Homemade Induction Annealer

[Ryridesmotox]

In the words of USPS... if it fits, mother fucker ships.

I was worried that it might somehow disrupt the current or magnetic field, but it seems to work fine.


I'm going to add some cooling fans also.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

In the words of USPS... if it fits, mother fucker ships.

I was worried that it might somehow disrupt the current or magnetic field, but it seems to work fine.


I'm going to add some cooling fans also.

View attachment 7269434

That's pretty badass. What parts list did you use?

 

[Ryridesmotox]

That's pretty badass. What parts list did you use?

The same one @TSloper used. I just arranged it to fit in the box. Unfortunately, when I had it on the bench, I had cut the wires nice and short. So it was a bit of a stretch for a few. When I wire up a fan, I'll likely get some more wire and redo it

 

[davere]

Here's mine... 48V, 750W supply was the expensive part, but with current limiting and a 3/4" ID coil (1" ID on the video - I went a little smaller after I filmed), I push it right to 750W. With the liquid cooling system, the Sestos timer, and the beefier power supply, I'm into it for around $400.

 

[never_summer]

@davere how difficult was it to wire up and create?

 

[Ryridesmotox]

Here's mine... 48V, 750W supply was the expensive part, but with current limiting and a 3/4" ID coil (1" ID on the video - I went a little smaller after I filmed), I push it right to 750W. With the liquid cooling system, the Sestos timer, and the beefier power supply, I'm into it for around $400.

That thing is a beast. What kind of case is that? Did you make it out of wood?

 

[davere]

@davere how difficult was it to wire up and create?

It wasn’t bad at all - if you can follow a wiring schematic, very straightforward. I didn’t really create anything - I followed the same thread on accurateahooter.com that was mentioned earlier.

That thing is a beast. What kind of case is that? Did you make it out of wood?

I made the case (poorly) from some birch plywood I had laying around. I figured I’d hack something together to prototype and build a better case later, but I haven’t made it around to it, yet.

 

[Ryridesmotox]

It wasn’t bad at all - if you can follow a wiring schematic, very straightforward. I didn’t really create anything - I followed the same thread on accurateahooter.com that was mentioned earlier.



I made the case (poorly) from some birch plywood I had laying around. I figured I’d hack something together to prototype and build a better case later, but I haven’t made it around to it, yet.

It's cool, I might have to try it later on. If I can water cool mine, I would love to automate it.

 

[davere]

It's cool, I might have to try it later on. If I can water cool mine, I would love to automate it.

I may end up adding more automation in the future (namely, a case feeder). If I go that route, I’ll convert to Arduino for control, first, and add some sensors, etc. It’s fun to do this stuff - in the end, though, I might have as much into it as an AMP, so it might be easier to go that route, long term, but then I wouldn’t learn anything along the way, either ?

 

[Ryridesmotox]

I may end up adding more automation in the future (namely, a case feeder). If I go that route, I’ll convert to Arduino for control, first, and add some sensors, etc. It’s fun to do this stuff - in the end, though, I might have as much into it as an AMP, so it might be easier to go that route, long term, but then I wouldn’t learn anything along the way, either ?

I heard that. Im trying to keep costs low. So I'm not going to dump a ton of money into the home built one. I just wanted a more reliable and easier way than flame and drill to anneal

 

[Dolomite_Supafly]

@TSloper

I need to look at it more closely to see what voltages are acceptable. Functionally yes it looks good but I’m not sure it can be run off of 24V directly like the other timer.

Could you run a 12V power supply to run the two channel. Have one of those 12V channels go to the 24V timed controller and the other channel go to a 12V solenoid to drop the case after it has been annealed. The 24V controller just needs an input to tell it when to start. Set channel 2 time so it drops a few seconds after the annealing is done.

I am probably going to use your setup above then add a 12V power supply to run a 12V door lock like this. Hit the start button and when it is done hit the drop button. I already have a 12V power supply for a different project.

 

[davere]

I finally had some time to play with a new coil and fired it up. Unfortunately the power supply I have is not up to the task being 48v. The current draw is simply too high and causes it to trip running anything larger than .223. I did try adjusting the pot down and it allows me to reach 38.75v but I am still pulling over 12.5A and tripping.

You can adjust how much of the case is in the coil - that may help on current draw.

This is exactly why I dropped the extra coin and went with a supply that can do current limiting. It was a pretty penny, but I'm able to dump all 750W the supply has into the coil without fear of tripping the supply or a fuse.

