I know this is a very loaded question but curious how long did it take you guys to start learning simple task on a lathe like threading a barrel for a muzzle brake or suppressor? Would like to be able to chamber my own guns but for now I'd be happy learning to thread. I turn wrenches & fix our fleet of semi trucks & can fabricate & self teach myself but I never have spent much time on a lathe.
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Gunsmithing How much time on lathe?
- Thread starter SNOW JW
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It will not take you long at all.
Just watch a few you tube videos a proceed slowly an you will understand it very quickly. Start by practicing on soft grade 3 bolt shanks. Take a 3/4" bolt an turn it down & thread to a 1/2" fine once you get it down, take a piece of 3/4 cold roll an bore a 5-6" whole in it. Learn how to use an set up a range rod, then thread it. it should all come quickly after that. Once you have that down pat, step up to harder metal an do a few. from then on it's all down hill.
Just watch a few you tube videos a proceed slowly an you will understand it very quickly. Start by practicing on soft grade 3 bolt shanks. Take a 3/4" bolt an turn it down & thread to a 1/2" fine once you get it down, take a piece of 3/4 cold roll an bore a 5-6" whole in it. Learn how to use an set up a range rod, then thread it. it should all come quickly after that. Once you have that down pat, step up to harder metal an do a few. from then on it's all down hill.
Operating a lathe is not all that difficult , being able to hold tolerances is the art .
You will learn quickly but remember some basic safety rules. Never take your hand off the chuck key while the key is in the chuck. Do not wear loose fitting clothing. Long hair can also get you in trouble.
I taught myself how to thread manually. Bought a 12' stick of 1.250 mild steel, had it cut into 3' sticks so I could haul it to work on my gixxer (shut up, all I had at the time
) and I went to work learning it.By the 12th foot I was so sick of turning n threading that I felt like I had it down. $120 bucks and a weekend is all it cost me. That was 1998.
I taught myself how to thread manually. Bought a 12' stick of 1.250 mild steel, had it cut into 3' sticks so I could haul it to work on my gixxer (shut up, all I had at the time
By the 12th foot I was so sick of turning n threading that I felt like I had it down. $120 bucks and a weekend is all it cost me. That was 1998.
So as a professional now who did it manually in the beginning how much simpler is it using CNC machines ?
It's not about simpler as its just a different application of skill sets. Automation puts minutes back on the clock, so your more productive and hopefully you fill your coffers a little better. The other added plus is consistency is much easier to maintain. Imagine making a 1,000 muzzle brakes from scratch on a gap bed engine lathe. I'd rather slice my wrists with a parting tool.
The consequence though is that when things go wrong, it's usually at least double what it costs on a manual to make right again.
I transitioned to code pretty easily. I can "see it" in my head where's some struggle more. A lot of this probably comes from that I started in job shops making parts as an operator. I didn't get to touch anything other than the green button back then but I studied the code where's a lot of others just picked their noses.
The biggest thing with CNC machines is that when programming you (me anyway) MUST basically put the entire world on pause. I can't do phones, drama, or looky looky stuff when I have my face staring at a monitor or control screen. My good friend Ted describes it as "don't break the glass" and he and I have a standing rule that if one of us calls while the other is in that moment, the phone doesn't get answered.
I didn't answer your question really, but maybe this helped.
Never hurts to get someone that knows what their doing to teach you. You can learn a lot by yourself but even quicker with someone that knows what their doing. Safer too.
I put myself through our local community colleges machining program. Cost me about $3000 but I have the certificates and skill sets now to get another job should I want or need to.
I put myself through our local community colleges machining program. Cost me about $3000 but I have the certificates and skill sets now to get another job should I want or need to.
Thanks for all the replies I'll search around for a lathe now. Would be nice to have in the shop anyways been many a times I could have used one.
Purely from a hobby perspective (not a business), a lathe (even a small 12x36) is one of those things IME, that once you have, you wonder how you ever lived without one. I (or the wife) am always coming up with something that requires making a part or piece...
. . . then you realize, I need a mill.
Which is all fine and dandy... until you add up the cost of tooling. ?
I got really lucky and just got a nice 12x48 Sheldon with all tooling and attachments minus a milling attachment for 1500 bucks. Even came with a complete 5C collet set.
Bought a PM12x36 and got it setup. Took me an hour to figure out how to turn it on. Broke some tooling learning to make parts, about 4 weeks later I have my first rifle built on a Howa action (metric threads) and it shot very well. Never looked back and Im always looking for a better way to build a rifle. Tread lightly, it can get expensive.
Casey
Casey
10 hours to cut a thread
100 hours to understand speeds and feeds / rigidity
1000 hours to understand lathe setup/alignment/geometry
10000 hours to master
100 hours to understand speeds and feeds / rigidity
1000 hours to understand lathe setup/alignment/geometry
10000 hours to master
What’s even better is a lathe that is both f-in & f-mm...
Couldn't tell you how many hours, but it's sure a nice feeling when you start noticing you don't fuck things up (often) anymore. Just like anything else, more use gives more familiarity & experience, gives better & more consistent end results.
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Start with metric threads running up to a shoulder. Everything else will be as easy as walking compared to that, at least on our machines. Lucky for me I was tought on a machine with no chasing dial, so every thread was metric as far as I was concerned.
