Help me design a LR 22 Field course - please.

[seafury]

Hey guys,

I’m trying to put together a long range 22 field type course on some family property. The distances will be about 100 yds to 300 yards and include some high angle stuff. Target backdrops will be in fairly dense vegetation so not likely misses will be able to be spotted regularly.

For the average 22lr precision shooter, what steel target sizes would you recommend for 100, 150, 200, 250, 300 yards?

The other caveat is some of these areas will be a pita to get to so the targets wont be painted often. What type of targets would provide some movement - indication of a hit, if the impact cant be seen against a fresh coat of paint. The targets will be left up in the elements. Target mounting ideas?

Eventually for a shooter new to this course it will be a find it, range it, engage it affair. Probably mostly tri pod work or I’ll set up different types of barricades or use natural terrain features to shoot from.

Some pics...

This is probably the longest shot. The bare spot on the hill is about 298 yards.

This is at about a 45 degree downhill slope maybe 150 yds. Further as you pan up.

Another pic just to the right of the last. That ridge in center frame is about 250 - 300 yards.

That should give you a good idea of the terrain. What size, type of steel targets would be appropriate here?

Thanks guys!

 

[littlepod]

2.5" at 100 yards.
4" at 150 yards.
6" at 200 yards.
8" at 250
12" at 300 yards

 

[Near miss]

Also add another smaller plate for windless days: 1" at 100, 2" at 200, 4" at 300.
You can also put some rocks you find near the targets to shoot at.*

Put them in front of sandy background for easier spotting.

How to mount the targets..
With metal targets I have just placed them against something or stuck them into sand/earth.
But I usually do not leave them there, I like walking to the targets and usually make few rounds atleast switching new papers.*

For papers I use tree stumps and such.*

I would also put some wind flags there also, just to see how it is doing across the range when I come there.

*Did not comprehend you will really host matches there, some advise is best to pass.

 

[seafury]

Good call on the wind flags. I think I’ll need the targets to swing a little to verify a hit on a shot up target.
definitely going to hide some of these guys in the tree line.

 

[Eoddave27]

If you go on eBay and do a search for AR500 steel you will be able to find some great deals on targets. Stick with 1/4” thick steel so you can see the movement. If you go with 3/8” it will be hard to see impacts on the ones way out there. Just a thought for those hard to reach targets and this may not work at all. Do you have a paint ball gun? If you can get within 10-20 yards of the targets and just hit them with some bright colored paintballs It may gibe you enough color to spot them. It looks pretty thick there so you will want something so the targets don’t get lost in the background. Another option would be to put a bright colored backer behind the targets. For mounting I would either use Shepard’s hooks or steel fence posts. if you check Amazon you can buy Shepard’s hook in 10-12 packs for under $50. I use fence posts and have had pretty good luck with them. I just use 6” long eye bolts that I cut into a hook instead of an eye and bolt them through the posts. One other thing I will add is for spotting get yourself a cheap tripod and a nice set of 10-12x binoculars. They are much easier to stay behind, have a wider field of view and will have plenty of magnification for your purpose.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

If you're running a match, don't skimp on quality steel targets. You'll end up spending more time fixing targets than shooting. Even with quality targets you'll spend some time fixing them. It's unavoidable but save yourself some headache.

 

[accurate obsession]

Target sizes like Littlepod said and multiples like Near Miss said. Large and small together, required hit on large to go for small, need balance between not discouraging new shooters vs. challenging better ones. T post hangers work great, hanging targets from rubber straps in odd locations works. Don't use thick centerfire targets, you want the ring and movement to help verify especially as you get out. My match is also in a natural setting, lots of trees and shrubs to deal with, don't get too creative with scattering targets about with the backdrop it's a PITA making sure everybody understands the COF - spend way to much time explaining. I'm also thinking about the painting issue, first shooters have advantage but rusty targets in a woods setting can be a bitch to point out, maybe markers or survey tape?

 

[Eoddave27]

Reubenski, I’m really liking those target stands. I may be going to pick up some 3/8” rebar today. The fence posts are great but they require driving them in the ground with a mallet and are a lot harder to transport than the one you made would be. My targets go to and from the range with me so mobility is important.