 

[never_summer]

Is everything else pretty much the same just a different power supply? Do you remember which one by chance?

 

[davere]

Is everything else pretty much the same just a different power supply? Do you remember which one by chance?

Basically the same, yeah - I think it's the same induction board, anyway. The other parts are all somewhat variable, just depending on your abilities to tie them all together. I'm using Meanwell RSP-750-48. You'll have to do a tiny bit of additional wiring to enable current limiting on the power supply (basically, there's a jumper on the board that you'll have to connect up to a 5v supply - and you can add a resistor to limit it further). Basically, as the supply detects an over current situation, it'll reduce the voltage to keep the supply from exceeding it's max rating.

I bought it from Mouser: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...lZ%2BBps59waQoQmaqBpXPj10IcVPe3ROE6Jh8vuR7g==

 

[Bradv86]

You can adjust how much of the case is in the coil - that may help on current draw.

This is exactly why I dropped the extra coin and went with a supply that can do current limiting. It was a pretty penny, but I'm able to dump all 750W the supply has into the coil without fear of tripping the supply or a fuse.

The larger coil I made with 3/16 tubing was the ticket for my power supply. Hindsight is 20/20 and I would have done better with the larger supply but I started my project before this thread came about unfortunately.

Lowering my shelf did indeed keep me from tripping, however the heat did not creep into the shoulder quickly enough before the neck was very bright red. The slightly larger coil allows me to keep more case in the coil for an even heating.

 

[davere]

The larger coil I made with 3/16 tubing was the ticket for my power supply. Hindsight is 20/20 and I would have done better with the larger supply but I started my project before this thread came about unfortunately.

Lowering my shelf did indeed keep me from tripping, however the heat did not creep into the shoulder quickly enough before the neck was very bright red. The slightly larger coil allows me to keep more case in the coil for an even heating.

There's definitely a balance between all of those factors - coil design is a little bit black magic.

One other thought - and this totally might not work at all... You could potentially wire a power resistor (or multiples in series) between the supply and induction board to pull the voltage down at the induction board input. I don't know if you could find a voltage that would keep the induction at a level where it won't draw 12.5A out of the supply or not - that would be the part that may not work. I'm not a EE and barely understand anything about electronics, so I could be completely wrong - it may not work at all. But, it's a thought... You'd need a resistor that can dissipate a lot of power - like, probably rated to at least 450 watts (so, you'd probably wire several smaller resistors in series to get there... but... it'd be EXPENSIVE - maybe enough to pay for a different power supply, honestly)

 

[Bradv86]

There's definitely a balance between all of those factors - coil design is a little bit black magic.

One other thought - and this totally might not work at all... You could potentially wire a power resistor (or multiples in series) between the supply and induction board to pull the voltage down at the induction board input. I don't know if you could find a voltage that would keep the induction at a level where it won't draw 12.5A out of the supply or not - that would be the part that may not work. I'm not a EE and barely understand anything about electronics, so I could be completely wrong - it may not work at all. But, it's a thought... You'd need a resistor that can dissipate a lot of power - like, probably rated to at least 450 watts (so, you'd probably wire several smaller resistors in series to get there... but... it'd be EXPENSIVE - maybe enough to pay for a different power supply, honestly)

I am no EE either. That is why I didn't consider how high the current might be at 48V. 600W sounded like plenty of power, until Tsloper helped me build an efficient coil haha.

I think just reducing the output voltage will just slow my heating times, and may cause further trouble on .308 and .260 cases. With the 3/16 tubing coil in place that he specced out I am able to successfully anneal .204 ruger up to .308win. the 3/16 tubing coil may be less efficient than the smaller 1/8 tubing coil for those case sizes, but it does allow for 12.5a or less draw with the supply at ~38v when doing .308.

If I were doing it over I would just buy a 48V 1000w supply. If I were to upgrade now I would just buy a matching 600w supply, set the voltages independently, and then wire them in parallel.

 

[davere]

I am no EE either. That is why I didn't consider how high the current might be at 48V. 600W sounded like plenty of power, until Tsloper helped me build an efficient coil haha.

