what I should ad to the gun to maximize the performance. I bought the 16” with the heavy chrome lined barrel. My current plan is to attach an Atlas bi-pod, my Nightforce ATACR, and quick detach brake for my Gemtech One suppressor. I am thinking about either getting my 16” barrel cut to 14.5 and permanently attaching the brake or buying a second barrel. Maybe a light weight stainless barrel? My goal is to have a gun that is 1 moa maximum. I am also thinking about an adjustable gas block, if it is necessary. I have an Armalite Super SASS “carbine” that consistently shoots 1/2 moa and I am hoping to achieve the same with this gun. Opinions and recommendations based on your personal builds are welcomed. Thanks in advance.
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I bought a LMT MARS-H 308 today at a local gun shop. Opinions on
- Thread starter Tackelbarry
- Start date
If youre running a suppressor that has a decent amount of back pressure, you will probably want a heavier buffer, adjustable gas block, or a brt gas tube.
MWS aren't known for "consistent" .5 MOA accuracy, more like .75- 1.25 on a good day unless you have a custom barrel made up.
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Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately, it will be a few months before I can shoot it because I just had shoulder surgery. Has anyone shortened their barrel to 14.5 ? Any other suggestions ? Thanks again.
My opinion is you are full of crap, MARS-H is unobtanium
Otherwise, fix the trigger (all stock triggers suck as a rule) and go shoot. What needs to be modded will present itself. 16vin barrel has a good balance but that's my opinion.
AGB if suppressed
Bastard
Otherwise, fix the trigger (all stock triggers suck as a rule) and go shoot. What needs to be modded will present itself. 16vin barrel has a good balance but that's my opinion.
AGB if suppressed
Bastard
I have a PVS-14 and the Steiner Dbal-d2 that I could switch over from one of my DD guns. Hitting a target at 300 yards at night with the ir laser is a lot of fun. Thanks for the reply.
It gets better. I was looking them up on Gunbroker and saw that a local gun shop, Fuquay Guns, had one listed on Gunbroker for $3999.99. I gave them a call, not telling them I saw they had one listed on Gunbroker ,and asked if they had one in stock. Drew, the salesman, came back to the phone and said they had one for $2899.99. Mt total was $3008.04 out the door. I also traded a gun ( Colt double Eagle) and a knife ( Randall model 15 airman) to reduce the cost by $1400.00.
I have a client, who became a friend, coming over tomorrow to take a few shots to sight it in, since I can’t shoot for a few more months. For now, I stuck my Nightforce ATACR 1-8 and an Atlas bi-pod. I am looking forward to see how it performs.
Do you have a recommendation for an adjustable gas block? SLR ? Thanks again.
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I think you are going to have a hard time changing the gas block. Let us know how you do it.
If you are worried about too much gas... Get a BRT gas tube.
The barrels are heavy and accurate, in my opinion.
I wouldn't chop a barrel to 14.5, you aren't going to save much weight or length. I'd look for a factory light weight 13.5 barrel. Or get a different barrel of your choosing and have d Wilson convert it for MRP use. I don't think the cost/value proposition is a good one when it comes to chopping the barrel.
I have a tubbs 308 flatware spring in my MWS, it's great, made a huge difference in slowing the cyclic rate down, which is a good thing.
The 2 stage triggers aren't bad. They aren't a target trigger, they are a couple of pounds heavier than I like for target shooting, but that doesn't need to be a high priority, IMO.
The 6.5CM barrel I have is quite accurate.
If you want to shoot moa groups at distance, I'd plan on a higher mag scope. The rifle is going to be heavy anyway, so don't worry about adding 9 more ounces.
I usually hate heavy rifles... But I love my MWS. One of the last rifles I'll ever part with.
If you are worried about too much gas... Get a BRT gas tube.
The barrels are heavy and accurate, in my opinion.
I wouldn't chop a barrel to 14.5, you aren't going to save much weight or length. I'd look for a factory light weight 13.5 barrel. Or get a different barrel of your choosing and have d Wilson convert it for MRP use. I don't think the cost/value proposition is a good one when it comes to chopping the barrel.
I have a tubbs 308 flatware spring in my MWS, it's great, made a huge difference in slowing the cyclic rate down, which is a good thing.
The 2 stage triggers aren't bad. They aren't a target trigger, they are a couple of pounds heavier than I like for target shooting, but that doesn't need to be a high priority, IMO.
The 6.5CM barrel I have is quite accurate.
If you want to shoot moa groups at distance, I'd plan on a higher mag scope. The rifle is going to be heavy anyway, so don't worry about adding 9 more ounces.
I usually hate heavy rifles... But I love my MWS. One of the last rifles I'll ever part with.
