How are the proof 6.5 creedmoor ar10 barrels?

[jomsviking]

Looking to build my first ar10.

Thinking about an aero m5 upper/lower/handheld with a proof 20" barrel.

Never had a CF barrel or a proof barrel.

Pros/cons?

Anyone have any first hand experience?

Just going to be a plinking gun but also want to take it out for hogs at night and whitetails and mule deer too.

 

[longshot2000]

Looking to build my first ar10.

Thinking about an aero m5 upper/lower/handheld with a proof 20" barrel.

Never had a CF barrel or a proof barrel.

Pros/cons?

Anyone have any first hand experience?

Just going to be a plinking gun but also want to take it out for hogs at night and whitetails and mule deer too.

Well, AR10 is really. Brand and not a gendre. Most refer to the category as .308AR, as there is no one universal fit. AR10 does not fit DPMS which does not fit SR25 and then there is LaRue and probably others.

Proof barrels are rock solid and expensive. But a good gas gun starts with the barrel. Proof would not be my first choice, but what they have done with lightweight and carbon fiber is impressive.

Now. You want to take one of the more expensive barrels and mate it to an average receiver set. I suppose better that than the reverse.

But, this expensive barrel you want for “pinking?”

.308 gas guns are by and large not interchangeable parts, and while it is fun to build a 5.56mm AR, I would encourage you to buy a .308 rifle. It sure which brand? Start with LMT. Always great and not hugely expensive. Want to spend more
And get similar quality , buy KAC or LaRue. Really want an AR10, that is Armamite. Want to spend less, Rock River, CMMG, Stag all make solid less expensive Guns that do more than plink.

 

[jomsviking]

Already own a 14.5" sr25 sbr, I'm looking to build a 6.5cm ar10.

 

[CrabsandFootball]

Buy a 6.5CM SR25 upper. Atleast that will run.

 

[jomsviking]

Buy a 6.5CM SR25 upper. Atleast that will run.

Why will the aero m5 upper not run?

I figure a good barrel, good bcg, adjustable gas block should run just fine.

 

[UpSideDown]

I do feel slightly snobbish after buying a Barrett, but AR-10's aren't rocket science. There's a few different patterns that you need to pick parts from, and they're more picky to get running well than an AR-15 is. But you're still buying ready made parts. Yes, an Aero set with a good barrel and BCG and proper gas system will run. Aero is kinda cheap and I personally prefer better receivers now but I also haven't been let down by them.

 

[CrabsandFootball]

Why will the aero m5 upper not run?

I figure a good barrel, good bcg, adjustable gas block should run just fine.

Your right they are legos. Just slap rando parts together.

Enjoy.

 

[jomsviking]

Your right they are legos. Just slap rando parts together.

Enjoy.

Do you have any evidence that the aero m5 relievers won't run well with a proof barrel with adjustable gas?

 

[UpSideDown]

Your right they are legos. Just slap rando parts together.

Enjoy.

That's a terrible answer to something he didn't say.

 

[jomsviking]

That's a terrible answer to something he didn't say.

I assumed it was a lazy cop out so he didn't have to actually answer because...he doesn't know the answer.

 

[UpSideDown]

Find out what pattern the Aero part are if you already have or are set on those receivers. Then, buy parts in that pattern. Proof makes great barrels. Carbon is lighter, dissipates heat very well, and is expensive. They also have unique gas system lengths on some of their 6.5CM barrels.

 

[CrabsandFootball]

That's a terrible answer to something he didn't say.

I don't need to answer a rhetorical question.

So again, if you want something that will run correctly, buy a SR25 Upper in 6.5CM.

Its not hard to understand.

 

[UpSideDown]

I don't need to answer a rhetorical question.

So again, if you want something that will run correctly, buy a SR25 Upper in 6.5CM.

Its not hard to understand.

It’s not hard to understand that buying an SR-25 upper isn’t the solution to every person that wants an AR-10. It also shouldn’t be hard to understand that a proof carbon barrel and an SR-25 upper are two different things. And yet, here you are.

 

[jomsviking]

I don't need to answer a rhetorical question.

So again, if you want something that will run correctly, buy a SR25 Upper in 6.5CM.

Its not hard to understand.

