Help with XTR III, can't set zero stop .5 mils below zero???

[cuz]

I don't "think" I'm doing anything wrong, but I can't seem to set the zero stop on my Burris XTR III 3.3-18x50 scope to anything but 0. After the scope is zeroed at 50 yards, I wanted to set the zero stop to go .5 mils past zero so I could dial down for shots as close as 25 yards. It seems that I only have the option of setting it to 0, and nothing else. Is that right? I also like the idea of dialing down past zero, then coming up to zero, so I'm always dialing up to a setting.

Can someone please confirm if I'm doing something wrong? WTF?

 

[Kiba]

XTR3 has the zero stop fixed at zero, it's not user adjustable. I was also hoping the zero stop on my XTR3i 3-18 was set to -0.5, but that's not the case.

XTR Pro can choose between 0 and -0.4 for the zero stop by flipping the zero stop piece in the inner elevation turret.

Since the XTR3 has a translating turret that moves up and down as you dial, if you want to dial down a bit below zero, you have to cheat and bypass the zero stop by lifting the elevation turret a bit before you snug it down so the zero stop pin will clear and you can dial down a bit below zero before the turret bottoms out on the housing.

If you want to test this set the elevation to zero against the stop, then loosen the elevation turret screws and lift the elevation turret about 0.040" up, then snug the screws down. This should allow you to dial a bit below zero before the turret bottoms out.

Unfortunately the only way to set a hard zero stop at -0.5 would be to drill a new hole to relocate the zero stop pin in the turret or scope housing.

 

[FredHammer]

I don't "think" I'm doing anything wrong, but I can't seem to set the zero stop on my Burris XTR III 3.3-18x50 scope to anything but 0. After the scope is zeroed at 50 yards, I wanted to set the zero stop to go .5 mils past zero so I could dial down for shots as close as 25 yards. It seems that I only have the option of setting it to 0, and nothing else. Is that right? I also like the idea of dialing down past zero, then coming up to zero, so I'm always dialing up to a setting.

Can someone please confirm if I'm doing something wrong? WTF?

I don't understand why you want to dial down for closer shots as getting closer to the target, with optical offset, already has you printing lower. Let's say you understand something I don't. To your question, you would have to set the zero at 25yds at the zero stop and remember to adjust up to hit the 50 zero and then start all your dope for the longer ranges.

 

[cuz]

XTR3 has the zero stop fixed at zero, it's not user adjustable. I was also hoping the zero stop on my XTR3i 3-18 was set to -0.5, but that's not the case.

XTR Pro can choose between 0 and -0.4 for the zero stop by flipping the zero stop piece in the inner elevation turret.

Since the XTR3 has a translating turret that moves up and down as you dial, if you want to dial down a bit below zero, you have to cheat and bypass the zero stop by lifting the elevation turret a bit before you snug it down so the zero stop pin will clear and you can dial down a bit below zero before the turret bottoms out on the housing.

If you want to test this set the elevation to zero against the stop, then loosen the elevation turret screws and lift the elevation turret about 0.040" up, then snug the screws down. This should allow you to dial a bit below zero before the turret bottoms out.

Unfortunately the only way to set a hard zero stop at -0.5 would be to drill a new hole to relocate the zero stop pin in the turret or scope housing.

Thanks Kiba,
I think with this XTR III the best solution is to zero the scope at 35 yards so all dialing will always be up at any range.

I think I’ll give that a try and see how it goes.

 

[B y r o n]

If I understand the instructions correctly, zero the scope at 25 yds. Once zeroed adjust the elevation turret to .5 down instead of "0" and lock it in place. Once this is done it will allow you to dial up to "0" for 50 yards and also allow you to dial down to ".5" down for 25 yds.

 

[FredHammer]

If I understand the instructions correctly, zero the scope at 25 yds. Once zeroed adjust the elevation turret to .5 down instead of "0" and lock it in place. Once this is done it will allow you to dial up to "0" for 50 yards and also allow you to dial down to ".5" down for 25 yds.

You would zero at 25yds and set zero stop at 25yds. Then you would dial up to the 50yd zero. Like I had previously stated.

