Suppressors How to Suppress AR 5.56 the Most

[joe777]

That makes sense to me. Somewhat re-thinking the plan.

Found some dealers that can get an AEM5 though.

Anyone got data on much you can tune down the at-ear dB levels? The polonium seems like a decent option at this point but I wonder where all that back pressure goes though. Assuming the BCG takes a beating.

 

[CaptArab]

I have one of the quietest possible AR-15 builds (H4, buffer, LMT delayed bolt, 11.5 Middy with Superlative AGB, Nomad L). IMO it's not worth building an optimized tuned upper with how good the best flow through cans are these days.

I'd just buy a vltor a5 12.5, carbine or middy, lightweight hi flow can, and be done.

 

[joe777]

What are the best flow through cans?

I only have numbers to compare, and unfortunately it looks like the PEW data is hard to compare to since most of it is with a 10" barrel and I have 16, 18 and 20 inch lengths.

 

[Yondering]

That makes sense to me. Somewhat re-thinking the plan.

Found some dealers that can get an AEM5 though.

Anyone got data on much you can tune down the at-ear dB levels? The polonium seems like a decent option at this point but I wonder where all that back pressure goes though. Assuming the BCG takes a beating.

The BCG only takes a beating if it’s overgassed, meaning you didn’t tune it right. Tuning it correctly restricts the gas going to it, so it’s not trying to exert high forces and beat itself up; that delays unlocking until cycling is similar to a well tuned unsuppressed condition.

You will always have back pressure bleeding off back through the bore once the case starts to extract, that’s just a fact of life with suppressors, but the timing of when that extraction happens is controlled through proper tuning.

 

[Yondering]

I have one of the quietest possible AR-15 builds (H4, buffer, LMT delayed bolt, 11.5 Middy with Superlative AGB, Nomad L). IMO it's not worth building an optimized tuned upper with how good the best flow through cans are these days.

I'd just buy and vltor a5 12.5, carbine or middy, lightweight hi flow can, and be done.

Nothing with a short 11.5 or 12.5” barrel is “the quietest possible AR build”. Not even close.

 

[E. Bryant]

If you want a quiet AR, start with the longest barrel you're willing to run - that reduces the uncorking pressure and gets the muzzle further from the ear. Run as long of a gas system as possible. Run a large traditional can with good suppression at the muzzle; that basically equates to high flow restriction (AKA back pressure). Run as small of a gas port cross-section as possible while retaining functionally, and understand that this rig won't be a candidate for Internet bragging rights concerning number of rounds between cleaning. Consider additional bolt carrier and/or buffer mass to delay unlocking. A Surefire BCG may be beneficial in delaying unlocking. Definitely don't do anything moronic like use a Bootleg BCG that vents excess gas by your face. Pick a single ammo type that works for the intended purpose, and ruthlessly tune for it.

In short, carefully examine the various attributes of the Mk18 and then do the exact opposite.

 

[Yondering]

In short, carefully examine the various attributes of the Mk18 and then do the exact opposite.

Ha! I like that.

And good point about expecting to clean more often; I don't think that was mentioned before but it's definitely true. Of course since the OP mentioned just a few hundred rounds per year, he can likely just keep it lubed and clean it every few months or so.

 

[Yondering]

That makes sense to me. Somewhat re-thinking the plan.

Found some dealers that can get an AEM5 though.

Anyone got data on much you can tune down the at-ear dB levels? The polonium seems like a decent option at this point but I wonder where all that back pressure goes though. Assuming the BCG takes a beating.

Missed part of this one earlier - I don't know of any before/after tuning dB data online, just that the difference to my own ears and shooters next to me is significant.

Also, beware of some of the snake oil salesmanship out there the past few years saying something like "the backpressure needs to be relieved" or something along those lines, peddling those bleed-off gas blocks. They're one of the biggest farces in this industry right now; ideally you want those combustion gasses (from whence the backpressure comes) to exit through the suppressor. Some of it naturally will exit the chamber as I mentioned earlier, which we try to minimize as much as possible through tuning.

