Thank you. We have started getting cucumbers now, just got three big ones tonight. Tomatoes have started to turn color a little bit. Looking forward to the coming salads.
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- Thread starter OverWatch
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Thank you. We have started getting cucumbers now, just got three big ones tonight. Tomatoes have started to turn color a little bit. Looking forward to the coming salads.
thanks! my wife just saw this and is like.. oh you can make that for me... like its a done deal...haha well I know what im doing this weekend 
it is cool though
it is cool though
I don't know shit about gardening but I feel I have a good sense for design. We made this last week for my shooting buddy's wife.
thanks!
the wife is already running around with the tape measure..haha
gives me an excuse to hit the home depot
the wife is already running around with the tape measure..haha
gives me an excuse to hit the home depot
thanks!
the wife is already running around with the tape measure..haha
gives me an excuse to hit the home depot
You're in double trouble. Wife wants you to go to Home Depot........I can see the dollar signs flowing into HD's purse. Maybe i should buy some stock in HD this afternoon.....
I knew a guy that was pretty far out there, but could grow more stuff on steep ground than I thought was possible. He would add mulch and compost to his beds. Hell of a grower, but a nasty hippie sob; I called him the Fruit-Nut. He's an educated guy and knows his stuff and grows his crops similar to the methods above. He once told me I was rapping the earth by plowing it. He said when I plowed, it broke down the nutrients, releasing them much faster and depleting the soil. I agreed and told he that's what triple 13 was for... I can't argue with his method because it works and works well....but it doesn't work well for me. I have a tractor, plows, harrows, cultivators, sprayers, a planter, ... and can get more done to more ground in 8 hrs than he can in two weeks. If I were to plant everything using his methods, I'd have to quit my job and be a full time fruit-nut... It works for him, but he also supplements his income growing some non-traditional crops...
If you're working a small spot, give it a try. A lot of old-timers mulch their garden with oak leaves they collected in the fall. Just keep in mind you'll have to do something with those leaves come next spring because dry leaves take a long time to decompose.
One stupid hippie trick I've seen that does Not work is the chickens. Theory is: have a cage that holds chickens and it's moved down the rows (similar to a creep feeder). Chickens weed the garden and fertilize it as they go. Sounds great, right? The results I've seen are the chickens do a dam poor job of weeding, but do manage to damage some crops and I wondered how much salmonella they were depositing along the way. They also eat bugs, right???... but the bugs they're eating are the larger ones and most of them are the predatory types that eat the little bugs that damage crops. Can you have intimate relations with a chicken? I suppose so. Does that make a chicken a hoe? No it does not.
If you're working a small spot, give it a try. A lot of old-timers mulch their garden with oak leaves they collected in the fall. Just keep in mind you'll have to do something with those leaves come next spring because dry leaves take a long time to decompose.
One stupid hippie trick I've seen that does Not work is the chickens. Theory is: have a cage that holds chickens and it's moved down the rows (similar to a creep feeder). Chickens weed the garden and fertilize it as they go. Sounds great, right? The results I've seen are the chickens do a dam poor job of weeding, but do manage to damage some crops and I wondered how much salmonella they were depositing along the way. They also eat bugs, right???... but the bugs they're eating are the larger ones and most of them are the predatory types that eat the little bugs that damage crops. Can you have intimate relations with a chicken? I suppose so. Does that make a chicken a hoe? No it does not.
OverWatch, my only thoughts are, that the 'back to eden' system looks very interesting. Still researching more into the Mittleider one, but the 'mulch' thing is theoretically very impressive. I say "theoretic", because I have NO experience with it, and only know of it now through this venue.
Impressive though, to say the least. Growing food, the natural way. It's only been happening for Eons and Eons, so there must be something right about it. Now if only I can adapt this process to a gibble like me, (who can't bend) then I'll be golden. Table-top gardening!! woo hoo.
Impressive though, to say the least. Growing food, the natural way. It's only been happening for Eons and Eons, so there must be something right about it. Now if only I can adapt this process to a gibble like me, (who can't bend) then I'll be golden. Table-top gardening!! woo hoo.
