I’m a total noob to the world of building a bolt gun, I would like some information on the steps of building one. How much would you spend on a gunsmith?
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How to build a bolt action?
- Thread starter Ed Compton
- Start date
If you can get and use a torque wrench, barrel vise, and action wrench, you can put the pieces together yourself. Start buy buying a modern action that gunsmiths make shouldered prefit barrels for. They make them for the actions that reliably hold tolerances so tight that the gunsmith doesn't need the action in the shop to make a barrel for it. Offhand the actions that prefit barrels are readily available for include Impact 737R, Bighorn Origin and TL3, Terminus Zeus, American Rifle Company actions, Curtis Axiom, Kelby Atlas, Defiance Rukus/Tenacity, and maybe a few others that I forgot.
Once you have the action, order a prefit barrel in your chosen caliber, a trigger (I'd suggest TriggerTech Diamond), and a chassis or stock with installed mini chassis. For chassis, KRG, MDT, and XLR make good chassis. For stocks with mini chassis, you'd be talking about Manners. For barrels, I've had great results ordering prefit barrels from Patriot Valley Arms, Long Rifles Inc., and Southern Precision Rifles (bugholes.com). There are other shops making prefit barrels, but those three are the ones that I have bought barrels from.
To put together, You clamp the barrel in a barrel vise then use the torque wrench and action wrench to screw the barrel onto the action and torque it down. I've found torquing barrels to 60 ft. lbs. works just fine but YMMV. Then you install your muzzle brake (assuming you had the muzzle threaded 5/8x24 which you should), I'd suggest the Patriot Valley Arms brakes, I use them because they work well and don't blast the shooter and neighbors with dirt and gas. Install trigger usually with punch and mallet, then use the torque wrench to bolt the barreled action into the chassis and your ready to go after attaching whatever optic you choose.
Once you have the action, order a prefit barrel in your chosen caliber, a trigger (I'd suggest TriggerTech Diamond), and a chassis or stock with installed mini chassis. For chassis, KRG, MDT, and XLR make good chassis. For stocks with mini chassis, you'd be talking about Manners. For barrels, I've had great results ordering prefit barrels from Patriot Valley Arms, Long Rifles Inc., and Southern Precision Rifles (bugholes.com). There are other shops making prefit barrels, but those three are the ones that I have bought barrels from.
To put together, You clamp the barrel in a barrel vise then use the torque wrench and action wrench to screw the barrel onto the action and torque it down. I've found torquing barrels to 60 ft. lbs. works just fine but YMMV. Then you install your muzzle brake (assuming you had the muzzle threaded 5/8x24 which you should), I'd suggest the Patriot Valley Arms brakes, I use them because they work well and don't blast the shooter and neighbors with dirt and gas. Install trigger usually with punch and mallet, then use the torque wrench to bolt the barreled action into the chassis and your ready to go after attaching whatever optic you choose.
1. Are those actions all Remington 700 pattern?
2. Would I need to contact the barrel manufacturer and ask for a barrel made for the specific brand of action?
3. I’m looking for something lightweight, so do you have any opinions on carbon fiber barrels? I’ve heard good things about them.
4. Is 5/8 x 24 the standard muzzle thread for all breaks/barrels?
Yes
Yes
Just installed one, let you know
Maybe
The actions listed all have the Remington pattern, though not all are push feed, but basically they fit the Remington style chassis/stock, use a Remington Clone trigger
Each individual action needs a prefit barrel for that specific action. Tell the barrel maker which action you own.
Never used a carbon wrapped barrel but just installed on a rifle for for my wife. Waiting for the scope rings to arrive to finish putting it together. Beware, not just any old barrel vice will work with a carbon barrel.
