Help with round not going off....Bighorn SR3 & prefit barrel 224 Valkyrie

[jl3216]

I've never set up a barrel nut before. I do have go/ no go gages. I believe the headspace is set per the gages.
I built a few handloads to see what we could do. The first one shot, no problems. The second round would not go off and the bolt could not extract it from the chamber. I went home and tapped that round out with a cleaning rod and the primer has absolutely no dimple from the firing on. I then confirmed the go / no go again.
I have no idea what is going on. Any suggestions?

 

[Supersubes]

Did the extractor rip the rim off the case, or was the rim not under the extractor and the bolt opened easily?

 

[jl3216]

The rim was fine. It appears the bolt never grabbed the case head. Bolt lift and removal was very easy. The round was fed into the chamber from a magazine though....

 

[Jcmar15]

You either have a brass sizing issue, or your something may have come lose causing your headspace to change. There could be something else but I’d check both of those things first.

 

[celltech]

Let's hear how you set your headspace.... And if you chamber an empty shell by hand, and then close the bolt on it, will it grab the rim and extract?

 

[hereinaz]

When you say "could not extract" was that because the bolt extractor would not grab the rim and it cycled like it was empty?

Sounds like headspace is off, chamber is off or maybe you have the wrong bolt face?

 

[Steel head]

op, measure headspace of fired round vs un fired.

 

[spife7980]

When you say "could not extract" was that because the bolt extractor would not grab the rim and it cycled like it was empty?

Sounds like headspace is off, chamber is off or maybe you have the wrong bolt face?

That’s my first thought.
OP, are you sure this rifle is even set up for success or do you have the wrong parts in it?

 

[b6graham]

did you slide the headspace gauges up into the extractor or put them in front?

 

[Steel head]

did you slide the headspace gauges up into the extractor or put them in front?

This is what I think the issue is.

 

[jl3216]

Thank you all for the help, I appreciate it!
I screwed the barrel all the way until it hit the action, the un-screwed until the go gauge would close and the no go would not. I do have the 224 Valkyrie bolt head from Bighorn installed.
This is brand new brass. If I insert an unloaded case into the chamber, the bolt will close but it will not extract it. By that, I mean it appears the bolt never has control of the case. This is a Bighorn action though, which is a controlled feed action. Will it grab the case if I insert it by hand? Does the action need to strip it from the mag to gain purchase?
I do not know which bushing to use to measure headspace but I've attached a picture. Looks like i have an Ackley!

 

[Supersubes]

Understand what b6graham posted above. You may have set headspace off of gauges that weren’t under the extractor. You may have a ton of headspace now. In fact you may be able see this headspace by comparing your fired case to the unfired cases. This isn’t that hard to do if you aren’t sliding the gauge under the extractor first.


edit: bro, look at those two cases. You can’t see the issue? You just turned your valk into a 22-250! You should go buy a lottery ticket because you didn’t blow your face off. There was a lot of unsupported case out of the chamber when that went off.

 

[jl3216]

I just slid the gauges in. I did not insert directly into the bolt! I bet that's exactly what my problem is. I'll try that and report back.

 

[b6graham]

I just slid the gauges in. I did not insert directly into the bolt! I bet that's exactly what my problem is. I'll try that and report back.

this is exactly what your problem is. the extractor will not cam over a headscape gauge

you must push the headspace gauges up into the bolthead like would happen from a magazine with controlled round feed

 

[Steel head]

this is exactly what your problem is. the extractor will not cam over a headscape gauge

you must push the headspace gauges up into the bolthead like would happen from a magazine with controlled round feed

 

[Threadcutter308]

Thank you all for the help, I appreciate it!
I screwed the barrel all the way until it hit the action, the un-screwed until the go gauge would close and the no go would not. I do have the 224 Valkyrie bolt head from Bighorn installed.
This is brand new brass. If I insert an unloaded case into the chamber, the bolt will close but it will not extract it. By that, I mean it appears the bolt never has control of the case. This is a Bighorn action though, which is a controlled feed action. Will it grab the case if I insert it by hand? Does the action need to strip it from the mag to gain purchase?
I do not know which bushing to use to measure headspace but I've attached a picture. Looks like i have an Ackley!

It sounds like you DON’T know what caliber/cartridge the barrel is chambered for, yet you are “reloading” for it. You are making fundamental, serious, and possibly injurious or fatal mistakes.

Please stop, find a good gunsmith, take everything to him. Have him sort it out and explain it in detail to you.

Be safe.

 

[hereinaz]

You MUST slip the gauge under the extractor rim.

