Advanced Marksmanship HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

j-huskey

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Jul 27, 2001
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A general statement for beginning shooters (or competitors):

Maybe we call this Step 1?

Find and read all you can about what you think you want to do. Find a person that shoots who will answer your questions and ask the questions you have from your pre-reading and reading.

It helps to listen to what they tell you. When they tell you, “At least try what I am telling you before you continue to question what I am telling you”, YOU should heed these words. TRY IT.

The quickest way to lose your friendly person who DOES shoot is to FAIL TO LISTEN to what they offer and at least TRY it, before discarding the information they give you.

Ask if you can go shooting with this person, offer to pay for the trip to the range, ammunition, and targets that you would shoot if they were nice enough to let you use their equipment.

Stay friends with the people you meet while doing this. They can coach you through the beginnings of your shooting career.

Find someone, a gunsmith, a shooting coach, or an experienced shooter who can teach you about rifle fit, how to mount and set a scope, and how to zero it.

Maybe we call this Step 2?

If you graduate past the above:

a. Find a training rifle that fits. The rifle should fit properly, have a weight that allows the competitor to hold it comfortably in all positions, and has a low power scope that allows the beginner/competitor to shoot as closely as 25 yards.

b. A 22LR rifle is not a bad choice to begin with.

c. Using this 22LR rifle at 25 and 50 yards, the beginner/competitor learns and imprints the fundamentals of shooting on ever increasing smaller targets until they can hold 1INCH groups in all shooting positions at 25 yards, through 10 repetitions. Then 50 yards. Since the 22LR begins to lose it’s edge somewhat at 100 yards, unless a biathlon grade rifle with biathlon grade ammunition, and biathlon grade physical fitness, the next step is to upgrade from the 22LR training rifle to a larger rifle.

d. Rifle II, should fit properly, have a weight that allows the beginner/competitor to hold it comfortably in all positions, and has a middle range scope that enhances the use from 50 to 200 yards. This rifle also should be a caliber that does not punish the beginner/competitor in recoil. Magnums are NOT recommended. At this point the beginner/competitor should put significant study into a caliber that is readily available, has match grade ammunition, has a proven track record of barrel longevity, and reasonable recoil, then purchase such a rifle.

e. The two most common of these rifles are 308 Winchester and 260 Remington.

f. Using Rifle II, the beginner/competitor learns this rifle’s handling characteristics and continues to imprint the fundamentals of shooting on ever increasing smaller targets until they can hold 1 INCH groups in all shooting positions at 50 yards, through 10 repetitions. Then 100 yards (1 INCH groups) and further to 200 yards (2 INCH groups). Past these distances, holding MOA groups should be the shooter’s goal.

g. The beginner/competitor should begin to train at further distances, “stretching their legs”, gaining experience and knowledge, learning their level experience needs to be broadened as external ballistics are now coming into play with extended distances. A good coach here is a very good idea.

h. The beginner/competitor should start attending some forms of competition with this rifle, and with the gained experience may decide that Rifle II meets their needs. However, the beginner/competitor may find that a 3rd rifle selection may be in order to meet specific competition needs.

i. This is the path many national champions have taken to reach national championship. The above events are a clear example of “crawl, walk, run.” This is a proven formula.

At this point, the beginner/competitor has established the fundamentals of marksmanship with at least two rifles, has begun to stretch their limits, learning their present limits, and has gained some idea of where they wish to advance to.

More to follow:
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Some of you will ask, or should ask, "How do I find these people to go shoot with?" who are mentioned in step 1.

1. Your gun store. Any other gun store in your area...
2. The Hunter Safety course your state may require (ask the instructor).
3. The local Boy Scout troop that may have or still performs the firearms portion.
4. The local police department's firearm instructor, ask that person if they know anyone who teaches basic shooting. And when you speak with these people, just tell them you want to know how to shoot your rifle better for competitions. Ask the instructor where there are rifle competitions as well.
5. The NRA.
6. Internet searches for local ranges in your area. Google "shooting club in XXX (your area, your state)". Shooting Club, Rifle Club, firearms training, etc. You'd be surprised what you can find.
7. Get on as many shooting related web-sites as you can and ask if there is any training or shooters willing to help you train in your area that the people on the site know about. You may get lucky.
8. And of course, the people who advertise here on SH.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

And, I know some of you may not like the idea of buying a 22LR for the first rifle. Some good reasons for doing this are:

1. The rifle is reasonably priced for most people.
2. A Nikon 4.5-14 mildot scope is pretty cheap too and will work very well for what you want to do.
3. The ammunition is very affordable. Remember, you need 3000-5000 repetitions to get a physical action imprinted.
4. There are way more places to shoot a 22LR than there are "the evil Sniper rifle".
5. There are way more people who would be willing to help with a 22LR than they would be if you had a more intimidating rifle.
6. A 22LR is a rifle that your dad, mom, brother, sister, girlfriend, wife, son, daughter, cousin etc would enjoy shooting and would be the easiest way to get them involved in your shooting sport. Think support....
7. A 22LR is easy to go back to when you don't have time or a place to carry the bigger rifle.
8. A 22LR is a great small game hunting and survival rifle.
9. A large number of professionals recommend it.
10. A 22LR is just plain fun.

To do Step 2 mentioned above, a 22LR can be as challenging as anything else you will ever do with a rifle.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Yes, I know, this is here in another post, but this IS the most important part of you learning to shoot, knowing AND applying the fundamentals.

The best way to start on these is to DRY FIRE your weapon at home before ever going to the range. Try at least 1000 dry fires before you ever shoot a live round.

Put a dot on the wall and assume the most stable shooting position you can get into in your house, prone or off your table, and dry fire until your sight picture does not move off the target. Repeating, Try at least 1000 dry fires before you ever shoot a live round.

FUNDAMENTALS OF MARKSMANSHIP:

*HOW TO HOLD AND SHOOT YOUR RIFLE: Aka The Fundamentals of Marksmanship. (for a scoped rifle class)

*How to Hold, *Aim, *Eye Relief, *Sight Alignment, *Sight Picture, *Breathing, *Trigger Manipulation, *Follow Through, and *Recovery.

When your rifle fits you properly and you have learned to properly clean and maintain your rifle, you must learn how to hold the rifle. ACCURACY IS A FUNCTION OF CONSISTENCY, BOTH WITH THE RIFLE AND AMMUNITION, AND THE SHOOTER'S ACTIONS. You must hold the rifle the same way each time. You will practice holding the rifle, your sight picture, your breathing, and trigger manipulation through dry firing. You will practice building a good steady, stable, solid position each time, bone on bone, not held by muscle power. Although you have to exert some muscle control, the position should be a natural relaxed position to avoid muscle fatigue, tension, and shaking that occurs after muscles are overextended for any period of time. You will check your natural point of aim before each shot.
NATURAL POINT OF AIM is a position that allows the rifle to point naturally at the target without any muscle tension required to hold it on point of aim. You should keep the same position each time, changing nothing, to maintain consistency, to keep your natural point of aim the same each time. Before beginning this portion, or preceding sections, or any exercises, you should stretch first to loosen up your muscles. Besides the natural relaxing effect of stretching, it helps to prepare you mentally as well. Being physically fit will help you shoot better, and if you are not physically fit, you should make it a point to become fit.

