I think I just found my go to cleaning solvent.

[Srgt. Hulka]

Since getting my John Hancock rifle, I wanted to follow PVA’s recommended cleaning procedures. I’ve had my rifle to the range one time, shot 40 rounds, and cleaned it using their recommendations. I ran about 15 patches through it until the patches came out clean. However, I wasn’t using their recommended cleaning solvent, I hadn’t ordered any at the time. PVA recommends Bore Tech Eliminator for cleaning their barrels. I ordered some, sat down this evening and I ran some patches of it through my “clean” barrel. Holy cow!! I don’t think I’ve ever had anything clean copper out of a barrel like this before, especially a clean barrel. Here’s a pic of my patches. The first four are wet patches, and the next two are dry. I think I found my go to cleaning solvent.

 

[BrianSoCal]

I first tried Bore Tech a few years back and have found their Eliminator to work well. I have since tried some of their other cleaning products and they have been extremely high quality. Their bolt action and AR cleaning kits have made cleaning faster and easier.

 

[northshorelumber]

I have tried dozens of different cleaning solutions over the year. But have settled on the Bore Tech products specially Eliminator as well as their copper, carbon, and shotgun solutions for a few years now.

 

[Racer88]

Another happy Bore Tech user here.

 

[luv2hunt6]

Another vote for eliminator. I’ve been using it since 2015 and it works better than all the chemicals I’ve used before.

 

[Sheldon N]

Another happy Eliminator user here too.

But if you think your barrel is clean, run a few wet patches, let sit for half an hour then use a new bronze brush through it 5 to 10 passes then a clean patch to see what comes out.

 

[Srgt. Hulka]

Another vote for eliminator. I’ve been using it since 2015 and it works better than all the chemicals I’ve used before.

And no smell. I cleaned five guns in the middle of the living room floor, and not one comment from my wife. ?

 

[Racer88]

Do you guys just use Eliminator? What about the separate carbon and copper removers?

 

[spife7980]

What jag are you using? Most jags will turn a soaked patch blue if you just let it sit there without putting it in the barrel. So don’t let that in itself trick you.

 

[grinnergetter]

I have been using Bore Tech Eliminator for years and you know how you run into the "this is better conversations" . So I bought KG and Wipe Out just to see for myself. Bore Tech wins for me along with their Proof Positive jags. Good stuff!

 

[Racer88]

What jag are you using? Most jags will turn a soaked patch blue if you just let it sit there without putting it in the barrel. So don’t let that in itself trick you.

I use the aluminum jag from Dewey Rods. They eliminate the false blue sign.

 

[luv2hunt6]

I’m using Tipton jags that are chrome plated or plated with something similar. It stopped the false indications.

 

[Srgt. Hulka]

What jag are you using? Most jags will turn a soaked patch blue if you just let it sit there without putting it in the barrel. So don’t let that in itself trick you.

I knew someone would ask this. I use a piece of weed eater line that I’ve melted one end to hold the patch. I just poke a hole in the patch and slide it on, wet it and pull it through from the chamber to the muzzle. No brass or copper in involved. It works real well, and cost nothing.

 

[spife7980]

That’s pretty clever!

 

[Srgt. Hulka]

That’s pretty clever!

I’m a cheap SOB. ?

 

[Bulletsmith]

Also a Bore Tec user, about 3 years now. Works very well.

 

[8up]

Same here, used both eliminator and carbon/copper remover for 2 years now. No smell, easy clean up, and stuff works awesome. The carbon remover is the best I have ever used and easy to clean any carbon off of parts.

 

[ken4570tc in WY]

I started using Eliminator 13 years ago after trying every cleaner and copper remover available. My factory Savage .308 barrel would foul pretty badly when using it to shoot both light and heavy gun classes. The Eliminator worked the best and didn't smell. That smell thing was really important since I was using the dining room table and my wife had a say in the process.

