as ones on market are way overpriced.just found this thread after wondering the same thing as everyone else, surely i could build my own annealing machine
bought all the components, no i wait for the post man to deliver. I hope though to reuse the copper pipe that comes with my unit and rewind the coil, as i do want to make it water cooled, so will see how that goes in the future. worst case if i screw it could buy the 8awg wire and wind as per op
I'm using a 48V 20A and still getting over current! What am I doing wrong?
Testing with no brass is between 18 / 19A. If I just run twice, the coil starts to heat then the current starts to increase too. As heating increases, current increase too.
www.dropbox.com
Thanks for the video link, has given me a few ideas how to do mine, once parts turn upDropbox - File Deleted - Simplify your life
Sorry, but I don't like to keep posting my things on youtube! But there is a Dropbox link so you can see it.
* My display doen't flick like it is at the video. That is my camera in different frequency. It works smooth and I used Arduino for the whole project and SSR direct current 60A to activate the ZVS.
I saw the same. Smaller coils, increases current. So in my project, which has high current with no load, always give me over current as soon as I put a single mm of brass at the coil center.
I made the same question to myself when I was reading about double coils. As far as you don't change the TURN DIRECTION, you can go up and down while turning. Like radio coils, with too much turns, it's impossible to turn just to one way (up or down), but turns always to the same turn direction (axial meaning).
Today I did another double coil, now, 5 + 5, ID 30, and guess what: I did it work at 9A with no load and 12A with a 308 brass. Now, I will try to setup a better one, to make it work at 16A, as I have a 20A supply, and decrease the time for the 308 anealling.
I had an idea that with the double coils, maybe counteracting magnetic fields could be driving the current way up. But it sounds like current flow is in the same direction which I wouldn't think would do that.
Unfortunately I had to stop the tests. My supply had some burnt smell, even no problem while runing. I called my supplier, who did that special power supply for me (mine has 48V 20A and 12V 5A at the same power supply, in order to run the zvs and my other parts of control). I stopped the tests at 7.5 seconds, almost anealled 308 brass (almost glow red) but still I see that might need some more ms or seconds to setup and reach the proper anealling (I don't have access to temperature painting here like many others do, so I am running it by now just checking the small red glow target).
I have a window close to the coil exit. I did it thinking about that problem of possible magnetic field concentration at this metal face. A window of 1" far from the coil part that goes thru the plate should be fine (actually I made it bigger thinking to pass the whole pcb thru the windows but I changed my mind and now I just have a bigger window that I suppose to be good enough, and also, my coil is 1" far from the plate face.
Unfortunately I had to stop the tests. My supply had some burnt smell, even no problem while runing. I called my supplier, who did that special power supply for me (mine has 48V 20A and 12V 5A at the same power supply, in order to run the zvs and my other parts of control). I stopped the tests at 7.5 seconds, almost anealled 308 brass (almost glow red) but still I see that might need some more ms or seconds to setup and reach the proper anealling (I don't have access to temperature painting here like many others do, so I am running it by now just checking the small red glow target).
With the new setup I'll try after I receive the new power supply, I'll decrease 1 or 2 turns (maybe inner turn or outer turn) testing the current aiming to 16A with 308 brass at half coil height position. That might be perfect setup. Hope to give some good news soon!
Unfortunately I had to stop the tests. My supply had some burnt smell, even no problem while runing. I called my supplier, who did that special power supply for me (mine has 48V 20A and 12V 5A at the same power supply, in order to run the zvs and my other parts of control). I stopped the tests at 7.5 seconds, almost anealled 308 brass (almost glow red) but still I see that might need some more ms or seconds to setup and reach the proper anealling (I don't have access to temperature painting here like many others do, so I am running it by now just checking the small red glow target).
With the new setup I'll try after I receive the new power supply, I'll decrease 1 or 2 turns (maybe inner turn or outer turn) testing the current aiming to 16A with 308 brass at half coil height position. That might be perfect setup. Hope to give some good news soon!
