Help me decide?

Gbar222

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Jun 8, 2023
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Denver
Two years ago I built my first custom, it’s also my only magnum caliber big game rifle in 7PRC. The gun shoots great and I killed a nice bull elk (my first) with it Nov 2024, but otherwise it goes to the range only occasionally.

Kelbly Atlas Tactical Action
Preferred Barrel Blanks 24” Stainless Varmint/Sendero Contour (total 400 rounds)
Trigger Tech Special
KRG Bravo with light Arca Rail and minimalist spigot mount
Burris XTR III 5.5-30X56, FFP SCR 2 Mil reticle
ARC M Brace one-piece scope mount

I love the action and everything about the gun except the weight. It easily shoots .5-.7” with factory ammo (when I don’t flinch). Here is my dilemma, It weights 15.3 lbs with my Nomad L on the end. Not exactly heavy enough for regular precision work with a magnum, and too heavy to comfortably hunt with it where walking and hiking are required., To be honest, I only big game hunt a once, maybe twice year and most of the time I’m pretty close to the truck (2-4 mile walk max, usually less). I do shoot long range (out to 1367 yards currently) for fun and competition, but I have dedicated precision guns in 6.5CM and 6CM for that.

I’m wondering what to do-

Option 1- Keep the gun as is and just deal with the weight for my limited use. Maybe a sling would help with carrying? I guess I could drop 1.1 pounds (from the muzzle) by leaving the suppressor at home, but I like the sound and recoil reduction.
Option 2- Sell the Kelbly altogether and buy a new Seekins PH3 (approx $1900),and save about 4 lbs without swapping anything else. I love the Seekins stuff and already own a couple.
Other options-
Keep the Kelbly, swap the Preferred stainless barrel a Proof Carbon 24” barrel and save almost 2lbs ($1000)
Switch to lighter rings ($200) and save .5lb
Sell the Bravo and swap to a Manners LRH Stock ($1000) and save another 1.2lbs or so.
Sell the Burris and switch to a lighter hunting scope? Cost? Weight savings?
Option 4- Any other ideas?

Just want to make sure I’m not missing some other options that would save weight at a reasonable cost. Thank you!
 
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If a 15.3# 7 PRC causes you to flinch, making it lighter isn't going to help you at all.

I read your post twice and other than you mentioning changes that would lighten it, I don't know what else you're trying to accomplish.

Help us out here, so we can help you
 
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You can chop the barrel to 18" and flute it. You can also sell and swap the chassis. This about $250 in barrel work and $600 in chassis difference.

Start with the barrel chop, and if that doesn't make you happy, move on to replacing the KRG for manners. If you're chasing weight, don't get an adjustable cheekpiece—it adds a pound, and the rifle will be fine without one.
 
Replacing the scope with something like a Vortex LHT or similar weight will save you almost 1 pound.

Swapping the KRG for a Manners will also save you about 1 pound.

Is it easy to remove the suppressor while hunting? Even taking it off the rifle while you're walking and putting it in your bag will be noticeable. Yes you're still carrying that weight, but it's not weight on your rifle (I don't know how you carry your rifle... if it's on a sling you'll definitely notice it, if you carry it attached to your bag, then it's kind of a moot point).

Those are probably the easiest things to do before swapping or chopping your barrel. That's around a 12 pound rifle in that configuration. Take it for a hike and see how easy it is to carry before spending more money on the barrel. That's what I'd do at least.
 
None of those are easier or cheaper than chopping a barrel
You're right, changing a few parts in an hour or less at home is way more difficult than sending your rifle to a smith for a week minimum. All you have to do is mail it/hand it off to someone and wait, how hard is that? Also don't remember mentioning cheaper anywhere in my post.

Also I should have known not to post anything after you've given your advice, everyone here knows you know the only way to skin a cat. Please accept my sincere apology MauryGod.
 
You're right, changing a few parts in an hour or less at home is way more difficult than sending your rifle to a smith for a week minimum. All you have to do is mail it/hand it off to someone and wait, how hard is that? Also don't remember mentioning cheaper anywhere in my post.

Also I should have known not to post anything after you've given your advice, everyone here knows you know the only way to skin a cat. Please accept my sincere apology MauryGod.
you might not be concerned about spending ops money but he is. "just want to make sure I’m not missing some other options that would save weight at a reasonable cost"

so yeah - spending 200 on chopping a pound of the barrel is a better idea than spending $1500 to save 10oz on a scope no one uses.
 
you might not be concerned about spending ops money but he is. "just want to make sure I’m not missing some other options that would save weight at a reasonable cost"

so yeah - spending 200 on chopping a pound of the barrel is a better idea than spending $1500 to save 10oz on a scope no one uses.
Maybe take a read through his original post again so you can see that anything I mentioned are options he's already considered. If he really wants to, he can do the math to figure out how much it will cost in the end if he sells his stock and scope. Or since you need to be right all the time why don't you do it for us and save anyone the trouble of being wrong so you don't have to call them out too?
 
