How should I be cleaning my precision rifle?

[richthe1]

Right now, the products I’m using are as follows:

Cleaning Rod:
Dewey

Guide:
Tipton Universal Bore Guide (soon to be AI bore guide)

Solvent
Ballistol
(I currently don’t use any copper solvent)

Jag, Patches, and Brush
Generic Poke-style jag, Generic Patches, Generic Brush

I use the cleaning procedure Ryan Cleckner recommends in this video, except I do not include the copper solvent step and use a poke-style jag:



Should I be including a copper solvent step?

I just purchased an AI, and I saw the manual recommended CLP 16 and Shooter’s choice bore cleaner, among other products. Would I be wrong to keep using Ballistol? Also, the manual also said that “a conservative recommendation for the necessary number of passes [with the wet brush] is one pass for every 3-4 rounds shot”. That seems kind of high to me and I don’t want to damage the barrel by over cleaning.

Any cleaning tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Qwkcrss]

I've heard very good things about bore tech products. Still wanting to try the stuff out

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

You need a bore guide. I clean in two steps most of the time. I soak with a carbon softener for a few hours, brush with brass brush, patch out, check for copper by soaking with a copper remover then patch out to look for color(blue). If it's present I soak again with copper remover, then brush and patch out again. check again for copper.
The main thing is clean regularly. Playing catch up invites using extreme measures which most don't know how to implement.

 

[richthe1]

You need a bore guide. I clean in two steps most of the time. I soak with a carbon softener for a few hours, brush with brass brush, patch out, check for copper by soaking with a copper remover then patch out to look for color(blue). If it's present I soak again with copper remover, then brush and patch out again. check again for copper.
The main thing is clean regularly. Playing catch up invites using extreme measures which most don't know how to implement.

Thanks! Just edited my post. I do use a bore guide, just forgot to mention it. I will have to look up carbon softener, honestly haven’t heard of that before.
How often would you say regularly is? When you clean, does it take you a certain number of rounds to get back to your zero and your velocity before cleaning?

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

There is no such thing as a carbon remover. The chemicals soften it then a brush breaks up what was softened. Depending on caliber I clean from 20-100 rounds. Depends on caliber and the age of the barrel. Big fast boomers, over bore cartridges sooner, slow moderate case capacity to bore cases maybe 100 rounds. The 308 would fit in that category.
Most of the time one shot to get back to normal for most applications. If I'm testing I usually put 5 down range. Not so much to tune up the barrel but to get me tuned up.

 

[Carlos Danger]

With regards to copper removal, is removing ALL copper a detriment? I guess I'm referring to the small amounts that deposit themselves into small "imperfections" within the length of the barrel. I've heard of barrel break in procedures that are supposed to allow you to reach a sort of happy medium or equilibrium between not much and too much.

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

Premium quality barrels don't require break in. What you're doing is smoothing out the reamer marks from the chamber reamer cutting the leade angle in the throat. A slight copper wash in the grooves doesn't affect accuracy but I'd keep an eye on it. Copper on top of the lands will continue to build up causing problems. That's where there is the greatest pressure on the bullet jacket. The bullet only touches the barrel on top of the lands, about 40-50% in the middle of the groove and the base upsets to form a gas seal.

 

[brianf]

^^^^
I’m waiting for the:

never clean

no brass brush only nylon, because brass will destroy your barrel

no brush at all

never clean it all the way down/bare barrel

Cried to chime in.

 

[richthe1]

It’s interesting to hear everyone’s thoughts and differing opinions. I was watching this Snipers Hide video this afternoon and Frank said 1,000-1,500 rounds for his 308 and uses a nylon brush. The video is 6yrs old, though.

 

[brianf]

Nope your correct..there are more opinions that grains of sand on the beach.

Benchrest guys have one way
F class guys another
Guys who shoot steel another

And the list goes on

Same as breaking in a barrel

 

[Doctorwho1138]

I didn’t break in any of my AI barrels. I do for my ARs though. I use bore tech copper remover, ballistol, with a copper brush and jags. Been thinking about switching to nylon but heard been reading it doesn’t clean very well. Getting a solid cleaning regime down is hard because there is absolutely no consensus. Following this thread. I think X-ring on you tube explains a lot about cleaning and i follow what he does because it made sense to me. But he also does a barrel break in. I haven’t and my barrels are way more accurate than I am.

