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Gunsmithing How hard can I torque down a barrel vise?
- Thread starter tsu45
- Start date
I don't know about barrel damage, but I'd lube the threads on the studs to prevent galling. I have had some of the coating on mine come off from going too low on the torque vs too high. You shouldn't need a whole lot, just get it even and make sure the top plate doesn't bind. Not sure what action you're putting a barrel on, but a lot require 100 foot pounds or less which is easily achieved before you get a few hits with an impact.
Its an aluminum vice, you’re really only going to get so much clamp from it before adding more torque to the nuts looses effectiveness. I shield the barrel by wrapping it in a large post-it note(any paper will do), and tighten with a box wrench. Maybe 20 ft/lbs on the nuts will do fine. Do not use an impact.
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Thanks guys. Don’t have any anti-seize on hand so looks like I’m headed to the store when the boy wakes up. Any suggestion on type?
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I torque the bolts on my Viper vise to about 30 ft/lbs, and wrap the barrel in some thin cardboard. Works fine for barrel torque up to around 100 ft/lb, though I normally use 60ft/lb for my barrels.
I use copper based anti-seize from the auto parts store for barrel threads, don't have any on the studs of the viper vise and they've been fine.
I use copper based anti-seize from the auto parts store for barrel threads, don't have any on the studs of the viper vise and they've been fine.
Any grease on the barrel threads will work, just dont want to leave them dry. I dont put any on my Viper bolt threads and done 100's of barrel installs on it.
I use NAPA copper based, works fine. I wouldnt agonize over which type is “perfect”....
I would suggest moving the vice closer to the edge of your bench. You want the vice purchase area to be as close to the trunion/breach as possible.
I have wondered this. Specifically, do I have to worry about warping the bore by tightening the vice too much? I don’t use a vice much but use wooden blocks when I do and I have to tighten the living $hit out of them. I have read over and over that you can’t hurt the barrel but it feels scary putting that much pressure on it.
Assuming the barrel diameter is large enough, I doubt you could damage it. But, I think its just good practice to clamp it on the trunion.
It would be seriously hard to damage the bore. The nicer the jaws are(better fit), the harder it would be. Generally though, the softness of the interface (wood, aluminum, cardboard, paper) prevents damage. The viper fits poorly compared to the high end vices, but it works just fine for the torque ranges we’re working in.
As close as I can get it without getting into metal underneath. I can still move the barrel in a few more inches while clearing the edge of the bench. It will ultimately end up on a receiver hitch where clearance won’t be an issue.
Don't get too crazy with it. The viper vice is not particularly strong. It is plenty for doing Remage, savage/ barrel nut barrels. Removing factory shouldered barrels is tough and will be pretty tough on the viper vice. I am hoping mine can last through one more factory remingto barrel removal, when my 223 is shot out. The first two left it in pretty rough shape. I bent the top aluminum piece, most of the coating started to peel off, and one of the nuts froze to the stud. For light duty stuff, its handy as a pocket on shirt.
To answer your question, I don't think you will ever get it tight enough to damage a barrel.
To answer your question, I don't think you will ever get it tight enough to damage a barrel.
I've heard reports that the Viper is not what you want for factory Remington/etc barrel removals but other than that the Viper will handle everything else, not just Remage/Savage nut setups. I dont remove factory barrels so I have zero experience with that but Ive installed and removed 100's of custom shouldered barrels on custom actions at 75ft lbs without a single issue. Prefit/nut setups are usually torqued to 35-40ft lbs.
I heard that the viper isnt enough to remove factory barrel, I havent found that to be the case though (in my sample of 1). I tightened the 4 nuts with a box end wrench until it got all the way solid but no more, not sure I would trust an impact to hit that point before it starts going past what the threads could bear.
I used a toilet paper tube, Ive also used a business card in between the barrel and vice to avoid marring it.
I could tell that the nss action wrench didnt afford me nearly enough leverage so a good breaker bar made quick work of it. I barely even had to push with the breaker bar. It never once seemed like the viper wasnt up to the task .
Ive been very pleased with it.
I used a toilet paper tube, Ive also used a business card in between the barrel and vice to avoid marring it.
I could tell that the nss action wrench didnt afford me nearly enough leverage so a good breaker bar made quick work of it. I barely even had to push with the breaker bar. It never once seemed like the viper wasnt up to the task .
Ive been very pleased with it.