*HOW TO HOLD YOUR RIFLE:
Assume the prone supported firing position.
The front of the rifle will rest either on a bipod attached to the stock or on a sandbag placed under the front of the stock.
Use the non-firing hand to support the butt of the rifle. Place your hand next to your chest and rest the TIP of the butt of the rifle on top of your hand. Ball your hand into a fist to raise the butt of the rifle or relax your fist to lower the butt of the rifle. A preferred method is to use a sock filled with sand or a small sand bag placed in your non firing hand and squeeze it to raise the rifle butt and release the bag to lower the rifle butt. Using this sock or bag method lessens body contact with the rifle and can eliminate an added human variable.
Place the butt of the rifle firmly in the pocket of the shoulder. The shooter can place a pad in his clothing in the pocket of his shoulder to reduce pulse beat and breathing movement.
With the firing hand grip the small or pistol grip of the stock. Using the middle through little fingers, exert a slight rearward pull to keep the butt of the rifle firmly in the pocket of the shoulder. Place the thumb over the top of the pistol grip of the stock. Place the index or trigger finger on the trigger and insure it does not touch the stock and does not disturb the lay of the rifle when the trigger is pulled.
Find a comfortable position for your elbows that provide the greatest support for you and your rifle without creating a strain.
Place your cheek in the same place on the stock each time. This is called the stock weld. Changing your position changes sight alignment and will cause misplaced shots.

*AIMING THE RIFLE:
Begin the aiming process by aligning the rifle with the target when assuming a firing position. THE RIFLE SHOULD POINT NATURALLY AT THE DESIRED AIMING POINT. No muscular tension or movement should be necessary to hold the rifle on target. To check the Natural Point of Aim (NPA), you assume a comfortable, STABLE, firing position. Place your cheek on the stock at the correct stock weld then breath, and entering the natural respiratory pause, look away from the scope moving only your eye and relax. Let the rifle drift to its natural point of aim, then look back through the scope. If the crosshairs remain on the correct position on the target, the natural point of aim is correct.
If the NPA is not correct, you must change your body position to bring the sights on the target. If muscles are used to bring the rifle to NPA, the muscles will relax when the rifle is fired and the rifle will begin to move to its NPA. Because this movement begins just before the weapon discharges, the rifle is moving as the bullet leaves the muzzle. This causes displaced shots with no apparent cause as recoil disguises the movement. By adjusting the rifle and body as a single unit, rechecking, and readjusting as necessary, you achieve a true natural point of aim. Once this position of established, you will them aim the rifle at the exact point on the target. Aiming involves three areas, eye relief, sight alignment, and sight picture.

*EYE RELIEF:
This is the distance from the firing eye to the scope tube. This distance is fairly constant with a scope. You should take care to avoid injury by the scope tube striking the eyebrow during recoil.
You should place your head as upright as possible behind the scope with your eye directly behind the scope. This head placement allows the muscles around your eye to relax. Incorrect head placement causes you to have to look out the corner of your eye resulting in muscle strain, causing blurred vision and eye strain. Eye strain can be avoided by not staring through the scope for long periods of time and correct stock weld alleviates eye strain as well by maintaining consistent eye relief.

*SIGHT ALIGNMENT:
Sight alignment is the relationship between the crosshairs (reticule) and field of view. You must place your head behind the scope so a full field of view appears in the scope tube with NO DARK SHADOWS OR CRESENTS. Center the reticule in a full field of view with the vertical crosshair straight up to ensure the scope is not canted.

*SIGHT PICTURE:
Sight picture is centering the reticule with a full field of view on the target as seen by you. Place the reticule crosshairs on what portion of the target you wish to hit.

*BREATHING:
You must exercise breathing control during the aiming process. Breathing while trying to aim, with the natural up and down motion of the chest while breathing, causes the rifle to move up and down. Up and down movement occurs while lying down. Breathing movement can be side to side when sitting at a bench rest type table when your body is against the table. You must therefore accomplish sight alignment while breathing and finish aiming while you are not breathing. You do this by inhaling, exhaling, and stop at the moment of natural respiratory pause before beginning to inhale again.
You do NOT try to HOLD your breath, this takes a specific type of muscle control, and it takes away from the natural relaxed position you need for consistency in shooting.
A respiratory cycle lasts four to five seconds. Inhalation and exhalation take only about two seconds, thus between each respiratory cycle there is a pause of two to three seconds. This pause can be extended to ten seconds without any special effort or unpleasant sensations. You should fire during this pause when your breathing muscles are relaxed. This avoids strain on the diaphragm.
You should assume your firing position and breath naturally until your hold begins to settle.
The respiratory pause should never feel un-natural. If it is too long, the body suffers from oxygen deprivation and begins to send out signals to resume breathing. These signals produce involuntary movements of the diaphragm which interfere with the shooters concentration and lack of movement needed to make a correct shot.

*TRIGGER CONTROL:
Trigger control is the most important fundamental of marksmanship. It is defined as causing the rifle to fire when the sight picture is at its very best, without causing the rifle to move.
Trigger Squeeze on the other hand is defined as the independent action of the forefinger on the trigger with a uniformly increasing pressure on the trigger straight to the rear until the rifle fires. Trigger Control is the last task to be accomplished before the rifle fires.
Proper trigger control occurs when the shooter places his firing finger as low on the trigger as possible and still clears the trigger guard, thereby achieving maximum mechanical advantage. He engages the trigger with that part of his firing finger (middle of the pad of the last digit) that allows him to pull the trigger straight to the rear. In order to avoid transferring movement of the finger to the entire rifle, the sniper should see daylight between the trigger finger and the stock as he squeezes the trigger straight to the rear. He fires the weapon when the reticule is in a position to insure a properly placed shot, or when the reticule is on target.
As the stability of a firing position decreases, the wobble area increases. The larger the wobble area, the harder it is to fire the shot without reacting to it, attempting to influence the sight placement when the trigger breaks. This reaction occurs when the shooter:
1. Anticipates recoil. The firing shoulder begins to move forward just before the rifle fires, thus pushing the rifle out of line with the target.
2. Jerks the Trigger. The trigger finger moves the trigger in a quick, choppy, spasmodic attempt to fire the shot before the reticule can move from the desired point of aim.
3. Flinches. The shooter's entire body (or parts thereof) overreacts to the anticipated noise or recoil (jerks). This is usually due to unfamiliarity with the weapon.
4. Avoids Recoil. The shooter tries to avoid recoil or noise by moving away from the weapon or by closing the firing eye just before the weapon fires. This again is caused by unfamiliarity with the weapon and a lack of knowledge of the weapon's actions upon firing.
Trigger control is best handled by assuming a stable position, adjusting on the target, and beginning a breathing cycle. As the shooter exhales the final breath approaching the natural respiratory pause, he secures his finger on the trigger. As the reticule settles on the target at the desired point of aim, and the natural respiratory pause is entered, the shooter applies initial pressure to the trigger. He increases the tension on the trigger during the respiratory pause as long as the reticule remains on the desired point of aim to insure a properly placed shot. If the reticule moves away from the desired point of aim, and the respiratory pause is free of strain or tension, the shooter stops increasing the tension on the trigger, waits for the reticule to return to the desired point of aim, and then continues to squeeze the trigger. This is trigger control. If movement is too large for recovery, or if the respiratory pause has become uncomfortable (extended too long), then the shooter should whenever possible, release the pressure off the trigger and start the respiratory cycle again.