Sean, raised beds can be built in a great variety of ways, so there is really no reason not to be able to build different height benches on which to have garden beds. The only thing there would be to have a semi-waterproof bottom. I say semi, because you want some water drainage to be sure that you don't drown the plants, but you also would want to be sure that the air under the bench can't dry the soil out too fast either. This could be achieved by using a plastic liner with small holes in it on top of the wood flooring of the bed. You would want to build the beds, line them, fill them, then puncture the plastic so that you could occasionally clean the holes out from below to be sure that they are draining. You also could have your beds an extra couple inches deep and put a two inch layer of clean crushed stone or river stone in to allow water to collect below the soil. These methods will allow the soil to drain if it is super-saturated, but keep the air below from drying the soil, and thence the roots.
I really like growing food, but found that I was about the only one in the house that really ate much of it. Everyone loved the flowers, so other than tomatoes, walla walla sweet onions, potatoes, and my berries (10 kinds), I mostly grow all sorts of flowers that everyone likes.
Daffodils, lillys of all sorts, cala lilly, gladiolus, tulip, dahlia, sunflower, poppy, nastursium (sp), and all sorts of other stuff.
So far, I have only learned one noteworthy trick: With most dahlias, a stake is needed to support the weak stalk once the heavy blooms appear. Most people put the stake in next to the bulb when they do the planting. Someone suggested that rather than having one bulb/plant per stake, to try planting 3-4 bulbs around a central stake. I did that this year, and now, I have these huge almost tree like bushes that should be pretty spectacular when they all start to bloom.
The other thing I did was to plant some bulbs every 10-14 days for about two months. That way, I should have blooms over a longer period of time.
Between the 150-200 gladiolus bulbs, and the 44 dahlia "trees" (each "tree" has 1-4 plants), I should have color from July through around september.
Daffodils, lillys of all sorts, cala lilly, gladiolus, tulip, dahlia, sunflower, poppy, nastursium (sp), and all sorts of other stuff.
So far, I have only learned one noteworthy trick: With most dahlias, a stake is needed to support the weak stalk once the heavy blooms appear. Most people put the stake in next to the bulb when they do the planting. Someone suggested that rather than having one bulb/plant per stake, to try planting 3-4 bulbs around a central stake. I did that this year, and now, I have these huge almost tree like bushes that should be pretty spectacular when they all start to bloom.
The other thing I did was to plant some bulbs every 10-14 days for about two months. That way, I should have blooms over a longer period of time.
Between the 150-200 gladiolus bulbs, and the 44 dahlia "trees" (each "tree" has 1-4 plants), I should have color from July through around september.
I usually save up the taters that start going bad, and just poke them into the ground wherever I have an extra corner, or nothing growing. It is merely an alternative to throwing them out, and the reward may only be 3 little taters, but that beats just one thrown out... I figured that putting lots of work into them defeats the whole idea of freebie taters from things I would have thrown out anyhow. It is surprising how many volunteers pop up the next year. I really love the fresh, young ones about 1-2 inches around..Over time, I get so many volunteers, it is almost like having blackberries around that always produce, even if I do nothing to promote them.
Years ago I was told that you know when it is time to dig up the taters when the tops start dying off.
Years ago I was told that you know when it is time to dig up the taters when the tops start dying off.
Nice Idea. And, yes, when the tops die, then the potatoes are ready. In NH, we used to allow them to sit in the ground for a week after the tops completely died---I think it helps to "season" the potatoes for root cellar storage. Then we would harvest them, allow the dirt to dry, brush them gently to get the loose dirt off but not hurt the skin, and bag them up for storage in the root cellar. We ate nice, home-grown potatoes into March and sometimes April...
When the kids were home, and I was experimenting with everything, we used several methods of geting the most outof a garden.
I planted tight (intensive) and used a drip system made of PVC pipes.
1. prepare the soil as much as you need, add all amendments.
2. make wide beds or leave flat and make walking pathways at least 4 feet apart.
3. lay out the drip system.
4. cover with a large sheet of black plastic. (We live in Oregon at 5,000 ft. This extends the season, earlier and later). Also avoids weeding.
5. cut holes for the plants, surround with heaps of straw to keep the plastic from searing the plant.
6. lay boards or rocks to hold edges of plastic.
You will water about 1/3 as much since the moisture doesn't evaporate, and you only water at each plant.