5/8 x 24 is the threading for most of the popular Centerfire calibers, such as the 6 Dasher, 6 Creedmoor, 6.5 Creedmoor and .308 and plenty of others. The chart below gives the standards. It’s a minefield, so tell your barrel maker what caliber you are going to shoot and they can tell you which muzzle thread to request.
| Application | Indexing Surface | Caliber Usage (XX.XX = mm) | Thread & Socket Drawings |
| Rimfire | Muzzle / Shoulder | ≤.220 (≤5.59) | ½-28 - Thread & Socket |
| Centerfire Pistol & Revolver | Muzzle / Shoulder | 5.355 (59.02) | ½-28 - Thread & Socket |
| Centerfire Pistol & Revolver | Muzzle | >.355 / ≤.395 ($9.02 / ≤10.03) | %16-24 - Thread & Socket |
| Centerfire Rifle | Muzzle / Shoulder | 5.225 (≤5.72) | ½-28 - Thread & Socket |
| Centerfire Rifle | Muzzle / Shoulder | >225 / 5.305 (>5.72 / 57.75) | ⅝-24 - Thread & Socket |
| Centerfire Rifle | Muzzle / Shoulder | >.305 / 5.450 (>7.75 / ≤11.43) | 11/16-24 - Thread & Socket |
| Centerfire Rifle | Shoulder | >.305 / s.450 (>7.75 / ≤11.43) | M18 X 1.5 RH - Thread & Socket |
| Centerfire Rifle | Muzzle / Shoulder | >.305 / s.450 (57.75/ 511.43) | ¾-24 - Thread & Socket |
Can’t really recommend on over the other but this one is the type that would work, there are quite a few others that also work. As long as they clamp only the steel portion of the barrel.
https://www.aeroprecisionusa.com/solus-barrel-vise-kit.
We own a Viper barrel vice. Works great on steel barrels. I highly recommend it but NOT for carbon barrels. Frankly, for your first build, I would recommend an all steel barrel anyway. Eliminates a pitfall. At the cost, you don’t want to mess up a carbon fiber barrel.
There are many makers of barrel vises, this is the one that I have, the Short Action Customs (SAC) modular barrel vise:
shortactioncustoms.com
It's on the upper end of the price range, but the less expensive SAC Bravo barrel vise is also excellent.
If you're installing a shouldered prefit barrel and you don't intend to torque it up to 100 ft. lbs. or more, you can use a less robust barrel vise, like the Viper which you would clamp the barrel using something like leather between the metal surfaces of the vise and the barrel.
www.brownells.com
5/8x24 threading for muzzle brakes is almost a defacto standard for precision rifles. We're all shooting relatively heavy barrels with plenty of metal for that threading. Using a larger caliber brake for smaller calibers is only minimally reducing the recoil reduction, so I use 30 cal brakes on my 223 and 6.5 rifles also.
Modular Barrel Vise – Full Kit
Includes: Modular Barrel Vise, ARCA mounting base, 5 bushings (.865”-.870”, .925”-.930”, 1.000”, 1.200”, 1.250”), and a bushing stand Note: The Vise, Bushings, and ARCA Mounting base may have marks or discolorations from the machining and/or annodizing processes. This is normal, and by no...
shortactioncustoms.com
It's on the upper end of the price range, but the less expensive SAC Bravo barrel vise is also excellent.
If you're installing a shouldered prefit barrel and you don't intend to torque it up to 100 ft. lbs. or more, you can use a less robust barrel vise, like the Viper which you would clamp the barrel using something like leather between the metal surfaces of the vise and the barrel.
VIPER BENCH REST BARREL VISE | Brownells
Check out the VIPER BENCH REST available Online at Brownells Today and many more Fixtures & Blocks products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.
www.brownells.com
5/8x24 threading for muzzle brakes is almost a defacto standard for precision rifles. We're all shooting relatively heavy barrels with plenty of metal for that threading. Using a larger caliber brake for smaller calibers is only minimally reducing the recoil reduction, so I use 30 cal brakes on my 223 and 6.5 rifles also.
Last thought Ed, Get an Action wrench specifically for your action. An action wrench for a Curtis with a three lug action and a 60 degree bolt throw will not work with a two lug action and a 90 degree bolt throw. Also, a left hand action wrench won’t work with a right handed action and vice versa.