Sounds like you don't know what you're talking about so you're just covering with "buy an sr25 upper derp"

 

[CrabsandFootball]

Your the one asking basic bitch questions and I don't know what I'm talking about?

You said u already have a SR25. The easy answer is to buy a SR25 upper for it, to ensure it runs correctly.

A proof barrel is $1000 alone, add in other comparable parts are you are easily north of $2K for just the upper using quality parts that may or MAY NOT work together correctly.

The internet and this site is littered with the same kinds of clowns begging for help why their gun won't run or won't shoot. The same gun they pieced together because they don't have the knowledge to do it correctly, which includes parts sourcing.

Aero is bottom of the barrel trash, but that won't stop 5 other equally clueless posters from telling ya to go for it.

I just gave you the best advice above so take it or don't.

 

[MarinePMI]

Your the one asking basic bitch questions and I don't know what I'm talking about?

You said u already have a SR25. The easy answer is to buy a SR25 upper for it, to ensure it runs correctly.

A proof barrel is $1000 alone, add in other comparable parts are you are easily north of $2K for just the upper using quality parts that may or MAY NOT work together correctly.

The internet and this site is littered with the same kinds of clowns begging for help why their gun won't run or won't shoot. The same gun they pieced together because they don't have the knowledge to do it correctly, which includes parts sourcing.

Aero is bottom of the barrel trash, but that won't stop 5 other equally clueless posters from telling ya to go for it.

I just gave you the best advice above so take it or don't.

Do I really need to say it?

The next time, your vacation will be permanent, rather than 30 days.

 

[jomsviking]

Your the one asking basic bitch questions and I don't know what I'm talking about?

You said u already have a SR25. The easy answer is to buy a SR25 upper for it, to ensure it runs correctly.

A proof barrel is $1000 alone, add in other comparable parts are you are easily north of $2K for just the upper using quality parts that may or MAY NOT work together correctly.

The internet and this site is littered with the same kinds of clowns begging for help why their gun won't run or won't shoot. The same gun they pieced together because they don't have the knowledge to do it correctly, which includes parts sourcing.

Aero is bottom of the barrel trash, but that won't stop 5 other equally clueless posters from telling ya to go for it.

I just gave you the best advice above so take it or don't.

My question was if the proof barrels are good or not, not a single fucking thing about the aero receivers and yet here you are letting the entire world you don't know shit about fuck.

I already have an aero m5 blem lower I got from the lgs for $55 last week so ill be building from that.

Adios moron.

 

[Shoots 700's]

Proof barrels are very good

 

[rangerlong]

I have the 22” stainless proof with the CAMGAS system. It came with the gas tube of the appropriate length. I put a superlative arms adjustable gas block on it.
I’m using the Aero M5 enhanced upper.
About 3/4” of the gas block sticks out past the 15” aero handguard. The gas tube does not stick out. Matched lower, and their parts kit and bcg. It’s small firing pin.
Very pleased with the setup. No feed/function issues so far.
Can’t complain about accuracy.

 

[troupe]

I built one, it ran fine, was a 5/8 rifle with good factory ammo. Wish I never sold it. Will build another someday.

 

[Broncovan]

Whatever you do, remember one thing. If you get a 20" proof barrel, the camgas system (+2") and 6.5cm pressures don't go well together. I spent a lot of time, ammo and parts trying to get mine to run reliably. But I did learn a lot.
Started with JP low mass BCG, JP captured spring (rifle length) and adjustable gas block
Then standard bolt
Next, standard spring
Carbine spring and heavy buffer
4 different ammo types with each change. Probably a couple more things I don't remember.
Talked to my LGS about this a few times, along with a local AR parts manufacturer.
They both said the same thing, heavier buffer/spring combo or drill out the gas port. So I emailed Proof and they basically said to drill out the port. The 20" barrel doesn't have enough dwell time to reliably cycle properly, 22" and longer is fine. So I ended up drilling out the gas port to drill size #44. The gas port size is a known issue with their 20" 6.5cm +2 barrels.
So as mentioned above, there are a lot of variables in the large frame ARs that you don't see on the small frame guns.
Oh and one more thing, the upper and lower are Aero, fit and finish is fine and the gun shoots .5 to .75 5 shot groups regularly with Hornady 140gr ELDM ammo.
Don't pay any attention to the clown above.

