home grown projectiles

Re: home grown projectiles

Our setup was commercial. We went with solid carbide dies from Niemi. We were looking for the best and got them.

Years ago I used to cast a lot of pistol bullets. Those days are about gone now.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

I cast almost all of my plinking loads for pistols. I also shoot about 6 calibers of rifles with cast boolits in them. The pistol ammo is easy the only added step for rifle bullets is to add a gas check to the base of the bullet. The harder you make the lead alloy the better for rifles, and with very hard lead you canshoot them in a Glock without leading the barrel up.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

I have Dave Corbins dies and his brother Richard has made me a few sets as well. I would go with R.Corbin as his press is less $$ and he has a better attitude. I also have some Carbide dies.I use them for my LR .308 Check out Richards site
www.rceco.com
 
Re: home grown projectiles

Richard was the skill behind his brother Dave.Dave is just a computer savvy person. I wont buy from him anymore. Very Long Story. Richard corbin makes a die for just about any cal. you could want. Prices are better too. You could buy 2 of richards presses for one of Dave's. I have 2 of Daves CHP-1 and they are good. I have carbide Dies from D.Deutsch out of Pa. he has about a 6 week lead time. When I get back I'll send you some of my .30 cal projos. R/ Mike
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LARMIKE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Richard was the skill behind his brother Dave.Dave is just a computer savvy person. I wont buy from him anymore. Very Long Story. Richard corbin makes a die for just about any cal. you could want. Prices are better too. You could buy 2 of richards presses for one of Dave's. I have 2 of Daves CHP-1 and they are good. I have carbide Dies from D.Deutsch out of Pa. he has about a 6 week lead time. When I get back I'll send you some of my .30 cal projos. R/ Mike </div></div>

+1 on what LARMIKE has said about the Corbin's I havent swaged in awhile but ive done 7mm and 338 and have set-ups from Corbin for both used J4 jackets for the 7mm and Harrels (sp) for the 338. Also had some CNC jackets done as well but the cost was to much at this time to get them done.

With all that said I really enjoyed swaging my own bullets it just adds another level after reloading.

Goodluck in your endeavor!

Kawika
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cheech</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just saw that some where. It is a great idea. I wonder if they have asetup useing .22mag hulls. </div></div>

Actually the 22 LR make a fairly heavy bullet so the 22 mag may be a little long. I used 22 short cases to make a varmint bullet with a large exposed lead tip that would not leave an exit wound and keep the valuable hide intact. This kit was also available to make the 22 jackets into 6mm bullets so maybe the 22 mag would work for that.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

Been looking into CNC lathing recently inital cost is too high currently for me. You're looking at $2,500 for a nice mini lathe cw/ steppers, motors sand software.

The next trick is either to design you projectile or somehow scan in someone elses as a starting point.

I've put it on the back burner for now as the base price of the brass rod was about 70% of what you can buy 50 cal projectiles off the shelf.

~Mike
 
Re: home grown projectiles

I've been planing on making some swaging dies for a while. I want to make a 30 cal. bullet that explodes like a varmint bullet at subsonic velocities. My thought is to use 5.7x33 FN brass as jackets (good info on Richard Corbin's site about this). They are about 0.312" in diameter and a perfect length for 308 bullets. The idea is to score the insides of the jacket as described on Dave Corbin's site in the subsonic section. Except, instead of seating a core, I'm going to fill them with fine lead shot. I don't expect accuracy to be great, but the terminal ballistics should be interesting...