In all seriousness, just get in and start making chips. It's a dieing skill set around here.
In all seriousness, just get in and start making chips. It's a dieing skill set around here.
I started on a metric machine as well. I learned alot on it.
Moving to an inch machine wasn't hard. The most challenging aspect of the switch was cutting metric threads to a shoulder, with an inch leadscrew, and still using the threading dial. Turns out, it's actually really easy!
I've been using both manual and CNC equipment for about 15 years, and still f@ck up tools and parts occasionally.
I made myself a remington action wrench and a couple recoil lug alignment tools a couple weeks ago, and ended up making the wrench twice. A novice error, I turned the correct diameter on the wrong end ?.
I also designed a ramped .40 barrel for some AR40 blowback pistols to cure some feeding issues. It turned out great and runs like a Swiss clock.
Moving to an inch machine wasn't hard. The most challenging aspect of the switch was cutting metric threads to a shoulder, with an inch leadscrew, and still using the threading dial. Turns out, it's actually really easy!
I've been using both manual and CNC equipment for about 15 years, and still f@ck up tools and parts occasionally.
I made myself a remington action wrench and a couple recoil lug alignment tools a couple weeks ago, and ended up making the wrench twice. A novice error, I turned the correct diameter on the wrong end ?.
I also designed a ramped .40 barrel for some AR40 blowback pistols to cure some feeding issues. It turned out great and runs like a Swiss clock.
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So what's stopping you? If you have the mecahincal/fab mindset you can do a lot of things with a chicom benchtop 8x16 38mm spindle bore metal lathe. You can dip your toe in the lathe Kool-Aid before you go full retard. If you have $3000 for a LR rifle/optic then you have enough for a lathe and basic tooling.
I’ve got this bug too! Availability of lathes in Alaska is slim. My grandmother has my grandfathers old Craftsman Commercial lathe still. Pondering how to get it to Alaska from California. $$$
I used to teach apprentice machinists how to run lathes, mills, and NC/CNC machines. Some learn quicker than others. If you understand math, threading is really easy. If you are math challenged, you will stumble often. Some can be shown in 20-30 minutes, some will need to keep their day job. I've got 45 years in so far.
I took a night class at a local Vo-Tech. Bought a lathe near the end of the term (14x40) and started doing work. 10 years later I still learn stuff all the time. Never stop learning. Turning the knobs is the easy part. Knowing what you’re doing is an art that some people will never figure out.
So my next question is to buy used or new?? How easy is it to buy a used lathe that can't hold tight tolerances? Any brands I should look for or brands to stay away from tips when searching like what to look for? I am thinking used then if I spend more time on it & find I enjoy it allot I can sell to upgrade & at that point I will have a better idea of what I want in my next lathe am I going about it wrong?
Buying a used lathe is like buying anything else used. You can get a great deal, you can get screwed over, or anything in between.
Most people would recommend you have a mechanic check out a used car before you buy it.
I'd recommend you have someone competent check out a used lathe as well. If that's not possible, you should start running Google searches like "buying a used lathe" or "what to look for buying a used lathe".
If your going to check it out yourself before buying, and don't already know what to look for, spend some time on forums like practical machinist, home shop machinist and hobby machinist asking questions and reading.
To get you started:
Most people would recommend you have a mechanic check out a used car before you buy it.
I'd recommend you have someone competent check out a used lathe as well. If that's not possible, you should start running Google searches like "buying a used lathe" or "what to look for buying a used lathe".
If your going to check it out yourself before buying, and don't already know what to look for, spend some time on forums like practical machinist, home shop machinist and hobby machinist asking questions and reading.
To get you started:
I saw a post on the wives part of the forum. I don’t know if it was your wife but she said you are cleared to buy a new one of whatever you want! ?
My biggest problem when I started was being impatient. I would take cut after cut and not measure until I had taken off too much. Now I trust my dials, it might take longer but I rarely screw threading up.
Probably took me a few months to figure things out.
Probably took me a few months to figure things out.
If this is too far off the beaten path ignore it, but how did you learn/taught to thread...a straight feed in on X, or use the compound at 29.5-30* for 60* threads? I ask because the local TVA has a spring bolt test for applying machinists where they require one to feed straight in on X...I was taught with the compound and a simple formula.
I like the insert tools that use TNMC inserts. They're strong and just seem to last forever.
I have the Mesa Tools tnmc holder and a Dorian BXA tnmc holder. Both work well.
I usually set the compound to 29-1/2, even using inserts.
I have the Mesa Tools tnmc holder and a Dorian BXA tnmc holder. Both work well.
I usually set the compound to 29-1/2, even using inserts.
I just got about 50 lbs of HSS and carbide cutting bits from a junk store yesterday. The guy said that I chose the most expensive stuff in the store and I was cringing thinking that he would hit me with a high price. He wanted 75 bucks for all of it. ?
BTW, what are stellite tools good for? There are some in the box.
BTW, what are stellite tools good for? There are some in the box.
See if you can find a Kennametal insert in KC5010 grade.I like the insert tools that use TNMC inserts. They're strong and just seem to last forever.
I have the Mesa Tools tnmc holder and a Dorian BXA tnmc holder. Both work well.
I usually set the compound to 29-1/2, even using inserts.
RonA
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