Another point is that regardless of the suppressor, when you have the rifle tuned well for that suppressor and that ammo, you won't have gas in the face. That's what a lot of these flow through or low back pressure cans try to minimize, for applications where the rifle isn't tuned just for the suppressor; that's why you're hearing so much about it but it's not really what applies to a dedicated suppressor host.

 

[E. Bryant]

Flow-through cans shine on rifles that were o
designed for high reliability and are still tuned accordingly - so like 99% of mil/LE stuff. That's the original driver behind the concept, and the fact that this performance carries over to the bulk of civilian rifles is highly appealing to the customer who wants adequate performance without doing any adjustment or modification.

Unfortunately, the obsession over a particularly challenging configuration by a well-known source of 3rd-party test data has resulted in some skewed perception of what might work best on a typical 16" factory carbine, much less on a tuned rifle dedicated towards suppressed use and running commercial-pressure ammo with heavy bullets.

This thread has provided sufficient information to the OP how to accomplish his goals, so now it's time to execute.

 

[joe777]

More like provided sufficient information to have me questioning reality as I know it

From all the reading I've done its looking like a 20" barrel / AEM5 / tuning is the way to go. Or another larger can with tuning.

Some of the Liberty and Griffin cans in the NFAtalk data also appear to do really well on 16" DI guns, getting into the mid 130 dB's.

Huge THANKS for all the information guys.

 

[CaptArab]

I have one of the quietest possible AR-15 builds (H4, buffer, LMT delayed bolt, 11.5 Middy with Superlative AGB, Nomad L). IMO it's not worth building an optimized tuned upper with how good the best flow through cans are these days.

I'd just buy and vltor a5 12.5, carbine or middy, lightweight hi flow can, and be done.

Nothing with a short 11.5 or 12.5” barrel is “the quietest possible AR build”. Not even close.

Muzzle DBs with a giant whale dick of a can like a nomad L, Magnus, Hyperion, etc aren't noticably different with longer barrels.

Ejection port DBs are pretty much the same regardless of barrel length and that's downing out the muzzle. So yeah you could get it quieter with a longer barrel, but then it would be a useless KY long rifle- hardly applicable for what modern ARs are used for so no real return on noise.

So despite your autistic technicalities, for practical purposes what I said is totally correct.

If you had a decimal meter you could keep deep diving into the nerd stuff, but for practical purposes there's really not much there.

I've BTDT - wear plugs if you're planning on shooting - even lite plugs like surefire defenders uncapped or etymotic ER20s (designed for musicians). If you have to shoot something in an emergency or take a deer, it's no biggie. If you want to maximize quiet get a bolt action.

The whole "quietest AR" game is a fools errand for internet dorks.

 

[doubloon]

Some of the quietest rigs tested by an independent group have 16" barrels ... that's not to say they wouldn't be slightly quieter with 20" barrels but whether or not they would be perceptibly quieter for any range of distances is debatable and probably dependent on "tone" ... I *think* low tones bounce less or don't carry as far or maybe the other way around.