 

[want2learn]

Perhaps you might be interested in this (I copied this from Benchmark Barrels website):

"Recommended Barrel Break-in Procedure:

1. -Shoot and clean after each shot for 8 rounds - clean with a proven copper solvent*
   
   
2. -After the first 8 rounds, clean after every 3-5 shot group for 4 groups - clean with a proven copper solvent*
   
   
3. -Follow your normal cleaning regimen after the break-in process.
   

* We find Bore Tech Eliminator to be an excellent choice, but most copper solvents are sufficient. FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE FOR USE OF THEIR PRODUCT!! "

 

[hafejd30]

My method is

(2) patches bore tech eliminator
(10) brush strokes with nylon brush
Let sit 5-10 minutes
(1) patch bore tech eliminator
(2) dry patches
(1) patch butches gun oil
(2) dry patches

The above I believe I got from GA Precision years ago

That’s what I do. Right or wrong it comes out good. Borescope shows it works.

My savage barrels get a bore snake. Sometimes I drop it in the sand and don’t bother to wipe it off before running it through the barrel. Cause I’m starting with a barrel that resembles a threaded drain pipe so wtf does it matter!!!

I don’t do break in. I have done it on a couple high end barrels and haven’t on others and have not noticed a difference to convince be to continue doing it

 

[Brazo]

whats the butches bore shine do at the end, corrosion resistance?

 

[hafejd30]

whats the butches bore shine do at the end, corrosion resistance?

I edited it. Not sure why I had that in mind. I just run a patch of butches gun oil before a couple dry patches. Ya just a bit of added protection. Do I really need it, probably not. Doesn’t hurt tho

 

[mcm308]

My gun liked to roll dirty. Was always more accurate and tighter groups with a fouled barrel. When I shot often, I left it fouled. I knew next time out to the range, first shot was lights out. When I did clean, I used Sweets 7.62 copper solvent. And if I knew I wasn't shooting for a bit, Id clean and oil. After a little break in session, just send it.

 

[Brazo]

I edited it. Not sure why I had that in mind. I just run a patch of butches gun oil before a couple dry patches. Ya just a bit of added protection. Do I really need it, probably not. Doesn’t hurt tho

Thanks brother, makes sense

 

[Sniperwannabee]

Haha I just use a bore snake

 

[Doctorwho1138]

Haha I just use a bore snake

i admit to using a bore snake with my ARs but not my precision rifles just the way I do things. Do love my 223/556 bore snake though!!

 

[GMZ]

I use Bore Tech Eliminator and just follow the directions on the bottle, quick and easy.

 

[loveha]

I don't like Bore Tech. Every single time I go to their website for one thing I end up with a cart full that ends up costing me ten times more than what I planned on spending.

As far as cleaning, I think we all end up with our own methods. For me I do the following.

Run three wet patches.
Wet bristle brush till satisfied. Generally three or four times up and down.
Let it sit for a bit.
Wet patch till clean.
Couple dry patches.
Maybe I'll run an oiled patch through, but if I'm shooting it again soon I don't bother.

 

[moosemeat]

My factory barreled FN SPR settles down from a clean barrel in about 10 rounds, gets it's best accuracy around 150 and goes south about 250. I clean at 200 rounds. Between that I'll run a patch of clp down it, brush a few strokes, and patch out.
Deep cleaning starts with GM Top Engine Cleaner (TEC) and I let it soak for a few minutes. Then brush 10 to 20 strokes. Patch out. Another shot of TEC and 10 strokes and patch out. Then Montana Xtreme Copper Killer, let soak 15 minutes, brush, then wet patches of Xtreme, dry patch and check for copper. If it's good run a patch of clp through it, dry patch and done.
It works for me. This is a factory chrome lined barrel that is a little looser and rougher than what I assume a AI barrel is. Mind you when I say accuracy goes south at 200+ I mean it will no longer hold the X on a f class target. I came up with this process because I developed a carbon ring from under cleaning and accuracy went south bad and pressure went north. I find the CLP helps keep the carbon down and the bore paste put away.