If you just want to play around with making your own dies, you don't need a swaging press. A good sized arbor press will do the job if you have access to it. Start with something simple like a round nose bullet.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

I have R & D Corbin and SAS gear . Also I have made some of my own core swaging and core seating dies . Have not made a point former yet but am working on it.
Corbin tool steel dies make just as good bullets as more expensive carbide dies . The only difference is that the carbide dies will make more before they loose tolerance.
However a tool steel die is way cheaper to replace.
For the home bullet maker the tool steel dies are all you need IMHO .
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've been planing on making some swaging dies for a while. I want to make a 30 cal. bullet that explodes like a varmint bullet at subsonic velocities. My thought is to use 5.7x33 FN brass as jackets (good info on Richard Corbin's site about this). They are about 0.312" in diameter and a perfect length for 308 bullets. The idea is to score the insides of the jacket as described on Dave Corbin's site in the subsonic section. Except, instead of seating a core, I'm going to fill them with fine lead shot. I don't expect accuracy to be great, but the terminal ballistics should be interesting...

If you just want to play around with making your own dies, you don't need a swaging press. A good sized arbor press will do the job if you have access to it. Start with something simple like a round nose bullet. </div></div>
Sounds interesting but I think the loose core material might make the bullet ballisticly unstable if it moved around after exiting the bore. I guess it's something you will have to tryout and see what happens.
If the jacket ( case ) is not balanced due to the internal scoring process then the rotational force of barrel twist might cause it to be unbalanced also.
I think a better plan is to swage the lead shot into a seatable core and then seat that in the case.
That way the projectile is more concentric and balanced and less likley to have movement of the core material.
When the bullet strikes the core will seperate into all the small swaged sections because of the fault line between each seperate piece of shot. It only squished together not melted together.
The other thing is subsonic velocities and explosive bullet performance don't go together very well.
At below 1000 fps a big lump like that might just thud to a halt and do little . I can't say for sure because I have never tried it . It's a bit like trying to get a 44 pistol bullet to explode at 800 fps it expands OK if its a hollow point but it don't blow up like a 220 swift .
To me its sounds like you would be better off with a standard 30 cal jacket and make the bullet a dual core .
First place a short standard lead core in the base section and corebond it. Then seat it . Then swage a shot core as previously described and seat that as a loose core ontop . Then point form to a big open protected point.
This creates a ballisticly stable bullet that is concentric and accurate . The front core will expand and fragment easy but the base section will stay together and punch through a bit.
Even if the terminal ballistics are not exactly what you want at least this kind of bullet has more chance of being accurate and hitting what you aim at. Just my thoughts.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

Well, the shot doesn't have to be completely loose. It can be compressed together enough that there is no movement, but not so much that the individual pieces bond together. But, yes, a two part core was another thought too.

The reason for going with the case as a jacket was that it simplified the dies quite a bit if you're not using ready made jackets. Part of the intrigue was in using some of the commonly available materials described in Richard's notes.

 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've been planing on making some swaging dies for a while. I want to make a 30 cal. bullet that explodes like a varmint bullet at subsonic velocities. </div></div>

I did some experimenting with this concept many years ago and found that a large exposed lead tip, similar to a half jacket bullet would explode the bullet at low velocity. Got the idea from one of Corbins' many swaging books.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cheech</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does D. Deutsch have a web site? maybe I'm searching wrong, lol

Thanks for the replies, by the way. Cheers </div></div>

I am not sure of the web address. Google Deutsch custom dies. R/Mike
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kombayotch</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well, the shot doesn't have to be completely loose. It can be compressed together enough that there is no movement, but not so much that the individual pieces bond together. But, yes, a two part core was another thought too.

The reason for going with the case as a jacket was that it simplified the dies quite a bit if you're not using ready made jackets. Part of the intrigue was in using some of the commonly available materials described in Richard's notes.

</div></div>
You must not have read my post fully I already said the shot could be swaged into a core!
 
Re: home grown projectiles

What about adding in some super glue to your bird shot? And perhaps a "center post" kinda like a ballistic tip that goes all the way down.

Gary
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: diriel</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What about adding in some super glue to your bird shot? And perhaps a "center post" kinda like a ballistic tip that goes all the way down.

