Help with new Remington 700 - ejection

[Diver160651]

First let me start by saying that I have a several 700 clone custom actions and a few like Tikka.. But it has been years sense I bought a stock Remington 700. The last one I did was a 308 that ran great and shot great.

I have couple actions at Spartan getting rebarreled and figured maybe I should get a 6.5 22" 700 and toss it into one of my stocks or Chasis for an extra gun to run factory ammo. The plan seemed good, pop on a Huber, and extra XTR and a take off bipod and muzzle brake. ~ What could go wrong? I thought, this will be cheap using extra takeoffs.

Ok now my problems:
Issue 1: Prime ammo seem not to eject, it extracts fine, but it is almost like the Extractor plunger just forgets to eject it or the timing seems off. But, with Hornady, several grades, the brass ejects like nothing is wrong..

Any ideas?
Issue 2: Harmonics seem to be real acting on this barrel. It looks like a sendero type profile, Remington is calling "heavy". It is a 22" threaded barrel, the groups might be as small as 1/2 but then over 1" @100 for no reason I can tell with the Prime ammo that my match guns shoot at 1/2". I ran a few old A-max with the same results. Chasis, scope rings etc is all torqued and proven on other custom barreled actions.

• If I switch from a Hellfire brake to an lighter APA the POI changes by .6mils.​

• Pop the Magnetto speed and the groups shrink and stay much more consistent.​

​

I guess I could try other types of factory ammo. I really do not want to hand load for this gun, don't really want to rebarrel. I was hoping it would be a short range pig gun and maybe a loaner for a club match.. but not as it stands.

Any ideas on either of the issues? Are these new Remingtons this finicky?

 

[_Windrider_]

The new 700’s are. On the ejection, put a sako type ejector on it. As for the barrel, take it apart and put it back together. Probably over torqued from factory. Just a couple thoughts

 

[Diver160651]

The new 700’s are. On the ejection, put a sako type ejector on it. As for the barrel, take it apart and put it back together. Probably over torqued from factory. Just a couple thoughts

Sako ejector? Did you mean Sako or M16 type extractor? I have those on my Deviants, but extraction seem fine, it is the ejection. Well, maybe it goes hand in hand, IDK.

I had a Savage 338 barrel come loose while shooting, but never thought about a barrel being to tight.. Good thing to check I guess.

BTW I did make sure the brakes were not over torqued.

 

[_Windrider_]

Sako ejector? Did you mean Sako or M16 type extractor? I have those on my Deviants, but extraction seem fine, it is the ejection. Well, maybe it goes hand in hand, IDK.

I had a Savage 338 barrel come loose while shooting, but never thought about a barrel being to tight.. Good thing to check I guess.

BTW I did make sure the brakes were not over torqued.

If it’s anything like my RPR, it’s at too tight. I bought a AAC -SD a few years ago. Shot like shit. Tore it apart and put it back together in a new chassis. Shot better but not great. It’s one of my next projects to do.

 

[JMGlasgow]

My RR code Remington throws empty brass pretty far. It'll clear the bench if I let it, sometimes landing on the bench next to me.

Is the ejector plunger easy to push with your finger? You may have a weak spring.

 

[Precision Underground]

I’m trying to imagine how it’s extracting but not ejecting. Is it just extracting and falling out or extracting and staying on top of the mag? Is the case(empty neck)being pressed to the ejection side as it slides back if you slowly pull the bolt back?

 

[Supersubes]

Extraction isn’t your issue, so I wouldn’t screw with that first.

With the prime ammo, what exactly is it doing? It sticks in the bolt face, falls out of the bolt face and lays in the mag, weak ejection? If there was a difference in the brass, it would be evident. You can measure the thickness and diameter of the rim and compare with the Hornady. There’s really no timing involved in ejection. The ejector should just push all the time, and kick the case out when it fully clears the port. My guess would be that it’s slipping out from under the extractor just as the case starts to pivot.


I hate hate hate Sako extractors on Remington’s. If it turns out to be the extractor not liking the shape of the prime rim, id swap it for another OEM extractor. Brownells has them for $15 I think.

 

[Diver160651]

Thanks guys I ordered the extractor this morning, just to try but it was backordered. I lubed up the ejector plunger. No real difference. I guess I could try to polish it up.

The prime brass just follows the bolt back and wiggles a bit, then says on top of the mag. Once in a while will eject. The two types of Hornday seem to fly out like normal.

Most disturbing is the sensitivity to barrel harmonics, and the crappy groups.

I wanted a cheap maybe 3/4 min gun, that didn’t happen

 

[wade2big]

A rifle that will shoot less than 2”will be more than effective at 300yards or less as a hunting rifle. A 3/4 Moya rifle isn’t necessary to make good effective hits at most hunting distances.

Don’t shoot prime ammunition and that problem is solved. Find a good soft point bullet that shoots under a couple inches and go with it. That should be easy enough to do.

 

[Diver160651]

A rifle that will shoot less than 2”will be more than effective at 300yards or less as a hunting rifle. A 3/4 Moya rifle isn’t necessary to make good effective hits at most hunting distances.