 

[lash]

Targets: I've bought $300 of rimfire steel in the last 30 days to set up a field match in the mountains. I bought 3/16" AR400 steel from www.shootingtargets7.com Rimfire can't damage the steel; it will rust out before a .22lr will damage it. It's thin nature really helps with impact and carrying steel up steep hillsides. You can self-spot on a 16" circle at 400yds from the movement AND sound. They sell whole sizes from 1" to 4" and even sizes from 4 - 16".

Stands: We made stands from 3/8" rebar. Used a cutoff saw to cut it to length and a jig to bend them. Then a friend welded an additional leg on. Costs about $2 a stand is lighter to carry. We definitely did not want to use the conventional A frame rebar strap stands bc of the increased cost to build, complexity of setup, terrain limitations, and a double strap prevents target movement on impact and makes it harder to spot impact.

View attachment 7325846
View attachment 7325847

Target sizes: I first set up the longer distance targets using the sizes littlepod posted above and they were ridiculously hard. On a 6 target stage we were scoring 2's. We I now have a 3" at 130, 4" at 160, 6" at 200, 8" at 238, and 14" at 298. It's all wind. My rifle is very accurate. I laid down a .7" 10rd group at 100yds right before starting the match. We have a zero target at the first stage. I've won all but two NRL22 club matches I've shot over the last 14 months and my two buds that shot the field stages with me are very good shooter and are quite competitive. They beat me. Top score was 21 out of 42 available points and third place was me with a 16 out of 42. We were really amazed at how difficult the field match is. And in some cases were shooting 4 and 5 moa targets. We estimate it's roughly 75% more difficult than a club match. All the stages are off the belly except one.

View attachment 7325866

Course of fire: We modeled this from a field match we really enjoy shooting in Raton NM. It is a very simple COF and design. Each stage is 6 targets. One shot per, hit or miss move on. A lot of people struggle with the discipline required to not go to war on a target but this simple format is cleverly addictive. When you only get one shot per target dropping just one round is devastating. And it makes it more difficult to dial in your wind hold. For this format, you want to design the difficulty so your top shooters are scoring 90% of the available points in good wind conditions. In tough winds they'll be roughly 70%.

Painting or finding targets: Because of the location of where I set up my stages I didn't want the targets to be obvious. I began painting them OD Green but their natural color the way they're shipped is a dark brown and that's actually perfect. You can still see impacts through your scope. Finding the targets is another matter. We set them up in a troop line or a linear manner. It helps folks tremendously when they know there are always 6 targets in a mostly linear array. If they can't find a target it's usually the first or last target they're missing. Placing them in natural terrain with vegetation unpainted makes them fairly difficult to find. Both before shooting the stage and while transitioning engagements from target to target. Some stages are set up from 70 to 160yds, some from 130 to 400yds. 6 target stages also help keep the cost down. I estimate the average stage cost is $25. Last note: A highly adaptable bipod like the CkyePod is essential.

Hope that helps and have fun out there!

View attachment 7325893

This is the best post to answer the OPs questions. @reubenski has the experience to know what he’s talking about. You definitely don’t need anything thicker than 3/16” AR400 for the targets, except that I do use 1/4” for the 1” targets at 100 yards. That is not in a field style course though, so consider that.

Like said, allow for larger targets than you think if you plan on having people come back to try again. If you targets and course of fire don’t allow for more hits than misses by the best shooters and at least some hits on each stage for the worst shooters, the fun part is missing, imo.

 

[Eoddave27]

Thanks, I just tracked down a buddy with a welder I can barrow. I’m on my way to Home Depot right now for rebar.

 

[StrayDog]

Ruebenski, is that based on the Raton stage that tracks up the arroyo and then up the high berm into and between the two pines into the meadow behind?
You triggered some good memories...
Soooo jealous, great spot!

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Targets: I've bought $300 of rimfire steel in the last 30 days to set up a field match in the mountains. I bought 3/16" AR400 steel from www.shootingtargets7.com Rimfire can't damage the steel; it will rust out before a .22lr will damage it. It's thin nature really helps with impact and carrying steel up steep hillsides. You can self-spot on a 16" circle at 400yds from the movement AND sound. They sell whole sizes from 1" to 4" and even sizes from 4 - 16".

Stands: We made stands from 3/8" rebar. Used a cutoff saw to cut it to length and a jig to bend them. Then a friend welded an additional leg on. Costs about $2 a stand is lighter to carry. We definitely did not want to use the conventional A frame rebar strap stands bc of the increased cost to build, complexity of setup, terrain limitations, and a double strap prevents target movement on impact and makes it harder to spot impact.

