Gunsmithing Help with Tikka bolt handle

[NY700]

Recently picked up a tikka Tac A1. I am trying to put a Stark AInstyle bolt handle in it. This is my third tikka so I fealtnprety confident however this is my first T3x. The others were older.

I’m not aware of any major change but maybe I’m missing something. I can not get the bolt out.

I took the shroud off but the handle won’t release I’ve been able to move it about 1/8”

I tried soaking it kroil. I tried putting it in the freezer, I used a plastic and a brass punch. Got it to move just a bit.

Any ideas?

Thanks

 

[GH41]

 

[NY700]

Unfortunately I’m already at that part. The issue I’m have is the bolt handle is so tight I can’t get it out

 

[MarinePMI]

Might try using a pistol sight drifter (or some home made version of it) to basically jack screw the thing out.

When using a brass punch, are you using a metal hammer (and not a soft faced mallet)? You need the sharp impact of metal on metal to break the hold of the dovetail.

BTW, what are you using to keep the striker held back? In your picture I don't see anything (like an allen key) holding the striker back away from the dovetail.

 

[Stooxie]

Might try using a pistol sight drifter (or some home made version of it) to basically jack screw the thing out.

When using a brass punch, are you using a metal hammer (and not a soft faced mallet)? You need the sharp impact of metal on metal to break the hold of the dovetail.

BTW, what are you using to keep the striker held back? In your picture I don't see anything (like an allen key) holding the striker back away from the dovetail.

I would absolutely NOT do that. It is NOT a compression situation, where the dovetail is under any kind of strain. There are two little ears from the firing pin assembly that hold it securely in place and once you relieve the spring pressure (a la the video) it should fall right out.

The machining is pretty tight, sometimes I've found that it took exactly the right angle to have it slip out. Also, I use a pair of flat bladed pliers that just happens to fit the gap perfectly to twist the firing pin. You have to relieve that pressure for the handle to come off. I guess you're already familiar with that if you've done it before.

I would not force it.

-Stooxie

 

[MarinePMI]

I get what you're saying, but in the past I've had to jack screw two of them out due to the tight fit (it absolutely was a compression situation). The first thing though, is getting the tension off the bolt handle (which it doesn't appear in the picture, he has done).

 

[adamjma]

I get what you're saying, but in the past I've had to jack screw two of them out due to the tight fit (it absolutely was a compression situation). The first thing though, is getting the tension off the bolt handle (which it doesn't appear in the picture, he has done).

Agreed. I just got my Sterk handle and it is meticulously machined but fits snug, so you are definitely going to have to get any tension off the system in order to fit it. I use a small punch between the cocking indicator and the rest of the works to give me something to lever on during the re-install. I did find that pressing slightly on the indicator helped lower the tension from the breech end of the firing pin setup that was causing the binding for me.

 

[TexasUplander]

If a brass punch won't do it, something is definitely wrong!

 

[northern50]

I get what you're saying, but in the past I've had to jack screw two of them out due to the tight fit (it absolutely was a compression situation). The first thing though, is getting the tension off the bolt handle (which it doesn't appear in the picture, he has done).

I agree. Follow the video and if needed use a drift and tap it out. The first one I did required a light tap to remove, the second slid right out. Difference in tolerances that's all.

 

[derek1ee]

It looks like you rotated the back by hand, without using an allen key (as shown in the video). What I've found was that if I use an allen key to thick or too thin, it makes it very hard to remove the handle. So maybe try a few different allen keys you have on hand and see if that helps.

 

[JGR1953]

You can tell from his picture that he has decocked the firing pin.
He's not going to be doing anything to it until he resets the firing pin back to the upper shelf out of the deep groove so he can even get an allen wrench/punch put in it to properly release the pressure....

 

[texascavediver]

I had the same problem as the OP with my CTR bolt handle. The OP never came back to indicate whether he got the bolt handle removed and if he did how he did it.

I watched numerous videos on how to replace the bolt handle, tried several different size allen keys and a small screwdriver to release the spring, and tapped on the bolt handle at the bolt, with a small rubber mallet, but the bolt handle was super tight and wouldn't budge. I called Beretta this morning and the CS agent put me on hold for awhile and came back and said he went to talk to one of their gunsmiths; his response was, "you shouldn't ever need to remove the bolt handle or take out the firing pin," to which I called his BS and told him he had to be kidding. He said I could send it in and they would look at it.