Don’t shoot prime ammunition and that problem is solved. Find a good soft point bullet that shoots under a couple inches and go with it. That should be easy enough to do.

thanks..

I've learned to think just the opposite.. Match shooting has been an eye opener. I don't know a single person who can shoot the same angular measure on every shot like they can at 100, once you add wind and pressure.

I am not that 2 MOA shooter @ 100 with no wind, that thinks he can harvest under pressure, wind and uncertain range. Besides 2MOA and you're not having any fun at a field or positional match by the time you add the other stuff, even if the gone was loaned to you.

 

[wade2big]

thanks..

I've learned to think just the opposite.. Match shooting has been an eye opener. I don't know a single person who can shoot the same angular measure on every shot like they can at 100, once you add wind and pressure.

I am not that 2 MOA shooter @ 100 with no wind, that thinks he can harvest under pressure, wind and uncertain range. Besides 2MOA and you're not having any fun at a field or positional match by the time you add the other stuff, even if the gone was loaned to you.

I missed the last part in your original post where you said you wanted it to be a loaner gun in a match. What I said doesnt really apply for that application.

I focused on the hunting part and used 2 moa as an example. Im sure your rifle would shoot tighter than that with hunting ammo. I hpe you get it all sorted out.

 

[D2junky]

It’s talking to u..I’d put a pressure point on the barrel and suspect an ejector spring needs replacement or has a piece of something fouling it.....lubed or not.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

What you have is a typical off the shelf 700. I have a Sako mod on one and it will eject cases into the windage turret. You can call it harmonics but the OEM barrel sucks because it is cheap ass machined shit. Fix the ejector problem and get a new aftermarket barrel just to get it shooting properly. It is under warranty if that means anything. As for fixing the ejector just replace the rod and spring. This is a fairly fundamental new 700 troubleshoot.

 

[Precision Underground]

Thanks guys I ordered the extractor this morning, just to try but it was backordered. I lubed up the ejector plunger. No real difference. I guess I could try to polish it up.

The prime brass just follows the bolt back and wiggles a bit, then says on top of the mag. Once in a while will eject. The two types of Hornday seem to fly out like normal.

Most disturbing is the sensitivity to barrel harmonics, and the crappy groups.

I wanted a cheap maybe 3/4 min gun, that didn’t happen

You should be able to get an empty case locked into the bolt and then slide it back slowly to watch and see what is happening. My guess is the ejector is losing grip on the rim before the extractor can fling it out.

As for the accuracy, is it still in the original stock? If so my guess is it is stock pressure or stock induced harmonics. Are the bad groups all over the place or double grouping?

 

[Deleted member 10043]

What are harmonics?

 

[Diver160651]

I can just go get another barrel
$360 shipped for another Bartlien, $350 to Chamber, $150 to thread, $200 to Cerakote, $250 to true the action, $250 for an M16 and bolt stop.. what is that? $1,500 (it already has takeoffs of a 1k-stock, $300 trigger, $300 bipod, $scope, rail).

I guess I am kicking myself just hoping my cheap $600 loaner and occasional hunter doesn’t end up with $4500 of hardware.

For what it is worth, the (“stock” barreled action) poped on an extra Huber trigger, then was dropped into one of my match chassis. I used both a 419 and APA brake I had. The scope, Atlas, etc also from another working gun.

Other than the ejector not working only with the prime. I think the thing that had me scratching my head the most, is that the magnetto speed made all the ammo I tried, group way better. The brakes (a bit different in weight) acted like a large heavy can in that between them there was a .6 mil POI change.

I’ve seen POI changes by hanging a magnto speed, but never a groups go from 1.25” shrink to 1/2”. I can’t really run around with the darn thing attached.

I just figured something other than the rifling/Bore seems to be in play if it shoots ok with the magneto speed, but not without. This with 3 different factory loads.

Again just hoping not to end up with basically a full blown custom, just to loan. But not really interested in loaning something that doesn’t shoot.

 

[Bulletsmith]

You may have a little bit of cartridge brass that is jamming the ejector and causing it to stick, thus causing the cartridge to stay on the bolt face. You can remove the ejector and chamfer the ejector hole, that should solve your problem.

 

[Diver160651]

You may have a little bit of cartridge brass that is jamming the ejector and causing it to stick, thus causing the cartridge to stay on the bolt face. You can remove the ejector and chamfer the ejector hole, that should solve your problem.

Thanks - I am going to try that then what Culpeper said, I have parts backordered at Brownels..

Now, if someone just has an old nonworking magneto speed I can permanently attach.. the gun might work

 

[JMGlasgow]

How does it shoot with a bare muzzle?

If you're getting a new barrel, why not a Criterion Prefit? Instead of cerakote, you could use the spray can durapark

 

[Precision Underground]

Thanks - I am going to try that then what Culpeper said, I have parts backordered at Brownels..

Now, if someone just has an old nonworking magneto speed I can permanently attach.. the gun might work

I would advise hanging a bayonet from the barrel. You will look like a bad ass and the gun will shoot. Win, win.