 

[FredHammer]

Is this a pellet gun?

 

[B y r o n]

You would zero at 25yds and set zero stop at 25yds. Then you would dial up to the 50yd zero. Like I had previously stated.

The difference is, instead of setting the elevation knob to "0" once zeroed at 25 yards you would set it to down ".5". This would then allow you to go up ".5" to "0" for shooting at 50 yds.

When the elevation knob is pushed down prior to tightening the set screws it doesn't know if it is at "0" or ".5" down. When bottomed out after the set screws are set it will be ".5" down instead of "0". Knowing this you can dial up to "0" and be right on for 50 yds providing the difference between 50 yds and 25 yds is ".5". If it is different then you can set it to whatever setting is actually required to bottom out at 25 yds and still dial up to 50 yds indicated by the "0".

 

[cuz]

To answer some of the above questions, no, this is not an air rifle.
It's a Bergara B-14R bolt action rimfire that I want to use to learn how to play the precision rimfire shooting games. In my area, the targets range from 25 yards to about 250 yards. If I zero at 25 yards, I would have to dial down to get from 25 to 50 yards which I wouldn't be able to do. If I zero at 35 yards, then all distances from 5 yards to 500 yards would all be dialed up.

The scope's zero stop can only be set to stop at 0, nowhere else. On my Athlon, I could set the stop at .5 mil below zero which was what I wanted to do with this scope.

 

[FredHammer]

The difference is, instead of setting the elevation knob to "0" once zeroed at 25 yards you would set it to down ".5". This would then allow you to go up ".5" to "0" for shooting at 50 yds.

When the elevation knob is pushed down prior to tightening the set screws it doesn't know if it is at "0" or ".5" down. When bottomed out after the set screws are set it will be ".5" down instead of "0". Knowing this you can dial up to "0" and be right on for 50 yds providing the difference between 50 yds and 25 yds is ".5". If it is different then you can set it to whatever setting is actually required to bottom out at 25 yds and still dial up to 50 yds indicated by the "0".

You can’t do what you are describing with an XTRIII scope.

 

[FredHammer]

To answer some of the above questions, no, this is not an air rifle.
It's a Bergara B-14R bolt action rimfire that I want to use to learn how to play the precision rimfire shooting games. In my area, the targets range from 25 yards to about 250 yards. If I zero at 25 yards, I would have to dial down to get from 25 to 50 yards which I wouldn't be able to do. If I zero at 35 yards, then all distances from 5 yards to 500 yards would all be dialed up.

The scope's zero stop can only be set to stop at 0, nowhere else. On my Athlon, I could set the stop at .5 mil below zero which was what I wanted to do with this scope.

Zero at 50. Keep that zero and fire at 25yds. I’m sure it hits a mil hash on the vertical reticle line. Just remember that hash mark. The beauty of having these fancy reticles.

 

[B y r o n]

0

Not true.

The documentation says set to "0" loosen set screws and then raise knob before tightening the set screws and zeroing scope. Once zeroed loosen set screws and then set elevation knob to "0" having pushed it all the way down before tightening the set screws.

It you set it anywhere else that is where it will bottom out, plain and simple. When turned down it will stop at whatever setting you placed it at before tightening the set screws. If you want it to be at "0" for 50 yds and dial down to whatever for 25 yds, then determine what setting that is and zero there. Then adjust the elevation knob to whatever the change is from 50 yds zero and pushing it down tighten the set screws. Whenever the scope is bottomed out it will be zeroed at 25 yds. If you adjust it to "0" then it will be zeroed at 50 yds.

Don't know how else to explain it or make it more clear. Sorry.

 

[cuz]

Zero at 50. Keep that zero and fire at 25yds. I’m sure it hits a mil hash on the vertical reticle line. Just remember that hash mark. The beauty of having these fancy reticles.

Lol, yes, that's probably what I SHOULD do. But I tried that today, and it's damn hard using the hash marks. I'm a total scope noob, so I have lots of things to practice and learn. But, the journey is what it's all about.

 

[cuz]

Not true.