5/8/2010	Liberty Suppressors Torch	Remington 7 Snyder Barrel 20"	HSM 55gr	164.43	129.8	34.63	132	156.16
5/8/2010	Liberty Suppressors 30RR (Welded)	POF 16"	HSM 55gr	163.95	128.57	35.38	135.1	155.9
7/29/2017	Griffin Armament SPR / flash hider mount*	Tavor 16"	Tula 55gr	164.2	131.85	32.35	131.8	157.6
5/8/2010	Liberty Suppressors Torch*	S&W MP15 16"	HSM 55gr	163.95	129.24	34.71	132.6	155.9
5/8/2010	Liberty Suppressors 30RR (Monocore)*	S&W MP15 16"	HSM 55gr	163.95	128.37	35.58	129.6	155.9
8/15/2010	Liberty Suppressors Varmiter	AR-15 Bushmaster DI 16"	Federal 55gr	165.2	129.937	35.263	133.8	154
6/11/2011	Form 1 "Mark1Mod0" QD**	Remington 700 16"	Federal P223Q 60gr	168	134.34	33.66	135.5	166.2
5/8/2010	Liberty Suppressors Constitution*	S&W MP15 16"	HSM 55gr	163.95	133.77	30.18	142.4	155.9
7/27/2019	Griffin Armament SPR / flash hider mount*	Tavor 16"	Tula 62gr	165	133.77	31.23	135	158.1
7/31/2010	Thompson Machine Sixteen**	AR-15 DI 20"	Federal 55gr	165.2	133	32.2	137	158.5
8/15/2010	Liberty Suppressors Freedom (.308)*	M16 14.5"	Federal 55gr	166	132.93	33.07	136	158.5
7/31/2010	Thompson Machine Sixteen**	AR-15 DI 20"	Winchester M855 55gr	165.2	133.46	31.74	137.9	157

 

[joe777]

Reporting back after trying a banish 30 gold on my untuned 16" DI/carbine gas/H2 buffer, using 55 grain .223.

I have to say I was impressed with the performance. Shooting in an open field I didn't feel the need to wear ear protection at all. Not sure if this is normal. My right ear felt some discomfort when shooting next to a barn wall 5-10 feet away on my right side. Most of the noise being made sounded like the bullet breaking the sound barrier.

I did catch a blast of gas to my right eye on one shot, somehow it got behind my sunglasses. I'm also using a very loose/generic charging handle. It looked like gas was being dumped down my mag (?) Not sure if that's normal. Pic below, the gas instantly corroded the ammo.

I believe a little tuning would help.

 

[doubloon]

Most of the noise being made sounded like the bullet breaking the sound barrier.

I did catch a blast of gas

Si, fast bullets are loud.

The backwash is one of the costs of entry. You can get a different changing handle or fill the gap to keep some of the gas from hitting you in the face but suppressed semi-autos are simply dirtier to shoot ... it gets in everything and I don't know any way to stop it, best you can do is maybe reduce it.

 

[Yondering]

Yes, tuning is required. You can eliminate all of the gas in the face through tuning, but you will see more evidence of powder gasses on the ammo and ejected brass; just the nature of the beast. It doesn't need to be that bad though; you were obviously dealing with a rifle that was already functioning without a suppressor - as several of us have pointed out, that means with a suppressor the rifle WILL be overgassed, like you discovered.

 

[joe777]

Is it normal to not "need" ear protection for an 8+ inch .30 cal silencer on an 16" AR/556? Trying to gauge performance without having another silencer to compare to.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

Is it normal to not "need" ear protection for an 8+ inch .30 cal silencer on an 16" AR/556? Trying to gauge performance without having another silencer to compare to.

"Need" is subjective, the common statement is that 140db is hearing safe. BUT, hearing damage is cumulative and can happen far below that number if sustained for long periods of time.

Loud Noise Dangers

Loud noise can cause permanent hearing loss. There are ways to protect your hearing. Audiologists can help.

www.asha.org

So, going hunting sure, range time... for how long? Shooting inside enclosed spaces with supersonic ammo that will bounce those sonic cracks right back at you... No.

 

[Yondering]

Is it normal to not "need" ear protection for an 8+ inch .30 cal silencer on an 16" AR/556? Trying to gauge performance without having another silencer to compare to.

As said above, that's somewhat subjective.

In an open field, a quieter AR setup will often feel like I don't need ear pro; it's not until a bit later that I'll sometimes realize my right ear rings a little bit. But for just a shot or two while hunting - I'm completely fine with no ear protection. While it may technically be doing hearing damage, the number of rounds fired has a bearing on the need for ear protection IMO.

On a square range, especially with shooting benches, roofing, other buildings, etc, things start to sound a lot louder even with the exact same setup, and indoors it'll get uncomfortable real quick.