Maybe take a read through his original post again so you can see that anything I mentioned are options he's already considered. If he really wants to, he can do the math to figure out how much it will cost in the end if he sells his stock and scope. Or since you need to be right all the time why don't you do it for us and save anyone the trouble of being wrong so you don't have to call them out too?

Only one of us is butt hurt. You can stop crying.

Also what a terrible scope recommendation.
 
I have heavier rifles I use for hunting the majority of the time. AI’s and then a tikka ctr which is considerably lighter

I also have a Tikka T3X Lite Veil in 300 WM. If I’m going to be walking or just want a lighter setup I’ll take that

I don’t know how far you plan to shoot hunting but you could put together something like a tikka lite/scope combo for longer walking distance hunts.

For me when I’m hunting regular deer season during the rut I keep my shots usually within 400 yards. Just because the deer are moving more and I don’t bring a crap load of gear when walking

Chopping the barrel is probably the best bet if you want to keep using the current setup all the time. Otherwise I’d keep that rifle as is. You chop the barrel and you may or may not retain the current accuracy

Something even like a CTR in 308 can get you a relatively lighter setup in the factory stock while making a good suppressor host and running a decent 10 round mag

If you have a flinch with the rifle as is making it lighter won’t help you any. You’d be better off with a lighter recoiling rifle like a 308 where you don’t flinch and can practice and make precise shots when hunting vs a rifle you’re nervous behind when you pull the trigger
 
I love the action and everything about the gun except the weight.
Option 2- Sell the Kelbly altogether and buy a new Seekins PH3 (approx $1900),and save about 4 lbs without swapping anything else. I love the Seekins stuff and already own a couple.
Other options-
Keep the Kelbly, swap the Preferred stainless barrel a Proof Carbon 24” barrel and save almost 2lbs ($1000)
Sell the Bravo and swap to a Manners LRH Stock ($1000) and save another 1.2lbs or so.
Swapping the barrel and stock by your math is 2k. The seekins ph3 is a 100 less and you have 2 rifles. Or offset the cost and sell the kelby.
 
I should have been more clear, I am definitely leaning toward keeping it. Unfortunately I built it without a specific purpose clearly identified and I ended up with a a tweener. I completely understand that a range gun and hunting gun are not the same. I generally shoot the gun well, but moving forward it will definitely be hunting focused. I will leave the range work for other purpose built tools more suited for that role.

With a clearer purpose for the gun, I just want to lighten it for hunting. If I can do that reasonably, that would be preferred. If it involves too many compromises, I want to be aware of that also. You have given me plenty to consider. I had not thought about cutting down the barrel and possibly fluting. That’s very helpful. I appreciate all of the advice.
 
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I should have been more clear, I am definitely leaning toward keeping it. Unfortunately I built it without a specific purpose clearly identified and I ended up with a a tweener. I completely understand that a range gun and hunting gun are not the same. I generally shoot the gun well, but moving forward it will definitely be hunting focused. I will leave the range work for other purpose built tools more suited for that role.

With a clearer purpose for the gun, I just want to lighten it for hunting. If I can do that reasonably, that would be preferred. If it involves too many compromises, I want to be aware of that also. You have given me plenty to consider. I had not thought about cutting down the barrel and possibly fluting. That’s very helpful. I appreciate all of the advice.

The one glaring thing you'll need to conquer with this rifle is you flinching with it.
If you make it lighter, it's only going to get worse.
I recommend you do a lot more shooting with it before putting it on a weight loss program.
If you can't get past the flinching, then you're wasting money.

One thing that might help is to understand a couple things about recoil.
1. It's gonna kick the same, no matter if you make the correct shot, or yank the trigger with your eyes closed.
2. Rather than trying to firmly control the rifle, learn to roll with it. When you try to firmly control it, your body is stiff and you'll feel everything. Being relaxed allows your body to move with the recoil.

Once you understand and can apply this, then you can start the weight loss program on the rifle.
 
I should have been more clear, I am definitely leaning toward keeping it. Unfortunately I built it without a specific purpose clearly identified and I ended up with a a tweener. I completely understand that a range gun and hunting gun are not the same. I generally shoot the gun well, but moving forward it will definitely be hunting focused. I will leave the range work for other purpose built tools more suited for that role.

With a clearer purpose for the gun, I just want to lighten it for hunting. If I can do that reasonably, that would be preferred. If it involves too many compromises, I want to be aware of that also. You have given me plenty to consider. I had not thought about cutting down the barrel and possibly fluting. That’s very helpful. I appreciate all of the advice.

You’ll typically lose around 25fps per inch on a chop. I went to 18” barrels on my 300wm hunting gun and they are awesome. The short barrel is super practical to for moving around. I think you’ll really like it if you do that and rec short barrels for everyone wanting a hunting gun and I’ve still shot it out to a mile without issue
 
Keep the rifle and buy a new lightweight hunting rifle before the next time you go kill something. Tikka lite and an LHT easy button, or peruse PX / hunting forums for used. Shooting an 8lb magnum will also help your flinch when shooting the 15lb'er.
 
One thing to keep in mind when chopping a barrel is the rating on your suppressor. Not sure what you’re using but the manufacturer will list suggested minimum lengths for calibers based on the cans design