After plants are full and lush, fertilize by spraying.
I used the tire method for potatoes, and added an entire area for just corn. (60x60)
I view home gardening like home reloading. It is a good idea to be able to do it, it may be a necessary skill,
and you may be instrumental in feeding your family and immediate neighbors in a crisis.
for example, one year we had enough corn in a small home garden to not only feed our family, and put up some, We sold corn to our local market, and even gave a friend enough for her winter storage when her cows ate her crop. We also sold to the market, hard squash of several kinds.
I will look for my pictures of the garden. I don't grow anything I can get locally. My son lives in Iowa, so he never grows corn.
I planted tight (intensive) and used a drip system made of PVC pipes.
1. prepare the soil as much as you need, add all amendments.
2. make wide beds or leave flat and make walking pathways at least 4 feet apart.
3. lay out the drip system.
4. cover with a large sheet of black plastic. (We live in Oregon at 5,000 ft. This extends the season, earlier and later). Also avoids weeding.
5. cut holes for the plants, surround with heaps of straw to keep the plastic from searing the plant.
6. lay boards or rocks to hold edges of plastic.
You will water about 1/3 as much since the moisture doesn't evaporate, and you only water at each plant.
After plants are full and lush, fertilize by spraying.
I used the tire method for potatoes, and added an entire area for just corn. (60x60)
I view home gardening like home reloading. It is a good idea to be able to do it, it may be a necessary skill,
and you may be instrumental in feeding your family and immediate neighbors in a crisis.
for example, one year we had enough corn in a small home garden to not only feed our family, and put up some, We sold corn to our local market, and even gave a friend enough for her winter storage when her cows ate her crop. We also sold to the market, hard squash of several kinds.
I will look for my pictures of the garden. I don't grow anything I can get locally. My son lives in Iowa, so he never grows corn.
I don't have pics of it, but in our garden, (pics in previous post), I placed a 25' drip hose. This is on a timer, which can be programmed for seven days, and water for a pre-determined time every (you decide) how often..... This keeps the plant growth dry while providing ample water for the root systems to use.
Saw on TV BlackBerry plants ( as seen on tv) so sent away, received three sticks with some roots ONLY one came up now about three feet long don't think any berrys this year.
Can't say. I know I got it at Ace Hardware, and it runs on "AA"? batteries. Works very well, though, on its third year. Wasn't very expensive.
"You see, in this world there's two kinds of people, my friend: Those with loaded guns and those who dig. You dig. "
Blondie to Tuco
heh-heh
Blondie to Tuco
heh-heh
It will get long and eventually bend over to touch the ground. At that point, it will form roots where it touches the ground to start a new plant. They spread naturally that way. You can help it along if you wanted. Slightly scape the stem where it touches the ground, dab a little water on it and sprinkle w/ root-tone (if you live in CA, don't let the root-tone touch you're skin because it's bad for you; if you live in another State, you'll be OK). Freshen the soil up a little w/ a soil amendment and use a sod staple or piece of bent wire to hold the stem to the soil and add a small amount of light soil (like peatmoss) on top. Next spring, cut the main stem from the original plant loose from the new one. Next year you'll have two and you can double them every year.
LMFAO at your comment about CA!!!! That is a classic.
And to NFHJR62, it will take a several years before you really start to get a good crop of black-berries, but it will be worth the wait. Just continue to do as MntCreek says, and you'll have quite a hedge-row before you know it. I think the canes are in their second year before they produce berries. First year growth 'sets' the cane, and then second year it produces. When you do have enough, post a pic of the blackberry pie you make.....
Damn Coons!!! My early corn went to roasten ear last week and the coons have been wearing it out. I've had to pick some ears a little earlier than I wanted to; some are not filled all the way to the ends yet. I've caught two in a live trap, but I guess the rest have gotten wise to it by seeing their buddy caged while they ate...
Coon problem? See other threads in this forum for remedies. My favorite: .22 CB longs, flashlight, shovel. You can buy one of those driveway wireless sensors, to get you up at 3 AM, when they show up at the cornfield. Fuck Havahart, use a Conibear, as an alternate. Also needs a shovel. Don't ask, don't tell.
