Gunsmithing How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

Got them...thanks! I received the bt15 instead of the needed bt17. I should have the correct rail from Triad in a couple of days. Bits will be ready to go out again soon after.
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

SPECR if you still have the bits I would like them. PM me and I will shoot you my address. LMK either way so I can start looking if you dont have them. PM sent.
Thanks
Rad
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

All three rifle done without a hitch. A couple of notes
1. I used a drill press to drill the pilot hole then flipped the pilot bit over in the counterbore bit (shankd down). This made a great guide to keep the counterbore straight for the barrel channel counterbore hole without wallowing it out. I just used a hand drill for that and let the "pilot" drill bit be a guide. Worked great.
2. I used a 1/4 drill bit from the inside to open the inside of the pilot hole up for the "nut". Then flipped it over and used a bit just large enough for the screw to open up the gelcoat side. Just made a smaller external hole. Looked better to me.
3. When you epoxy the nuts in tape off everything and don't use quick set marine tex. It dries to fast trust me
smile.gif
. Also remove as much extra as possible with q tips. I spent more time sanding one stock than it took me to all three holes:(.
4. I alread had flush cups where the second stud should go. I already had BT 15s and BT17s laying around from other rifles just couldn't get them to fit the way I wanted to. Then I remembered a set of Badger rails fot the Ar10 Stabilizer forend they make. Hole are 2 inches a part and they are flat on the bottom. They fit perfect between the existing holes and worked out great.

Thanks for the great idea and instructions.
Bits are ready for the next guy. Please pm as I may not check this thread everyday.
Rad
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

Id like to get in line next if possible. My parts should arrive in a couple of days. I can give the tools back to 427Cobra as he is a local friend unless they are requested by someone else. Tommyquest, Ill PM you for the shipping info unless someone else has it.
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

I am not going to need these for about 2-3 weeks as I am waiting for my rifle to come in. That said it is a new FN A2 SPR with McM A4. Is there not a rail out there that is a "bolt on" to the existing studs? I mean is it possible to just remove the sling studs and use the existing hardware without having to drill the stock?
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

I have a BT17 on the way for my medalist. The forward sling slugs are off center to the extent that I wouldn't want to use the holes. Would you guys recommend filling with Devcon and redrilling nearby or Just moving to a whole new location, or trying to use one and not the other, etc?
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

Tag as is was awesome for Cobra to let everyone use his bits, and great to see this type of community effort to get everyone hooked up.

Once the wife makes a decision I will hop in line.
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

Hey guys has anyone installed this rail in a factory tikka stock? This is the only thread I could find about this install and im not sure if it would be as straight forward as the McM.
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

I made a counter bore bit from old 3/4" paddle bit.
Heated a .223 open base bullit till lead softend and stuck the point of bit in it than tapped it a little with hammer.
Carefull because molten lead will be displaced on your bench.
Not pretty but it made a decent counterbore...

001-2.jpg
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

For those of you that have the stock used on the Remington 5R (a HS Precision stock with aluminum blocks) I will share with you the method I ended up using. I figured that 427Cobra's method would work, but as the first picture shows, I couldn't really use the forward most stud to anchor the rail as the length of the rail was about 3/8" off the forearm of the stock:

twostuds.jpg


My friend Chris (aka nauta here on the Hide) and I realized that the design of the rail is such that we could anchor the rail with the forward stud and hold it into place with the rear stud in a manner that made it perfectly center:

fitup.png


Also, as this picture shows, it still allows the forward swivel stud to be used to for a sling with the bipod mounted (there's enough room):

alignment.jpg


Additionally, the fasteners and hardware contained in the BT1517 kit isn't needed. From Home Depot you will need a 10/32 fastener that can be turned with a 1/8 allen wrench along with an accompanying nut and washer. The fastener will be needed to be cut to length with a dremel tool (I had to cut 5 threads with the length I chose). Also, a high strength steel or titanium bit is needed to cut through the stock. Here is the hole drilled into the stock using the rail as my pilot (take extreme care to make sure you are vertical and aligned):

pilothole.jpg


As you can see, it's really close to the fastener used for the adjacent swivel stud. Because of this, I opted not to use the hardware provided in the BT1517 kit and instead decided to use a longer 10/32 fastener (same size as the one in the kit) with a washer and hex nut to compress the rail against the stock.

I put some tape over the new hole and then punched a hole in the tape with a 1/2" drill bit (this was just slightly larger than the washer I had, goal is so the washer just barely fits inside). I milled out just enough material to give me room to put in the washer with some super glue adhesive and the nut (maybe 3/8 - 1/2", or one quick push on the power drill). Before I put the glue and washer in, I used a 1/2" spade bit with my hand to ensure a smooth surface for the washer (take care not to get glue in the fastener hole):

washer.jpg


Since I had to run to Home Depot to get the new fasteners and then cut them with a dremel, the glue had plenty of time to dry. Don't make the mistake of trying to use a drill to screw in the fasteners as you will likely just strip it beyond use. It should go in nice and smooth using a 1/8" allen wrench.

To get the fastener onto the nut, the fastener was screwed up and fastener was attached onto the nut by just by two or three threads from the top (do the best job you can do, you might need a set of pliers). Then, the fastener was backout slightly until the nut was flush against the washer. Afterwards, a screwdriver was held in place on the side to prevent the nut from turning while the fastener was driven in on the other end (having a second person helps on this step). When tight, I had ~ 2-3 threads of protrusion, which is about what you want:

nut.jpg


If you look close, you can see that the washer just fits. Use a hex key or screw driver to push it in nice and even.

Also important, no thread protrusion into the barrel channel:

channel.jpg


The rail was nice and snug. I can assure you, no additional epoxy is needed to cover up the new fastener. Like Ratbert, Nauta and I do not see any real advantage of doing this. It takes up time and it makes this installation permanent. Although I can't think of a reason I would want to remove the rail now, perhaps I might want to remove the rail later on and I have a way of doing it (I could easily reinstall it too). Also, with the method I have used, I have minimized the amount of material removed from the stock or the weakening I have done on the stock's main axis.

Perhaps as a final step, if you can only find stainless steel colored fasteners, you could color over the top of the fastener's head with a black permanent marker. That's good enough for me because I'm not going to waste time painting a fastener.

Here is the finished result (I know my bench is messy and I apologize for not assembling the rifle back together, but the wife was out and I have two todlers running around):

complete.jpg


Hope this helps anyone trying to do this on their 5R.
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

Very well done. All you got to do is go out and have some fun with it. May i suggest buying the spiked feet since they will grip onto anything. I have not used my spiked feet yet but working on it hopefully on monday
smile.gif



Heath
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bob L. Swagger</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are these bits still floating around? I'm thinking of upgrading to the atlas...</div></div>

They are. I have them, PM me your address. I need to post my work, but I mounted a second atlas rail to a manners T5 mini-chassis. Work done pretty much the same as cobra427 except that I skipped on the adhesive ... I just don't believe it's necessary. I'll try to dig up the pics and post my work.
 
Re: How To Install BT17 Rail for Atlas Bipod in McM A5

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LT JGB</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bob L. Swagger</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are these bits still floating around? I'm thinking of upgrading to the atlas...</div></div>

They are. I have them, PM me your address. I need to post my work, but I mounted a second atlas rail to a manners T5 mini-chassis. Work done pretty much the same as cobra427 except that I skipped on the adhesive ... I just don't believe it's necessary. I'll try to dig up the pics and post my work.

</div></div>


Sweet! I pm'ed you my shipping info.. Just need to get the stuff from accu-shot.

Thanks!