If you're doing your first build, I wouldn't get that creative. Go with a lightweight option of a very popular action manufacturer. For instance, an Impact NBK action or an alpine cut Lone Peak Fuzion if you're looking for a lighter weight hunting rifle. Acquire a Proof carbon fiber prefit for it or a Patriot Valley Arms prefit in one of the lighter contours he offers if you want steel. Then just pick a trigger for it and a stock/chassis.
I have another question: what is y’all’s opinion of the Savage 110 actions? Proof makes prefit barrels for them and the actions are about $600 not $1400 like the Impacts or LPAs.
Don't do that to yourself. Savage actions have major reliability issues. If you want a sub $1,000 actions to build on look at Aero Solus, ARC Coup De Grace, and Bighorn Origin for the R700 footprint (all of those are about $900). If even those are a little pricy it wouldn't be the worst thing in the world if you built on a Tikka action.
I have an ARC CDG and agree that any action you mentioned would be better than building on a Savage. Sort of gold plating a pig's ear thing.
But, I would add Mack Bros to the list of reasonable priced actions
But, I would add Mack Bros to the list of reasonable priced actions
Also, would y’all consider the barrel to be more important for accuracy than the bolt/action? I.E. is it better to spend money on the action or the barrel, or keep it pretty even?
the barrel is all the accuracy
the action just determines how nice it feels to run the bolt
that being said. running a smooth action that has a accurate barrel is great. something like a Zermatt Origin that can run normal prefits, an HLR lug for TL3 barrels, and every boltface size aside from a Lapua
no need to waste money on an Impact
the action just determines how nice it feels to run the bolt
that being said. running a smooth action that has a accurate barrel is great. something like a Zermatt Origin that can run normal prefits, an HLR lug for TL3 barrels, and every boltface size aside from a Lapua
no need to waste money on an Impact
How much are the Origins? On Zermatt’s website they say a deposit of $1000 is required before shipping, but nothing about the full price
Unless I'm misreading something, Origins are $900 for short actions and $1,000 for medium / long actions.
I'll echo what the other guy said about Savages in that they aren't as high quality. Spend a few $$ more and get something nice. Not trying to be a gun snob, but if you spend the $$ to get something you know was made right, you'll never have to question whether the action is the problem if you're having problems. You're also going to run into using a barrel nut to get correct headspace which also may not be something you want to mess with on your first build.
For a first bolt gun I'd keep it simple. Get a high quality action that takes prefits and doesn't break the bank. Getting one that has a swappable bolt face that allows you to change from a normal 308 size to a magnum or 223 allows for future growth and caliber options with the same gun.
The Bighorn Origin, ARC Coup De Grace, and Aero Solus check all of those boxes.
That being said, I would recommend a Bighorn Origin for a first build. The shouldered prefits are pretty easy to find and they're a great value for the money. They've been around for a while so they've established themselves in the shooting world.
The ARC Coup De Grace would normally be my first recommendation, but it has a trigger hangar that could be annoying to deal with if you go with a budget chassis like the KRG Bravo. Not something you might want to deal with on your first custom build. The Aero Solus is a solid option but would be my third choice among these three. It also has a trigger hangar but is a little smaller than the hanger on the CDG and it doesn't conflict on the KRG Bravo. I can't speak to how it fits in other chassis.
For what it's worth I have owned a three of those actions. They're all great options for a first build.
I’m seeing a “pivot” function on that coup de grace action, what is that? Just something that’s going to break? I tried looking on YouTube but didn’t find anything
The CDG action offers two bolt handle configurations. The conventional configuration has a fixed bolt handle and primary extraction is by the conventional way of opening the bolt bears on a camming surface that provides primary extraction. The pivoting bolt handle configuration has a pivoting bolt handle bearing on the receiver and providing primary extraction. The pivoting bolt handle provides much more powerful extraction so you won't have a problem with sticky cases or the like. I have an ARC Archimedes action and the pivoting bolt handle has very light bolt lift because opening the bolt isn't also extracting the case. It works well and with the CDG, you have a choice of which way you want it.
I think the pivot vs fixed is just about when the primary extraction of the cartridge is happening. So with the "pivot" option, it's happening when you pull the bolt to the rear. Whereas with the fixed option, the primary extraction is happening when you raise the bolt.