" driveway wireless sensors "
Hum...I think one of those can fix my problem. I've got a frame / tubes set up for launching firework mortar shells. I pull the fuse and replace w/ model rocket igniters (fire by wire). If I can figure out how to make it repeat electronically, that should give me all nights worth of scaring everything off.
Hum...I think one of those can fix my problem. I've got a frame / tubes set up for launching firework mortar shells. I pull the fuse and replace w/ model rocket igniters (fire by wire). If I can figure out how to make it repeat electronically, that should give me all nights worth of scaring everything off.
Probably not. Are your vines setting any fruit?
Cheers,
Tim
The Right to Keep and Bear Arms Shall NOT be Infringed
Cheers,
Tim
The Right to Keep and Bear Arms Shall NOT be Infringed
The first flowers will be male / no fruit. You'll need to be careful w/ insecticides while they're pollinating.
I've got to replant squash. We've had a crap-ton of heavy rain that beat the plants into the ground and broke them. Out of 8 plants, about half are dead / badly damaged. Squash puts on fast, so no big deal (first frost around here is typ Nov).
Bush hogged the early corn last night. First time I've been able to get a tractor in a field in a long time.
All the rain we've had, I've used a lot of 34-0-0 this year. About double normal usage. Same for 5-10-15 on the beans and peas. It's been so wet I can't cultivate, so a lot of fertilizer is lost to run off. All this rain has given me the best millet I've had in years. It's over waist high and just starting to put on seed heads. I don't eat the millet, but I do eat the doves that eat the millet.
I've got a lot of corn and beans to put up this weekend. I drop the corn in boiling water for a few min's, set aside to cool, then cut off and package in zip-locks for the freezer. Saves a lot of space vs freezing on the cob and keeps longer. I'll do the same for the beans, but they'll get canned. I'm the canning-bitch at my house. The wife grew up a little more city and is a non-canner... If it makes anyone feel better about the situation, when I get done I'll tell her to clean the mess up.
I've got to replant squash. We've had a crap-ton of heavy rain that beat the plants into the ground and broke them. Out of 8 plants, about half are dead / badly damaged. Squash puts on fast, so no big deal (first frost around here is typ Nov).
Bush hogged the early corn last night. First time I've been able to get a tractor in a field in a long time.
All the rain we've had, I've used a lot of 34-0-0 this year. About double normal usage. Same for 5-10-15 on the beans and peas. It's been so wet I can't cultivate, so a lot of fertilizer is lost to run off. All this rain has given me the best millet I've had in years. It's over waist high and just starting to put on seed heads. I don't eat the millet, but I do eat the doves that eat the millet.
I've got a lot of corn and beans to put up this weekend. I drop the corn in boiling water for a few min's, set aside to cool, then cut off and package in zip-locks for the freezer. Saves a lot of space vs freezing on the cob and keeps longer. I'll do the same for the beans, but they'll get canned. I'm the canning-bitch at my house. The wife grew up a little more city and is a non-canner... If it makes anyone feel better about the situation, when I get done I'll tell her to clean the mess up.
We had the wood on hand. Used one saw a screw gun. Two guys working together got that knocked out in like 1.5hrs. We had a hand drawn sketch as an outline with only the bottom frame as a hard dimension and the understanding she wanted 12" wide beds.
A guy who's good with tools and woodworking should beat us. I think we wound up needing 3 sheets of plywood for bases of the boxes. If you can cut boards into a box and then make cross braces then measure and cut a sheet of plywood for a bottom your done.
Oh! We uses a sawzall to notch 3 boards total. Under the soil is a board that you can't see cuz its notched to create the "L" shape and still provide structure to the frame.
Real easy man project.
So I had a question about this setup. Why use plywood as a base for each level? Why not just leave it open and keep stacking each level on top of each other so that the water and roots could grow and reach as deep as they needed to get?
I plant raised beds every year and plant tomatoes and peppers, I grew them on my roof when I was at school too, I've never had enough room for melons. I found that in good soil, tomatoes and peppers will return the following season just because I let a few fall to the ground.
Well, last week I visited some friends who made me pick the garden for them----really not too bad for a weekend stay for me and the dog-got to get out of the truck for 4 days.
I picked over 40 cucumbers for them, and they told me to take them all home. I only took about 30, and my Mom(who was visiting), my wife, and myself ground up about 23 of them and made five quarts of my Mom's Best cucumber relish.