I think I digested, like, 85 pages of thread on the accurateshooter.com forum about the annealer design I chose before I started ordering stuff (edit to add - it was actually about 45 pages... my posts start on the thread around there...). Ha ha. One thing I learned was exactly what you found - without some form of current control, folks had to make adjustments in case insert depth, etc, to avoid drawing too much current. The initial design over there uses a slightly different coil dimension (1/8" copper tube, 8 turns at 1" ID). Most of them were using 600w supplies. A couple folks started picking up on bigger supplies and ones that support current control as a way to shorten annealing times and also prevent the supply from being overloaded. A couple folks roasted induction boards, too, because they had a power supply that will deliver more than the 1000w rating, and the board will suicide itself with enough power. So, 750w seemed like a good sweet spot.

Later, I wound a smaller coil (same material, 8 turns at 3/4" ID), and that allowed me to use the full capability of my power supply.

I think just reducing the output voltage will just slow my heating times, and may cause further trouble on .308 and .260 cases. With the 3/16 tubing coil in place that he specced out I am able to successfully anneal .204 ruger up to .308win. the 3/16 tubing coil may be less efficient than the smaller 1/8 tubing coil for those case sizes, but it does allow for 12.5a or less draw with the supply at ~38v when doing .308.

Sounds like you've balanced it out - as long as you're not getting too much heat into the body of the case, you're GTG.

If I were doing it over I would just buy a 48V 1000w supply. If I were to upgrade now I would just buy a matching 600w supply, set the voltages independently, and then wire them in parallel.

That could work... it could also release the magic smoke from one or both supplies - and at 1200w potential, you could also nuke your induction board (it's still a 1000w board, right?). But, it's definitely an interesting thought. I'll have to research that option a little more - parallel voltage sources can behave kind of strange, as I understand them.

 

[Bradv86]

I think I digested, like, 85 pages of thread on the accurateshooter.com forum about the annealer design I chose before I started ordering stuff. Ha ha. One thing I learned was exactly what you found - without some form of current control, folks had to make adjustments in case insert depth, etc, to avoid drawing too much current. The initial design over there uses a slightly different coil dimension (1/8" copper tube, 8 turns at 1" ID). Most of them were using 600w supplies. A couple folks started picking up on bigger supplies and ones that support current control as a way to shorten annealing times and also prevent the supply from being overloaded. A couple folks roasted induction boards, too, because they had a power supply that will deliver more than the 1000w rating, and the board will suicide itself with enough power. So, 750w seemed like a good sweet spot.

Later, I wound a smaller coil (same material, 8 turns at 3/4" ID), and that allowed me to use the full capability of my power supply.



Sounds like you've balanced it out - as long as you're not getting too much heat into the body of the case, you're GTG.



That could work... it could also release the magic smoke from one or both supplies - and at 1200w potential, you could also nuke your induction board (it's still a 1000w board, right?). But, it's definitely an interesting thought. I'll have to research that option a little more - parallel voltage sources can behave kind of strange, as I understand them.

Yeah I am running the 1kw board.
Mean Well's online manual states that two matching supplies can indeed run parallel if the voltage is matched before connecting them. To protect the board I would add in a volt / amp meter and creep up on power to not overload the board.

 

[davere]

Yeah I am running the 1kw board.
Mean Well's online manual states that two matching supplies can indeed run parallel if the voltage is matched before connecting them. To protect the board I would add in a volt / amp meter and creep up on power to not overload the board.

That's handy - good to know!

 

[VroomPssh]

well I may be stuck at home for a bit so this gives me something to do.

 

[beenjammin]

Here's mine... 48V, 750W supply was the expensive part, but with current limiting and a 3/4" ID coil (1" ID on the video - I went a little smaller after I filmed), I push it right to 750W. With the liquid cooling system, the Sestos timer, and the beefier power supply, I'm into it for around $400.

I want this... Add a dillon XL 650 to drop and its a done deal

 

[Gustav7]

That's handy - good to know!

What did you use for the automatic case drop? A door switch of some sort and wired it into your timer?

Do you have a link by chance. Trying to get a parts list together based off this thread.

 

[davere]

What did you use for the automatic case drop? A door switch of some sort and wired it into your timer?

It's just a solenoid - you can see it in the video from one of the angles. I just fashioned a sliding door that the solenoid pulls. It's under spring tension to return it to position when the solenoid releases.

Do you have a link by chance. Trying to get a parts list together based off this thread.

This is the one I used: https://www.jameco.com/shop/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=10001&productId=2201818

The thread on accurateshooter.com has a pretty complete parts list, too - good place to start!