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I heard that the viper isnt enough to remove factory barrel, I havent found that to be the case though (in my sample of 1). I tightened the 4 nuts with a box end wrench until it got all the way solid but no more, not sure I would trust an impact to hit that point before it starts going past what the threads could bear.
I used a toilet paper tube, Ive also used a business card in between the barrel and vice to avoid marring it.
I could tell that the nss action wrench didnt afford me nearly enough leverage so a good breaker bar made quick work of it. I barely even had to push with the breaker bar. It never once seemed like the viper wasnt up to the task .
Ive been very pleased with it.
I don't think factory barrels coming loose that easy is the norm. My newer 700 came apart a lot easier than the old 700p 300wm, but it was still a struggle to get the barrel vice to hold on both. I had to use an impact to get the barrel vice to hold, on the 300wm it was stuck. I had to heat up, get a cheater pipe. It will do it. I think its a great vice for a hobbiest, use mine all the time. I am not sure how i got by with out one.
Speaking of barrel vises, this came across my feed today... Looks like it has some actual thought put into it. Really handy mounting and use at first glance. Curious to see what pricing will be like.
https://www.facebook.com/Shortactio...3255.129307957092991/2008509342506167/?type=3
To the OP, you'd have a hard time crushing a barrel in a properly used barrel vise of any design. I've even used half-pipe inserts in a hydraulic press with no damage done to the barrel (raw stainless, can't speak for how well Ckote or the like would hold up).
https://www.facebook.com/Shortactio...3255.129307957092991/2008509342506167/?type=3
To the OP, you'd have a hard time crushing a barrel in a properly used barrel vise of any design. I've even used half-pipe inserts in a hydraulic press with no damage done to the barrel (raw stainless, can't speak for how well Ckote or the like would hold up).
Please don't use a 1/2" impact on your Viper vice unless you film it.
Any decent 1/2" impact will generate 180-200 ft lbs in a hurry and will just damage shit.
You will want to use some kind of lubricant on the threads of the vice studs as well to prevent any chances of galling there to.
Any decent 1/2" impact will generate 180-200 ft lbs in a hurry and will just damage shit.
You will want to use some kind of lubricant on the threads of the vice studs as well to prevent any chances of galling there to.
I wrap my barrels in hockey tape before I put it in my Viper vice. This accomplishes two things:
1. It provides extra grip to prevent the barrel from turning in the vice.
2. Protects the barrel.
I tighten the vice as tight as I can with a small rachet wrench and socket. I also apply copper anti-seize to the barrel tennon threads.
1. It provides extra grip to prevent the barrel from turning in the vice.
2. Protects the barrel.
I tighten the vice as tight as I can with a small rachet wrench and socket. I also apply copper anti-seize to the barrel tennon threads.
About the factory barrel removal:
Grind flats on the side, stick the MF in a bench vice, and remove the action.
Seriously. Most of them aren't worth crap on the open market anyway.
(Yes, there are clearly exceptions, and I know of them. But a factory 7 Mag barrel with 5 seasons of rain and 300+ rounds on it get's the same treatment as a lawnmower blade, and if you grind fairly close to the chamber, the thread locker crap is a little less tough.)
-Nate
Grind flats on the side, stick the MF in a bench vice, and remove the action.
Seriously. Most of them aren't worth crap on the open market anyway.
(Yes, there are clearly exceptions, and I know of them. But a factory 7 Mag barrel with 5 seasons of rain and 300+ rounds on it get's the same treatment as a lawnmower blade, and if you grind fairly close to the chamber, the thread locker crap is a little less tough.)
-Nate
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I can usually get around 100 dollars for a take off barrel. If I can get it off without trashing it.
FWIW & IMO,
Dunno if you how often you need one, however, if you need the best of the best Jerry Fisher has one made that is a copy of the one in his shop that is the best I have ever used used(and shortly after owned). Granted $575 plus, before bushings which run $55-83, for a barrel vise can be expensive for those who rarely use them. It can also pay for itself in one use by not slipping and ruining something that can't be replaced. The picture does not begin to do it justice. The picture also does not show a barrel bushing installed..
Regards, Matt.
Dunno if you how often you need one, however, if you need the best of the best Jerry Fisher has one made that is a copy of the one in his shop that is the best I have ever used used(and shortly after owned). Granted $575 plus, before bushings which run $55-83, for a barrel vise can be expensive for those who rarely use them. It can also pay for itself in one use by not slipping and ruining something that can't be replaced. The picture does not begin to do it justice. The picture also does not show a barrel bushing installed..
Regards, Matt.
