Rifle Scopes Help w /new schmidt and bender PM II CCW DT
- Thread starter avidflyer
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Re: Help w /new schmidt and bender PM II CCW DT
You don't that is where it is... you just have to note it and drive on.
they don't adjust they are fixed.
You don't that is where it is... you just have to note it and drive on.
they don't adjust they are fixed.
Re: Help w /new schmidt and bender PM II CCW DT
Correct.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: avidflyer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so it doesnt matter where I slip the turret to it automatically resets?</div></div>
Correct.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: avidflyer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">so it doesnt matter where I slip the turret to it automatically resets?</div></div>
Re: Help w /new schmidt and bender PM II CCW DT
Get your 100 yd zero first. With the double turn turrets, once you make sure the indicator for 1st or 2nd revolution is black, you loosen the two set screws in the elevation turret then rotate the turret to set it to zero. I think what Lowlight meant was the double turn turrets all have the zero stop set so that the turret will go 6 clicks below zero.
Here's the manual for the S&B double turn turret scope
http://www.schmidtbender.com/images/downloads/PMIIInstructions2006Edition.pdf
Get your 100 yd zero first. With the double turn turrets, once you make sure the indicator for 1st or 2nd revolution is black, you loosen the two set screws in the elevation turret then rotate the turret to set it to zero. I think what Lowlight meant was the double turn turrets all have the zero stop set so that the turret will go 6 clicks below zero.
Here's the manual for the S&B double turn turret scope
http://www.schmidtbender.com/images/downloads/PMIIInstructions2006Edition.pdf
Re: Help w /new schmidt and bender PM II CCW DT
I have the same issue. So do you just loosen the set screws and spin the turret cap to zero or do you actually spin what's UNDER the cap? And this automatically resets? PLUS, if I have a 100 yard zero with a 40 moa base, which I do, the added moa is just there right? Not like I can spin the knobs any more. Thanks, and sorry but I'm a little new at this.
I have the same issue. So do you just loosen the set screws and spin the turret cap to zero or do you actually spin what's UNDER the cap? And this automatically resets? PLUS, if I have a 100 yard zero with a 40 moa base, which I do, the added moa is just there right? Not like I can spin the knobs any more. Thanks, and sorry but I'm a little new at this.
Re: Help w /new schmidt and bender PM II CCW DT
The zero stop is built into the cap, as is the stop at the upper limit of the elevation.
If you loosen the setscrews, decoupling the cap from the turret shaft, it will stop a little below zero of turn one, then the yellow indicator will lift as you pass into turn two, then it will stop at 12 mils of turn two (26 mils total).
The turret shaft has over 2 turns of rotation while the knob has a little less than 2 turns, so with the correct base, the knob will limit the travel at the upper and lower limits.
I would recommend you turn the elevation to the zero stop, loosen the setscrews, and turn the knob to 10 (the shaft will not turn) then snug the setscrews. Now the stop you feel at the lower limit of the elevation travel will be the erector bottoming in the scope tube. Sight in the scope at your base yardage then loosen the setscrews and rotate the knob to zero (again, the shaft will not turn) then lock up the setscrews.
If you left a lot of erector travel below the zero stop by using a base with insufficient cant, the erector will hit the tube at the top of the travel and you will not be able to get to 26 mils elevation.
I used a Spuhr 13 mil (44.4 MOA) mount that as I understand was designed for the SnB 5-25 PMII and the zero stop in the knob was at -1 mil before I zeroed. Since I zeroed my rifle at 100 yards, the rotation stops (zero stop) at -.5 mil, meaning I am bottoming the erector in the scope tube instead of hitting the zero stop built into the knob, but I get an entire 26 mils of elevation, and there's a few mils left at the top (the knob is limiting the elevation, not the erector).
Hope this helps.
Joe
The zero stop is built into the cap, as is the stop at the upper limit of the elevation.
If you loosen the setscrews, decoupling the cap from the turret shaft, it will stop a little below zero of turn one, then the yellow indicator will lift as you pass into turn two, then it will stop at 12 mils of turn two (26 mils total).
The turret shaft has over 2 turns of rotation while the knob has a little less than 2 turns, so with the correct base, the knob will limit the travel at the upper and lower limits.
I would recommend you turn the elevation to the zero stop, loosen the setscrews, and turn the knob to 10 (the shaft will not turn) then snug the setscrews. Now the stop you feel at the lower limit of the elevation travel will be the erector bottoming in the scope tube. Sight in the scope at your base yardage then loosen the setscrews and rotate the knob to zero (again, the shaft will not turn) then lock up the setscrews.
If you left a lot of erector travel below the zero stop by using a base with insufficient cant, the erector will hit the tube at the top of the travel and you will not be able to get to 26 mils elevation.
I used a Spuhr 13 mil (44.4 MOA) mount that as I understand was designed for the SnB 5-25 PMII and the zero stop in the knob was at -1 mil before I zeroed. Since I zeroed my rifle at 100 yards, the rotation stops (zero stop) at -.5 mil, meaning I am bottoming the erector in the scope tube instead of hitting the zero stop built into the knob, but I get an entire 26 mils of elevation, and there's a few mils left at the top (the knob is limiting the elevation, not the erector).
Hope this helps.