 

[Gustav7]

It's just a solenoid - you can see it in the video from one of the angles. I just fashioned a sliding door that the solenoid pulls. It's under spring tension to return it to position when the solenoid releases.



This is the one I used: https://www.jameco.com/shop/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=10001&productId=2201818

The thread on accurateshooter.com has a pretty complete parts list, too - good place to start!

thank you, will do. I haven’t looked at that thread yet so I’ll head that way.

 

[davere]

thank you, will do. I haven’t looked at that thread yet so I’ll head that way.

There’s a lot to read - the first 30-40 pages cover all the bases you need, but later in the thread, some of the sharp cats on there are working on reverse engineering the AMP’s Aztec mode. While not at all as refined as AMP’s setup, they actually seem to be on to something. Kinda cool!

 

[Gustav7]

There’s a lot to read - the first 30-40 pages cover all the bases you need, but later in the thread, some of the sharp cats on there are working on reverse engineering the AMP’s Aztec mode. While not at all as refined as AMP’s setup, they actually seem to be on to something. Kinda cool!

It always amazes me how the firearm community finds a way when there are shortage of companies doing stuff like this. I mean, I realize AMP is... but if this was golfing there'd be 10 companies already doing crazy research on it lol.

Love seeing SME's get at it to benefit the firearm world. This is advanced stuff for me, so I'll stick to the basic design. I don't shoot competition anyways, so more of a fun project with benefits.

 

[Ryridesmotox]

Did a bunch of cases today. This was the first one today (tester case) might have overdone it backed it down a bit after this one just in case. It was for a friend of mine, this one was on the same setting as my Jag brass and seemed to have the heat propagate further in the same amount of time.

 

[davere]

Did a bunch of cases today. This was the first one today (tester case) might have overdone it backed it down a bit after this one just in case. It was for a friend of mine, this one was on the same setting as my Jag brass and seemed to have the heat propagate further in the same amount of time.

In terms of how much of the case appears to be annealed, that looks fine. But, you want to make sure that it's not getting past 750 or so too much further down the case, and that you're not overdoing it on the mouth and neck. The best feel we have for that is Tempilaq, which is - at best - a blunt instrument. Someone else described using pin gauges to test how effectively the necks are responding to sizing. I'm going to experiment with that, myself, because it seems like a logical way to measure the effect (outside of having a Vickers hardness tester on hand)

 

[Ryridesmotox]

In terms of how much of the case appears to be annealed, that looks fine. But, you want to make sure that it's not getting past 750 or so too much further down the case, and that you're not overdoing it on the mouth and neck. The best feel we have for that is Tempilaq, which is - at best - a blunt instrument. Someone else described using pin gauges to test how effectively the necks are responding to sizing. I'm going to experiment with that, myself, because it seems like a logical way to measure the effect (outside of having a Vickers hardness tester on hand)

750 goes from normal color to totally burnt. I think it has something to do with how fast things are getting annealed. I will probably do more coating further down the case going forward. Either way the annealer works pretty well.

 

[spife7980]

750 goes from normal color to totally burnt. I think it has something to do with how fast things are getting annealed. I will probably do more coating further down the case going forward. Either way the annealer works pretty well.

Yep, and depending on how deep the case shoulders are in relation to the case neck and how wide the air gap around it all is you can move the case deeper or shallower to try and synchronize when the neck and shoulders get to the turn point together. Then with a tenth of a second timer resolution you can really tell that .1 makes a difference and .3 seconds more means you go from clear to cooked on black. In my annie at least...

 

[Ryridesmotox]

Yep, and depending on how deep the case shoulders are in relation to the case neck and how wide the air gap around it all is you can move the case deeper or shallower to try and synchronize when the neck and shoulders get to the turn point together. Then with a tenth of a second timer resolution you can really tell that .1 makes a difference and .3 seconds more means you go from clear to cooked on black. In my annie at least...

Yea I may play with depth a bit. It's really weird though. Some brass changes like the one pictured above, and some doesnt. For some reason my Jag 308 brass doesn't change color. I could run it like another 2 seconds and it wont change color. Not sure if that's because the alloy is different or thickness or what. I kinda figured it would all turn color a little. But it's still getting annealed per the tempilaq on it. I dunno, I'm still learning and testing. So hopefully I figure it out lol.

I know color change isn't a good indicator, but I figured it would change some. For reference, below is a pic of my jag brass after annealing

 

[spife7980]

Some does, some doesnt, some does at first and doesnt later, some does later but not at first, some does if dirty etc

The tempilaq only knows temperature.