Gary </div></div>
One of the very basic principles of making good bullets is to have a process that by its very nature produces a ballanced and concentic form to the whole bullet structure.
How could you control superglue to make sure it is disperesed in perfect ballance and symmetry through the whole mass off the shot core ?
The more things you add into the core area like posts and penertraters etc. the more possibility there is for inballance and inaccuracy .
It would shoot but not very accurately I would think.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vinconco</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cheech</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just saw that some where. It is a great idea. I wonder if they have asetup useing .22mag hulls. </div></div>

Actually the 22 LR make a fairly heavy bullet so the 22 mag may be a little long. I used 22 short cases to make a varmint bullet with a large exposed lead tip that would not leave an exit wound and keep the valuable hide intact. This kit was also available to make the 22 jackets into 6mm bullets so maybe the 22 mag would work for that. </div></div>
The 22 long rifle case can make around the 53 grain bullet if its a protected point or a bit heavier if its a soft nose .
22 magnum casese are bigger in diameter and too long and would need more drawing work and need to be pinch trimmed.
They would be ok for a bigger caliber like 6mm. Howerver the same rules below apply.
The secret to making good rimfire case jackets is to acid wash them first then anneal them then iron out the case rim.
Once you have the bullet core seated point forming should be carried out with a convex base punch.
What this does is push the old rimfire striker mark in and away from the base edge of the bullet giving better accuracy.
However these bullets can not be driven as fast as bullets made from commercial jackets and they will blow up more easily.
Core bonding may help stop premature blow up to some degree.
I spent some years making them all sorts of ways and try as I did I could not get them to be as accurate as a good commercial bullet like Sierra , Nosler, etc.
However if you make them well they are quite OK for casual small game hunting and plinking at shorter ranges.
Another way you could handle the 22 magnum case is cut the head right off and treat it like a tubing jacket .
 
Re: home grown projectiles

Vinc, Kawi, Country...

You've all made mention that the jackets are the most important part and many are junk. What about the J4's that Berger now sells? JLK uses them, Berger uses them, they're supposed to be THE commercially available jacket.

If I'm looking at replicating the quality that Berger can produce, would these jackets be acceptable for that?
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vinconco</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey Country, What is the best method for cleaning the inside of the .22 cases before the draw die operation? </div></div>
I used two things . A medical instrument cleaner called Med Tech which was a dilute acid .
Also a stuff called CLR which is a bathroom cleaner containing sulfamic acid .
The reason I used these is because I used them also to clean bullet jackets and brass so it was convieniant.
The acidic solutions kind of eat away brass corrosion and at the same time dislodge the powder residue.
However you may not be able to buy that particular stuff .
I would say that a very dilute sulfuric acid would work just as well . Brass maufacturers use dilute acids to clean brass anyway. If that sounds a bit dangerous then there is a host of other cleaning products that might do just as good a job.
I would put them in a vibrator in a ventilated container and shake them for a few hours. You need a small extended vent in the top of the container as the mild acid will build up some pressure. I would place the vibrator outside and to hold the container I would jam some foam rubber down around the container inside the vibrators bowl to hold it inplace.
If you aint got a vibrator then just stiring the cases around in a bowl of the solution warmed up a bit does some cleaning also.
The punch that irons out the case rim has to be heat treated to be quite hard or it wears quickly as no matter how well you clean some grit still remains. They clean up better once the rim is ironed out .
You will never get them perfectly clean the first time because of the rim .
They are more work than using a commercial jacket but they are free .
 
Re: home grown projectiles

J4's are the standard for making BR bullets . Spiveco Inc. Owns , Berger bullets , j4 jackets, Super brush , Skyblazer , Sterling tools .
Usually they are quite uniform and concentric jackets and if you are making BR type bullets with standard loose ( read , not crimped or core bonded ) lead core and protected point then they are a good choice.
Yes to try and match Bergers accuracy you would need to use j4's I would think. Or " redraw " other jackets .

