I need a muzzle break for my tikka t3 .308 I took it and my wife to the range on Sunday and it kicked her ass. so I need suggestions on the best break to reduce kick for her.
I nee a break.
- Thread starter eli polite
- Start date
What you need is a brake, often spelled break. First off, is your muzzle threaded? If not, you need to either have it threaded or go with a clamp-on brake.
BO fte or ops inc, if it needs threaded. If it is factory threaded(18x1mm) apa just came out witha fat bastard in that thread pattern.
hard to see in this pic, but I went with the badger fte micro. I wanted something a bit more compact when I had my barrel cut to 18". It does a pretty good job, the 308 kicks a little less than a 243 now.
If you could measure the muzzle diameter that could help us point you in the right direction. If the muzzle is very narrow you may have to go with a micro brake and the standard 5/8" x 24 TPI threads seen on most .308cal rifles may not work if there is not a large enough OD to accomidate it. You may have to go with a 9/16" x 32 TPI. It is smaller in OD obviously and the finer threads do not cut as deep as the 24TPI providing a little more wiggle room. You would have to call and special order / specify this thread.
On a hunting rig you may take a look at the VIAS Micro Brake. It can be blended to the same contour as the barrel (provided the barrel OD is large enough) for a seemless fit and finish. Vais Arms Inc.
On a hunting rig you may take a look at the VIAS Micro Brake. It can be blended to the same contour as the barrel (provided the barrel OD is large enough) for a seemless fit and finish. Vais Arms Inc.
hard to see in this pic, but I went with the badger fte micro. I wanted something a bit more compact when I had my barrel cut to 18". It does a pretty good job, the 308 kicks a little less than a 243 now.
Damn 2guard, that is one sweet rifle.
JP tank is the best on the market, it's big. If you don't want something that big then I would go with a Bennie Cooley muzzle brake. Either one make your rifle like shoots a .223.
It's a tikka t3 tactical it is threaded
I just never gave any thought to how my wife would handle it she is 5"4" 110 lbs so it really beats her shoulder up. I don't care about looks I just it just needs to be made manageable.
her favorite rifle is her ar15 and she has no problem with that recoil. I had a savage fcp-k and the break on that made the recoil much more manageable for her but I sold that in order to buy this I have read that the factory threading on the tikka is different than most other rifles is this the case?
I just never gave any thought to how my wife would handle it she is 5"4" 110 lbs so it really beats her shoulder up. I don't care about looks I just it just needs to be made manageable.
her favorite rifle is her ar15 and she has no problem with that recoil. I had a savage fcp-k and the break on that made the recoil much more manageable for her but I sold that in order to buy this I have read that the factory threading on the tikka is different than most other rifles is this the case?
I would probably go with the tank brake
I had an armalite AR30 brake on a custom 300WM and it actually produced what I felt was some negative recoil. The gun would actually move a bit forward with each shot
I could shoot all day and have zero fatigue. On the flip side it is very loud and the concussion from it was a bitch
I had an armalite AR30 brake on a custom 300WM and it actually produced what I felt was some negative recoil. The gun would actually move a bit forward with each shot
I could shoot all day and have zero fatigue. On the flip side it is very loud and the concussion from it was a bitch
No doubt the Schuller brake is a nice piece, and a great value, but the OP is going for MAXIMUM recoil reduction.
JP tank brake.
Similar threads