 

[joe777]

Plan now is to order an AEM5 in the hopes of max suppression. So many people out there that say they're the best.

Also going to order a Griffin GP5 direct thread just to have and because they're some what local to me.

I was able to find a few reviews of people saying the flow through suppressors can be somewhat loud which isn't really a downfall imo because it seems like they're designed to solve tuning issues when switching guns.

Any other info or things to consider with this plan are welcome. Was also looking at the Amtac OTB suppressors but couldn't find much info.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

Just understand you are seeking a theoretical perfection. I'm sure you will get good suppression, but understand you may not be able to tell the difference between your setup and most others and may find that although your setup may test better on paper, others may sound better to ears.

I sugest you dig into the stability of the company - will they be here in ten years?, warranty, reputation for customer service and make sure that the mounting system is good.

The testing is a rough estimate at best, you can take the same suppressor and test it on different days, different guns, different ammo, how long since cleaned, is the can cool or screaming hot? Foggy vs dry day?, concrete deck vs woods? So many factors change the results. Trust me, anyone who wants to optimize the results to be the best or worst possible can.

On top of that there are huge incentives for makers, sellers and testers on test results.
We get cans that test well and sound sharp or have nasty back pressure. We have seen tests results that made us scratch our heads with long standing brands with decades of R&D being beat by small shops on their first attempt.

Don't buy based on tests, shoot at the range before you buy.

 

[FuhQ]

Plan now is to order an AEM5 in the hopes of max suppression. So many people out there that say they're the best.

Also going to order a Griffin GP5 direct thread just to have and because they're some what local to me.

I was able to find a few reviews of people saying the flow through suppressors can be somewhat loud which isn't really a downfall imo because it seems like they're designed to solve tuning issues when switching guns.

Any other info or things to consider with this plan are welcome. Was also looking at the Amtac OTB suppressors but couldn't find much info.

You should really consider the Otter Creek OCM5 option. Significantly cheaper (only like $850), easier to acquire (Silencer Shop has them), and lighter weight (less POI shift) and quieter from what they say.

Also, you should look at real world vs. Griffin’s numbers on their website. They’ve been known to fudge pretty heavily to push sales. Lots of dissatisfied one-and-done purchasers on the web, who went to a different brand after their Griffin experience. Same results for Q products.

 

[Bluedog82]

Here is my first impression of the new can Griffin just came out with, a low back pressure suppressor: the Recce 5K. It’s not a flow-through can but I was very impressed with how low the backpressure was. Sounds good and is also short and light.

 

[joe777]

I was able to find an AEM5 cheaper than $850 and my local shop says the distributor has it in stock. Just gonna suck it up and carry the extra weight. If my goal is max suppression (and tone which is probably just as important from what everyone says) there's just no other suppressor that i've came across with the reviews that the AEM5 has.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

Here is my first impression of the new can Griffin just came out with, a low back pressure suppressor: the Recce 5K. It’s not a flow-through can but I was very impressed with how low the backpressure was. Sounds good and is also short and light.

I have an older RECCE 5 and like it a lot. I havent had any issues with the mount, lighter than many of my other cans and nice sound. Never had to use their customer service so no comment there.

 

[FuhQ]

I was able to find an AEM5 cheaper than $850 and my local shop says the distributor has it in stock. Just gonna suck it up and carry the extra weight. If my goal is max suppression (and tone which is probably just as important from what everyone says) there's just no other suppressor that i've came across with the reviews that the AEM5 has.

Well, the Polonium is still the reigning top dog on PEW Science charts for muzzle DB numbers on 5.56, but ok... Whatever you say.

 

[AMGtuned]

You should really consider the Otter Creek OCM5 option. Significantly cheaper (only like $850), easier to acquire (Silencer Shop has them), and lighter weight (less POI shift) and quieter from what they say.