 

[Westwood]

Here's my build. I mostly used information from the accurateshooter "induction brass annealer redux" thread also, I suggest checking it out. TSloper and northern50 helped inspire some design choices.. ty to you both. My build would be considered a "plain jane" model according to the above mentioned thread, no current limiting features and a 600W PS. It's stuffed inside a hammond 1416o enclosure and gets the job done, but certainly not perfect. Plenty of room for improvement for a 2.0, but what I'm in for with this 1.0 build is already between the Annie and AMP! This was my first ever electronic project, I'm confident anyone can do it if they want to.

An interesting difference in annealing time between two manufacturer's cases; Hornady 7.62x39 gets to temp in 3.5s while Jagemann 7.62x39 takes more than double that ~7.4s. Jagemann cases on average weigh about 1g more than Hornady...thicker walls? I expected variations in annealing time between brands, but not this much. Got any insight or conjuncture?

 

[Lunchbox27]

Some of these are impressive. Here I am, annealing like a Pilgrim with a drill and torch. Was looking at getting an Annie... but I got a lot of free time with this lockdown.

To Amazon I go...

 

[Ryridesmotox]

Some of these are impressive. Here I am, annealing like a Pilgrim with a drill and torch. Was looking at getting an Annie... but I got a lot of free time with this lockdown.

To Amazon I go...

I did that for a LONG time. I probably have at least 10k miles on my makita

 

[TSerrao]

The proper coil size is a function of coil diameter, number of turns, and diameter of the copper itself. The closer the coil diameter is to the diameter of the brass the more efficient it will be. The number of turns and diameter of the copper will dictate the inductance. This in turn combined with the capacitors will dictate the resonant frequency. I believe my resonant frequency measured out around 120 kHz. Too high and you will lose efficiency.

Short of paying for a metallurgy lab to analyze samples you have to test indirectly with the pins. It is very obvious with proper pin gauges when you have it dialed in correctly. Even if the temperature goes past 1000F it doesn’t mean you’ve over annealed. It’s all about time duration at that point. If it was only about peak temperature our brass would come out or the chamber annealed but it doesn’t. The temps are too brief. The advantage of induction annealing is you have a timer that is down to the tenth of a second and is repeatable. The brass will drop below annealing temps very quickly. Manual flame and salt simply can’t achieve the resolution on time needed to hit the right window. Glow present or not is worthless as a determination of proper annealing temp/time.

Hi Tim, I'm new in the forum, but I was reading all the notes you and some other guys were doing regarding the annealing with the ZVS and here I'm facing some huge problem: to find out the best coil for what I can find in the market. Here I just found the 3/16 copper tube for the coil, so, what I'm seeing is that it's getting hard to reach a coil with short length, if I use the orientation you gave regarding number of turns and ID. Can I ask you help to find what is the best setting for my project?
I own a 308 and my cartridges are just getting hot for my fingers but amost 10 seconds and no glow showing up.
So, here is what I am trying to do: 24 VDC 15A power supply, ZVS 1000W (the same you own), coil 3/16 copper tube with 0.82" ID (internal diameter meaning center to center of conductor diameter), axial pitch of 6 mm, 10 turns (here is my problem, because is giving me 2.32" of coil length and as per my maths, around 0.75 uH). If I'm not wrong, with this inductance and with the 6 times 0.33 uF (1.98 uF total) it will be working at 130 KHz. But I see no good performance at all. And it is heating the coil with 2 or 3 tests run. My water cooler is not on by now, but I'll install soon.
Can you help me with it?
Thanks!

 

[mcfred]

Smaller diameter tubing and a smaller work coil ID/shorter coil height will concentrate the flux for annealing .308 sized case necks. Alternatively, you can increase the DC voltage to put more energy into it.

 

[davere]

@mcfred is on the money. Coil geometry is apparently super important to making this whole thing work correctly. The OP is using a similar power supply (or was then, anyway). Most of the folks on the accurateshooter.com thread are using 48v supplies with basically double or more the power, too.

 

[TSerrao]

Smaller diameter tubing and a smaller work coil ID/shorter coil height will concentrate the flux for annealing .308 sized case necks. Alternatively, you can increase the DC voltage to put more energy into it.