 

[JbBooks]

Why will the aero m5 upper not run?

I figure a good barrel, good bcg, adjustable gas block should run just fine.

It will, if you’re diligent in your build it will run just fine. The carbon fiber proof barrels are nice, if your wanting to cut some weight, but if weight is not an issue, there are plenty of other great options for a lot less cost. Good luck!

 

[Cascade Hemi]

Looking to build my first ar10.

Thinking about an aero m5 upper/lower/handheld with a proof 20" barrel.

Never had a CF barrel or a proof barrel.

Pros/cons?

Anyone have any first hand experience?

Just going to be a plinking gun but also want to take it out for hogs at night and whitetails and mule deer too.

Pros:
-High quality barrel, both of mine shoot well.
-Lighter weight than equivalent diameter steel barrel.
-Very efficient heat dissipation.
-More rigid than equivalent weight steel barrel.

Cons:
-Higher cost than equivalent all steel barrels.
-Not actually a lightweight barrel, just lighter than equivalent steel diameter.
-Less rigid than equivalent diameter steel barrel.
-Heat mirage from uncovered portions of the barrel.

There are a lot of good barrels out there, Proof is one of them. If it fits your objectives then it may be a good option.

 

[jomsviking]

Whatever you do, remember one thing. If you get a 20" proof barrel, the camgas system (+2") and 6.5cm pressures don't go well together. I spent a lot of time, ammo and parts trying to get mine to run reliably. But I did learn a lot.
Started with JP low mass BCG, JP captured spring (rifle length) and adjustable gas block
Then standard bolt
Next, standard spring
Carbine spring and heavy buffer
4 different ammo types with each change. Probably a couple more things I don't remember.
Talked to my LGS about this a few times, along with a local AR parts manufacturer.
They both said the same thing, heavier buffer/spring combo or drill out the gas port. So I emailed Proof and they basically said to drill out the port. The 20" barrel doesn't have enough dwell time to reliably cycle properly, 22" and longer is fine. So I ended up drilling out the gas port to drill size #44. The gas port size is a known issue with their 20" 6.5cm +2 barrels.
So as mentioned above, there are a lot of variables in the large frame ARs that you don't see on the small frame guns.
Oh and one more thing, the upper and lower are Aero, fit and finish is fine and the gun shoots .5 to .75 5 shot groups regularly with Hornady 140gr ELDM ammo.
Don't pay any attention to the clown above.

Whatever you do, remember one thing. If you get a 20" proof barrel, the camgas system (+2") and 6.5cm pressures don't go well together. I spent a lot of time, ammo and parts trying to get mine to run reliably. But I did learn a lot.
Started with JP low mass BCG, JP captured spring (rifle length) and adjustable gas block
Then standard bolt
Next, standard spring
Carbine spring and heavy buffer
4 different ammo types with each change. Probably a couple more things I don't remember.
Talked to my LGS about this a few times, along with a local AR parts manufacturer.
They both said the same thing, heavier buffer/spring combo or drill out the gas port. So I emailed Proof and they basically said to drill out the port. The 20" barrel doesn't have enough dwell time to reliably cycle properly, 22" and longer is fine. So I ended up drilling out the gas port to drill size #44. The gas port size is a known issue with their 20" 6.5cm +2 barrels.
So as mentioned above, there are a lot of variables in the large frame ARs that you don't see on the small frame guns.
Oh and one more thing, the upper and lower are Aero, fit and finish is fine and the gun shoots .5 to .75 5 shot groups regularly with Hornady 140gr ELDM ammo.
Don't pay any attention to the clown above.

Were you shooting suppressed at all?

Not wanting to really go over 20" barrel.

I'll be shooting with a rugged surge on 24/7.

 

[iktomi]

I have experience with (2x) Proof 22" in 6.5 Creedmoor (in gassers).

Both have demonstrated (unbelievably) high accuracy potential.

The issue is not putting a Proof in an Aero set, but balancing the gas system.

The 6.5C has very different pressure characteristics than 5.56 loads.

I never plan on chasing velocity in load development. But I always do. And that leads to less forgiving tunes for extraction.

Keeping your bolt lock time high enough can be challenging, depending on the rest of the part you select in the build.

Restricting gas (depending on all the other dynamics) doesn't necessarily result in enough control of the timing of extraction.