If you are swaging for a very high velocity rig then the new thicker jackets would be a good choice also .
CH , Corbin , Sierra make good jackets also .
 
Re: home grown projectiles

Thanks Country, that's what I needed to know.

I'd like to eventually understand jacket drawing, but I'm not jumping that far into this immediately.

Turning 22 LR and 22 WMR cases into boolits is cool as well, maybe something to think about but for now 55 FMJ's are only 80 bucks a thousand.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

Thanks Country, that's what I needed to know.

I'd like to eventually understand jacket drawing, but I'm not jumping that far into this immediately.

Turning 22 LR and 22 WMR cases into boolits is cool as well, maybe something to think about but for now 55 FMJ's are only 80 bucks a thousand.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks Country, that's what I needed to know.

I'd like to eventually understand jacket drawing, but I'm not jumping that far into this immediately.

Turning 22 LR and 22 WMR cases into boolits is cool as well, maybe something to think about but for now 55 FMJ's are only 80 bucks a thousand. </div></div>
The economy of swaging your own is not that great if you compare your product to the cheapest end of the bullet market.
If you strive to make top quality BR bullets or high accuracy hunting bullets then you are really in the expensive end of the bullet market . So if you compare to those expensive bullets the economy is much better after you pay for the setup costs.
A lot of people are always touting the most expensive equipment like tungsten dies etc. That's fine for someone who is going to sell their bullets but for the average person using a hand press you will tire very quickly of working your guts out while everyone else is shooting and enjoying your labour .
If you have lots of money then it don't matter buy the very best but if you are not that wealthy tool steel dies from people like Corbin and RCE etc. will make just as accurate bullets . Weather the die is made of tungsten or Graff air tool steel is irrelevant to the shape and form of the bullet that comes out . A lot of the quality and accuracy comes from jacket quality and how well you make the bullets , your technique .
You are not limited to just one style and weight of bullet even if you have only one set of dies . You can , use lots of techniques like , shorter or longer jackets , dual cores, interenal jackets , core bonding , to make hunting bullets with different terminal ballistics , however the bullets will all have the same ogive , However you can vary the meplat ( tip opening ) to some degree also.
There is two basic types of jacket drawing going on.
1/ Jacket makers. People who make jackets from scratch fron guilding metal strip. Thats a fairly big operation and expensive.
2/ Re drawing jackets . Bullet swagers who redraw a jacket to try and make it more concentric. The process is fairly simple.
You use a 7/8x14 die body that has a ring die in it. Its a bit like a bushing neck size die but the top is open so the jacket can just go all the way through the sizing ring. A punch is placed in the ram of the press and cleaned and lubricated jackets are pushed through . The idea is to reduce the jackets thickness variations and there by making it more concentric and ballanced. There is several approaches to this final end but you get the idea. Corbins make the basic gear but you end up having to make some of your own ring dies and punch's to get exactly the diameters you need.
You can also use this process to make a jacket for one caliber out of a jacket for another caliber by drawing down in steps or even expanding up and then drawing down . That proces is a bit more involved but I have done it. I just finnished making a thousand 243 jackets ( 241 diameter ) out of some short 264 cal pistol jackets that were given to me for free I have no idea what pistol they were for originaly but they are 243 's now will make a nice 90 to 100 grain bullet.
It is easier to make a thinner jacket accurate than a thick one that's why J4's are thinner than some others. However if you core bond the j4 jacket it makes a reasonable game bullet , Solder type Core bonding costs virtually nothing to do at home but does reduce the accuracy some what . This is due to disturbance of the precision swaged core during melting to bond the core . A small hole appears at the top surface of the lead core as it cools. Most of this inaccuracy is reduced down by the subsequent core seating process but something still remains slightly out of ballance . Its not a big issue and accuracy is still very good for hunting bullets . I am working on a partial solution at the moment.