Cheers,
Tim
The Right to Keep and Bear Arms Shall NOT be Infringed
I picked over 40 cucumbers for them, and they told me to take them all home. I only took about 30, and my Mom(who was visiting), my wife, and myself ground up about 23 of them and made five quarts of my Mom's Best cucumber relish.
Cheers,
Tim
The Right to Keep and Bear Arms Shall NOT be Infringed
my late start has gotten me about 3 dozen or so larger cucumbers, tomato plants didn't really even grow, carrots are still in but only maybe an inch long so far, and corn is just starting to look like ears on the stalks. also fighting to keep 1 baseball sized watermelon from dying or being eaten. 8 plants produced 1 watermelon.
Does anyone around here do any growing indoors, during the winter? (keeping the thread on track here) With what they have for grow lights and whatnot, this has been an idea. My Lady uses so many herbs in her cooking that the idea of a 'continuous supply' of fresh cilantro, rosemary, parsley, thyme, sage, and whatnot would be good.
And since the winters up here are so long, this thread just adds to the "grow-yer-own, year 'round" idea. (Again though, lets keep this thread on track)
The one thing that I'm hesitant about though, is a few years ago we had a fair number of plants in the house. Crown-of-Thorns, to be specific. But then we got gnats. Little bastards are near impossible to get rid of, short of a flamethrower. Either that, or we hadn't learned 'the trick' yet of something.
Anyone know of how to deal with that issue, for any indoor planting? Again, with the short season that we have here, (aka Long Winter) as well as my limited mobility,,, this is the direction that seems more viable.
And since the winters up here are so long, this thread just adds to the "grow-yer-own, year 'round" idea. (Again though, lets keep this thread on track)
The one thing that I'm hesitant about though, is a few years ago we had a fair number of plants in the house. Crown-of-Thorns, to be specific. But then we got gnats. Little bastards are near impossible to get rid of, short of a flamethrower. Either that, or we hadn't learned 'the trick' yet of something.
Anyone know of how to deal with that issue, for any indoor planting? Again, with the short season that we have here, (aka Long Winter) as well as my limited mobility,,, this is the direction that seems more viable.
Sean,
Growing up in NH, we had a shortish growing season, so we had a small greenhouse in which we grew tomatoes until December. A small lean-to style greenhouse attached to the house with a Southern facing (or possibly South-Western--more South than West) exposure will allow you to grow much earlier and later, and extend the variety of things you can grow. You want to use Greenhouse plastic or plate glass, or a combination of both. Two layers is best, separated by about 3" of dead air-space. You need a thermostatically controlled vent fan to keep it from getting too hot. Also, a way to allow cross ventilation on hot days. If you have a door to the house in the right place, say the kitchen door is on the correct wall for this addition, then you could place a door to the outside of the greenhouse and use it sort of as an entryway also. Heating is the weak link, but you might be amazed what you can do if you start plants in it about April 1st, and grow the tomatoes etc in it until October. Just the added couple months Spring and Fall will limit the amount of heating necessary and probably double your growing season.
One possibility is to have a lean-to with plastic that can be removed in the warmer months. The draw-back to this is that the house might trap too much heat on the "garden" even with the plastic removed, as the house wall may reflect heat onto the garden.
Another alternative is to start the plants early in the house on a window ledge in small trays, and transplant them into progressively larger pots, transferring to the greenhouse when the weather is even warmer, and the pots are too large and numerous for the house. Then, another month in the hot-house and another pot size up, they will be ready for the ground when the outdoor temps are okay.
Gnats and other pests are best controlled by keeping the ground and soil surfaces as free of algae and moss as possible. This can be a little tricky, but if you think about that while setting up your place, you can build in such a way to be easy to keep clean. Also, Rotenone (sp) is a good garden pesticide that is organic (I think---but at the very least very limited in it's bad effects on humans and pets), and a good all round pesticide for gardeners, greenhouse or outdoors.
I think all this should be in keeping with the spirit of this thread----to grow your own produce and veggies----regardless of it's being indoor as opposed to outdoor.
Thanks for all this good info. I have been thinling about a garden, when we get out of the swamp and back to a state with dirt. Some part time homesteading to off set rising food costs.
