Hornady, Alpha, Peterson, or Starline brass for hunting 6 Creed?

[Bache Kermooni]

I have decided to only use LRP brass. I have a 50-count box of Peterson brass as I yet unused. Un-impressed. The necks (lips) all have to be chamfered (inside and out). Never had this issue with Lapua or Hornady in .223, 6.5 G or 308. I have not weighted the Peterson cases yet. Nonetheless, if all I have to do is chamfer to have great consistency, I will. I have to make a decision the final brass choice.

Your actual experience with the above is greatly appreciated.

 

[Supersubes]

Mine have always been better than Lapua. Even if the Lapua did have a good chamfer, they’re all dented and need to be trued up anyway. I fl size and chamfer all virgin brass. To not do that is to have shitty sd’s from virgin brass in my experience. At it’s price point, Peterson is unmatched imo.

 

[Bache Kermooni]

bump

 

[Rocketmandb]

Question: Why are you set on LRP?

I used Hornady and Peterson in my 6 CM before Lapua came out with their 6 CM brass. Hornady was okay in this case. Peterson was much better, but I had a few issues. My first group with Lapua beat the crap out of the other two - but then it's SRP. Hence my question.

 

[Bache Kermooni]

Question: Why are you set on LRP?

I used Hornady and Peterson in my 6 CM before Lapua came out with their 6 CM brass. Hornady was okay in this case. Peterson was much better, but I had a few issues. My first group with Lapua beat the crap out of the other two - but then it's SRP. Hence my question.

Based on what I have read and even manufacturers have recommended, the SRP in cold temperatures causes slower velocities - in 6 Creed. Since this is for hunting, temps in single digits even blow zero are possible. Can you quantify "beat the crap" for example in terms of MOA group sizes?

 

[Rocketmandb]

Based on what I have read and even manufacturers have recommended, the SRP in cold temperatures causes slower velocities - in 6 Creed. Since this is for hunting, temps in single digits even blow zero are possible. Can you quantify "beat the crap" for example in terms of MOA group sizes?

Makes sense on the LRP vs SRP.

On the Lapua vs others - this was with a factory Bergara HMR Pro.

With Hornady, I was struggling to get 1/2 MOA groups at 100 yards and 3/4 at 300. The Peterson was better, but still not what I was hoping for - and I had a few other issues with it. When I got my first bunch of Lapua and I was turning it into once-fired, my second shot at 100 went in the same hole. I was like, "that was lucky." Then I fired the next and it was touching, and so on. The difference between it and the others was stark. At 300 with Lapua I would routinely get 1.3-1.5" groups, which for that rifle I was happy with.

I was very happy when Lapua came out with their 6 CM brass.

 

[Bache Kermooni]

Makes sense on the LRP vs SRP.

On the Lapua vs others - this was with a factory Bergara HMR Pro.

With Hornady, I was struggling to get 1/2 MOA groups at 100 yards and 3/4 at 300. The Peterson was better, but still not what I was hoping for - and I had a few other issues with it. When I got my first bunch of Lapua and I was turning it into once-fired, my second shot at 100 went in the same hole. I was like, "that was lucky." Then I fired the next and it was touching, and so on. The difference between it and the others was stark. At 300 with Lapua I would routinely get 1.3-1.5" groups, which for that rifle I was happy with.

I was very happy when Lapua came out with their 6 CM brass.

Thank you. Great info.

 

[Ledzep]

I have gone from Lapua to Hornady brass for most everything, personally. I haven't seen any significant accuracy or ES/SD change, which is what prompted the move in the first place. I have always ran new brass through my FL die and Giraud to trim to min spec. Chamfer/deburr happens automatically in the Giraud.

Step 1 of that transition to Hornady is to stay within published load data. Exceed 65ksi and the primer pockets will open up. Otherwise they last 10+ firings and I'm not scared to lose a few in the field, on the range, etc..

 

[chadrp]

I have gone from Lapua to Hornady brass for most everything, personally. I haven't seen any significant accuracy or ES/SD change, which is what prompted the move in the first place. I have always ran new brass through my FL die and Giraud to trim to min spec. Chamfer/deburr happens automatically in the Giraud.

Step 1 of that transition to Hornady is to stay within published load data. Exceed 65ksi and the primer pockets will open up. Otherwise they last 10+ firings and I'm not scared to lose a few in the field, on the range, etc..

That's interesting to hear of someone going from lapua to Hornady brass but can understand why. I'm just learning to reload on Hornady brass and my primer pockets are anywhere from .107 to .127. I''m curious to know if you are uniforming the pockets or just loading them as is?

 

[DaveM]

I’ve never seen new brass that couldn’t use a chamfer. Shipping and handling typically bangs up the necks anyway. Some can be loaded initially without a chamfer and some can’t.

I’ve used Hornady, Alpha, and Petersen in calibers other than 6 Creed. I have not used Starline, but they are now owned by Nosler, which I’ve also used. I would choose Petersen first every day. It’s great brass. I wouldn’t hesitate to use Hornady if Petersen wasn’t available. I’d happily use Nosler’s match prepped brass again. I will never put another piece of Alpha brass in my rifles again. Ever.

Lapua is Lapua chamfer or not.

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

Your hunting with it... so why would you care? Can't imagine the demands are such that any of them make a difference.

 

[Ledzep]

Chamfer and go for me. If the mouths are really dinged I'll run an expander ball through.

 

[chadrp]

Chamfer and go for me. If the mouths are really dinged I'll run an expander ball through.

Ok thanks! Should have asked also, are you annealing the Hornady brass and if so how often?

 

[Ledzep]

Every 3 or 4 firings I'll either torch them or borrow a friend's AMP. The AMP seems to soften them more than what I do with a torch. Haven't got around to testing MV spreads vs. annealing yet, but it does make the brass last longer.

 

[chadrp]

Every 3 or 4 firings I'll either torch them or borrow a friend's AMP. The AMP seems to soften them more than what I do with a torch. Haven't got around to testing MV spreads vs. annealing yet, but it does make the brass last longer.

Perfect, thanks for the info!

 

[TxWelder35]

I have decided to only use LRP brass. I have a 50-count box of Peterson brass as I yet unused. Un-impressed. The necks (lips) all have to be chamfered (inside and out). Never had this issue with Lapua or Hornady in .223, 6.5 G or 308. I have not weighted the Peterson cases yet. Nonetheless, if all I have to do is chamfer to have great consistency, I will. I have to make a decision the final brass choice.

Your actual experience with the above is greatly appreciated.

Peterson brass does not need to be chamfered. They have an Article on their website about if somewhere. Let me see if I can dig it up

edit-found it

Peterson Has New Coating

Chamfering the mouths of casings, prior to loading them with a bullet, has been a topic of debate in the reloading community since reloading became popular with private consumers.

www.petersoncartridge.com

 

[Bache Kermooni]

Very interesting write up from Peterson. My issue is with the "outside" of the case mouth.