 

[MarinePMI]

I knew someone would ask this. I use a piece of weed eater line that I’ve melted one end to hold the patch. I just poke a hole in the patch and slide it on, wet it and pull it through from the chamber to the muzzle. No brass or copper in involved. It works real well, and cost nothing.
View attachment 7007046

View attachment 7007047

I do something similar. To add to this, using some wire cutters, just clip the end you thread a patch on at an angle. This will allow it to poke through the patch more easily. The weedeater method of cleaning barrels came about from the rimfire guys 15-20 years ago (since 10/22's had no breech hole in the receiver for using a standard rod). They're also an easy thing to add to the pack for a quick clean (especially if the bore gets fouled with dirt or mud).

 

[Srgt. Hulka]

I do something similar. To add to this, using some wire cutters, just clip the end you thread a patch on at an angle. This will allow it to poke through the patch more easily. The weedeater method of cleaning barrels came about from the rimfire guys 15-20 years ago (since 10/22's had no breech hole in the receiver for using a standard rod). They're also an easy thing to add to the pack for a quick clean (especially if the bore gets fouled with dirt or mud).

I didn’t know this about the 10/22 guys, but it certainly makes sense. I use it on all my rifles.

I tried using a fingernail file to get a point on it, with no luck. Never crossed my mind to use the old side cutters. Thanks Marine. .

 

[BurnOut]

Check out KG-12, as well: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/our-own-copper-carbon-solvent-test.689/

 

[Dewey2045]

Thanks for the bore cleaner recommendation.

Re the weedeater approach, there is a commercial version called a PatchWorm (TM) that has a 20 cal stop to hold the patch fused on the plastic line and includes several additional "heads" (plastic cylinders) for calibers from 22 up to 12 gauge. I use both the pistol length and rifle length versions.

 

[Ghogs Nightmare]

I've never used the eliminator, does it have a strong odor....as in need to clean in the garage or deck/patio so your eyes don't cross?

 

[JBELL74]

Almost no odor compared to some of the others I've tried. Stuff is fantastic.

 

[TSpork]

What rods do you guys use? Also the bore tech ones to prevent false readings?

 

[Srgt. Hulka]

Thanks for the bore cleaner recommendation.

Re the weedeater approach, there is a commercial version called a PatchWorm (TM) that has a 20 cal stop to hold the patch fused on the plastic line and includes several additional "heads" (plastic cylinders) for calibers from 22 up to 12 gauge. I use both the pistol length and rifle length versions.

I’ll look that up. Thanks Dewey.

I've never used the eliminator, does it have a strong odor....as in need to clean in the garage or deck/patio so your eyes don't cross?

Almost no odor at all. I didn’t even notice it yesterday while I was cleaning. I had to get up and go sniff it to answer your question. ?I was amazed.

 

[pjparker]

I have been using BoreTech Eliminator for a number of years now and don't really have anything else to add that hasn't already been said so far and it's all good. Non-copper bearing jags are critical for good indication of copper removal. Love the weed-eater string idea ! What I do find interesting is that in 24 Posts, no bad-mouthing the product...…..Says a lot, right there.

 

[JBELL74]

I use Dewey or Tipton carbon fiber rods, Bore Tech brushes... still need to pick up some different jags.

 

[Ghogs Nightmare]

Thanks!

 

[Jimmy31593]

I have use a lot of the Bore Tech products, they are all great. You really cannot go wrong with Bore Tech.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

It will react to copper and keeps reacting to it until you get tired. It is such a great formula that they also put out one just for carbon and another one for copper. Actually, good shit. Using a good bore guide wrap a patch around a non brass nylon bore brush and push through rather than a jag. K12 is best for final copper removing when you absolutely want it all gone. That is when Bortech comes in to confirm.

 

[lash]

I’ll have to pick up some and try it out.

 

[jojotheclown]

I tried boretech recently as well and have been really impressed. It was recommended by APR and now I see why.