 

[BadAccountant]

My gun liked to roll dirty. Was always more accurate and tighter groups with a fouled barrel. When I shot often, I left it fouled. I knew next time out to the range, first shot was lights out. When I did clean, I used Sweets 7.62 copper solvent. And if I knew I wasn't shooting for a bit, Id clean and oil. After a little break in session, just send it.

My SIL has an old Ruger 77 in .243 that she brought over. Nice rifle, good heavy barrel, and though Ruger decided to ditch the mechanical ejector, it's still a solid shooter.

After I installed pillars in the walnut stock and bedded the thing, it was still not shooting the way I though it should. Turns out that is needs to be absolutely FILTHY with copper to shoot well. About 15 rounds in, groups started to tighten.

 

[tashle1]

Another vote for Bore tech Eliminator. I use that and Montana Extreme Copper Cream and Copper Killer when necessary. The Eliminator works very well and is very mild on the nose.

 

[Dthomas3523]

I soak barrels. Takes all the hard arm work out. And I use a drill when brushing. Clean after long shooting session, or after every match. So that keeps me from every going more than 300rnds or so before cleaning. My method:

Vice barrel/barreled action vertically and plug muzzle with foam ear plug with bucket under.

Fill barrel with clr and let soak for 1-2hrs. Drain

Patch dry

Run nylon brush with chosen solvent back and forth with a drill. Minute or so back and forth is plenty

patch dry

Fill with boretech copper solvent and let sit 1-2hrs

patch dry

Nylon brush again

Patch dry and make sure chamber is clean and oil/solvent free

Total time spent actually cleaning is less than 10min and the barrels look factory new with borescope.

 

[Dthomas3523]

I'm going on 500 rounds on a Savage 6.5cm. My cleaning routine is to shove a patch wrapped around an undersized brush saturated in Breakfree CLP and keep changing it out until it comes out clean. I do it after every session. The gun is consistent .5 MOA.

Cleaning is highly over rated imo.

VooDoo

How many barrels have you burned out with your cleaning method? How many barrels have you burned out with a more squeaky clean cleaning method? On average, which method did the barrels last longer?

If you can’t answer those questions, then your statement on cleaning being overrated has no value.

 

[GetReal]

Talking bout cleaning guns....its like discussing religion.

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

Less is more. IF my rifle is happy (small groups), I'm happy.
BUT, it's a free country (for now) so do what makes you happy.

 

[Newbie2020]

I soak barrels. Takes all the hard arm work out. And I use a drill when brushing. Clean after long shooting session, or after every match. So that keeps me from every going more than 300rnds or so before cleaning. My method:

Vice barrel/barreled action vertically and plug muzzle with foam ear plug with bucket under.

Fill barrel with clr and let soak for 1-2hrs. Drain

Patch dry

Run nylon brush with chosen solvent back and forth with a drill. Minute or so back and forth is plenty

patch dry

Fill with boretech copper solvent and let sit 1-2hrs

patch dry

Nylon brush again

Patch dry and make sure chamber is clean and oil/solvent free

Total time spent actually cleaning is less than 10min and the barrels look factory new with borescope.

I really like the look of this method. Can I sub Hoppes Copper solvent for the Boretech (Only because that’s what I currently have)?

I no longer use the highly corrosive high ammonia type copper solvents.

 

[loveha]

A solvent is a solvent. Pick your poison, just don't drink it.

 

[Surly]

Wipe-Out by Sharp Shoot R’ Precision Products is all you need for copper and powder fouling. Doesn’t hurt your barrel. No scrubbing, no bs. It works and can leave it in your barrel for 24hrs. No harsh chemicals needed. It is the shit.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Cleckner is at the top three of the folks I listen to (along with Frank, and myself) when it comes down to firearms.