Also, you should look at real world vs. Griffin’s numbers on their website. They’ve been known to fudge pretty heavily to push sales. Lots of dissatisfied one-and-done purchasers on the web, who went to a different brand after their Griffin experience. Same results for Q products.

I would buy a Grifin, LONG before a Q. Better yet, I wouldn't buy a Q. At least Griffin is innovative(suppressors) and sticks to one company making more than cans.

I don't trust anyone's "numbers". It's all data that one needs interpret for themselves. We're all at different altitudes, and that in itself will change it all.

If folks are that concerned, here is the remedy: (1) buy B&K 2209/Larson Davis/whatever, (2) set mic and shoot by it, (3) record your numbers and enjoy your place on top of the internet. You just won it all.

 

[doubloon]

Polonium is still the reigning top dog on PEW Science charts for muzzle DB numbers on 5.56

Seems like there are several rigs within 1dB of each other on the proprietary subjective data site, the Polonium isn't number 1 no matter how I sort the list but I'm not paying for it so that might make a difference.

As with most sources, not every suppressor is tested and not on multiple hosts with different ammo. The untested AEM5 thingamajig may outperform everything else on the proprietary subjective data site but we may never know.

Looking at published data from various sources, a suppressor that "tests the best" on one rig with one type of ammo may not be the "best of the best" on another rig with different ammo.

In the end, most people will not be able to tell the difference between two rigs a couple three four dB apart with similar "tone". Obsessing over 2-3dB is pointless except for dick measuring at the bar or the indoor range.

 

[FuhQ]

Seems like there are several rigs within 1dB of each other on the proprietary subjective data site, the Polonium isn't number 1 no matter how I sort the list but I'm not paying for it so that might make a difference.

As with most sources, not every suppressor is tested and not on multiple hosts with different ammo. The untested AEM5 thingamajig may outperform everything else on the proprietary subjective data site but we may never know.

Looking at published data from various sources, a suppressor that "tests the best" on one rig with one type of ammo may not be the "best of the best" on another rig with different ammo.

In the end, most people will not be able to tell the difference between two rigs a couple three four dB apart with similar "tone". Obsessing over 2-3dB is pointless except for dick measuring at the bar or the indoor range.

That’s funny you say that, because unless something has changed, the Polonium (full-size not the K model) was top dog on the muzzle DB’s on PEW Science. Now, you sound pretty bias towards both OCL and PEW Science, so I’m curious as to your solution for a standardized measuring stick? Between PEW and TBAC, we don’t really have any other unbiased test options out there.

 

[clcustom1911]

@alamo5000 Maximum suppression is my goal - what option is best?

AEM-5 or OCM-5 with Ops Inc #12 brake/collar combo. My Mk12 is stupid quiet.

 

[joe777]

Yes sir.... does anyone know if the OCM-5 has the same internal baffle design as the AEM5?

This'll be going on a 16" 1:9 twist M4 barrel already with an H2 buffer/flat spring/ law tactical folding (adds buffer weight) so I think I'll have great results, might need an adjustable gas block or different gas tube though.

 

[doubloon]

Polonium (full-size not the K model) was top dog on the muzzle DB’s on PEW ... you sound pretty bias towards both OCL and PEW Science ... solution for a standardized measuring stick

I just surfed to the proprietary subjective data site again and I'm looking at the table as I type this comment.

I restricted the data in the table to 5.56 ammunition only and sorted by "Muzzle".

The Maxim Defense DSX is in the top two positions, the plain old Polonium is 3rd but only 1 dB separates it from "#1" and the Polonium-K makes its debut on this list at #10 about 6dB behind the "leader". Like I said, maybe the paid version of the site sorts differently than the free version or maybe I just clicked it wrong.

You'll have to remind me what "OCL" stands for again, I have had an acronym disability (aversion) since I quit NASA a couple three decades ago.

Besides the fact that performance varies betwen platforms, much of the suppressor "experience" will always be subjective.