The documentation says set to "0" loosen set screws and then raise knob before tightening the set screws and zeroing scope. Once zeroed loosen set screws and then set elevation knob to "0" having pushed it all the way down before tightening the set screws.

It you set it anywhere else that is where it will bottom out, plain and simple. When turned down it will stop at whatever setting you placed it at before tightening the set screws. If you want it to be at "0" for 50 yds and dial down to whatever for 25 yds, then determine what setting that is and zero there. Then adjust the elevation knob to whatever the change is from 50 yds zero and pushing it down tighten the set screws. Whenever the scope is bottomed out it will be zeroed at 25 yds. If you adjust it to "0" then it will be zeroed at 50 yds.

Don't know how else to explain it or make it more clear. Sorry.

Ok, so If I'm understanding you, you are skipping the part about rotating the knob until the "0" hits the zero stop, and instead, tightening the screws to hold the knob at something other than having the "0" at the zero stop???

I didn't try that, when I flipped the know over, it looked like it was designed so it could only be set to 0.

 

[B y r o n]

See the table at post #224 in this thread. According to this table if zeroed at 50 yds, it would also be zeroed at 20 yds so no need to dial down. Just zero at 50 yds and deal with the rest.

 

[FredHammer]

Ok, so If I'm understanding you, you are skipping the part about rotating the knob until the "0" hits the zero stop, and instead, tightening the screws to hold the knob at something other than having the "0" at the zero stop???

I didn't try that, when I flipped the know over, it looked like it was designed so it could only be set to 0.

You are correct.

 

[FredHammer]

Not true.

The documentation says set to "0" loosen set screws and then raise knob before tightening the set screws and zeroing scope. Once zeroed loosen set screws and then set elevation knob to "0" having pushed it all the way down before tightening the set screws.

It you set it anywhere else that is where it will bottom out, plain and simple. When turned down it will stop at whatever setting you placed it at before tightening the set screws. If you want it to be at "0" for 50 yds and dial down to whatever for 25 yds, then determine what setting that is and zero there. Then adjust the elevation knob to whatever the change is from 50 yds zero and pushing it down tighten the set screws. Whenever the scope is bottomed out it will be zeroed at 25 yds. If you adjust it to "0" then it will be zeroed at 50 yds.

Don't know how else to explain it or make it more clear. Sorry.

You don't have a Burris XTRIII, but feel qualified advising on the scope by reading the instruction manual? What you don't know is the instructions are wrong. I called Burris about this years back. I told them what I was trying to do with the few clicks under zero stop and they said the instructions are wrong, that's it's not possible to do.

I also caught an error in the XTR Signature rings instructions in regards to using the inserts. Called them and they confirmed the instructions are wrong.

 

[cuz]

You don't have a Burris XTRIII, but feel qualified advising on the scope by reading the instruction manual? What you don't know is the instructions are wrong. I called Burris about this years back. I told them what I was trying to do with the few clicks under zero stop and they said the instructions are wrong, that's it's not possible to do.

I also caught an error in the XTR Signature rings instructions in regards to using the inserts. Called them and they confirmed the instructions are wrong.

Uh oh, what’s the error on the Signature rings? I hope I didn’t mess that part up too. Although, I think I got them right because I have a 20 moa rail on the rifle, and guessed at putting 0 moa rings in the rear, and in front I have -10moa on the bottom and +10 moa on top which I thought would bring the total to 30moa. When the scope is zeroed I have about 6.5 mils of available downward travel and 31+ mils of upward travel.
I think that’s pretty much how it’s supposed to be.

 

[FredHammer]

Uh oh, what’s the error on the Signature rings? I hope I didn’t mess that part up too. Although, I think I got them right because I have a 20 moa rail on the rifle, and guessed at putting 0 moa rings in the rear, and in front I have -10moa on the bottom and +10 moa on top which I thought would bring the total to 30moa. When the scope is zeroed I have about 6.5 mils of available downward travel and 31+ mils of upward travel.
I think that’s pretty much how it’s supposed to be.

Yup, good to go. My deal was with the diagram. The scope is backwards in the diagram which one would need to do opposite the picture. Like a ton of us though, we figure it out sans the diagram. LOL.