(Proof clearly states that the gas system is designed for full mass BCGs.)

In the end, a bunch of beautifully machined TI got shelved for heavier mass parts for more reliable extraction. (Like Proof told me to do from the start.)

The argument for bought-not-built is that a reputable builder should have the gas ports, reciprocating mass, and spring tension balanced for factory loads and pressure. Keep in mind, this includes the relationship between the spring rate of the buffer spring and the lower extension length, etc.

If you go down this road, I'd start with a full mass system. In my experience, it's the easiest to tune over the widest spread of pressures.

I seem to always be able to get AR15s to run 'awesome' with a tweak to spring rate, or gas, or mass. They cooperate over a wide range of loads.

6.5C required a lot more critical thought and intentional development, and are not nearly as compliant as 5.56 ARs.

 

[Broncovan]

Were you shooting suppressed at all?

Not wanting to really go over 20" barrel.

I'll be shooting with a rugged surge on 24/7.

No, I didn't want to suppress this one. I've never been happy with how bad the large frame gassers beat up the brass.

 

[USP45]

Not to revive an old thread, but I found this while searching for an answer to my question about a Proof CF 6.5cm barrel.

What I was looking for had to do with using a suppressor in conjunction with a CF barrel. I am running, make that *was* running, a 22" Proof CF barrel in 6.5cm with either a Silencerco Saker 7.62 or Omega 300 suppressor. I said "was" since I have now removed the barrel after 125 rounds and will be selling it, have already ordered another Proof full stainless barrel to replace it. My issue was that with 5 different loads it grouped fantastically without a suppressor, but once one was used the groups were terrible. And there was a 1 mil poi shift with the suppressor below the unsuppressed impact point. I could live with the poi shift if not exactly pleased about it, but the groups completely opening up not so much. Tried 130gr Berger hybrid, 140gr Hornady ELD-M, 143gr ELD-X and 153gr A-Tip. While I might be able to find a bullet/powder charge that works, I do not really want to keep putting round after round down the barrel getting there and in my experience I have been able to work up a good load with normal stainless barrels in the past.

So long story short, without a suppressor it shot great with all of the loads I tried, normally .5 MOA or thereabouts. With suppressor they all opened up significantly, as in 1.5-1.75 MOA. So that was my experience and as such the barrel is going to be sold.

 

[celltech]

I have built 4 Aero M5 based AR-10s. All of them work great and cycle just fine. Yes, they are rough on brass so I just reload leftovers I get at the range and don't worry about it. If you go 6.5 or some other high pressure round then make sure you have a really good gas block. I was using Oden's on my .308s but they were not stopping enough gas on the 6.5s. Superlative Arms block fixed that right up...

 

[Clayman]

Not to revive an old thread, but I found this while searching for an answer to my question about a Proof CF 6.5cm barrel.

What I was looking for had to do with using a suppressor in conjunction with a CF barrel. I am running, make that *was* running, a 22" Proof CF barrel in 6.5cm with either a Silencerco Saker 7.62 or Omega 300 suppressor. I said "was" since I have now removed the barrel after 125 rounds and will be selling it, have already ordered another Proof full stainless barrel to replace it. My issue was that with 5 different loads it grouped fantastically without a suppressor, but once one was used the groups were terrible. And there was a 1 mil poi shift with the suppressor below the unsuppressed impact point. I could live with the poi shift if not exactly pleased about it, but the groups completely opening up not so much. Tried 130gr Berger hybrid, 140gr Hornady ELD-M, 143gr ELD-X and 153gr A-Tip. While I might be able to find a bullet/powder charge that works, I do not really want to keep putting round after round down the barrel getting there and in my experience I have been able to work up a good load with normal stainless barrels in the past.

So long story short, without a suppressor it shot great with all of the loads I tried, normally .5 MOA or thereabouts. With suppressor they all opened up significantly, as in 1.5-1.75 MOA. So that was my experience and as such the barrel is going to be sold.

Have you tried the omega direct threaded? This sounds like it could also be a tolerance stacking issue with the qd. Might be a muzzle device problem.

 

[KineticPerformance]

So long story short, without a suppressor it shot great with all of the loads I tried, normally .5 MOA or thereabouts. With suppressor they all opened up significantly, as in 1.5-1.75 MOA. So that was my experience and as such the barrel is going to be sold.

