of gas-gun trigger TT offers and I can confidently say that whatever trigger it comes with will be excellent. I think the 3.5 lb Competitive trigger is the bargain of the bunch, but the Adaptable & Diamond are available if you want to go lighter.

 

[PRSDietitian]

I just got an email back from Euro optic and they said it was the trigger tech primary

 

[PRSDietitian]

I've owned nearly every type of gas-gun trigger TT offers and I can confidently say that whatever trigger it comes with will be excellent. I think the 3.5 lb Competitive trigger is the bargain of the bunch, but the Adaptable & Diamond are available if you want to go lighter.

So I’m not sure if the adaptable or the competitive replaced the primary, I can’t really find much information. But I’m assuming the trigger tech that is in the rifle is like 3.5 pounds.

 

[PRSDietitian]

So I do have another question. Does anybody know when seekins might do another run of the SP 10 receiver sets? I looked at a few videos that Frank did with them regarding the SP 10 M and I really like how the handguard, the barrel, and the receiver lock up. I think it looks like a really rigid platform. Also, that being said, the closest thing to that would be the M5 enhanced receiver set from aero and I know most people are not a big fan of them, and rightfully so in many circumstances. But is it worth waiting for the SP 10 receiver sets to come back in stock when many have been waiting for probably close to a year anyway or is the M1 enhanced upper with a sgt of arms hand guard worth looking into?