 

[B y r o n]

You don't have a Burris XTRIII, but feel qualified advising on the scope by reading the instruction manual? What you don't know is the instructions are wrong. I called Burris about this years back. I told them what I was trying to do with the few clicks under zero stop and they said the instructions are wrong, that's it's not possible to do.

I also caught an error in the XTR Signature rings instructions in regards to using the inserts. Called them and they confirmed the instructions are wrong.

You are right, I don't have an XTR III, I have the XTR Pro so was relying on the instructions. Instead of just saying the instructions are wrong, why don't you illuminate us as to what is wrong and how to make this work for the OP?

 

[Birddog6424]

Toss everything you are trying to do, out the window. Zero your rifle for 50 yards, aim dead at everything from 20 yards to 50 yards.

You'll hit it. Trust me.

 

[cuz]

Toss everything you are trying to do, out the window. Zero your rifle for 50 yards, aim dead at everything from 20 yards to 50 yards.

You'll hit it. Trust me.

Well that’s definitely the easiest plan…
Thanks, if I had taken the time to think it through, I’d have realized that the .2 mil difference is only about .18” at 25 yards which isn’t going to make a difference to me.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Toss everything you are trying to do, out the window. Zero your rifle for 50 yards, aim dead at everything from 20 yards to 50 yards.

You'll hit it. Trust me.

“Trust me, I work for Burris”

Never mind the fact that OP is probably shooting rimfire and 10 yard could mean dialing up 1.5 and 25 yard could be dialing down 1.0 and if it’s matches it could be little dots on paper at those distances.

 

[Neurotic]

Not true.

The documentation says set to "0" loosen set screws and then raise knob before tightening the set screws and zeroing scope. Once zeroed loosen set screws and then set elevation knob to "0" having pushed it all the way down before tightening the set screws.

It you set it anywhere else that is where it will bottom out, plain and simple. When turned down it will stop at whatever setting you placed it at before tightening the set screws. If you want it to be at "0" for 50 yds and dial down to whatever for 25 yds, then determine what setting that is and zero there. Then adjust the elevation knob to whatever the change is from 50 yds zero and pushing it down tighten the set screws. Whenever the scope is bottomed out it will be zeroed at 25 yds. If you adjust it to "0" then it will be zeroed at 50 yds.

Don't know how else to explain it or make it more clear. Sorry.

If this is what I think it is, you need be careful. If you set it to bottom too close to zero (maybe 0.5-1 MRAD, can't recall), it can trap the turret between the bottoming point and the zero stop. The turret won't rise enough to avoid hitting the zero stop pins. It's tricky, and annoying.

I complained about this here before and most responses were why would you want to do that. For me, it's different ammo that has slightly different zeros.

 

[Trigger Monkey]

“Trust me, I work for Burris”

Never mind the fact that OP is probably shooting rimfire and 10 yard could mean dialing up 1.5 and 25 yard could be dialing down 1.0 and if it’s matches it could be little dots on paper at those distances.

I wouldn't normally wade into something like this but for accuracy's sake, if the OP zeros at 50 yards, the dope would be about 3.5 mils for a 10 yard shot and zeroing at a different distance won't significantly change that, a person would have to dial either way. Also, if zeroed at 50 and the target is at 25 it'd practically be a dead hold, the only way to create a situation where the shooter has to dial down for 25 yards is to have zeroed it really close, like 15 yards give or take.

I run a similar set up as the OP, a Bergara B14R with a Burris XTRIII zeroed at 50 yards and the zero distance has never been a limiting factor, nor has the zero stop. The only time I've technically needed to dial below zero is when targets have been in a 30-45 yard zone but in those cases I just held in the lower third of the target (usually steel eggs) and sent it, easy peasy.

 

[FredHammer]

You are right, I don't have an XTR III, I have the XTR Pro so was relying on the instructions. Instead of just saying the instructions are wrong, why don't you illuminate us as to what is wrong and how to make this work for the OP?