Berger has just spent a lot of time and money producing a thicker jacket that is still target quality or that's what they are saying. Anyway if it works out then it would be an improvement for high velocity stuff and would be a good way to make a more reliable and accurate core bonded game bullet from a precision jacket .
 
Re: home grown projectiles

Country, thank you very much for all that info.

I'd be looking into tool steel dies for now, that's for sure.

I didn't mean to say that I was comparing this process to the bottom end of bulk bullets, but as I understand it (and this may be completely wrong) the jackets and subsequent bullets made from 22 rimfire cases are both not particularly uniform and they don't stand up to higher velocities over ~ 3200 fps. The accuracy as I understand it is also not anywhere near match grade.

For those reasons, I was comparing it to the bulk grade 55 FMJBT's that Wideners sells for 80 bucks per 1k. I didn't mean to disparage the level of skill/expertise that goes into making truly match grade custom bullets.

If I got into making 224 caliber bullets I'd probably just get setup and buy the J4's to start as well.

Drawing jacket from gilding metal strip is a very neat process but as of now, it's above my head to even consider getting involved with. I'd be happy with making high grade pills on my own with purchased jackets.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Country, thank you very much for all that info.

I'd be looking into tool steel dies for now, that's for sure.

I didn't mean to say that I was comparing this process to the bottom end of bulk bullets, but as I understand it (and this may be completely wrong) the jackets and subsequent bullets made from 22 rimfire cases are both not particularly uniform and they don't stand up to higher velocities over ~ 3200 fps. The accuracy as I understand it is also not anywhere near match grade.

For those reasons, I was comparing it to the bulk grade 55 FMJBT's that Wideners sells for 80 bucks per 1k. I didn't mean to disparage the level of skill/expertise that goes into making truly match grade custom bullets.

If I got into making 224 caliber bullets I'd probably just get setup and buy the J4's to start as well.

Drawing jacket from gilding metal strip is a very neat process but as of now, it's above my head to even consider getting involved with. I'd be happy with making high grade pills on my own with purchased jackets. </div></div>

You don't have to appologise mate No offence was taken at all. I was just trying to point out that the economics of home swaging is not that good if you compare to the cheaper end of the bullet market .
However if you compare to the higher end then it is much better .
It was a general statement for all prospective swagers. Sorry if I worded it wrong and upsett you.

You are quite correct in your assesment of the potentail performance of bullets made from rimfire jackets.
Even after a lot of experiments and improvements the best groups were about 1.5 in general and sometimes more like 2 inch groups at 100 and that was not consistant . It varies with each new batch of fired cases.
However on average they were just as accurate as some cheap made hunting bullets that I bought from time to time.
They are definately not a BR or target proposition .
The average person could not justify the cost of setting up jacket making plant.
You could buy bullets for the rest of your life with only part of the money it would cost.If you do decide to get into swaging I would suggest that you avoid the loading press type dies . That's the dies that have 7/8x14 threaded bodies and go into a normal reloading press.
There is nothing wrong with them except it is very difficult to make any new ones or add things to them.
I would buy a purpose made swaging press something like the Corbins CSP1 S press
http://www.corbins.com/presses.htm
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gunsnjeeps</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do the firing pin impressions from .22 lr affect the jacket? </div></div>
Yes that's what I found. In my bullets I was able to improve accuracy a small amount by using a convex point forming punch ( base punch actually) .
Some rimfire cases are worse than others as some rifles put a wider and deeper striker impression on the case . When you make the bullet there is still some impression left on the bullets edge.
The base edge is extremely important to accuracy more so than the point infact.
Any nick or ding in the base edge is not good.
 
Re: home grown projectiles

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LARMIKE</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cheech</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does D. Deutsch have a web site? maybe I'm searching wrong, lol

Thanks for the replies, by the way. Cheers </div></div>

I am not sure of the web address. Google Deutsch custom dies. R/Mike </div></div>

http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=na...ch+custom+dies.

brings up this thread,lol

I'll keep searching