Help: Need to fill this gap (pics)

Strbrd22

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Minuteman
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Aug 1, 2024
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Western NY
Swapping out the muzzle device on my Badger 2013 since I’m not running it suppressed anymore. Went w an Area 419 hellfire. When I go to install it, I have a gap between the barrel (Rock Creek, Sendero contour) and the muzzle device. I ordered a Silencerco spacer but it doesn’t fit. Are there any fixes on the market? A shim or similar or am I going to have to get something custom cut? Thanks!
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Those threads look way longer than they should be. I would address that instead of trying to stack shims. What’s the length of the threads measured from the shoulder to the muzzle?
I will measure when I get home. I’m sure they are. This rifle was built by USMC PWS and the armorer perfectly threaded the barrel blank to the Silencerco brake and timed it. Might just have to go back to that brake…
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Well that’s pretty dumb to not thread it to standard specs. Being PWS really no recourse there. I would just pull the barrel and send it somewhere and have it shortened. If you’re looking to move to a brake for recoil reduction over the can the Silencerco brake isn’t going to be anywhere near as effective as the 419.
 
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Well that’s pretty dumb to not thread it to standard specs. Being PWS really no recourse there. I would just pull the barrel and send it somewhere and have it shortened. If you’re looking to move to a brake for recoil reduction over the can the Silencerco brake isn’t going to be anywhere near as effective as the 419.
Yeah the armorer that built my rifle also drove an ambulance to work with a christmas reindeer decoration strapped to the hood sooooo haha. But im not super worried about recoil reduction - its a 6.5 so its not bad, just could be better. Classic case of thinking I could just swap a part to make things better and here I am.... smh
 
The difference is that the 419 adaptor isn’t threaded entirely though, if you look at the end as you screw it on you will see them bottom out. It’s got about .620” of threads so that it has a bit of wiggle room over the .600 thread spec. Your muzzle is way over that by the looks of it. The silencer co just has the threads run the entire way through so it can’t bottom out. A bit less refined method but also doesn’t encounter the issue with this out of spec aspect.
 
The difference is that the 419 adaptor isn’t threaded entirely though, if you look at the end as you screw it on you will see them bottom out. It’s got about .620” of threads so that it has a bit of wiggle room over the .600 thread spec. Your muzzle is way over that by the looks of it. The silencer co just has the threads run the entire way through so it can’t bottom out. A bit less refined method but also doesn’t encounter the issue with this out of spec aspect.
correct. so my rifle was threaded to fit the silencerco specifically and it was timed so that it bottoms out and is flush at the same time. I wasnt aware of barrel thread specs but that seems to be my issue. Now, any ideas save for having my barrel cut to make it work or would a shim mess up the harmonics / create more problems than solutions?
 
You’ve got 4 options.

1. Put the Silencerco back on and run it.

2. Try to find another brake that will accommodate the depth.

3. Send it out to have threaded to spec.

4. Stack shims until you can seat the adaptor.

As previously stated, I would correct the out of spec threads so it’s not a problem now or in the future if you want to use something else.
 
You can have a gunsmith shorten the length of the threads and re-crown, but then you've got to send it/drop it off.

Or, you could measure the overall length of the threads, and I could make you a shim/spacer real quick and send it to you, no charge. It'll be 416 stainless in the white at that cost...
 
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All joking aside who cares

It’s a 6.5, shoot it out and when you get a new one get it squared away.

Spending 100$ to fill a gap that doesn’t add performance on a cartridge that is not lasting 3k rounds, is a waste of money if you look at it from that direction.

Now we all know looks are what counts but..just shoot it and have fun
 
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my Dasher barrel has the same thing. my gunsmith did it on purpose to allow the muzzle to sit flush with the first port of an ACE break. My thunderbeast break will not sit flush just like your issue. but my new Fat Bastard does just fine and muzzle sits flush with first port in it as well...
 
Some of the ASR mounts have a wall with relatively small through hole before reaching the first opening on the brakes or the opening into the flash hinder version. That wall is considerably deeper than 0.625" from the shoulder of the device.

They are now opening up that through hole but the earlier versions with smaller holes basically created a chamber between the muzzle and that wall that could only vent forward through the bore hole if mated to a shorter muzzle tenon.

This creates a chamber that could could catch and build up carbon crud at the crown. Since it is impossible to monitor the muzzle and false chamber without a borescope, I didn't want my customers to have a potential issue. My typical customers are running suppressed and keeping the ASR muzzle devices in place for the duration.

On those barrels I purposefully threaded a longer muzzle tenon to place the muzzle close to that smaller wall and through hole and eliminate the false chamber.

I am pretty sure I'm not the only one that did this before SiCo opened up that first hole.

There have been other brakes (mostly self timing with lock collars) that have callouts for tenon lengths longer than 0.625", so your muzzle is not necessarily "out of spec".

Your builder wasn't necessarily sloppy or incompetent. He was likely paying attention to what components he was working with.

Edited for spelling cause I type like shit from my phone.
 
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