I understand, but the problem I mentioned is that by reducing the coil size, you decrease its uH, then, you increase very significant frequency and will never match with what the circuit was made to work with. See now? If I'm not making any mistake, the original coil comes (too big, for sure) to work around 95KHz. That was dimensioned to work according to the choice of the capacitors (1.98 uF, in this case). If we change too much the uH, without doing anything with the C, the LC circuit will jump to a higher frequency and starts to loose performance to heating, instaed of magnetic field.
So, again, the problem is to setup a coil with aproximately the same uH of the original one, in order to keep LC working almost in the same frequency.

 

[TSerrao]

I was planning to upgrade my DC input to 48V, but till there, I'm gonna try to find out the best coil, then yes, check if still is necessary to improve DC input. Another thing that I didn't see any coment is the position of the brass inside the coil. How do I need to set it in order to obtain the best flux and get the bast annealing? Do I need to place the neck right to the middle (center) of the coil, in terms of length? Example: if I have a coil with 10 turns, do I need to place the brass with its shoulder around turn 5? Thanks folks

 

[davere]

Seems like the folks that have thrown a 'scope on their LC circuits find that they're running between 100-120KHz? I recall reading that the AMP operates in that same frequency range - and somewhere on accurateshooter's thread, they discuss frequency vs. material, and somehow that works out better for brass than lower frequencies? It's been a while...

I position my brass so the shoulder of the case is approximately in the middle, but the mouth is still a couple coils below the top of the coil? If you don't have a current limiting power supply, you'll have to be careful between coil dimensions and how much of the work piece is in the coil - you could end up drawing more power than your supply can produce and trip some fuses.

 

[mcfred]

Experiment. You'll figure it out.

There's nothing magical about 120KHz. There is no "Best" coil. I've made some <Ø.400" ID coils for .22 Hornet/5.7x28 annealing. Works fine over 300KHz, you just have to tune the cap bank. IME the cap bank µF isn't that critical, if you're in the neighborhood it will still work. You can optimise from there. Besides, if you're using cheap chinese components you don't really know what you're getting, so don't agonize about it. A chinese compomnent spec sheet doesn't mean much, especially when it runs hot, high current, and high frequency. The ZVS operating envelope is highly dynamic. There is no "Steady State" operation so don't design around one. Adopt the practical approach: if it works, then it works.

Tiny:

 

[TSerrao]

Experiment. You'll figure it out.

There's nothing magical about 120KHz. There is no "Best" coil. I've made some <Ø.400" ID coils for .22 Hornet/5.7x28 annealing. Works fine over 300KHz, you just have to tune the cap bank. IME the cap bank µF isn't that critical, if you're in the neighborhood it will still work. You can optimise from there. Besides, if you're using cheap chinese components you don't really know what you're getting, so don't agonize about it. A chinese compomnent spec sheet doesn't mean much, especially when it runs hot, high current, and high frequency. The ZVS operating envelope is highly dynamic. There is no "Steady State" operation so don't design around one. Adopt the practical approach: if it works, then it works.

Tiny:

May I consider to add more caps to match the 120KHz, instead burn my brain trying to develop the best coil? What I mean is that even I do all the best to achieve around 1.1 uH, if I do smaller ID coils, to perform better annealing to my 308, I never reach anything close to 0.7 uH, and in LC without adding C, the frequency will be too high. Can anyone advise me something? Thanks!

 

[TSerrao]

May I consider to add more caps to match the 120KHz, instead burn my brain trying to develop the best coil? What I mean is that even I do all the best to achieve around 1.1 uH, if I do smaller ID coils, to perform better annealing to my 308, I never reach anything close to 0.7 uH, and in LC without adding C, the frequency will be too high. Can anyone advise me something? Thanks!

I tried to measure the caps (each) without taking them off the board and I know about their association (would be adding uF each) and I'm not sure, but almost sure that I can not do (measure) directly at the circuit. Do you know about it? Do I need to take them off to test if they are fine? My coil is getting too hot, even with 2 tests and no glow showing at the neck, with 10 sec. If you have some tricks to share, would be very welcome. Thanks

 

[296]

That’s an awesome build! I was too lazy and hit the ‘screw it button’ and ordered an AMP. I’m happy with it but this would have been a fun project! Well done.

 

[davere]

I tried to measure the caps (each) without taking them off the board and I know about their association (would be adding uF each) and I'm not sure, but almost sure that I can not do (measure) directly at the circuit. Do you know about it? Do I need to take them off to test if they are fine? My coil is getting too hot, even with 2 tests and no glow showing at the neck, with 10 sec. If you have some tricks to share, would be very welcome. Thanks

much respect for digging in like this. I think you’re moving past the general knowledge that any of us has (if there’s an EE around, they haven’t piped up, yet).