*FOLLOW THROUGH:
Applying the fundamentals increases the odds of a well aimed shot being fired. There are however, additional skills, that when mastered, make the first round correct hit even more of a certainty. One of these skills is follow through.
a. This is the act of continuing to apply all the marksmanship fundamentals as the weapon fires as well as after the weapon fires. Follow through consists of:
* Keeping the head in firm contact with the stock (stock weld) upon firing and after firing.
* Keeping the finger on the trigger pulling all the way to the rear when and after the weapon fires.
* Continuing to look through the scope when and after the weapon fires.
* Insuring the muscles stay relaxed when and after the weapon fires.
* Avoid reacting to the recoil or noise during and after firing.
* Releasing the trigger only after the recoil has stopped.
b. Good follow through insures that the weapon is allowed to fire and recoil naturally, and the shooter/rifle combination reacts as a single unit to such actions.

*CALLING THE SHOT:
Calling the shot is being able to tell where the bullet should impact on the target. The shooter must be able to accurately call the shots. Proper follow through will aid in calling the shot. The dominant factor in calling the shot is, where-ever the reticule is when the shot is fired. This location is called the final focus point.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

The reigning national champions in most of the shooting disciplines for this year (2008) have stated in print more than once, the fundamentals of marksmanship are the most important basic building block for a shooter.
For a shooter to not master the fundamentals, or re-check them each time they fire a shot, is a risk at failure. The reigning champions will tell you they have a mental checklist of the fundamentals they run through each shot.

The US Military uses these fundamentals in all disciplines to bring new shooters up to a level where they can "appreciate" the need to know more advanced topics like range and wind measurement and estimation, along with knowledge of compensation from drop and wind deflection.

Mastery of the fundamentals has been seen to be one of the most continually asked questions of a generation not raised with firearms or the access to a good coach and controlled practice.

Knowledge of the fundamentals without practical experience is not going to produce a skilled marksman. Knowledge and poor practice will not produce a skilled marksman.
Knowledge, positive practice, lessons learned, corrections made, and continued practice under known conditions build a basic foundation to a skilled marksman.
Once that foundation is laid, the marksman should advance to more advanced topics.

Too much, too fast, is detrimental to a student trying to learn. Remember, Crawl, Walk, Run.

Maybe we call this Step 3?

Going to competitions at this point in their shooting career will give beginner/competitor a much higher degree of satisfaction than the person who jumps in with a high dollar match rifle, scope, and gear, but lacks the fundamentals of shooting firmly ingrained through training.

A beginner/competitor who follows this written regimen with also have a higher degree of satisfaction than the shooter who began with a specific shooting pattern, ie, always shooting prone at all distances, with bags and rests that remove the human factor from their shooting. The bag/rest/prone shooter still needs to establish the fundamentals of shooting in all positions to be successful in other shooting outside their comfort zone.

 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Maybe we call this “the not so good stuff”?

Unfortunately in this world, 2008, many people read the military manuals and “tactical” books that teach the scoped rifle venue, ie, the “sniper”, and this begins with the bag/rest/prone shooting syndrome. Many believe this system will teach them all they need to know about shooting.
Police Sniper training has been the victim of this for many years and is still a difficult mindset to break.

Those who know about the military “sniper” training know that the trainee at these schools has been trained in basic marksmanship before being accepted to the schools. The school trainee also had to shoot at an advanced level of performance before being accepted, is generally in very good physical shape, and is highly motivated to successfully graduate from the school.

The military school trainee is a far cry from the internet reader, novice shooter without a coach or mentor, or beginner who knows how to investigate written material to start their shooting experiment, and who start their shooting experiment with those manuals, but not the prior experience.

Those shooters who start their shooting experiment with those manuals, but not the prior experience, may need to unlearn what they think is proper shooting habit and start with the above mentioned basics to establish the fundamentals of shooting.

So these guys might need to go back to Step 1 and find the right people, definitely do Step 2, then Step 3.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

A beginner does not understand fundamentals.
A student understands that there are fundamentals.
An expert knows the fundamentals and normally incorporates them.
A master both knows the fundamentals, always incorporates them, and frequently revisits them to find new methods of application.
Remember: Fundamentals are not the "baby steps" of an activity. They are the required building blocks of any activity. Without use of the fundamentals, you have no foundation, you falter, you sway, you fall.
I frequently ask "experts" in their field the fundamentals of their effort. If they can't answer, then I know they're not experts. I've yet to find a golfer who can tell me the fundamentals of golf to my satisfaction. If they don't say "balance" somewhere in there, I cast them off like a dirty diaper. You MUST have balance to be a good golfer. Maybe I ought to ask Tiger. Bet he'd answer better than the local "pros". Guess that's why I never bothered to learn golf and love hanging out with fellow shooters.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.


Sir,
Excellent post! This should be required reading for every shooter.
Mods, please make this a sticky post.

Thanks,
Jim
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Beginners MUST be told there are fundamentals and how important they are. Beginners should progress to be students.
Students must be taught the fundamentals in both classroom and practical application. The teacher should work through one fundamental at a time and let the student see how each fundamental is a building block for the next fundamental.
As the teacher and student progress, the student will see the fundamentals start to mesh with their understanding of what was taught. As the student sees it happening and sees positive results, the fundamentals start to become part of the student's mental process.

The student SHOULD be taught specifically that the fundamentals are the foundation of all their future shooting, much like a house has to have a solid foundation. It should be explained to the student that with no foundation, the house will fall, and their shooting will fail.

The student would be told in the beginning that without fundamentals, the student will never get to be an expert or a master.
The teacher should be able to show the student that like the alphabet, without knowing the alphabet, you cannot make words, and without words you cannot communicate a thought you can see but cannot articulate, because words are important to success.
Any example could be used that the student could easily understand, as long as the instructor is capable.

God save us from bad instructors.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Excellent posts Huskey. I'm going to have to make this a watched thread so I can referrence it as needed.

While a .22 is a great way to start to learn and dry-firing is an excellent technique, you may want to make a note not to dry-fire a .22. Just thought that should be pointed out just in case...
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jhuskey</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe we call this &#147;the not so good stuff&#148;?

Unfortunately in this world, 2008, many people read the military manuals and &#147;tactical&#148; books that teach the scoped rifle venue, ie, the &#147;sniper&#148;, and this begins with the bag/rest/prone shooting syndrome. Many believe this system will teach them all they need to know about shooting.
Police Sniper training has been the victim of this for many years and is still a difficult mindset to break.

Those who know about the military &#147;sniper&#148; training know that the trainee at these schools has been trained in basic marksmanship before being accepted to the schools. The school trainee also had to shoot at an advanced level of performance before being accepted, is generally in very good physical shape, and is highly motivated to successfully graduate from the school.

The military school trainee is a far cry from the internet reader, novice shooter without a coach or mentor, or beginner who knows how to investigate written material to start their shooting experiment, and who start their shooting experiment with those manuals, but not the prior experience.

Those shooters who start their shooting experiment with those manuals, but not the prior experience, may need to unlearn what they think is proper shooting habit and start with the above mentioned basics to establish the fundamentals of shooting.

So these guys might need to go back to Step 1 and find the right people, definitely do Step 2, then Step 3.
</div></div>

I see it somewhat as I believe you do, folks who, because they can execute the firing task, think they know how to shoot. Typically, they will bave a difficult time with LR; and, rather than correctly attribute their poor performance to not having an understanding of the fundementals; instead, they'll seek out some sort of esoteric LR training whose headline begins with the word "advanced".
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

A few suggestions.

Dryfire, yes; with a rimfire, no. Most centerfire rifles can be dryfired without negative consequences, but rimfires can end up with damage to the firing pin and/or chamber rim.

When you practice to develop a skill, concentrate on that skill only, then move on to the next skill only if and when the first is mastered to at least your satisfaction, preferably to your mentor's satisfatcion.