Joe
Re: Help w /new schmidt and bender PM II CCW DT
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DTA73</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have the same issue. So do you just loosen the set screws and spin the turret cap to zero or do you actually spin what's UNDER the cap? And this automatically resets?</div></div>
Contrary to what <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">bward</span></span> said to <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">avidflyer</span></span>, the DT doesn't automatically reset the Dial's "0" to be .6 MIL above the mechanical hard stop. The MIL version PMIIs' come from the factory with the "0" on the Turret Dial set at .6 MIL above "absolute" zero (the hard stop). However, you can loosen the (two) set screws on the Turret Dial <span style="font-weight: bold">(so you're only turning the DT Turret <span style="font-style: italic">Dial</span> itself)</span> and set the "0" where you want. It's just It's nice to leave a little "Down" travel below your Dial's set zero so you have a choice between dialing down or holding under just in case you need a little extra Down because you changed ammo lots, ect.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DTA73</div><div class="ubbcode-body">PLUS, if I have a 100 yard zero with a 40 moa base, which I do, the added moa is just there right? Not like I can spin the knobs any more. Thanks, and sorry but I'm a little new at this. </div></div>
I'm not sure what you mean by <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"...the added moa is just there right? Not like I can spin the knobs any more."</span></span> Are you saying that you can't turn the dial all the way to the end of the second revolution before the dial reaches the end (26 MILs')? I have a Tac Ops 40 MOA Two-Piece base on my Tac Ops X-Ray 51 .308 and I'm zeroed at 100 yards with SW 175 Standards (175 SMK). The (DT) Elevation Turret on the PMII 5-25X[56] on that rifle is set so the Turret's "0" is .5 MIL above "absolute zero" (the hard stop), and I still have 26.4 MILs' of reticle travel from that 100 yard zero.
How much travel are you getting before your Turret hits the DT Stop? If you're bottoming-out before you get to the end of the second revolution (26 MILs') or well before it with your 40 MOA base it sounds like you need to reset the DT turret. There's an actuator built into the underside of the PMII DT Turret that changes the "Window" color from Black to Yellow (and vice-versa) at the 13 MIL mark on the Dial. The actuator is engaged by a pin on the Erector at the beginning of the second turn.
To reset the DT Turret loosen the two (2) Dial set screws and rotate the Dial two (2) revolutions in the direction opposite of "Up". This will reset the DT Indicator. Then you just rotate the Dial back so that the "0" on the Dial coincides with the index mark (triangle) on the scope body and re-tighten the Dial's set screws. Done. And remember, you can set the Turret Dial right at the hard stop (absolute zero), or above or below it.
Keith
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DTA73</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have the same issue. So do you just loosen the set screws and spin the turret cap to zero or do you actually spin what's UNDER the cap? And this automatically resets?</div></div>
Contrary to what <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">bward</span></span> said to <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">avidflyer</span></span>, the DT doesn't automatically reset the Dial's "0" to be .6 MIL above the mechanical hard stop. The MIL version PMIIs' come from the factory with the "0" on the Turret Dial set at .6 MIL above "absolute" zero (the hard stop). However, you can loosen the (two) set screws on the Turret Dial <span style="font-weight: bold">(so you're only turning the DT Turret <span style="font-style: italic">Dial</span> itself)</span> and set the "0" where you want. It's just It's nice to leave a little "Down" travel below your Dial's set zero so you have a choice between dialing down or holding under just in case you need a little extra Down because you changed ammo lots, ect.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DTA73</div><div class="ubbcode-body">PLUS, if I have a 100 yard zero with a 40 moa base, which I do, the added moa is just there right? Not like I can spin the knobs any more. Thanks, and sorry but I'm a little new at this. </div></div>
I'm not sure what you mean by <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"...the added moa is just there right? Not like I can spin the knobs any more."</span></span> Are you saying that you can't turn the dial all the way to the end of the second revolution before the dial reaches the end (26 MILs')? I have a Tac Ops 40 MOA Two-Piece base on my Tac Ops X-Ray 51 .308 and I'm zeroed at 100 yards with SW 175 Standards (175 SMK). The (DT) Elevation Turret on the PMII 5-25X[56] on that rifle is set so the Turret's "0" is .5 MIL above "absolute zero" (the hard stop), and I still have 26.4 MILs' of reticle travel from that 100 yard zero.
How much travel are you getting before your Turret hits the DT Stop? If you're bottoming-out before you get to the end of the second revolution (26 MILs') or well before it with your 40 MOA base it sounds like you need to reset the DT turret. There's an actuator built into the underside of the PMII DT Turret that changes the "Window" color from Black to Yellow (and vice-versa) at the 13 MIL mark on the Dial. The actuator is engaged by a pin on the Erector at the beginning of the second turn.
To reset the DT Turret loosen the two (2) Dial set screws and rotate the Dial two (2) revolutions in the direction opposite of "Up". This will reset the DT Indicator. Then you just rotate the Dial back so that the "0" on the Dial coincides with the index mark (triangle) on the scope body and re-tighten the Dial's set screws. Done. And remember, you can set the Turret Dial right at the hard stop (absolute zero), or above or below it.
Keith
I'm having problems with this too on my PMII DT CCW. I'm using a Badger 22moa riser and I sighted the rifle in at 100. Now I put the 0/14 turret mark on my zero and after I tighten the turret down(making sure it's all black in the window)... I get the .6 mil hard stop turning CW, but when I turn CCW it only goes to 8.5 and stops. Which is only half of one revolution.
I think the DT actuator on the underneath of the turret is turned the opposite way of the pin coming out of the turret housing causing the turret to stop on it. The pin has to be able to index into the actuator.
The DT actuator was fine.
Something is amiss with the rifle/rail riser/scope ring/scope combination that results in a 100 yard zero only leaving 8.5 mils of travel before the erector bottoms in the scope tube.
Dwayne is sure the rail riser is installed in the right direction so we're leaning towards a problem from when the barrel nut was changed out to install a new FF handguard.
Nothing wrong with the scope.
Joe
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If this is a a 5-25×56 PMii it has 26mils total so you prob needed 3 mils to zero it,sounds about right.
-Reagan
Thanks Widowmaker, I was thinking that was the case but just wanted to be sure, this is the first S&B I’ve owned and am figuring it out!
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