My favorite level now is the green "smiley faced" arc but I don't think it is available except to go around a scope.
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I need a top quality bubble level that attaches to a piccatinny rail
- Thread starter VaRandy
- Start date
I've bought a couple of the us optic rail levels. They seem to be of good quality, a little price though. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/co...REG&ap=y&c3api=1876,92051677682,&Q=&A=details
I'm sure you know SPUHR has one built in. http://www.eurooptic.com/sniper-tools-design-co.aspx Sniper Tools has one. Tell me, have you ever missed a shot because you did not know which way was up? I think most people can judge the vertical better than most gobed on levels.
Something to think about, the level mount and/or the pic rail may not be machined 100% perfect. So by using a level mounted to a potentially unlevel surface you could introduce cant. It's much better to use a bubble level mounted to your scope since you know it's level, assuming you took the time to mount it properly (this would also include the spuhr mount. That appears to be a good option but again it depends on perfect surface contact for the base to be perfectly level with the rail). I've always only used scope mounted levels (my current flavor is the accuracy 1st level). But I could be totally off on this as I don't have a ton of experience with your option. I'm just offering some input.
This is one of the better ones that i have seen....but directly mounting to the optic would seem to be preferred
http://shop.knightarmco.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=KM30855
http://shop.knightarmco.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=KM30855
If you level the scope base and your scope together then it shouldn't matter whether you have a level on the rail or scope. That's the same as a spuhr mount the level is built into the back of the mount which shows you whether the rail is level not the scope. Now if you level the scope independent of the scope rail then by all mean put a level on the scope. Just so you know I got away from the rail mount levels a long time ago and use Spurh mounts.
I prefer scope mounted levels personally as rails may not be level as mentioned above and you may prefer some cant between your rifle/stock and your scope.
I don't think it really matters which scope mounted level you use as long as you keep it under 15 inch pounds when tightening. it's not a moving part and it's lightweight. Does not need to be cranked down. My friend goes up to 25 with no issues, but I use 15 personally and none have ever come loose over years of shooting.
I like something like the Vortex standard version (not the lo-pro version) because it's obnoxiously big and easily visible with my non ocular eye (I shoot both eyes open). I use it for every shot in which I'm not under a clock/I use it under a clock when shooting over 600 yards.
I am one of those people that struggles to find anything close to a perfect vertical naturally so I run them on both sides (for support side shooting as well).
I like "I" statements.
I don't think it really matters which scope mounted level you use as long as you keep it under 15 inch pounds when tightening. it's not a moving part and it's lightweight. Does not need to be cranked down. My friend goes up to 25 with no issues, but I use 15 personally and none have ever come loose over years of shooting.
I like something like the Vortex standard version (not the lo-pro version) because it's obnoxiously big and easily visible with my non ocular eye (I shoot both eyes open). I use it for every shot in which I'm not under a clock/I use it under a clock when shooting over 600 yards.
I am one of those people that struggles to find anything close to a perfect vertical naturally so I run them on both sides (for support side shooting as well).
I like "I" statements.
I like the KAC rail-mounted anti-cant. It tucks under the scope on the rail. Haven't seen too much in the way of off-angle rails or mounts lately. It is why I tend to buy quality gear ... so I don't have to worry about that. Of course I still check things 
http://shop.knightarmco.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=KM30855
http://shop.knightarmco.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=KM30855
Vortex is nice and visible, also allows for flexibility of positioning. It does stick out the side (making it easier to see) but can also get in the way. Have been running Sphur and like having the level there, although you may need to move your head slightly to see it depending on whether you wear glasses or not. Also, DMZ and Nightforce make levels which mount on top of the back rings. The level is also just getting you close to level (some people are better are reading a level than others), so unless your rail is really warped, you will be fine whichever way you go.
I can never seem to make it all the way through a post by TacticalDillhole. I can't figure it out but something distracts me and I end up visiting other web sites for a while.
I like the built-in level in the MPA stock. It's easier to see than the level in the Spuhr mount.
I like the built-in level in the MPA stock. It's easier to see than the level in the Spuhr mount.
Regardless of where you mount your bubble level, you need to ensure that it is coordinated with your reticle, otherwise it is pointless. Your turrets adjust up/down and left/right in reference to your reticle, so if the reticle and bubble level aren't coordinated, the bubble level is doing more damage than good.
With that being said, I prefer scope mounted bubble levels (accuracy first makes a great level https://www.accuracy1stdg.com/store/itemDetail.cfm?prodID=549). This allows you to cant your rifle to fit you better (if needed) while still having a reticle level with gravity.
The machined error won't wont hinder anything as long as the scope is mounted to have the reticle and bubble level coordinated. I.E. if the pic rail mounted bubble level is not perfectly level with the rifle, you can still adjust your scope to have the reticle lined up with the bubble level. It works the same way as the scope mounted level, but it just eliminates the ability to level the scope and rifle differently for comfort.
With that being said, I prefer scope mounted bubble levels (accuracy first makes a great level https://www.accuracy1stdg.com/store/itemDetail.cfm?prodID=549). This allows you to cant your rifle to fit you better (if needed) while still having a reticle level with gravity.
The machined error won't wont hinder anything as long as the scope is mounted to have the reticle and bubble level coordinated. I.E. if the pic rail mounted bubble level is not perfectly level with the rifle, you can still adjust your scope to have the reticle lined up with the bubble level. It works the same way as the scope mounted level, but it just eliminates the ability to level the scope and rifle differently for comfort.
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The David Tubb bubble levels work well and are on sale for $40 right now - http://www.davidtubb.com/tubb-competition-shooting-accessories/cant-indicator-34mm
I've enjoyed my Wheeler rail mounted one thus far. Has an adjustment to true it. When changing scopes and rings recently it took a little bit of modification to make it fit underneath but fits perfectly.
level needs to be relative to the reticle. best way to do that is mount it on the scope. Hit the blog section for a video by Frank or watch this.
I use the badger jig to level my reticles. That way I don't have to worry about whether the gun or rail is level. After mounting the scope in the rings I put on the bubble level and mount the whole system to the rifle. If I have to have a little cant in the rifle to level the reticle when shooting I'm ok with that.
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