Mentors; be reasonable, a skill can be readdressed in advanced training, all skills need to be readdressed on a regular basis. The first time through; comprehension trumps execution.

First time through the full set, things are gonna look like hell, but as the individual skills get developed, they form the foundation for the next advancement. Then the skills get readdressed, in order, again, and the results will show it. Rome was not built in a single day.

Be it training, plinking, or competition; each shot is the only important one. You can't change what went before, and you need to complete the current shot before you can address subsequent ones.

When I shoot comp, I don't add up my score as I work my way through the course. Rather, I subtract my lost points from the possible score. It tends to keep my mind in the game a lot more seriously. But the more important emphasis still remains with the current single shot. In my mind, each shot is an entire match, to be won or lost each time I fire. If I get an 'X', I win, otherwise, I lose; but when I move on to the next shot, I have another whole, completely separate, match I can win, each and every shot. When conditions are giving everyone fits, I can win with a 10 or a 9, as well.

You cannot fully understand a thing until you can teach it to another, clearly and succinctly. Teaching is the final, and ultimately most important, part of learning process.

My own dryfire regimen does not involve cocking and dropping the sear. Rather, I concentrate on holding the sight picture and squeezing the trigger all the way through to the end of travel. Once I get where I'm comfortable with my ability to hold the sight picture through to trigger contact with the travel stop, I change over to acquiring the sight picture, then closing the eyes until the trigger stop is encountered, then opening the eye to determine how well I remained ontarget based solely on muscle memory. A trend will develop regarding where the sights end up, and this will tell me how my position needs to be adjusted in order to have a truly effective Natural Point of Aim. For this practice evolution, the actual fall of the hammer is an unnecessary distraction. Later, in comp, my prep period will consist primarily of this exercise, so that when the command is given to load and fire, my NPA is properly refined.

Shooting is a physical sport. If the body is not supple and fit enough to sustain the shooting process repetitively to the end of the course of fire without suffering from excess fatigue, no amount of practice of the basics is going to render the shooter's full potential. Core muscles need to be developed for bulk, to provide a solid bone and muscle foundation for the shooting position, and the extremities need to be developed for supple flexibility, to allow the shooting positions to be sustained for extended periods without strain. Cardiovascular health must be cultivated to a peak, to permit uninterrupted and unhurried concentration on sight picture, trigger manipulation, and followthrough. The shot isn't complete until it has impacted the target, and disturbing the shooting concentration before then is practically guaranteed to disrupt the proper followthrough. The target goes down before the head comes up.

Books don't teach muscle memory. That's why there is no substitute for determined repetition. The key point about learning the basics is that the body/mind symphony cannot concentrate on many things simultaneously. So; we need to train all of the basics besides sight picture and trigger manipulation into the muscle memory, where the autonomic nerve/muscle symbiosis handles them while we consciously address the Holy Binary of shot delivery. The value of the rimfire trainer is that it makes the necessary volume of repetition economically affordable and physically sustainable. Sustained repetitive recoil is not a positive aspect of training. It is an aspect, but only in limited quantities.

Marksmanship instructors are not the same people in the service who are drill instructors, and for a good reason. One is a disciplinarian, and the other is an educator.

Instructors; know the difference, recognize when your counselling is beginning to take on the traits of a drill instructor, and back away from that. You can't force your grasshoppers to take things on faith or fear, they need to understand the how and the why of what you're imparting.

Grasshoppers; no matter what you may know, whatever your prior accomplishments have been, assume you know nothing and have never done anything even remotely related to what you are being taught. No matter what you know, no matter what you've accomplished, there is <span style="font-style: italic">always</span> another morsel to gobble up, another way of looking at the process. Work on the basic assumption that just because it's something you know, that doesn't necessarily make it right or best. As long as you've come to learn; learn it all, then decide, based on actual, honest practice, whether what you've learned is a valuable addition to your knowledge. Bear in mind that the odds favor a positive response to that question. Don't dazzle the class with your brilliance, give them good example with your humble eagerness to learn more. Humility always far outweighs pride.

Greg
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Excellent tips. Great guidance for those who are new and even those who think that they know much of this. We tend to forget what we learn when we do not get to practice on a regular basis. Thanks for taking the time to post.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

With the lack of ranges for "LONG RANGE" shooting and so many short ranges as mentioned by MARDUK185 in Sterling Shooter's topic "Long Range Marksmanship", the above recommendation for a 22LR is a clear and easy way to maintain marksmanship skills AND to enhance our youth into marksmanship programs.

And when they have those skills, they easily translate into longer range skills when applied later.

MARDUK185 laments the ability of the military to hit beyond 300 meters and the requirement to call in supporting fires to deal with those issues.
I recently saw the results of the military's training on a recent graduate and after about a month of work with him on a 22LR, fixed the problem the miltary gave him.

Of course, the military issue is not the short ranges issue, its their TRADOC issue of basic rifle training on the pop-up range from 50-500 meters on a 24" wide x 48" tall board target.

fwiw.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Dry firing with a rimfire ain't a big deal, as long as you've got a good barrel. I've dry fired for a long, long time with my anschutz. Likely, you could do it too with a 52, as most of them have a hammer forged barrel. I've never broken a firing pin, nor dinged my chamber. That being said, here's a tip: Pick up your fired brass from your target rifle. If the chamber's any good, it'll go right back in there. If your chamber is belled or bad, it won't go back in. Dry fire on that fired brass. You can take out the brass and re-orient until you've got about 8 strikes on the thing. Works very well. When I was doing a lot of dry firing, if I executed a perfect shot for all "dings" around that case, I'd put it in my pocket as a reminder that I did REALLY well on those 8 shots. Eventually, I had a whole pocket of dinged brass (kept it in my shooting jacket pocket).
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Several Hide members, a lot of them Hardrock guys, got to see the results of such training this weekend.
GRuff, John Boyette, JT-505, Macgulley, Ed Baker, and a few guys whose Hide names I don't know.

Fundamentals, fundamentals, fundamentals.

Mistakes seen were some guys tried to use barricades, trees, and other props to make their position with the rifle, rather than use fundamental shooter body positions and use the barricade, etc, for an assist to the position, rather than use the barricade, etc, for the shooting platform.

It was a good time to see those fundamentals used and the lessons re-inforced.

We learned some other things that I will go into later.
jw
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

thank you jhuskey for this post. I am starting my path to LR shooting. i have never owned nor shot a rifle. i am hoping to find enough information from this forum to make an educated decision on my first rifle purchase. If anyone would like to send me pms with any tips i am an open book and a blank canvas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

From his first post, Huskey says:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Find and read all you can about what you think you want to do. Find a person that shoots who will answer your questions and ask the questions you have from your pre-reading and reading.</div></div>

You don't have a location in your profile. There's a good chance you're close to some Hide members who will be glad to get you started off right.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

A sincere thank you to all who have shared their knowledge and experience in this thread (and I know that there have been many others like this in the past and will be many like this into the future - my thanks extends to those individuals also)
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

If you're looking for a good rifle for trigger time, check out the Savage HMR 17. It has match grade ammo available, is very accurate and comes with the Savage accutrigger. low cost ammo (not as low as the 22L) and sells for about $260 at Bass Pro.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

I was very interested in the .17 rimfires, and especially when the HM2 was introduced. I had to resist the urge to snap one up right away for economics reasons, and had some time to reflect on the whole concept. In the end (well, maybe it's the end...) I chose to resist the urge after all.

It was the very advantages the .17's offer over the .22lr that defeated its choice.

Yes, they are more accurate further out.