Eric
Eric
I planted one of these this weekend, already have some great looking sprouts. I live in a suburban area, on a sloping lot. Gardening is difficult. This will at least keep herbs going year round. The starter kit came with basil, wheat grass, and lettuce, but I'll probably replace the lettuce and wheat grass with rosemary and thyme. I don't know yet. I've been reading on aquaponics for quite a while and thought I'd give it a shot. This should be a good intro before stepping up to a larger setup with tilapia and vegetables next year. Being an engineer, I'm always intrigued by efficiency. This is a very good use of space and resources in general. That's not to say it doesn't present it's own challenges.
My setup is obviously the beginning, the micro scale. For large scale, check out this link. 1 million pounds of food raised on 3 acres annually. Cray (as the kids say).
How 1 MILLION Pounds Of Organic Food Can Be Produced On 3 Acres | Wake Up World
4o4,
Not sure about your area, but in the SE rosemary makes a nice, evergreen plant in the landscape. Take a look at your yard and you'll probably find attractive ways to incorporate herbs and even some fruits/veggies into the landscape. Another example; I have had a heck of a time keeping teacup roses. Blueberries like the same soil type, but are much easier to keep, so I yanked the roses out and replaced the rose bushes w/ blueberry bushes.
Not sure about your area, but in the SE rosemary makes a nice, evergreen plant in the landscape. Take a look at your yard and you'll probably find attractive ways to incorporate herbs and even some fruits/veggies into the landscape. Another example; I have had a heck of a time keeping teacup roses. Blueberries like the same soil type, but are much easier to keep, so I yanked the roses out and replaced the rose bushes w/ blueberry bushes.
Tag, great thread keep it going!
Wife and I have been wanting to take the plunge with some planter boxes that have been idle for a couple years now. We will probably make our virgin attempt this coming spring.
We do have a lime tree that is a major producer (about 50 huge limes this year). But now I'm noticing what I think is a leaf miners infestation. I wouldn't mind some more tips on dealing with pests and infestations.
Wife and I have been wanting to take the plunge with some planter boxes that have been idle for a couple years now. We will probably make our virgin attempt this coming spring.
We do have a lime tree that is a major producer (about 50 huge limes this year). But now I'm noticing what I think is a leaf miners infestation. I wouldn't mind some more tips on dealing with pests and infestations.
County extension is your best bet. No limes around here, but we do have other types of leaf miners. Once there're in the leaf, there's no way that I know of to spray them. You can prune (assuming it's OK to prune limes now) and get on them hard next spring to keep them from repeating the cycle.
I have lots of fruit trees and have had some issues. I talked to our County extension and got a 'spray program'. It's (I think) 4 different sprays and a list for when to spray which.
" We will probably make our virgin attempt this coming spring. "
Why wait? Collards, lettuce, spinach, carrots, radishes, ... Yum...
I have lots of fruit trees and have had some issues. I talked to our County extension and got a 'spray program'. It's (I think) 4 different sprays and a list for when to spray which.
" We will probably make our virgin attempt this coming spring. "
Why wait? Collards, lettuce, spinach, carrots, radishes, ... Yum...
Speaking of pests, infestation, and vermin.... we here have an issue with idiot neighbors and their useless cats. What deterrent (short of claymore mines and arial napalm drops) does one suggest as a deterrent for keeping cats away from the tilled soil. They seem to be attracted to our land here, and because of the openness to other neighbors views.... I am limited to what my options are.
I have even less use, for irresponsible pet owners. Suggestions are welcome. We would like to actually plant things that are productive and useful.
I have even less use, for irresponsible pet owners. Suggestions are welcome. We would like to actually plant things that are productive and useful.
+1 MtnCreek love my GSD (I dont know why I ever had another breed) what he doesn't handle a havaheart trap and CCI shorts takes care of except for Fred3's cat which visits and I actually kinda like
It is amazing how much compost you can produce with your vegatable scraps, coffee and filters, egg shells, paper from the shredder, etc during even one winter season. Made an extra composter for this winter out of a large green plastic garbage can than I drilled some 1" inch holes in for circulation. I go out every couple of weeks, tip it over on it's side and roll it back and forth to give things a mix.