There will never be an all encompassing and 100% accurate standardized measuring stick beyond raw numbers recorded with the same non-proprietary equipment for specific configurations.

"Science" isn't worth shit unless somebody else can independently reproduce the results, "science" based on proprietary equipment and algorithms like the "Hearing Damage Level™" for an undefined "occasional use" in a unspecified environment is Scientology. Like @AMGtuned said, get a B&K and run some tests.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

Trying to share wisdom, so one more attempt. We can not tell the difference between a few db, and we are most likely to say the nicest tone is the quietest as we have very little accurate concept of "loudness" when they are close together.

Machines "hear" differently than we do, what has the least sound wave to a machine relates to us as what sounds best to a dog, or myself before my higher ranges deteriorated. It is subjective between people and machines are a different species.

Then why do we use these tests? Because we don't have a better method, AND they do have value in context. Before testing we had makers making crazy claims, some were shown to be BS through testing.

So, take the cans in the bottom 5db and see how they sound, but don't make a decision on fractions of 1 db.

And please consider the reliability of the company, warranty and customer service reputation into consideration. Yes the small shops have hacked open good performing cans and copied the designs. That dosn't mean they will support you when it launches into a bullet trap and needs to be rebuilt.

For what it is worth I've been buying suppressors since long before most of today's companies even existed. I have never gotten any incentives from anyone that could sway me and have 17 different suppressors models and have shot at least 100 different models in all. I once thought db testing was highly important like many, they just are not that important.

 

[AMGtuned]

Yes sir.... does anyone know if the OCM-5 has the same internal baffle design as the AEM5?

This'll be going on a 16" 1:9 twist M4 barrel already with an H2 buffer/flat spring/ law tactical folding (adds buffer weight) so I think I'll have great results, might need an adjustable gas block or different gas tube though.

I don't know of its "the same"; in fact I highly doubt it.

But know this: Andrew is legit, you can trust his design.

 

[joe777]

Put in for the AEM5 today.

 

[maker]

@alamo5000 Maximum suppression is my goal - what option is best?

I dont follow commercial stuff, but when I make my cans, I use a "sleeve" tube, around the baffle tube. The expansion chamber is vented into the sleeve area. This lets the hottest, highest pressure gas be vented away from the main baffle stack.and it takes a big load off of the baffles. I've had excellent suppression with this. I just wrap the baffle tube with copper screen wire, filling up the sleeve area. Those filaments do a lot towards reducing the heat and pressure of those gases. By the time they can bounce off of the front of the can and go back over the screen, to follow the other gases out of the baffle stack, they' have lost a lot of their blast and heat. I"m left handed and have no problems with back blast from my AR at all. I use a 1.250 OD, .050" wall thickness baffle tube and an .050", 1 750 sleeve tube, so there's almost 7/16" of sleeve-area, 8.5" long. When you hold shut the bolt and fire straight up, so that there's no port noise, impact noise, or sonic crack, it sounds like a subsonic pellet rifle. That's real suppression, but the industry doesn't want to be bothered getting it.

 

[carbonbased]

Put in for the AEM5 today.

My comment is too late for the OP, but for others you really do need to consider other factors beyond the dB numbers.

Besides considering the weight and length of the can, if you shoot regularly (or a lot) you probably will want to clean the thing. Consider how you will do that.

Pro tip: If it’s a non-user serviceable can, weigh it when you get it. Weigh it later to understand how filled up it is inside.

What I’m driving at is to strongly consider an all-titanium can. They can withstand CLR better than other materials (avoid the SS threads, though). CLR will etch most other metals and really mess up aluminum.

Or buy a can through a manufacturer that will clean them for you. TBAC comes to mind (I’m not a fanboy, but they make good stuff), and I heard Surefire recored Garand Thumbs RC2 as it was stuffed full of carbon. Not sure if they charged him or if they will help mortals out.