While you've been muddying the waters I've been giving clear instructions to the OP. Clear enough I would think you would understand. I'll break it down simpleton serving here:

1. Set zero stop at 25yds and click up to shoot 50yds
2. Set zero stop at 50yds and record the drop at 25yds

 

[cuz]

Thanks to all who provided info to help set me straight. Since it seems that the "norm" in PRS is to Zero at 50 yards, that's what I'll do.

Then, according to GeoBallistics, I would only need to dial Down at most 0.2 mils for 35-40 yards, and only 0.1 mil for 30 yards and again at 45 yards. All other distances would be dialing UP. At those closer ranges, 0.2 mils is only about 0.3".

With my current (beginner) skill level, I'm not even ready to test out different ammo in my rifle to see which performs best, so I don't think I'll notice or worry about possibly being off by 0.3" at those few close distances. I sure hope to get to the point where it will matter, but I'm not there yet.

My original question about being able to set the zero stop a half-mil below zero has been answered. The spin-off questions have been helpful. Now I need to get some actual time behind the rifle rather than trying to get all my experience from behind the keyboard...

 

[FredHammer]

Thanks to all who provided info to help set me straight. Since it seems that the "norm" in PRS is to Zero at 50 yards, that's what I'll do.

Then, according to GeoBallistics, I would only need to dial Down at most 0.2 mils for 35-40 yards, and only 0.1 mil for 30 yards and again at 45 yards. All other distances would be dialing UP. At those closer ranges, 0.2 mils is only about 0.3".

With my current (beginner) skill level, I'm not even ready to test out different ammo in my rifle to see which performs best, so I don't think I'll notice or worry about possibly being off by 0.3" at those few close distances. I sure hope to get to the point where it will matter, but I'm not there yet.

My original question about being able to set the zero stop a half-mil below zero has been answered. The spin-off questions have been helpful. Now I need to get some actual time behind the rifle rather than trying to get all my experience from behind the keyboard...

I'm glad you were able to suss out what was fact vs fiction. Do apply a veracity check filter on the information presented in these forum threads. There are idiots in spades that will talk about "that of which they know not" and try to act like an authority on the topic, as you witnessed in this thread.

 

[B y r o n]

Your are allowed to think or say what you want and since you're the expert, tell me this:

What stops the user from setting the turret at any place other than "0"?

"The scope has a zero-stop that’s easy to set and use. All the shooter has to do is remove the elevation-turret cap and use a coin to adjust elevation while zeroing. Once zeroed, the shooter reinstalls the turret cap with the zero lined up with the turret housing’s witness mark, and the zero stop is automatically set. It doesn’t get any easier than that."

Info pulled from here.

Is there something in the bottom of the turret that limits rotation or does it simply bottom out on the housing?

 

[srt-4_uk]

There is a stop in the cap that runs into the silver pin in the black ring

Edit**
Pictures help. Silver pin hits silver pin. When you rotate the turret, it rises so next rev it clears instead of hits.

 

[FredHammer]

Your are allowed to think or say what you want and since you're the expert, tell me this:

What stops the user from setting the turret at any place other than "0"?

View attachment 8264763

"The scope has a zero-stop that’s easy to set and use. All the shooter has to do is remove the elevation-turret cap and use a coin to adjust elevation while zeroing. Once zeroed, the shooter reinstalls the turret cap with the zero lined up with the turret housing’s witness mark, and the zero stop is automatically set. It doesn’t get any easier than that."

Info pulled from here.

Is there something in the bottom of the turret that limits rotation or does it simply bottom out on the housing?

OMFG dude. Is this a trick? When you don't engage the zero stop! You can elect to run the stop, or not. When you do run the stop, that's it. No going further down. Are you still talking about the optics I have and have been running for the past 15yrs, and you are reading from a fucking manual? Priceless!

 

[B y r o n]

There is a stop in the cap that runs into the silver pin in the black ring

Edit**
Pictures help. Silver pin hits silver pin. When you rotate the turret, it rises so next rev it clears instead of hits.

View attachment 8264775

I appreciate your helpful feedback, unlike others here who would rather argue instead of actually be helpful.

 

[FredHammer]

I appreciate your helpful feedback, unlike others here who would rather argue instead of actually be helpful.