Anyway, I or rather a gunsmith, got the bolt handle out this afternoon. I took it to a local gunsmith who used a small screwdriver instead of an allen key, (BTW, the Tikka manual indicates to use a small screwdriver instead of an allen key to release the spring). He then put the knob in a vise and used a small rubber mallet to tap the bolt until the handle came out, or rather, the bolt came off of the handle. I took quite a number of rather aggressive taps, but it came out. The new Sterk swept handle slid right in without any resistance at all.

 

[Stooxie]

Yes, I think the key is not to let the firing pin go in AT ALL. I use a flat blade pair of pliers that happen to be the exact width of the gap. That way the tension on those two little ears is completely relieved.

-Stooxie

 

[serevince]

Glad you got it out.

This and other videos do a great job of showing the steps. Generally it's pretty easy. However it does have to be a absolutely straight pull to remove the handle, and the direction is deceiving. I've found with the geometry of the bolt handle it's very easy to accidentally apply a shearing force that binds up the surfaces. I generally wiggle the heck out of it and it as I pull and it it'll give up. The bolt doesn't actually "wiggle" I just happen to hit the sweet spot in directional pull during my flailing and it incrementally comes out. Works for me!

Some new handles will require a light stoning to get them to fit. I use a diamond sharpening stone, since it's handy and effective.

 

[thaifighter]

Had same issue and trying a thinner allen key did the trick... after reassembly the bolt wouldn't close. after removing the bolt and taking out the handle and replacing it twice I realized the stock trigger spring that had gone missing when I installed the YoDave had landed in the action and was tucked neatly up against a locking lug. Got lots of bolt handle replacement practice that evening...

 

[marquesmarque]

I had a lot of trouble getting the handle out for my CTR so posting here what finally worked in case it helps future people. I tried a few times a day for several days, applying penetrating oil, wiggling, putting the handle in a vice and whacking the bolt, trying to get a punch to have enough purchase on the handle to be able to hit it, etc. I tried a bunch of different sizes of allen keys. I tried the technique from one video where they don't use an allen key at all, but floated the firing pin way back on the little tab piece instead.

Here's what finally worked:

Use an allen key or screw driver that's 3mm. The exact size is important. The ones I tried bigger and smaller even by .5mm didn't work. With the firing pin about as far forward as it'll go with that 3mm spacer in place, just pull them apart as hard you can. Just full gorilla, but no tools needed. That got it to move juuuuuust enough that I could get the head of my tiniest flathead into the gap that opened up, and start gently levering it the rest of the way.

The problem is you can apply a ton of force but if it's not lined up just right internally, you're not gonna get it started. And on these super sticky ones like it seems some of us have, you can't just wiggle everything around to find the right alignment, because you also need to apply a absolute ton of force to get it started.

Good luck.

 

[powdahound76]

@reubenski - 2.5 yrs is closer from Dec of 18, but I get it.
Close enough for govt work….

 

[Gowest]

Here's what finally worked:

Use an allen key or screw driver that's 3mm. The exact size is important. The ones I tried bigger and smaller even by .5mm didn't work. With the firing pin about as far forward as it'll go with that 3mm spacer in place, just pull them apart as hard you can. Just full gorilla, but no tools needed. That got it to move juuuuuust enough that I could get the head of my tiniest flathead into the gap that opened up, and start gently levering it the rest of the way.

The problem is you can apply a ton of force but if it's not lined up just right internally, you're not gonna get it started. And on these super sticky ones like it seems some of us have, you can't just wiggle everything around to find the right alignment, because you also need to apply a absolute ton of force to get it started.

Good luck.

I know this is an old post but glad I found it.

 

[carbonbased]

What I’ve done with reluctant handles is hold the bolt in my left hand over something soft with the bolt handle pointing straight down. Then I tap UP on the bolt near the handle with a plastic-faced hammer.

I don’t hit it hard, but a little firm. Holding the bolt over something soft is so if the handle falls off you don’t eff it up.