Just the fact that TBAC will clean my can once a year for free for life makes me lean that way. I have some take-apart cans and cleaning them sucks

I’m not someone that is anal and needs a spotless suppressor. But after many nay-sayers said center-fire suppressors don’t need cleaning, manufacturers have come around. Check this thread out:

Suppressors - Do you clean your suppressor?

I sent an Ultra 7 to TBAC to remove the insert to go from direct thread to CB mount. When I weighed the box I thought to myself "that's pretty heavy". I got a call from them the day they received it and they said it should be cleaned asit was nearly 4 oz. heavy. I've never cleaned it and...

www.snipershide.com

Chunks of carbon falling in a bullet’s path or down your barrel is not good. And yes, this is after higher round counts and sometimes with particularly dirty reloading powder.

These objects cost way more than they should and are way too hard to obtain. My view is that they are not disposable.

Side note: Some manufacturers actually made sealed rimfire cans and said NBD. Not any longer!

 

[joe777]

My buddy has a ultrasonic cleaner / vibration parts cleaner, not sure if that would work.

 

[carbonbased]

Ultrasonics help, but the CLR is the ticket.

Someone makes a wand that attaches to a pressure washer.

Point is, cleaning suppressors sucks hairy balls.

 

[FuhQ]

My comment is too late for the OP, but for others you really do need to consider other factors beyond the dB numbers.

Besides considering the weight and length of the can, if you shoot regularly (or a lot) you probably will want to clean the thing. Consider how you will do that.

Pro tip: If it’s a non-user serviceable can, weigh it when you get it. Weigh it later to understand how filled up it is inside.

What I’m driving at is to strongly consider an all-titanium can. They can withstand CLR better than other materials (avoid the SS threads, though). CLR will etch most other metals and really mess up aluminum.

Or buy a can through a manufacturer that will clean them for you. TBAC comes to mind (I’m not a fanboy, but they make good stuff), and I heard Surefire recored Garand Thumbs RC2 as it was stuffed full of carbon. Not sure if they charged him or if they will help mortals out.

Just the fact that TBAC will clean my can once a year for free for life makes me lean that way. I have some take-apart cans and cleaning them sucks

I’m not someone that is anal and needs a spotless suppressor. But after many nay-sayers said center-fire suppressors don’t need cleaning, manufacturers have come around. Check this thread out:

Suppressors - Do you clean your suppressor?

I sent an Ultra 7 to TBAC to remove the insert to go from direct thread to CB mount. When I weighed the box I thought to myself "that's pretty heavy". I got a call from them the day they received it and they said it should be cleaned asit was nearly 4 oz. heavy. I've never cleaned it and...

www.snipershide.com

Chunks of carbon falling in a bullet’s path or down your barrel is not good. And yes, this is after higher round counts and sometimes with particularly dirty reloading powder.

These objects cost way more than they should and are way too hard to obtain. My view is that they are not disposable.

Side note: Some manufacturers actually made sealed rimfire cans and said NBD. Not any longer!

Also, subsonic .300 BLK and other subsonics will dirty up a can in a heartbeat. That shit sticks to the insides like a pistol does with a pistol can. I but about 1,500+ rounds of subsonics through my OCL Hydrogen-S 7.62 and it was FULL of carbon. Overall I had about 2,500+ rounds through it before cleaning, but it had shit coming out of it left and right when using CLR and soaking for a few days. It still wasn't enough, so I pulled the mount, and rotisserie'd it in my ultrasonic cleaner with a 3:1 mix of water to CLR Pro, and ran it for a full cycle (90 minutes) with some heat (keep the heat under about 135ºF just to ensure no finish damage), and it cleaned so much more crap out of that can. It got 1/2-3/4 oz more shit out of it, than just soaking in CLR. After cleaning and drying I weighed it, and it was within 0.3 oz of factory new spec, so overall I got it pretty damn clean. For future uses, I won't go more than about 1,500 without cleaning one.