You basically headspaced off the front of the extractor, which is well in front of the bolt face. The one you set off was a miracle it went off and a miracle you didn't get a face full of brass. It probably slipped under the extractor when it came out of the magazine, otherwise the firing pin would never reach the case.

You also MUST remove the ejector... edited, wrongly said extractor.

 

[DuneBoer]

Is this still available?

 

[Lapuapalooza]

The first thing I do when I tackle a new project is... research.
The second thing I do is ask people with more knowledge then myself.
The third thing I do is slowly execute my plan as a rookie...

sounds like you have you order of operation backwards... you are one lucky dude, dude.

 

[powdahound76]

Is this still available?

Not Appreciated!!!

OP, you are lucky. Go buy a lotto ticket.
And as my friend Threadcutter advised, stop and have someone else do this.

 

[Spblademaker]

OP, how’s your insurance policy? Does it cover optical too?

 

[1J04]

I've never set up a barrel nut before. I do have go/ no go gages. I believe the headspace is set per the gages.
I built a few handloads to see what we could do. The first one shot, no problems. The second round would not go off and the bolt could not extract it from the chamber. I went home and tapped that round out with a cleaning rod and the primer has absolutely no dimple from the firing on. I then confirmed the go / no go again.
I have no idea what is going on. Any suggestions?

You honestly have no idea what these people are saying, do you? You're being told, hell, people are basically pleading with you to STOP! You are over your head, and I don't think you fully understand how lucky you are to still actually have a head. It's not pretty looking at someone who's face, neck, hands, and forearms have been literally torn and blown apart from an exploding Rifle.

Please have a Professional address your issue before you run out of luck.

 

[Bender]

Thank you all for the help, I appreciate it!
I screwed the barrel all the way until it hit the action, the un-screwed until the go gauge would close and the no go would not. I do have the 224 Valkyrie bolt head from Bighorn installed.
This is brand new brass. If I insert an unloaded case into the chamber, the bolt will close but it will not extract it. By that, I mean it appears the bolt never has control of the case. This is a Bighorn action though, which is a controlled feed action. Will it grab the case if I insert it by hand? Does the action need to strip it from the mag to gain purchase?
I do not know which bushing to use to measure headspace but I've attached a picture. Looks like i have an Ackley!

 

[Steel head]

The first thing I do when I tackle a new project is... research.
The second thing I do is ask people with more knowledge then myself.
The third thing I do is slowly execute my plan as a rookie...

sounds like you have you order of operation backwards... you are one lucky dude, dude.

This is huge!
I’m totally a follower of this advice for my projects.
1911 tigger job
Assembly of AR’s.
Assembly of bolt actions.
Work on heavy equipment and vehicles.
Whatever.

Just a bit of research prior makes a giant difference.

 

[Threadcutter308]

It sounds like you DON’T know what caliber/cartridge the barrel is chambered for, yet you are “reloading” for it. You are making fundamental, serious, and possibly injurious or fatal mistakes.

Please stop, find a good gunsmith, take everything to him. Have him sort it out and explain it in detail to you.

Be safe.

And, a very serious cautionary note......

Everyone that has responded to you sincerely has your best interests and safety at heart. It might look like you are being attacked, but you are not. No one here wants to see you get hurt. That's the bottom line.

The challenge in seeking advice of this type on the Internet is that of accuracy. Accuracy of the information that you are being told AND the accuracy by which YOU understand the information that you are being given. There is a pretty large margin for error, all things considered. This is why I strongly recommend that you find a good gunsmith, take it to him and have him explain all of the details to you. There is no better way to learn and retain that knowledge than to have someone physically show you and explain the details to you.

General comment; This situation is exactly why I think Pre-fits are just not a good idea. But, it's a market driven demand, so, here we are.

 

[sgtsmmiii]

You MUST slip the gauge under the extractor rim.

You basically headspaced off the front of the extractor, which is well in front of the bolt face. The one you set off was a miracle it went off and a miracle you didn't get a face full of brass. It probably slipped under the extractor when it came out of the magazine, otherwise the firing pin would never reach the case.

You also MUST remove a spring loaded extractor ejector.

 

[Krob95]

This is why I paid 100 bucks to have my barrel nut set up on my old tikka done by the gunsmith. I’m not pretty by any stretch of the imagination, but I would be a lot uglier with a face full of brass and probably be single. You don’t want to be the idiot that killed or seriously maimed himself by accident because you wanted to DIY it.

Threadcutter is right tho. Take it to someone who knows that they’re doing. See if they can maybe even explain the process if they’re kind enough. Safety is paramount in this game.