It seems like the one thing you haven’t tried is the recipe for col design that’s worked for LITERALLY everyone else Why not start there and see if it works, first?

if you’re going to start modding your induction board, you should be able to figure that circuit out and the capacitor values? The thread on accurateshooter that’s linked above has 102 pages of info - including some extensive discussion on the circuit and the components on the different boards. There’s a couple guys there who might be able to point you in the right direction.

there’s also a ton of info there on how they arrived at the cool design we’re all using, so...

 

[TSerrao]

much respect for digging in like this. I think you’re moving past the general knowledge that any of us has (if there’s an EE around, they haven’t piped up, yet).

It seems like the one thing you haven’t tried is the recipe for col design that’s worked for LITERALLY everyone else Why not start there and see if it works, first?

if you’re going to start modding your induction board, you should be able to figure that circuit out and the capacitor values? The thread on accurateshooter that’s linked above has 102 pages of info - including some extensive discussion on the circuit and the components on the different boards. There’s a couple guys there who might be able to point you in the right direction.

there’s also a ton of info there on how they arrived at the cool design we’re all using, so...

Thanks for your share!
I already did 8 different coils, trying to see some progress in annealing brass, like Tim did or some other that got success on their project. What I'm finally doing is to upgrade my power supply to 48VDC, because I was still testing at 24V 20A as some other projects I saw at the internet (not here but I already made some more researches about it) and even using the same things (except coil tube diameter, because mine is 3/16").
I respect your advice but I mentioned before that I was reading all the other posts, since the begining of this specific forum (regarding induction annealing).

As I'm not an EE and I'm not getting the same results, I started to ask many details to see what am I doing wrong or if my board could arrive with some problem.

If someone has some more advices, it would be very wellcome, because I have no more thing to test but wait to receive my 48V power supply and test all the coils I have done.

Thanks in advance!

 

[jkgts1]

I know this thread is a bit older, but I had some questions about setup and finding the correct temp. First I’d like to thank all the people who started this post and who gave their info, it’s allowed me to build one of these. So if I’m trying to find the correct time setting for annealing a piece of brass, is it okay to use the same piece of brass over and over? Of course I’m not going to use a piece that completely melted, but start low and work your way up. Letting the brass completely cool after each heating. I don’t remember seeing anything in the thread about this. I know different brass manufacturers are gonna have different times.

 

[Ryridesmotox]

I use the same piece after it has cooled. Originally I was using 700 tempilaq only and was just kind of guessing at Temps. But now that I have 1k and 1150 I'm testing more

So I got some 1k and 1150 tempilaq in. I put the 1k on he top there (one on the right) just to see how long it took to start to melt it. For my setup 9 seconds. I'm thinking I need to re-wind a coil perhaps with a different number of coils maybe. The one on the left has 700 tempilaq on the body
As you can see it gets over 700 to about the middle of the body.

The following is for discussion purposes only. Do not replicate this unless you know what you're doing or are dumb (I likely fall into the latter).

This is some older MEN 7.62 NATO cases I had from a while ago. I DO NOT SHOOT THESE regularly, this is just for experimental purposes. Based on what I'm seeing, yes the body heats up, but im not getting as much heat as I thought propagating as far down the body. A bunch of the other military brass I had lying around a while back has color change a bit further down the case. Starting dar left, 1150 only,, 1000/750, 1000, without tempilaq so you can see the color change (color change is not an indicator). I'm wondering how hot brass is annealed to while being drawn and formed into cases. Even though color change isn't an indicator of temperature, it seems like, being a NATO case, it MIGHT have some more consistency of brass composition with other cases due to NATO requirements (I could be totally wrong though). Unfortunately I don't have another NATO case lying about right now that hasn't been polished clean over the course of use and cleaning.

As you can see I'm getting no reall change in the 1150 tempilaq. I am seeing just a bit in the 1000 at the mouth. The 700 is changing to about 10mm below the shoulder.

Discuss.... What do you all think? I'm debating on throwing some powder and a bullet in these and see if the case splits or falls in some way. But the desire to not blow my face off is kinda telling me not to.

ETA: Not sure why the case on the right looks bent. Its phone camera trickery I think. I can assure you it is straight.