 

[Nik H]

It will react to copper and keeps reacting to it until you get tired. It is such a great formula that they also put out one just for carbon and another one for copper. Actually, good shit. Using a good bore guide wrap a patch around a non brass nylon bore brush and push through rather than a jag. K12 is best for final copper removing when you absolutely want it all gone. That is when Bortech comes in to confirm.

I use the KG1 and KG12 products and find them to be the best that I have tried.

 

[BurnOut]

I use the KG1 and KG12 products and find them to be the best that I have tried.

These are my findings as well. The long and short of it is that I have not seen an all-in-one product that removes carbon as well as a dedicated carbon cleaner AND removes copper as well as a dedicated copper cleaner. So, I use a multi-solution approach.

KG1 as a carbon cleaner is pretty damned good (though not the absolute best I've seen), and KG12 is the hands-down copper removing champion. The reason that I use KG1 (despite it not being the best) is that it is intended to be used in conjunction with KG12. That is to say that I may have to run a few extra patches of KG1 in exchange for being reasonably confident that there will not be any sort of adverse chemical reaction when/if I have to use the KG12. IMO, it is a trade off worth making.

 

[Nik H]

These are my findings as well. The long and short of it is that I have not seen an all-in-one product that removes carbon as well as a dedicated carbon cleaner AND removes copper as well as a dedicated copper cleaner. So, I use a multi-solution approach.

KG1 as a carbon cleaner is pretty damned good (though not the absolute best I've seen), and KG12 is the hands-down copper removing champion. The reason that I use KG1 (despite it not being the best) is that it is intended to be used in conjunction with KG12. That is to say that I may have to run a few extra patches of KG1 in exchange for being reasonably confident that there will not be any sort of adverse chemical reaction when/if I have to use the KG12. IMO, it is a trade off worth making.

That is interesting...I thought KG1 was better than anything else. What did you find that is better? Would be interested as I never knew that KG1 was intended to be used with KG12. The KG12 removes Copper better than anything else and I started using it after I saw some posted test results comparing KG12 to others. However, I don't remove copper very often. I just rely on the carbon remover. I clean every 100 rounds so the carbon build-up is never that bad. I only use the KG12 every few hundred rounds.

Do you ever use the KG2 bore polish

 

[BurnOut]

That is interesting...I thought KG1 was better than anything else. What did you find that is better? Would be interested as I never knew that KG1 was intended to be used with KG12. The KG12 removes Copper better than anything else and I started using it after I saw some posted test results comparing KG12 to others. However, I don't remove copper very often. I just rely on the carbon remover. I clean every 100 rounds so the carbon build-up is never that bad. I only use the KG12 every few hundred rounds.

Honestly, the best carbon remover I have found is CLR. It's available at Home Depot, etc..., and I tried it at the suggestion of Hide user @orkan.

It absolutely removes carbon like a beast, but I have no idea what kind of chemical reaction might result if there were a film of it left in the bore when I went to use the KG12. The threads on using CLR had people who at least seem to be better informed than I am talking about neutralizing the CLR or using 99% isopropyl alcohol after using CLR to ensure that it is completely removed. It just seems to me to be a better bet to use chemicals from the same company (in this case, KG) to clean the bore. That said, if I run across something that is (somehow) heavily carbon'd, I'll use the CLR and then get really anal about dry patching and using alcohol to clean the bore. As you mentioned, I tend to clean more often than some, so my barrels don't get all that bad. I only go after the copper if my KG1 patches show significant blue tinting... if it's not too bad I tend to leave it alone (my reasoning is that the copper might be filling in tiny pits/rough spots in the bore, and I don't want to remove it all if I don't have to).

 

[Nik H]

Honestly, the best carbon remover I have found is CLR. It's available at Home Depot, etc..., and I tried it at the suggestion of Hide user @orkan.