So, all those folks who told us "you don't have to clean a centerfire can, just put a mag of supersonic 5.56 through it..." were all full of shit. Every can has to be cleaned eventually to keep it in top shape for maximum effective function.

 

[FuhQ]

My buddy has a ultrasonic cleaner / vibration parts cleaner, not sure if that would work.

Even though you ignored every other solid piece of advice the forum gave you... DO NOT use a vibratory or steel pin brass cleaner on your can! It WILL fuck it up. It might not the first, third, or fifth time... But it will eventually.

The ultrasonic works great if you know what you're doing, but you can very easily wreck the finish on a can if you use the wrong solution and/or too much heat.

Also, the AEM5 being a reflex design is going to be a bitch to clean, and once that reflex chamber builds up with carbon, that packed carbon will eventually turn into concrete, and it's extremely hard (sometimes impossible) to remove it, and it will get heavy, and in worst case scenario, you'll have to have the back-half of the can cut off and replaced with a new chamber. There are downfalls to the reflex design. Just make sure you know what you're getting into. I still think you're picking the wrong can, but it's your money, go for it. After ignoring everyone's advice and doing what you wanted to anyway, it seems you'll figure things out the hard way. So enjoy your purchase.

 

[Charger442]

I was able to find an AEM5 cheaper than $850 and my local shop says the distributor has it in stock. Just gonna suck it up and carry the extra weight. If my goal is max suppression (and tone which is probably just as important from what everyone says) there's just no other suppressor that i've came across with the reviews that the AEM5 has.

Put in for the AEM5 today.

Don't second guess yourself. You made an excellent choice. Those of us with the OG AEM5 and Ops Inc 12th can attest to it's excellent tone and suppression.

Suppressor sound vids, especially those in an inside range with obstructions and sound deadening material aren't close to being accurate. Especially since audio recording equipment will omit or cutout at certain sound levels and frequency.


Again, you did great, sir. You will not be disappointed

 

[joe777]

Thank you sir, appreciate it.

 

[AMGtuned]

always thought the Ops Inc was a neat can

 

[LeftyJason]

Don't get obsessed with test readings. The human ear cannot distinguish moderate differences so if it is 132 or 135 you probably can not tell the difference and are likely to get it wrong. With different suppressors the tone is more noticable than a couple db, I like a deep tone, it is more pleasant and less likely to draw attention than a sharper crack.

Haven't read the rest of this thread yet.

Here is a pretty good explanation of what you're talking about.

 

[doubloon]

Haven't read the rest of this thread yet.

Here is a pretty good explanation of what you're talking about.

Nice link ... golf clap ... the part that addresses tone is especially pertinent.

 

[darkfader]

Just got my OCM5 a couple weeks ago and still haven’t had a chance to try it out. You guys got me wanting to call in “sick” to work tomorrow. Lol

 

[AMGtuned]

Just got my OCM5 a couple weeks ago and still haven’t had a chance to try it out. You guys got me wanting to call in “sick” to work tomorrow. Lol

You haven't called YET!?! Cough cough....

 

[carbonbased]

Just got my OCM5 a couple weeks ago and still haven’t had a chance to try it out. You guys got me wanting to call in “sick” to work tomorrow. Lol

You haven't called YET!?! Cough cough....

Yeah, @darkfader you don’t so good. Your forehead feels hot. Here’s some hot soup your mom said you better take it easy the next couple of days. Get some rest

 

[AMGtuned]

Thats the Hide; looking out for one another

 

[M4orturnate]

I didnt read the whole thread so if this had been said forgive me. Suppressing any semi auto is a balancing act between enough back pressure to be quiet but not too much to unlock early and have port pop. Being a reloader helps because faster powders suppress better. One of my quietest 556s is a 12.5sbr with a rex mg7 556 can on it. I use a h3 buffer to keep it locked as long as possible. The trade off is it wo t run reliably without the can or with weak ammo. Adjustable gad blocks can help but they all carbon lock quickly. Ive also had good luck using longer 30 cal cans to.