 

[hlee]

 

[Threadcutter308]

The one you set off was a miracle it went off and a miracle you didn't get a face full of brass.

And.........if the one that did go bang was sitting on the front of the extractor, how the hell did the bolt lugs lock up with the action ? And, how would the striker make contact with the primer ? I can't see that happening.

I'm thinking a "Smaller" (shorter)(wrong) cartidge got inserted/fired on the first round.

In the context of this conversation, this picture (from above) scares me;

 

[Threadcutter308]

This is why I paid 100 bucks to have my barrel nut set up on my old tikka done by the gunsmith. I’m not pretty by any stretch of the imagination, but I would be a lot uglier with a face full of brass and probably be single. You don’t want to be the idiot that killed or seriously maimed himself by accident because you wanted to DIY it.

Threadcutter is right tho. Take it to someone who knows that they’re doing. See if they can maybe even explain the process if they’re kind enough. Safety is paramount in this game.

Money well spent, great call !

 

[Steel head]

This is why I paid 100 bucks to have my barrel nut set up on my old tikka done by the gunsmith. I’m not pretty by any stretch of the imagination, but I would be a lot uglier with a face full of brass and probably be single. You don’t want to be the idiot that killed or seriously maimed himself by accident because you wanted to DIY it.

Threadcutter is right tho. Take it to someone who knows that they’re doing. See if they can maybe even explain the process if they’re kind enough. Safety is paramount in this game.

I’m very much a do it myself if I can but I’m cautious and respect my limitations.

 

[Lapuapalooza]

This is why I paid 100 bucks to have my barrel nut set up on my old tikka done by the gunsmith. I’m not pretty by any stretch of the imagination, but I would be a lot uglier with a face full of brass and probably be single. You don’t want to be the idiot that killed or seriously maimed himself by accident because you wanted to DIY it.

Threadcutter is right tho. Take it to someone who knows that they’re doing. See if they can maybe even explain the process if they’re kind enough. Safety is paramount in this game.

It must have been really painful to admit that Threadcutter was right on a public forum. I always assumed that is why LL gave us the “like” button. It is subject to interpretation from there.

 

[hlee]

And.........if the one that did go bang was sitting on the front of the extractor, how the hell did the bolt lugs lock up with the action ? And, how would the striker make contact with the primer ? I can't see that happening.

I'm thinking a "Smaller" (shorter)(wrong) cartidge got inserted/fired on the first round.

In the context of this conversation, this picture (from above) scares me;

View attachment 7486009

It's a controlled round feed action. The bolt stripped the round off of the magazine and it was held against the bolt face by the extractor.

 

[Threadcutter308]

It's a controlled round feed action. The bolt stripped the round off of the magazine and it was held against the bolt face by the extractor.

Yes, I understand that, we are in complete agreement. My conjecture above was saying that because it is a CRF, there is no way the bolt could lock up without the case head being underneath (not in front of) the extractor. The same is true with the striker. It wouldn't have been able to contact the primer unless the case head was underneath the extractor.

 

[celltech]

You may need to full length size that piece of brass...not sure a neck size only will cut it...

 

[hlee]

Yes, I understand that, we are in complete agreement. My conjecture above was saying that because it is a CRF, there is no way the bolt could lock up without the case head being underneath (not in front of) the extractor. The same is true with the striker. It wouldn't have been able to contact the primer unless the case head was underneath the extractor.

If he dropped the go gauge into the chamber and closed the action, without removing the extractor, there would be room for the bolt to close on a round in front of the extractor...

 

[hereinaz]

Thanks, yes, remove ejector. Edited post

 

[hereinaz]

You may need to full length size that piece of brass...not sure a neck size only will cut it...

That case will have a case head separation very soon, is my guess.

Nail it to a board with a big "Thanks, God" as a reminder...

 

[Threadcutter308]

If he dropped the go gauge into the chamber and closed the action, without removing the extractor, there would be room for the bolt to close on a round in front of the extractor...

Hi, just for clarification, I went and looked. It appears that the Bighorn CRF extractor will retract and slip over the case/gauge head on bolt closure. I was thinking M70 type claw extractor.

So, yes, you were/are correct.

 

[b6graham]

Hi, just for clarification, I went and looked. It appears that the Bighorn CRF extractor will retract and slip over the case/gauge head on bolt closure. I was thinking M70 type claw extractor.

So, yes, you were/are correct.

Zermatt extractors don't typically slip over headspace guages. Without causing damage.

Also, no need to remove the ejector as its mechanical and will have no impact on headspace