View attachment 7325846
View attachment 7325847

Target sizes: I first set up the longer distance targets using the sizes littlepod posted above and they were ridiculously hard. On a 6 target stage we were scoring 2's. We I now have a 3" at 130, 4" at 160, 6" at 200, 8" at 238, and 14" at 298. It's all wind. My rifle is very accurate. I laid down a .7" 10rd group at 100yds right before starting the match. We have a zero target at the first stage. I've won all but two NRL22 club matches I've shot over the last 14 months and my two buds that shot the field stages with me are very good shooter and are quite competitive. They beat me. Top score was 21 out of 42 available points and third place was me with a 16 out of 42. We were really amazed at how difficult the field match is. And in some cases were shooting 4 and 5 moa targets. We estimate it's roughly 75% more difficult than a club match. All the stages are off the belly except one.

View attachment 7325866

Course of fire: We modeled this from a field match we really enjoy shooting in Raton NM. It is a very simple COF and design. Each stage is 6 targets. One shot per, hit or miss move on. A lot of people struggle with the discipline required to not go to war on a target but this simple format is cleverly addictive. When you only get one shot per target dropping just one round is devastating. And it makes it more difficult to dial in your wind hold. For this format, you want to design the difficulty so your top shooters are scoring 90% of the available points in good wind conditions. In tough winds they'll be roughly 70%.

Painting or finding targets: Because of the location of where I set up my stages I didn't want the targets to be obvious. I began painting them OD Green but their natural color the way they're shipped is a dark brown and that's actually perfect. You can still see impacts through your scope. Finding the targets is another matter. We set them up in a troop line or a linear manner. It helps folks tremendously when they know there are always 6 targets in a mostly linear array. If they can't find a target it's usually the first or last target they're missing. Placing them in natural terrain with vegetation unpainted makes them fairly difficult to find. Both before shooting the stage and while transitioning engagements from target to target. Some stages are set up from 70 to 160yds, some from 130 to 400yds. 6 target stages also help keep the cost down. I estimate the average stage cost is $25. Last note: A highly adaptable bipod like the CkyePod is essential.

Hope that helps and have fun out there!

View attachment 7325893

Sign me up!

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Unfortunately Im starting to take it all down to prepare our venue for the NRL22X match we got approved for. I might sneak it in to Raton sometimes this summer tho....

Please keep me abreast if at all possible. Both Raton and NRL22X. Yours is the first I've heard of, beyond the concept, in Colorado.

 

[arrow179]

Awesome course! Looks like a ton of fun!

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Lake George, Co. On the M Lazy C ranch. Very scenic. I think they're at 9000ft. They have bunkhouses, cabins, tent and RV sites on location. 13 September.

Will be there.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Lake George, Co. On the M Lazy C ranch. Very scenic. I think they're at 9000ft. They have bunkhouses, cabins, tent and RV sites on location. 13 September.

11 Mile a couple years ago.

 

[Thorny]

Check out these guys https://hangfasttargets.com I use their hanger, plate and a T post

 

[seafury]

@reubenski , Thank you for the write up! I ordered the targets you mentioned off amazon. Hopefully this weekend I can knock out some rebar stands. Thanks for the help guys. I think this course should come together nicely.

 

[Topstrap]

Might not work for your particular terrain but since I'm limited to 197 yards I sized the targets accordingly for each distance. Mix between 3/16" and 1/4" steel. PRS/NRL targets are usually larger. Some try to design their course for the better shooters. You want shooters to hit a lot of targets but have enough mixed in to challenge the better ones. Having multiple sizes worth different point values let the shooters gamble for more points or get a miss. Good luck.



Topstrap

 

[bunsen27]

@reubenski has a very good solution for setting up a field course. I did something similar several years back based of what another Hide member had posted up. My targets got a "J-hook" of either 3/8" or 1/4" round bar welded on the back and they go on a hanger stand that is also made of round bar bent into the shape of a "M". The smallest two will completely spin at 100yds so you will need to close the J-hook once attached to the stand. I don't have a pic of the stand on my phone but I can post one later. The targets are all 3/8" A36 from Magnum Target out of Arkansas. They normally have a base welded on as they are knock over style, but Magnum was happy to sell me targets without bases and unpainted for welding.