How many other threads do you talk out your ass and pretend to know enough to instruct others? Only to pass disinformation to people seeking real help? On top of all of it, get called out for being a poser and still defending your shit posting? It's rhetorical.

 

[B y r o n]

OMFG dude. Is this a trick? When you don't engage the zero stop! You can elect to run the stop, or not. When you do run the stop, that's it. No going further down. Are you still talking about the optics I have and have been running for the past 15yrs, and you are reading from a fucking manual? Priceless!

I now understand the problem, the XTR III was released in 2019 but you think you've been using it for the last 15 years. Talk about being priceless!

How many other threads do you talk out your ass and pretend to know enough to instruct others? Only to pass disinformation to people seeking real help? On top of all of it, get called out for being a poser and still defending your shit posting? It's rhetorical.

Care to point out "exactly" what "disinformation" you think I've been posting with specific information that proves it?

 

[FredHammer]

I now understand the problem, the XTR III was released in 2019 but you think you've been using it for the last 15 years. Talk about being priceless!



Care to point out "exactly" what "disinformation" you think I've been posting with specific information that proves it?

This is the last of my attention I am going to provide you and to this simple 25-50yd zero topic. I also suspect you are fucking with me, because I can't believe you are this fucking stupid.

1. I've had Burris scopes for 23yrs. 15yrs spans to the XTR II line with the same zero stop setting as the III.
2. You were typing instructions on how to use a turret that did not apply to the turret in question. Blatant disinformation. If you can't admit when you are wrong, there is no help for you.

Now, I can explain things to you, but I can't comprehend them for you. I'm done stating the obvious. If this all flies over your head like everything else I typed, then do move on.

 

[Birddog6424]

“Trust me, I work for Burris”

Never mind the fact that OP is probably shooting rimfire and 10 yard could mean dialing up 1.5 and 25 yard could be dialing down 1.0 and if it’s matches it could be little dots on paper at those distances.

I dont work for Burris.

And obviously he's shooting rimfire, try to keep up.

Trust me because I have north of 20k rounds through several rimfire builds these last couple of years including winning the NW Regional PRS Rimfire Championship. I figured out a few best practices along the way.. Figure it out for yourself if you want to dumb it down to your speed. Try not to overcomplicate a simple process for other shooters.

To the OP, stick with a 50 yard zero. It's the norm, just like the 100 yard zero for centerfire. Speak the same language as your fellow shooters.

Shots under 25 yards are rare in every rimfire competition I've attended (Most scopes don't parallax below 25 yards). If you run into one, hold under, you'll find its very easy to do. Even tiny targets at 25 yards and less are easy to hit. My two bits..

 

[B y r o n]

. . . After the scope is zeroed at 50 yards, I wanted to set the zero stop to go .5 mils past zero so I could dial down for shots as close as 25 yards. It seems that I only have the option of setting it to 0, and nothing else. Is that right? I also like the idea of dialing down past zero, then coming up to zero, so I'm always dialing up to a setting.

Can someone please confirm if I'm doing something wrong? WTF?

So getting back to your original question. As you can see in the pictures above there is a post/pin in the scope body and a post/pin in the cap that will stop the cap from rotating down past "0" normally. I think you can get what you are after by doing this:

The small circle at 6 o'clock is the pin in the scope body, the one closer to 5 o'clock is the one in the cap which corresponds to "0". If the cap is rotated counter clockwise the cap will stop at "0" and won't allow you to dial down any further. So zero your rifle at 50 yards with the cap off. When installing the cap instead of having the pins touching which will line up the "0", rotate the knob counter clockwise and line up the ".5" mark with the line on the scope body and then tighten the locking set screws. You will now have the ability to dial down .5 mils but no further.

Since 50 yds and 20 yds are almost the same POA/POI you'll be good to go with the scope set at ".5" down but also be able to dial down to ".4" for say 30 yds depending on the ammo you are shooting. Dialing up for longer shots is just a adjusting for the zero setting on your scope.