I have my legal medical marijuana license, and discovered a solution to the most evil bug that can plague a "garden", Spider Mites! Ive tried all the expensive stuff from Kalthane (chemical) to safers soap.... None of them will effectively get rid of them, they will ALWAYS return. As none of this stuff will rid the undersides of the leaves of the eggs! NOTHING. Its like the manufacturer's dont want yu to to actually get rid of them 100%, but to control them, so you jhave to keep buying their stuff....
I found a safe, chemical free mixture that will kill them on contact, and will also kill the eggs! So, once they are discovered, all thats needed is to give the plants a thorough spraying EVERY day, making SURE the undersides of the leaves are sprayed THOROUGHLY! As they have a four day cycle (lay eggs, four days later hatch), I found if I sprayed EVERY DAY for 12-14 days (giving a day or two off in the middle), I eradicated them 100%! and once I found they were gone, I'd still spray every once in a while, until the plants were starting to show flowers.... (buds));-) I found out about a year ago I had these pests, which i inherited from a fellow grower, as I got clones from him that were infested....
And this solution I came up with is very cheap, and totally non-toxic.
Here it is! you go out to a health food store and get a couple bottles of "Rosemary oil". And the other ingredient is "Safers Soap". You can get that at any greenhouse. It just helps the rosemary oil stick to the leaves, and the mites..... you don't really "need" it, but it really helps. It turns out that Rosemary Oil is totally toxic to spider mites and their eggs, it kills them on contact, and also kills their eggs! I actually used a high power scope, and observed what happens to the mites when it contacts them, they keel right over and croak! And the eggs appear to slightly dissolve. Perfect! I've never found a commercial solution that would actually rid a garden of them 100% they are all designed to simply control them..... here's the ratio I used.
4 litres water
20 ml. Rosemary oil
50-60 ml safers soap.
Mix well in a garden pump up type sprayer, and go to town on the little bastards! I hope this helps!
BTW, to most guys, big fat girls aint that appealing..... but these BIG FAT girls are a different story!
ELEPHANT Strain 6 weeks in....
And BTW guys, this is a 100% LEGAL medical grow.
Ginnz!
I found a safe, chemical free mixture that will kill them on contact, and will also kill the eggs! So, once they are discovered, all thats needed is to give the plants a thorough spraying EVERY day, making SURE the undersides of the leaves are sprayed THOROUGHLY! As they have a four day cycle (lay eggs, four days later hatch), I found if I sprayed EVERY DAY for 12-14 days (giving a day or two off in the middle), I eradicated them 100%! and once I found they were gone, I'd still spray every once in a while, until the plants were starting to show flowers.... (buds));-) I found out about a year ago I had these pests, which i inherited from a fellow grower, as I got clones from him that were infested....
And this solution I came up with is very cheap, and totally non-toxic.
Here it is! you go out to a health food store and get a couple bottles of "Rosemary oil". And the other ingredient is "Safers Soap". You can get that at any greenhouse. It just helps the rosemary oil stick to the leaves, and the mites..... you don't really "need" it, but it really helps. It turns out that Rosemary Oil is totally toxic to spider mites and their eggs, it kills them on contact, and also kills their eggs! I actually used a high power scope, and observed what happens to the mites when it contacts them, they keel right over and croak! And the eggs appear to slightly dissolve. Perfect! I've never found a commercial solution that would actually rid a garden of them 100% they are all designed to simply control them..... here's the ratio I used.
4 litres water
20 ml. Rosemary oil
50-60 ml safers soap.
Mix well in a garden pump up type sprayer, and go to town on the little bastards! I hope this helps!
BTW, to most guys, big fat girls aint that appealing..... but these BIG FAT girls are a different story!
ELEPHANT Strain 6 weeks in....
And BTW guys, this is a 100% LEGAL medical grow.
Ginnz!
I love the idea of self-sustainability. I built an aquaponics garden last summer. Its a soil-less garden that uses fish waste to fertilize the vegetation. So not only do you get organic vegetables, but a continuous supply of edible fish. I use tilapia, but there are several species being used. It uses about 10-15% of the water that a normal garden requires since it is a closed loop system. the water is pumped up from the fish tank to the grow beds, and then is siphoned out of the grow beds after the plants have filtered the waste from it.