It absolutely removes carbon like a beast, but I have no idea what kind of chemical reaction might result if there were a film of it left in the bore when I went to use the KG12. The threads on using CLR had people who at least seem to be better informed than I am talking about neutralizing the CLR or using 99% isopropyl alcohol after using CLR to ensure that it is completely removed. It just seems to me to be a better bet to use chemicals from the same company (in this case, KG) to clean the bore. That said, if I run across something that is (somehow) heavily carbon'd, I'll use the CLR and then get really anal about dry patching and using alcohol to clean the bore. As you mentioned, I tend to clean more often than some, so my barrels don't get all that bad. I only go after the copper if my KG1 patches show significant blue tinting... if it's not too bad I tend to leave it alone (my reasoning is that the copper might be filling in tiny pits/rough spots in the bore, and I don't want to remove it all if I don't have to).

Yes....I read the original post by @orkan but never tried it even though I bought the CLR and 99.9% alcohol. I am not really willing to try it on an expensive barrel when the KG1/12 works as well as it does. However, I do use the felt cleaning pellets from VFG that @orkan suggested and they work a lot better than patches.

 

[BurnOut]

I'm with you on the VFG pellets, and you're right, they work very well. I try to minimize my use of them in an effort to save money (patches ARE much less expensive), but they're very useful for using KG12, KG2, and the like. I missed your earlier question about using KG2, and yes, I do use it when I feel I need to. If I go 4-5 soak (wet patch, wait 5-10 minutes)/clean cycles with the KG1 and continue to get significantly dirty patches, I'll apply some KG2 to a pair of the VFG pellets and give the barrel a good scrub; that usually serves to mechanically loosen up enough crud to get things back on track where a few dry patches and another (KG1) wet patch or two will finally get it where it needs to be.

 

[Nik H]

I'm with you on the VFG pellets, and you're right, they work very well. I try to minimize my use of them in an effort to save money (patches ARE much less expensive), but they're very useful for using KG12, KG2, and the like. I missed your earlier question about using KG2, and yes, I do use it when I feel I need to. If I go 4-5 soak (wet patch, wait 5-10 minutes)/clean cycles with the KG1 and continue to get significantly dirty patches, I'll apply some KG2 to a pair of the VFG pellets and give the barrel a good scrub; that usually serves to mechanically loosen up enough crud to get things back on track where a few dry patches and another (KG1) wet patch or two will finally get it where it needs to be.

Nice...thanks

 

[robb_va]

What rods do you guys use? Also the bore tech ones to prevent false readings?

I use a BT rod and proof positive jags/brushes.

 

[Mattio]

recently switched over to Boretech from Wipe-out... super happy so far

 

[Iwillylike2shoot]

I keep hearing about boretech. I think I'll be picking some up.

 

[Prebanpaul]

Tag for informational purposes.

 

[Possumpete]

Boretech has worked well for me as well,for many years.

 

[brianf]

I found Montana extreme copper killer to be the best.

1-2 wet
wet bronze brush for 10-15 strokes
Let sit while I do something else
2/3 dry to push the crap out, patches come out blue
One wet patch short stroke
2/3 dry
1 90% alcohol
1/2 dry
15 min tops.
Down to bare steel

 

[Shifty6BR]

My cleanining agents...actually went thru the regimen last eve on the 6L.

 

[smokeon]

Great suggestion! Just ordered some for my AT...

 

[Alpine 338]

One thing I find, many people think any bore cleaner or copper remover needs to work in seconds. They are impatient, and dismiss good products like BoreTech Eliminator. They run wet patches, one after another quickly, and after four or five patches, they come out white, and they think their done. I let the Eliminator sit in my barrel for a few hours, and it's unbelievable how much more copper is still coming out of the barrel after a long soaking.

 

[Racer88]

One thing I find, many people think any bore cleaner or copper remover needs to work in seconds. They are impatient, and dismiss good products like BoreTech Eliminator. They run wet patches, one after another quickly, and after four or five patches, they come out white, and they think their done. I let the Eliminator sit in my barrel for a few hours, and it's unbelievable how much more copper is still coming out of the barrel after a long soaking.

So, the question is: Do we WANT / NEED to clean the bore THAT well? It seems the more I read, the more I see the suggestion that we don't want to necessarily clean the bore that well (or that often).