But that defeats the .22lr's ability to present a genuine challenge in the minimal space.

They employ jacketed bullet technology.

In a rimfire, that introduces a potential need to clean frequently, because of copper fouling. For me, this is a disadvantage. I eschew cleaning the rimfire rifle, not because I am lazy, but because the .22lr's lube serves as a bore presevative, nearly completely eliminating any post-cleaning fouling requirement (by eliminating the cleaning in the first place) to reestablish a steady fouling/steady accuracy condition. IMHO the jacket's drawbacks outweigh its advantages.

I also believe the combination of rimfire casing and jacketed bullet technologies overcomplicates a system whose very simplicity may be its most valuable advantage. It certainly makes it more expensive, and that defeats the other key advantage of the .22lr.

My guess, if one of them had to lose its marketability; the .22lr would emerge as the ultimate survivor.

So while I find the .17's utterly intriguing, I also find them less than irresistable. There isn't much I can do with them that a well aimed .222/.223 Rem won't do more to my own personal satisfaction. If I'm going to be spending real money for ammo, then I'm also gonna want a crack at handloading it too.

Greg
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Great thread!

For those interested in a starter/training rifle, a .22LR is absolutely the way to go. As mentioned in the post above, the 17HMR and 17M2 defeat the purpose of the trainer: Cheap ammo, and a legitimate challenge at limited ranges.

When I was buying my trainer, a Savage MKII BVTS, there were 2 identical models side by side, a 22LR, and a 17HMR. Man, it was hard to pass up that 17, but I'm glad I did.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

thanks for the greatly needed infromation, all the best equipment does not make one a marksman, marksmanship is a area many are lacking in, used to be every boy had a 22, now they got a ipod, thanks again
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Thank you all for the information given here. I am relatively new to shooting past 200yds and see the importance of fundamentals.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jhuskey</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
a. Find a training rifle that fits. The rifle should fit properly, have a weight that allows the competitor to hold it comfortably in all positions, and has a low power scope that allows the beginner/competitor to shoot as closely as 25 yards.

b. A 22LR rifle is not a bad choice to begin with.

c. Using this 22LR rifle at 25 and 50 yards, the beginner/competitor learns and imprints the fundamentals of shooting on ever increasing smaller targets until they can hold 1INCH groups in all shooting positions at 25 yards, through 10 repetitions. Then 50 yards. Since the 22LR begins to lose it’s edge somewhat at 100 yards, unless a biathlon grade rifle with biathlon grade ammunition, and biathlon grade physical fitness, the next step is to upgrade from the 22LR training rifle to a larger rifle.

</div></div>

At this stage, does ammo quality play into the equation? Can I run bulk packs or should I stick to the good stuff, like CCI Mini-mags?
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

ultimately it depends on what your rimfire "likes" and you may have to try several before you find the right combination.

mini mags aren't generally condidered "good stuff" but agian if it works for you well through your setup, then stay with it.

try the match, standard, or subsonic ammos. the high velocity stuff destabilizes when it starts to drop below the speed of sound (or trans sonic). that little sonic boom causes it to wobble and veer off target. the lower velocities have more drop, but stay "truer" on it's path than the HV.

the more consistancy you get out of your ammo, the better feedback you'll get. the wolf brand of match target or extra match is really consistant ammo to use for this type of training or even matches and seems to work well in most rimfires. it's a little pricey compared to other ammos, but you get a whole lot in return. another to try at a lower cost is CCI standard velocity.

if you want to stick with the even cheaper HV bulk type stuff, try CCI blazers.

once your combo of rifle and ammo matches well, and 25 / 50 yards is getting old, you can stretch it out to 100, then out further. we regularly shoot 200 yards (which simulate a .308 at 500ish yards) even 300 yards and more. this is where good ammo and good fundamentals REALLY start to show in performance on paper.

using the .22lr also gives great input on reading the wind and other environmentals that transfer over really well to centerfire at longer ranges.

the type of quality rimfire rifles that are being produced today are many, even the cheap ones are leaps and bounds built better than those that grandpappy used. it is surprising the amount of accuraccy you can squeeze out of them. many of today's rifles have heavy barrels, special stocks, and decent adjustable triggers - right from the factory. options or accessories that not only make them easier to use or produces more accuraccy are more plentiful than ever, so setting up a rig today doesn't require an olympic rifle setup to perform well at 100+ yards.

no doubt the .22lr is an invaluable tool as a trainer, and is quite the platform for shooting in it's own right as a stand alone platform to begin, maintain, and enhance the effectiveness of your shooting skills / fundamentals.

some other reading you may find interesting pertaining to rimfires:

Thoughts - starting setups "tactical" RF shooting

Thoughts on picking a scope for a rimfire.

Thoughts on Rimfire ammo - Q & A part 1
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

Jhuskey,
Your essay above is thorough and obviously from professional training and experience, and probably the best material I've read on marksmanship. You contribute to our discipline in the most important way. Many of us have no notion of giving, only taking and going about the day trying to win, steal, buy and otherwise take whatever we find useful. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TOP PREDATOR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ultimately it depends on what your rimfire "likes" and you may have to try several before you find the right combination.

mini mags aren't generally condidered "good stuff" but agian if it works for you well through your setup, then stay with it.

<span style="font-weight: bold">try the match, standard, or subsonic ammos. the high velocity stuff destabilizes when it starts to drop below the speed of sound (or trans sonic). that little sonic boom causes it to wobble and veer off target. the lower velocities have more drop, but stay "truer" on it's path than the HV.</span>

the more consistancy you get out of your ammo, the better feedback you'll get. the wolf brand of match target or extra match is really consistant ammo to use for this type of training or even matches and seems to work well in most rimfires. it's a little pricey compared to other ammos, but you get a whole lot in return. another to try at a lower cost is CCI standard velocity.

if you want to stick with the even cheaper HV bulk type stuff, try CCI blazers.

once your combo of rifle and ammo matches well, and 25 / 50 yards is getting old, you can stretch it out to 100, then out further. we regularly shoot 200 yards (which simulate a .308 at 500ish yards) even 300 yards and more. this is where good ammo and good fundamentals REALLY start to show in performance on paper.

using the .22lr also gives great input on reading the wind and other environmentals that transfer over really well to centerfire at longer ranges.

the type of quality rimfire rifles that are being produced today are many, even the cheap ones are leaps and bounds built better than those that grandpappy used. it is surprising the amount of accuraccy you can squeeze out of them. many of today's rifles have heavy barrels, special stocks, and decent adjustable triggers - right from the factory. options or accessories that not only make them easier to use or produces more accuraccy are more plentiful than ever, so setting up a rig today doesn't require an olympic rifle setup to perform well at 100+ yards.

no doubt the .22lr is an invaluable tool as a trainer, and is quite the platform for shooting in it's own right as a stand alone platform to begin, maintain, and enhance the effectiveness of your shooting skills / fundamentals.

some other reading you may find interesting pertaining to rimfires:

Thoughts - starting setups "tactical" RF shooting

Thoughts on picking a scope for a rimfire.

Thoughts on Rimfire ammo - Q & A part 1 </div></div>

What about .22 mag? It's still fairly economical, though maybe not to the extent of .22lr.
 
Re: HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Casey Simpson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jhuskey,
Your essay above is thorough and obviously from professional training and experience, and probably the best material I've read on marksmanship. You contribute to our discipline in the most important way. Many of us have no notion of giving, only taking and going about the day trying to win, steal, buy and otherwise take whatever we find useful. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience. </div></div>

+1. I only hope that I can be at a place to give the same advice.
 