Here it is with the current set up. I am not sure what the final set up will be. I just installed stuff I already had.Thanks for the reply. The hardest part is knowing I won't get to shoot it for several months due to my recent shoulder surgery. The scale says it weighs 13.2 pounds in the current configuration. It really doesn't feel that heavy to me. I ordered another 500 Federal 168 GMM yesterday. Anticipation !!!
If you need someone to take it to Coleman’s Creek and wring it out give me a call!
I guess I never did mention the intended use. Maybe coyote hunting. It will be mostly shooting on my property, out to 200 yards and on my neighbors property, out to 400 yards. I have several rifles that I would like to confirm at longer distances but it just never seems to work out.
We chop barrels and install adjustable GBs all the time. Not sure what the big deal is
Haha... I know you can! I assumed (probably incorrectly) that changing the gas block was something he was thinking about doing on his own.We chop barrels and install adjustable GBs all the time. Not sure what the big deal is
I agree. Keep this barrel factory and get a 13" factory barrel. The MWS has a relatively "quick barrel change system" right?
Ive got the 13" barrel on my SCAR 17 as well as the 4.5" KDG rail and mototech regulator
My 16" barrel has the 6.5" KDG rail and a mototech adjustable regulator as well. I can do the complete swap in about 90 seconds. It makes the decision about "only grabbing one rifle" much easier
The MARS-H will be a great friend to you. If you change barrels, I would suggest you stick with LMT barrels. Going from Chrome Lined to SS wil improve your accuracy and repeatability tremendously. The good news is the MRP system will allow you to swap out barrels. You can choose tos stay with 16", as the British did with their designated sharpshooter rifles, or go 20" and be a real player in accuracy. LMT barrels do not get the love they deserve. I have never had a bad one. My personal first 7.62 gas gun was an LMT 20" SS. 3/4 MOA out to 500 yards, then some spread.
I would love to find a SS 16 or 20” heavy barrel, or both, to switch with the 16” chrome barrel. Ideally, be able to trade my 16” chrome barrel towards the SS barrel, since the gun has never been shot. Any ideas where to find either? Thanks for your input.
If you are wanting a precision shooter, I would install a Geissele Hi-speed National Match trigger, JP SCS AR 10 heavy buffer, D. Wilson modded Proof CF 6.5 CM barrel (Boss firearms has some in stock), a SLR adj gas block, and a LMT DMR stock.
If your barrel shoots and you want to keep it a shorter 308 you will probably want to install a BRT gas tube, trigger, and JP SCS anyway.
If your barrel shoots and you want to keep it a shorter 308 you will probably want to install a BRT gas tube, trigger, and JP SCS anyway.
For what’s it’s worth haven’t needed the GRT tube while using Superlative adjustable gas block. 16” 308 Proof
Correction, I meant to say Superlative Arms adjustable gas block. I have the above and it just plain works. It is accurate, with light recoil, and a reasonable weight with the CF barrel for it’s 22 inch length.
It also puts the hurt on coyotes.
Nothing wrong keeping it 308. Mine sure was overgassed when suppressed though.
I really appreciate all of you taking the time to give your input. So, another question. If I upgrade to a factory stainless steel heavy barrel, 16 or 20”, are the factory barrels cut to the tolerances to shoot 1/2 m.o.a. ? Also, has anyone tried a hydraulic buffer along with the Tubbs flatware spring. Thanks again.
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Never mind. Answered my own question . I got the clamp version.
I have the LMT Defense MARS-H. Is there a preference toward the clamp vs set screw adjustable blocks? I need to pickup on and wasn’t sure if the difference.
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No. I tinker with everything to squeeze out every drop of performance.
Should I shoot Wolf or Tul Ammo at matches?
I was directing my initial question to the OP but at what point does it go from “tinker” to “LMT rifle of Theseus”?
So far in this thread people have recommended to change the:
-Barrel
-Gas Block
-Gas Tube
-Trigger
-Buffer
-Buffer Spring
-BCG
-Stock
Not much LMT left after that - certainly not $3000 worth.
So far in this thread people have recommended to change the:
-Barrel
-Gas Block
-Gas Tube
-Trigger
-Buffer
-Buffer Spring
-BCG
-Stock
Not much LMT left after that - certainly not $3000 worth.
Yes I see your point. Could just order a JP and get everything custom or build your own LMT instead of doing factory build.
I have a factory MARS DMR, the only upgrades I made was an SSA-E trigger and installed my OSS suppressor and it shot multiple 1/2 moa groups on its first trip to the range... No malfunctions... Brass ejects at 4:30... Probably my favorite gun.
