I would probably go Howa and put it in the stock I want or wait for the Howa's in the KRG Bravo stocks to be available.
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Picatinny rail with 20 MOA of cant with quality rings, no question. A direct mount (I assume you mean a one-piece ring/base combo that bolts directly to the receiver) leaves much to be desired in flexibility.I have decided to buy the scope you recommended. Would you suggest a direct mount or a picatinny style rail under? How do you determine the high/med/low for the rings? Anything else you would suggest? Thanks again for you insight.
I have decided to buy the scope you recommended. Would you suggest a direct mount or a picatinny style rail under? How do you determine the high/med/low for the rings? Anything else you would suggest? Thanks again for you insight.
Picatinny rail with 20 MOA of cant with quality rings, no question. A direct mount (I assume you mean a one-piece ring/base combo that bolts directly to the receiver) leaves much to be desired in flexibility.
As far as ring height goes, there's a sticky post in the optics subforum that explains how to figure it out.
Picatinny rail with 20 MOA of cant with quality rings, no question. A direct mount (I assume you mean a one-piece ring/base combo that bolts directly to the receiver) leaves much to be desired in flexibility.
As far as ring height goes, there's a sticky post in the optics subforum that explains how to figure it out.
I have the HMR w/Warne 20moa base and SHV 4-14x50 with Tenebraex covers. It’s mounted in NF ultralight low rings (0.885 IIRC) and just clears everything. I do have the front Tenebraex cover opening to the side - if it were to open vertically there is a small tab on the bottom of the cover (used to flip it open) that wouldn’t quite clear.
FWIW I purchased this gun used with 350 rd count and previous owner made a point to tell me the base had been “properly torqued to specs when installed”. I’ve put another 80 or so through it and it hasn’t come loose, but given the issues some have had now I know to check it.
I have a friend that has a new, unused Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 (Gen I) with a EBR-1 MOA FFP Illuminated he will sell me for $850.
Do the screws loosen?( loctite?) otherwise, do the screws strip? ( that WOULD be mfg. fault ) but mine were very good grade screws,otherwise why is it a “ terrible “ base design ? Stock bolts coming loose ? Again torque and a thread lock this ,again, the assemblers/ owners responsibility,,isn’t it? I don’t know anything about the cheek rest hardware ,mine is a custom one, made in my shop,by me,for me not adjustable and permanent,I’ve had no problems with extraction ,different ,it’s a rimfire but 0 problems and I’ve shot scads of ammo,last year 21 weeks and about 150 rounds a week between practice and competiton score plus it’s my small game rifle.(BMR) .22 lr.We have seen 3 consistent issues with the Bergara's when they show up at a class.
1: Scope base coming loose. Their base design is terrible. This is on all models including the LRP Elite.
2: Stock bolts coming loose. Especially on the HMR models. Cheek rest hardware on the HMRs is terrible also.
3: More issues than acceptable with ejection.
Not enough exposure to Howa to have an opinion on them.
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So your Bergara is a 22 LR?Do the screws loosen?( loctite?) otherwise, do the screws strip? ( that WOULD be mfg. fault ) but mine were very good grade screws,otherwise why is it a “ terrible “ base design ? Stock bolts coming loose ? Again torque and a thread lock this ,again, the assemblers/ owners responsibility,,isn’t it? I don’t know anything about the cheek rest hardware ,mine is a custom one, made in my shop,by me,for me not adjustable and permanent,I’ve had no problems with extraction ,different ,it’s a rimfire but 0 problems and I’ve shot scads of ammo,last year 21 weeks and about 150 rounds a week between practice and competiton score plus it’s my small game rifle.(BMR) .22 lr.