General Statements for Beginning Shooters - Step 1

Multiple posts from the ‘HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1’ thread were re-titled and re-formatted with the permission of the author; j-huskey.

Steps 1, 2 & 3 are now titled "General Statements for Beginning Shooters" and posted on Page 1 of the SH FAQ's located under the Bolt Action Rifles thread. The FAQ Links in each post have been updated and re-ordered.
------------------------------------------------------------

A general statement for beginning shooters (or competitors) by j-huskey.

Maybe we call this Step 1?

Find and read all you can about what you think you want to do. Find a person that shoots who will answer your questions and ask the questions you have from your pre-reading and reading.

It helps to listen to what they tell you. When they tell you, “At least try what I am telling you before you continue to question what I am telling you”, YOU should heed these words. TRY IT.

The quickest way to lose your friendly person who DOES shoot is to FAIL TO LISTEN to what they offer and at least TRY it, before discarding the information they give you.

Ask if you can go shooting with this person; offer to pay for the trip to the range, ammunition, and targets that you would shoot if they were nice enough to let you use their equipment.

Stay friends with the people you meet while doing this. They can coach you through the beginnings of your shooting career.

Find someone, a gunsmith, a shooting coach, or an experienced shooter who can teach you about rifle fit, how to mount and set a scope, and how to zero it.

------------------------------------------------

Some of you will ask, or should ask, "How do I find these people to go shoot with?" who are mentioned in Step 1.

1. Your gun store. Any other gun store in your area...
2. The Hunter Safety course your state may require (ask the instructor).
3. The local Boy Scout troop that may have or still performs the firearms portion.
4. The local police department's firearm instructor, ask that person if they know anyone who teaches basic shooting. And when you speak with these people, just tell them you want to know how to shoot your rifle better for competitions. Ask the instructor where there are rifle competitions as well.
5. The NRA.
6. Internet searches for local ranges in your area. Google "shooting club in XXX (your area, your state)". Shooting Club, Rifle Club, firearms training, etc. You'd be surprised what you can find.
7. Get on as many shooting related web-sites as you can and ask if there is any training or shooters willing to help you train in your area that the people on the site know about. You may get lucky.
8. And of course, the people who advertise here on SH.

-----------------------------------------------

Beginners MUST be told there are fundamentals and how important they are. Beginners should progress to be students.

Students must be taught the fundamentals in both classroom and practical application. The teacher should work through one fundamental at a time and let the student see how each fundamental is a building block for the next fundamental.

As the teacher and student progress, the student will see the fundamentals start to mesh with their understanding of what was taught. As the student sees it happening and sees positive results, the fundamentals start to become part of the student's mental process.

The student SHOULD be taught specifically that the fundamentals are the foundation of all their future shooting, much like a house has to have a solid foundation. It should be explained to the student that with no foundation, the house will fall, and their shooting will fail.

The student would be told in the beginning that without fundamentals, the student will never get to be an expert or a master. The teacher should be able to show the student that like the alphabet, without knowing the alphabet, you cannot make words, and without words you cannot communicate a thought you can see but cannot articulate, because words are important to success. Any example could be used that the student could easily understand, as long as the instructor is capable.

God save us from bad instructors.
 
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General Statements for Beginning Shooters - Step 2

Multiple posts from the ‘HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1’ thread were re-titled and re-formatted with the permission of the author; j-huskey.

Steps 1, 2 & 3 are now titled "General Statements for Beginning Shooters" and posted on Page 1 of the SH FAQ's located under the Bolt Action Rifles thread. The FAQ Links in each post have been updated and re-ordered.
------------------------------------------------------------

Maybe we call this Step 2?

a. Find a training rifle that fits. The rifle should fit properly, have a weight that allows the competitor to hold it comfortably in all positions, and has a low power scope that allows the beginner/competitor to shoot as closely as 25 yards.

b. A 22LR rifle is not a bad choice to begin with.

c. Using this 22LR rifle at 25 and 50 yards, the beginner/competitor learns and imprints the fundamentals of shooting on ever increasing smaller targets until they can hold 1INCH groups in all shooting positions at 25 yards, through 10 repetitions. Then 50 yards. Since the 22LR begins to lose it’s edge somewhat at 100 yards, unless a biathlon grade rifle with biathlon grade ammunition, and biathlon grade physical fitness, the next step is to upgrade from the 22LR training rifle to a larger rifle.

d. Rifle II, should fit properly, have a weight that allows the beginner/competitor to hold it comfortably in all positions, and has a middle range scope that enhances the use from 50 to 200 yards. This rifle also should be a caliber that does not punish the beginner/competitor in recoil. Magnums are NOT recommended. At this point the beginner/competitor should put significant study into a caliber that is readily available, has match grade ammunition, has a proven track record of barrel longevity, and reasonable recoil, then purchase such a rifle.

e. The two most common of these rifles are 308 Winchester and 260 Remington.

f. Using Rifle II, the beginner/competitor learns this rifle’s handling characteristics and continues to imprint the fundamentals of shooting on ever increasing smaller targets until they can hold 1 INCH groups in all shooting positions at 50 yards, through 10 repetitions. Then 100 yards (1 INCH groups) and further to 200 yards (2 INCH groups). Past these distances, holding MOA groups should be the shooter’s goal.

g. The beginner/competitor should begin to train at further distances, “stretching their legs”, gaining experience and knowledge, learning their level experience needs to be broadened as external ballistics are now coming into play with extended distances. A good coach here is a very good idea.

h. The beginner/competitor should start attending some forms of competition with this rifle, and with the gained experience may decide that Rifle II meets their needs. However, the beginner/competitor may find that a 3rd rifle selection may be in order to meet specific competition needs.

i. This is the path many national champions have taken to reach national championship. The above events are a clear example of “crawl, walk, run.” This is a proven formula.

At this point, the beginner/competitor has established the fundamentals of marksmanship with at least two rifles, has begun to stretch their limits, learning their present limits, and has gained some idea of where they wish to advance to.

More to follow:

------------------------------------------------

And, I know some of you may not like the idea of buying a 22LR for the first rifle. Some good reasons for doing this are:

1. The rifle is reasonably priced for most people.
2. A Nikon 4.5-14 mildot scope is pretty cheap too and will work very well for what you want to do.
3. The ammunition is very affordable. Remember, you need 3000-5000 repetitions to get a physical action imprinted.
4. There are way more places to shoot a 22LR than there are "the evil Sniper rifle".
5. There are way more people who would be willing to help with a 22LR than they would be if you had a more intimidating rifle.
6. A 22LR is a rifle that your dad, mom, brother, sister, girlfriend, wife, son, daughter, cousin etc would enjoy shooting and would be the easiest way to get them involved in your shooting sport. Think support....
7. A 22LR is easy to go back to when you don't have time or a place to carry the bigger rifle.
8. A 22LR is a great small game hunting and survival rifle.
9. A large number of professionals recommend it.
10. A 22LR is just plain fun.

To do Step 2 mentioned above, a 22LR can be as challenging as anything else you will ever do with a rifle.

------------------------------------------------

Yes, I know, this is here in another post, but this IS the most important part of you learning to shoot, knowing AND applying the fundamentals.

The best way to start on these is to DRY FIRE your weapon at home before ever going to the range. Try at least 1000 dry fires before you ever shoot a live round.

Put a dot on the wall and assume the most stable shooting position you can get into in your house, prone or off your table, and dry fire until your sight picture does not move off the target. Repeating, Try at least 1000 dry fires before you ever shoot a live round.