The first thing I did after viewing that video of his regarding cleaning was to order three Parker-Hale Jags in 22, 6mm, and 30 cal dimensions, and I am abandoning the nylon brush-only technique (Dave Tooley convinced me). I use Carbon Fiber rods because they don't acquire kinks like metallic rods do (a properly sized rod and rod guide tip will prevent bore contact except when there's a rod kink). My solvents are Hoppe's products. My oils and grease are Lucas.

Ryan's reasoning about how to use the various implements and products for the cleaning process is very insightful. There are still some products and implements I use differently, but I would be crazy to contradict his ways as any sort of an instruction.

You listen to Ryan and Frank, and you've got enough to get it done very, very well.

Greg

 

[Rocketmandb]

I use Bore Tech Eliminator as well. It pulls double duty on both carbon and copper. Though not exceptionally good with copper, for standard cleaning it's good enough that by the time it knocks the carbon out, the copper is all or mostly gone.

- I'll start by removing the brake so I can clean separately - and also so it doesn't get gunk on patches I run through, which gives a false sense of how dirty the barrel is.
- Next I run a couple very wet patches through, then I let the solvent sit in the barrel for a bit to help loosen things up.
- Then I run a nylon brush through a number of times - a lot of coppered (blue) solvent will flow out the end of the barrel
- Then alternate wet and dry patches until the barrel is clean to my satisfaction.
- Lastly, dry patches to remove remaining solvent

I've also played a little with Bore Tech's Bore Paste during the process. It cleans the barrel out in a hurry, but I'm worried that it's too abrasive.

For my brakes, I drop each in an old pill bottle with a 50/50 solution of Bore Tech's Carbon Remover and water. I let it sit, shaking it every so often. After a while, I pull it out and clean with nylon brushes until most the carbon is gone.

 

[deersniper]

^^^^
I’m waiting for the:

never clean

no brass brush only nylon, because brass will destroy your barrel

no brush at all

never clean it all the way down/bare barrel

Cried to chime in.

No brush. Let wipe out sit for 24 hours then patch out. Every 300-1000 rounds. All suppressed

 

[Torchy]

I use Bore Tech Eliminator as well. It pulls double duty on both carbon and copper. Though not exceptionally good with copper, for standard cleaning it's good enough that by the time it knocks the carbon out, the copper is all or mostly gone.

- I'll start by removing the brake so I can clean separately - and also so it doesn't get gunk on patches I run through, which gives a false sense of how dirty the barrel is.
- Next I run a couple very wet patches through, then I let the solvent sit in the barrel for a bit to help loosen things up.
- Then I run a nylon brush through a number of times - a lot of coppered (blue) solvent will flow out the end of the barrel
- Then alternate wet and dry patches until the barrel is clean to my satisfaction.
- Lastly, dry patches to remove remaining solvent

I've also played a little with Bore Tech's Bore Paste during the process. It cleans the barrel out in a hurry, but I'm worried that it's too abrasive.

For my brakes, I drop each in an old pill bottle with a 50/50 solution of Bore Tech's Carbon Remover and water. I let it sit, shaking it every so often. After a while, I pull it out and clean with nylon brushes until most the carbon is gone.

I use all Boretech stuff too and this post is very accurate with all it's information.

Also for jags and rods, I used Boretech. The reason why is that all the metal is aluminum(the rods are coated so no metal to metal). That is important because brass can give you a false positive of blue on your patches. You'll think you're taking copper out but it's just your female threads of your rod and your jag doing it. Every time I use a rod, with each patch I can see the blue get fainter until it is completely gone (if that's my goal). Personally I don't remove all copper.

 

[Rocketmandb]

I use all Boretech stuff too and this post is very accurate with all it's information.

Also for jags and rods, I used Boretech. The reason why is that all the metal is aluminum(the rods are coated so no metal to metal). That is important because brass can give you a false positive of blue on your patches. You'll think you're taking copper out but it's just your female threads of your rod and your jag doing it. Every time I use a rod, with each patch I can see the blue get fainter until it is completely gone (if that's my goal). Personally I don't remove all copper.

Boretech is one of those companies that just does things right.