 

[Kiba]

So getting back to your original question. As you can see in the pictures above there is a post/pin in the scope body and a post/pin in the cap that will stop the cap from rotating down past "0" normally. I think you can get what you are after by doing this:

View attachment 8265581
The small circle at 6 o'clock is the pin in the scope body, the one closer to 5 o'clock is the one in the cap which corresponds to "0". If the cap is rotated counter clockwise the cap will stop at "0" and won't allow you to dial down any further. So zero your rifle at 50 yards with the cap off. When installing the cap instead of having the pins touching which will line up the "0", rotate the knob counter clockwise and line up the ".5" mark with the line on the scope body and then tighten the locking set screws. You will now have the ability to dial down .5 mils but no further.

Since 50 yds and 20 yds are almost the same POA/POI you'll be good to go with the scope set at ".5" down but also be able to dial down to ".4" for say 30 yds depending on the ammo you are shooting. Dialing up for longer shots is just a adjusting for the zero setting on your scope.

As I said in post #2, it's a translating turret that moves up and down as you dial, so even if you remove the zero stop pins completely you need to lift the elevation knob slightly off the bottom at your zero before snugging the set screws down; because the knob simultaneously translates downwards as you dial below zero, you need that little bit of vertical clearance to dial down below zero before the knob bottoms out on the main housing on the scope body.

If you want to skip over the zero stop pins that are fixed right at 0 and have some downward dialing ability all you have to do is while the scope is zeroed loosen the set screws, lift the knob about 0.040"-0.050" from being bottomed out against the turret housing, and snug the setscrews back down. That provides just enough clearance for the zero stop pins to pass over each other letting you dial a bit below zero until the tips of the pins bottom out on the housing and knob as the turret translates downward as you dial down below zero. It will be a frictional zero stop and not a hard zero stop like pin to pin contact is, but it's a workaround. If you want a hard, repeatable zero stop at -0.5 mils you would have to drill a new hole for the zero stop pin in the knob and relocate the pin.

 

[B y r o n]

You are correct, I forgot about the downward travel of the cap when dialing down. As you've pointed out the cap will have to be spaced up to avoid the cap pin bottoming out to soon.

So if the scope is zeroed and the cap set at zero as in the instructions that came with the scope. Then dial up the ".5" mils and measure the gap between the bottom of the cap and the scope housing. Then turn the knob back to zero, loosen the set screws, lift and rotate the knob up ".5" mils and use feeler gauge a couple of thousands more than previously mentioned to space the turret up before tightening the set screws.

Once this is done there will be enough room for the scope to turn down the ".5" without bottoming the pin before making contact with the pin in the body.

No need to remove any of the zero stop pins or drill new holes.

 

[Kiba]

You are correct, I forgot about the downward travel of the cap when dialing down. As you've pointed out the cap will have to be spaced up to avoid the cap pin bottoming out to soon.

So if the scope is zeroed and the cap set at zero as in the instructions that came with the scope. Then dial up the ".5" mils and measure the gap between the bottom of the cap and the scope housing. Then turn the knob back to zero, loosen the set screws, lift and rotate the knob up ".5" mils and use feeler gauge a couple of thousands more than previously mentioned to space the turret up before tightening the set screws.

Once this is done there will be enough room for the scope to turn down the ".5" without bottoming the pin before making contact with the pin in the body.

No need to remove any of the zero stop pins or drill new holes.

Using feeler gauges to see how high the turret lifts in 0.5 mils and then lifting the elevation knob that much before snugging it down may not be enough height for the zero stop pins to clear each other and dial below zero.

The turret has to be lifted just high enough so the zero stop pins can pass over each other and clear without hanging up, that's all. How high it needs to be to clear depends on the erector thread pitch and and how much the pins protrude and engage each other, and where it stops below zero will depend on how much extra lift you had to add, how hard you turn the turret down, etc, because it will be an interference/frictional zero stop wherever things bottom out at this point.

If you don't lift it high enough the zero stop pins will still hit and stop the turret preventing you from dialing below zero, and if you lift it too high you might be able to dial down more than a full turn below zero, or the set screws might be part way above the top of the elevation spindle, especially if you're running a lot of cant and the scope is zeroed near the bottom of the elevation travel.

 

[B y r o n]

The idea is not to dial the turret below "0" but zero the rifle and being able to dial below that zero.