FUNDAMENTALS OF MARKSMANSHIP:

*HOW TO HOLD AND SHOOT YOUR RIFLE: Aka The Fundamentals of Marksmanship. (for a scoped rifle class)

*How to Hold, *Aim, *Eye Relief, *Sight Alignment, *Sight Picture, *Breathing, *Trigger Manipulation, *Follow Through, and *Recovery.

When your rifle fits you properly and you have learned to properly clean and maintain your rifle, you must learn how to hold the rifle. ACCURACY IS A FUNCTION OF CONSISTENCY, BOTH WITH THE RIFLE AND AMMUNITION, AND THE SHOOTER'S ACTIONS. You must hold the rifle the same way each time. You will practice holding the rifle, your sight picture, your breathing, and trigger manipulation through dry firing. You will practice building a good steady, stable, solid position each time, bone on bone, not held by muscle power. Although you have to exert some muscle control, the position should be a natural relaxed position to avoid muscle fatigue, tension, and shaking that occurs after muscles are overextended for any period of time. You will check your natural point of aim before each shot.
NATURAL POINT OF AIM is a position that allows the rifle to point naturally at the target without any muscle tension required to hold it on point of aim. You should keep the same position each time, changing nothing, to maintain consistency, to keep your natural point of aim the same each time. Before beginning this portion, or preceding sections, or any exercises, you should stretch first to loosen up your muscles. Besides the natural relaxing effect of stretching, it helps to prepare you mentally as well. Being physically fit will help you shoot better, and if you are not physically fit, you should make it a point to become fit.

*HOW TO HOLD YOUR RIFLE:
Assume the prone supported firing position.
The front of the rifle will rest either on a bipod attached to the stock or on a sandbag placed under the front of the stock.
Use the non-firing hand to support the butt of the rifle. Place your hand next to your chest and rest the TIP of the butt of the rifle on top of your hand. Ball your hand into a fist to raise the butt of the rifle or relax your fist to lower the butt of the rifle. A preferred method is to use a sock filled with sand or a small sand bag placed in your non firing hand and squeeze it to raise the rifle butt and release the bag to lower the rifle butt. Using this sock or bag method lessens body contact with the rifle and can eliminate an added human variable.
Place the butt of the rifle firmly in the pocket of the shoulder. The shooter can place a pad in his clothing in the pocket of his shoulder to reduce pulse beat and breathing movement.
With the firing hand grip the small or pistol grip of the stock. Using the middle through little fingers, exert a slight rearward pull to keep the butt of the rifle firmly in the pocket of the shoulder. Place the thumb over the top of the pistol grip of the stock. Place the index or trigger finger on the trigger and insure it does not touch the stock and does not disturb the lay of the rifle when the trigger is pulled.
Find a comfortable position for your elbows that provide the greatest support for you and your rifle without creating a strain.
Place your cheek in the same place on the stock each time. This is called the stock weld. Changing your position changes sight alignment and will cause misplaced shots.

*AIMING THE RIFLE:
Begin the aiming process by aligning the rifle with the target when assuming a firing position. THE RIFLE SHOULD POINT NATURALLY AT THE DESIRED AIMING POINT. No muscular tension or movement should be necessary to hold the rifle on target. To check the Natural Point of Aim (NPA), you assume a comfortable, STABLE, firing position. Place your cheek on the stock at the correct stock weld then breath, and entering the natural respiratory pause, look away from the scope moving only your eye and relax. Let the rifle drift to its natural point of aim, then look back through the scope. If the crosshairs remain on the correct position on the target, the natural point of aim is correct.
If the NPA is not correct, you must change your body position to bring the sights on the target. If muscles are used to bring the rifle to NPA, the muscles will relax when the rifle is fired and the rifle will begin to move to its NPA. Because this movement begins just before the weapon discharges, the rifle is moving as the bullet leaves the muzzle. This causes displaced shots with no apparent cause as recoil disguises the movement. By adjusting the rifle and body as a single unit, rechecking, and readjusting as necessary, you achieve a true natural point of aim. Once this position of established, you will them aim the rifle at the exact point on the target. Aiming involves three areas, eye relief, sight alignment, and sight picture.

*EYE RELIEF:
This is the distance from the firing eye to the scope tube. This distance is fairly constant with a scope. You should take care to avoid injury by the scope tube striking the eyebrow during recoil.
You should place your head as upright as possible behind the scope with your eye directly behind the scope. This head placement allows the muscles around your eye to relax. Incorrect head placement causes you to have to look out the corner of your eye resulting in muscle strain, causing blurred vision and eye strain. Eye strain can be avoided by not staring through the scope for long periods of time and correct stock weld alleviates eye strain as well by maintaining consistent eye relief.

*SIGHT ALIGNMENT:
Sight alignment is the relationship between the crosshairs (reticule) and field of view. You must place your head behind the scope so a full field of view appears in the scope tube with NO DARK SHADOWS OR CRESENTS. Center the reticule in a full field of view with the vertical crosshair straight up to ensure the scope is not canted.

*SIGHT PICTURE:
Sight picture is centering the reticule with a full field of view on the target as seen by you. Place the reticule crosshairs on what portion of the target you wish to hit.

*BREATHING:
You must exercise breathing control during the aiming process. Breathing while trying to aim, with the natural up and down motion of the chest while breathing, causes the rifle to move up and down. Up and down movement occurs while lying down. Breathing movement can be side to side when sitting at a bench rest type table when your body is against the table. You must therefore accomplish sight alignment while breathing and finish aiming while you are not breathing. You do this by inhaling, exhaling, and stop at the moment of natural respiratory pause before beginning to inhale again.
You do NOT try to HOLD your breath, this takes a specific type of muscle control, and it takes away from the natural relaxed position you need for consistency in shooting.
A respiratory cycle lasts four to five seconds. Inhalation and exhalation take only about two seconds, thus between each respiratory cycle there is a pause of two to three seconds. This pause can be extended to ten seconds without any special effort or unpleasant sensations. You should fire during this pause when your breathing muscles are relaxed. This avoids strain on the diaphragm.
You should assume your firing position and breath naturally until your hold begins to settle.
The respiratory pause should never feel un-natural. If it is too long, the body suffers from oxygen deprivation and begins to send out signals to resume breathing. These signals produce involuntary movements of the diaphragm which interfere with the shooters concentration and lack of movement needed to make a correct shot.