I have a CF barrel that behaves the exact opposite. It will shoot tiny groups with a can but shoots like hot garbage without a one using the same load; I mean the difference between a .1-.2 MoA gun and a 1.5-2 MoA gun. I think it's because the barrel is less rigid than a similar diameter steel barrel so it has less tolerance for weight hanging off the end without significant change in amplitude or frequency. I hoped I could use a can or a brake but it's a permanent can gun unless I want to tune a second load for a brake.

 

[GUNNER10]

Your the one asking basic bitch questions and I don't know what I'm talking about?

You said u already have a SR25. The easy answer is to buy a SR25 upper for it, to ensure it runs correctly.

A proof barrel is $1000 alone, add in other comparable parts are you are easily north of $2K for just the upper using quality parts that may or MAY NOT work together correctly.

The internet and this site is littered with the same kinds of clowns begging for help why their gun won't run or won't shoot. The same gun they pieced together because they don't have the knowledge to do it correctly, which includes parts sourcing.

Aero is bottom of the barrel trash, but that won't stop 5 other equally clueless posters from telling ya to go for it.

I just gave you the best advice above so take it or don't.

LoL...

A little harsh but this is correct, generally speaking, combining ultra premium components with bargain bin stuff leads to interesting results, Could works our great, could be a nightmare with no resale value.

I've built a couple large frame gas guns that have been great, With that being said, I shoot factory Kac an LMT stuff these days

 

[deersniper]

Whatever you do, remember one thing. If you get a 20" proof barrel, the camgas system (+2") and 6.5cm pressures don't go well together. I spent a lot of time, ammo and parts trying to get mine to run reliably. But I did learn a lot.
Started with JP low mass BCG, JP captured spring (rifle length) and adjustable gas block
Then standard bolt
Next, standard spring
Carbine spring and heavy buffer
4 different ammo types with each change. Probably a couple more things I don't remember.
Talked to my LGS about this a few times, along with a local AR parts manufacturer.
They both said the same thing, heavier buffer/spring combo or drill out the gas port. So I emailed Proof and they basically said to drill out the port. The 20" barrel doesn't have enough dwell time to reliably cycle properly, 22" and longer is fine. So I ended up drilling out the gas port to drill size #44. The gas port size is a known issue with their 20" 6.5cm +2 barrels.
So as mentioned above, there are a lot of variables in the large frame ARs that you don't see on the small frame guns.
Oh and one more thing, the upper and lower are Aero, fit and finish is fine and the gun shoots .5 to .75 5 shot groups regularly with Hornady 140gr ELDM ammo.
Don't pay any attention to the clown above.

Maybe it’s cause I shoot supprwssed but I had someone throw a proof 65 20” in a sp10 and it runs perfect. I run a AGB

 

[deersniper]

 

[USP45]

Have you tried the omega direct threaded? This sounds like it could also be a tolerance stacking issue with the qd. Might be a muzzle device problem.

No, I never tried either suppressor direct threaded although there is a possibility of tolerance stacking. As of last night I finished up installing the new Proof 24" stainless barrel and the 22" CF is boxed up so I can list it. I am sure there is nothing wrong with the CF barrels as mine shoots great without a suppressor and others have them working well suppressed and unsuppressed, it just did not work as well in my application.

 

[WoobieJ]

Do you have any evidence that the aero m5 relievers won't run well with a proof barrel with adjustable gas?

Aero M5 with proof 6.5 Creedmoor with adjustable gas will run just fine, I’ve built one. They also shoot lights out if you do it right.

 

[ratrod54]

Why will the aero m5 upper not run?

I figure a good barrel, good bcg, adjustable gas block should run just fine.

They run fine. I have this exact setup. Have had zero issues.

 

[Billiam1211]

I just got a 24-inch Proof Research steel barrel with +2 gas system. I'm using the JP LMOS bcg and a JP SCS. Popped it on yesterday and went to the range, this was my first 5 shot group out of the gun. No load development either - 41.5gr H4350 / 140 ELD yielded an average velocity 2,740 fps with an SD of 14. I'm pretty happy with that for day one range trip. May have been a tad hot for a gas gun because there a few cycling issues, but I'll address that next trip.