*TRIGGER CONTROL:
Trigger control is the most important fundamental of marksmanship. It is defined as causing the rifle to fire when the sight picture is at its very best, without causing the rifle to move.
Trigger Squeeze on the other hand is defined as the independent action of the forefinger on the trigger with a uniformly increasing pressure on the trigger straight to the rear until the rifle fires. Trigger Control is the last task to be accomplished before the rifle fires.
Proper trigger control occurs when the shooter places his firing finger as low on the trigger as possible and still clears the trigger guard, thereby achieving maximum mechanical advantage. He engages the trigger with that part of his firing finger (middle of the pad of the last digit) that allows him to pull the trigger straight to the rear. In order to avoid transferring movement of the finger to the entire rifle, the sniper should see daylight between the trigger finger and the stock as he squeezes the trigger straight to the rear. He fires the weapon when the reticule is in a position to insure a properly placed shot, or when the reticule is on target.
As the stability of a firing position decreases, the wobble area increases. The larger the wobble area, the harder it is to fire the shot without reacting to it, attempting to influence the sight placement when the trigger breaks. This reaction occurs when the shooter:
1. Anticipates recoil. The firing shoulder begins to move forward just before the rifle fires, thus pushing the rifle out of line with the target.
2. Jerks the Trigger. The trigger finger moves the trigger in a quick, choppy, spasmodic attempt to fire the shot before the reticule can move from the desired point of aim.
3. Flinches. The shooter's entire body (or parts thereof) overreacts to the anticipated noise or recoil (jerks). This is usually due to unfamiliarity with the weapon.
4. Avoids Recoil. The shooter tries to avoid recoil or noise by moving away from the weapon or by closing the firing eye just before the weapon fires. This again is caused by unfamiliarity with the weapon and a lack of knowledge of the weapon's actions upon firing.
Trigger control is best handled by assuming a stable position, adjusting on the target, and beginning a breathing cycle. As the shooter exhales the final breath approaching the natural respiratory pause, he secures his finger on the trigger. As the reticule settles on the target at the desired point of aim, and the natural respiratory pause is entered, the shooter applies initial pressure to the trigger. He increases the tension on the trigger during the respiratory pause as long as the reticule remains on the desired point of aim to insure a properly placed shot. If the reticule moves away from the desired point of aim, and the respiratory pause is free of strain or tension, the shooter stops increasing the tension on the trigger, waits for the reticule to return to the desired point of aim, and then continues to squeeze the trigger. This is trigger control. If movement is too large for recovery, or if the respiratory pause has become uncomfortable (extended too long), then the shooter should whenever possible, release the pressure off the trigger and start the respiratory cycle again.

*FOLLOW THROUGH:
Applying the fundamentals increases the odds of a well aimed shot being fired. There are however, additional skills, that when mastered, make the first round correct hit even more of a certainty. One of these skills is follow through.
a. This is the act of continuing to apply all the marksmanship fundamentals as the weapon fires as well as after the weapon fires. Follow through consists of:
* Keeping the head in firm contact with the stock (stock weld) upon firing and after firing.
* Keeping the finger on the trigger pulling all the way to the rear when and after the weapon fires.
* Continuing to look through the scope when and after the weapon fires.
* Insuring the muscles stay relaxed when and after the weapon fires.
* Avoid reacting to the recoil or noise during and after firing.
* Releasing the trigger only after the recoil has stopped.
b. Good follow through insures that the weapon is allowed to fire and recoil naturally, and the shooter/rifle combination reacts as a single unit to such actions.

*CALLING THE SHOT:
Calling the shot is being able to tell where the bullet should impact on the target. The shooter must be able to accurately call the shots. Proper follow through will aid in calling the shot. The dominant factor in calling the shot is, where-ever the reticule is when the shot is fired. This location is called the final focus point.

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The reigning national champions in most of the shooting disciplines for this year (2008) have stated in print more than once, the fundamentals of marksmanship are the most important basic building block for a shooter.
For a shooter to not master the fundamentals, or re-check them each time they fire a shot, is a risk at failure. The reigning champions will tell you they have a mental checklist of the fundamentals they run through each shot.

The US Military uses these fundamentals in all disciplines to bring new shooters up to a level where they can "appreciate" the need to know more advanced topics like range and wind measurement and estimation, along with knowledge of compensation from drop and wind deflection.

Mastery of the fundamentals has been seen to be one of the most continually asked questions of a generation not raised with firearms or the access to a good coach and controlled practice.

Knowledge of the fundamentals without practical experience is not going to produce a skilled marksman. Knowledge and poor practice will not produce a skilled marksman.
Knowledge, positive practice, lessons learned, corrections made, and continued practice under known conditions build a basic foundation to a skilled marksman.
Once that foundation is laid, the marksman should advance to more advanced topics.

Too much, too fast, is detrimental to a student trying to learn. Remember, Crawl, Walk, Run.
 
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General Statements for Beginning Shooters - Step 3

Multiple posts from the ‘HOME IMPROVEMENT SHOOTING, PART 1’ thread were re-titled and re-formatted with the permission of the author; j-huskey.

Steps 1, 2 & 3 are now titled "General Statements for Beginning Shooters" and posted on Page 1 of the SH FAQ's located under the Bolt Action Rifles thread. The FAQ Links in each post have been updated and re-ordered.
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Maybe we call this Step 3?

Going to competitions at this point in their shooting career will give beginner/competitor a much higher degree of satisfaction than the person who jumps in with a high dollar match rifle, scope, and gear, but lacks the fundamentals of shooting firmly ingrained through training.

A beginner/competitor who follows this written regimen with also have a higher degree of satisfaction than the shooter who began with a specific shooting pattern, ie, always shooting prone at all distances, with bags and rests that remove the human factor from their shooting. The bag/rest/prone shooter still needs to establish the fundamentals of shooting in all positions to be successful in other shooting outside their comfort zone.

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Maybe we call this “the not so good stuff”?

Unfortunately in this world, 2008, many people read the military manuals and “tactical” books that teach the scoped rifle venue, ie, the “sniper”, and this begins with the bag/rest/prone shooting syndrome. Many believe this system will teach them all they need to know about shooting.
Police Sniper training has been the victim of this for many years and is still a difficult mindset to break.

Those who know about the military “sniper” training know that the trainee at these schools has been trained in basic marksmanship before being accepted to the schools. The school trainee also had to shoot at an advanced level of performance before being accepted, is generally in very good physical shape, and is highly motivated to successfully graduate from the school.

The military school trainee is a far cry from the internet reader, novice shooter without a coach or mentor, or beginner who knows how to investigate written material to start their shooting experiment, and who start their shooting experiment with those manuals, but not the prior experience.

Those shooters who start their shooting experiment with those manuals, but not the prior experience, may need to unlearn what they think is proper shooting habit and start with the above mentioned basics to establish the fundamentals of shooting.

So these guys might need to go back to Step 1 and find the right people, definitely do Step 2, then Step 3.
 
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Many thanks to both j-huskey and JT505 (and all the others with great info posted) for this thread. I've had to copy it onto a word document so that I can study and read this later when I have time. This is great information that everyone should read at first and many times as you progress along.

I know that in my case, the more that I practice and learn the more I know that I need to practice and learn.
 
Hello i am curious about the different shooting positions, ive never even thought about it! ive always shot off a bench or prone. how do i go about learning to shoot accuratley, and what kind of distance can a respectable shooter engage a target and hold MOA?
 
I agree with the OP's suggestion for .22 rimfire to start. Then if you're serious about learning to truly shoot better, start shooting in competition. That is on paper, with scores, NRA bullseye target shooting. Like they say about football on monday morning, film don't lie, well, the target doesn't lie either. Smallbore shoots prone only, or 3/4 position. Smallbore WILL expose technical errors in your position or trigger control in a hurry. There's not enough wind at 50 yds to matter, but being a little lazy in establishing that NPA even on a prone shot WILL guarantee a "9". Then after smallbore, I would suggest a .223/5.56 AR service rifle. Shooting highpower. Its less expensive to feed the AR then 7.62 or other larger rounds so you get more shooting in, and the recoil is negligible. Yes, the X ring at 600 yds is 1 MOA. In good conditions, I have shot high 190s with ~10x on a 20 shot string at 600, with an AR with iron sights. It makes you much more attuned to the changes in wind conditions than when I shoot the 6XC. Those fundamentals translate easily to a scoped rifle, as I am only changing the sighting system. The rest: the NPA, sight alignment, breath and trigger control, the conditions are the same. I still shoot smallbore occasionally to "tighten" me up and its easier to get to a 100yd range than a 600-1k range. Shoot, even though I hold HM in HP across the course, Mid Range and Long Range prone, I can "only" get an expert in smallbore prone.