I won a free Proof carbon barrel that I'm unsure of what to do with...

4350muncher

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Dec 3, 2018
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Hello all, new member.
Over the summer I won a Proof Research carbon fiber barrel certificate at a prs match, so basically any barrel Proof sells, that I have been tormenting myself with trying to decide what caliber to go with for months. I could really use some advice from all the knowledgeable people on this site. I have an ar10 6.5 creedmoor, so i was considering the following options:
1) Getting another 6.5 creed barrel for the ar10
2) Getting a 6.5 creed barrel for a bolt build
3) 338 lapua for a magnum build
I reload and live in a rural area (Wyoming) so i do a decent amount of long range shooting and hunting.

I know theres not a 'right' answer but any advice would be great! Thank you in advance!
 
I like the ideas, and actually thought about the getting an AT or AX but they are price and kinda heavy for a CF barrel! I also thought about doing 300wm for a hunting rifle but the inner engineering in my doesnt want to get stuck shoot 30 cal bullets that have sub par ballistic coefficient
 
I like the ideas, and actually thought about the getting an AT or AX but they are price and kinda heavy for a CF barrel! I also thought about doing 300wm for a hunting rifle but the inner engineering in my doesnt want to get stuck shoot 30 cal bullets that have sub par ballistic coefficient

1 in 8 deep throat 230 Berger OTM. CIP length mags. Honestly any of the 200+ 30 cal bullets will give what you need inside of hunting ranges. One of my favorite loads is the 200ELD over 4831SC at 3000fps. Yes, it will kill something, prairie dogs anyway, I always take something smaller for eats.
 
Ive looked into it-pretty cool round, similar to the 30 nosler right?
What action would you go with if building from the ground up?

I would ask someone with more experience with the 300 PRC than me or almost anyone. @DAVETOOLEY...

But first lests assume you are taking the advice of building a hunting rifle. What are you going to hunt? Without knowing the purpose of the rifle it's hard to give accurate advice.
 
I would ask someone with more experience with the 300 PRC than me or almost anyone. @DAVETOOLEY...

But first lests assume you are taking the advice of building a hunting rifle. What are you going to hunt? Without knowing the purpose of the rifle it's hard to give accurate advice.

Well truth is I've never owned a caliber bigger than a 270/30-06/creedmoor. I should also make a point that I shoot the guns I have ALOT, my backyard is BLM so I am lucky enough to shoot whenever I want. I don't have an ultralight hunting rig, but I still want to beable to shoot this new gun alot without worry about it kicking my butt. I hunt elk and deer mostly.
If I go 300PRC do you think Ill be missing out on much compared to a 338lapua?
 
Well truth is I've never owned a caliber bigger than a 270/30-06/creedmoor. I should also make a point that I shoot the guns I have ALOT, my backyard is BLM so I am lucky enough to shoot whenever I want. I don't have an ultralight hunting rig, but I still want to beable to shoot this new gun alot without worry about it kicking my butt. I hunt elk and deer mostly.
If I go 300PRC do you think Ill be missing out on much compared to a 338lapua?

.30 Caliber will always have the accuracy advantage when compared to the 338. The 338 will transfer more energy to the Target at long distances. There is always a trade off, it's a matter of finding the right one for you.

I would never hunt with a 338 because it's overkill for my situation (probably most people's).
 
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Well truth is I've never owned a caliber bigger than a 270/30-06/creedmoor. I should also make a point that I shoot the guns I have ALOT, my backyard is BLM so I am lucky enough to shoot whenever I want. I don't have an ultralight hunting rig, but I still want to beable to shoot this new gun alot without worry about it kicking my butt. I hunt elk and deer mostly.
If I go 300PRC do you think Ill be missing out on much compared to a 338lapua?

I am currently building two 300prc rifles. One for a target gun and another for a hunting rifle. I own 300 win mags and 300 Norma mags. I wanted to get closer to the 300nm for elk and moose and the 300prc fits the bill.

If I was you I would sell the cert to someone looking for a AI prefit or alike. And you can find deals from Stockys on blanks for a fee hundred less then you can get for the cert.

I put in for my free barrel cert for my AXMC 3 months ago and still don't have it. So if your in any kind of rush, sell it and find an in-stock blank.
 
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I like the 28 nosler as well, but again it's about trade-offs. 30-caliber cartridge delivers more energy than a comparable 7mm cartridge. However, this increase in energy comes with an increase in recoil.

The 28 nosler's speed comes at the cost of barrel life.
 
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I've seen free stainless certs and 50% off carbon certs but never a free carbon cert. I sure hope you do have a free carbon cert and if you do then 7mm or 30cal hunter. Possibly 6.5 if not hunting game bigger than deer.
 
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Does anyone have recommendations as far as stocks/chassis go? I would want something that is light but not too light that I'm going to get my butt kicked shooting it?
Also as far as a CF barrel being ridge enough for a suppressor and mirage off the barrel, does anyone have experience on what to expect?
 
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Does anyone have recommendations as far as stocks/chassis go? I would want something that is light but not too light that I'm going to get my butt kicked shooting it?
Also as far as a CF barrel being ridge enough for a suppressor and mirage off the barrel, does anyone have experience on what to expect?

I’m about to put together a 28 Nosler with a proof barrel and a McMillan Game hunter. I’m hoping it comes in around 9lbs and all up around 11ish lbs.
 

My motto is buy once cry once, im a firm believer in quality gear-just not over priced gear. I'm expecting the total rifle build (excluding optics) to be around 3,500 by the time I factor in some shop fees, but like I said I've never built a bolt gun before so any advice is much appreciated
 
Perhaps a switch by Q... Around 3k, you can have another CF proof barrel made with your free cert. Get both a 28 nosler and 300 PRC. *End thread

Do you mean the fix by Q? They are working on a long action, I think, but it's not available currently and with their back log of work I doubt it will be any time soon.
 
Sorry switch by proof.. The fix by Q is on my short list and I'm drunk.

Great rifle but it's like $6k. I built basically the same rifle for $4k. Big Horn action, Proof barrel, Manners stock with CIP mini chassis, TT special.

OP I highly recommend this route. Get the proof for whatever caliber you want to hunt with, then get a steel barrel in whatever caliber you want to practice/target shoot with. I went with 28 Nosler and 6.5x55 swede (I don't have the access to the ranges it sounds like you can bang steel at), you could just as easily get a 300 PRC, 30 Nosler, 300 WM to target shoot with if you wanted to stretch it out.
 
Great rifle but it's like $6k. I built basically the same rifle for $4k. Big Horn action, Proof barrel, Manners stock with CIP mini chassis, TT special.

OP I highly recommend this route. Get the proof for whatever caliber you want to hunt with, then get a steel barrel in whatever caliber you want to practice/target shoot with. I went with 28 Nosler and 6.5x55 swede (I don't have the access to the ranges it sounds like you can bang steel at), you could just as easily get a 300 PRC, 30 Nosler, 300 WM to target shoot with if you wanted to stretch it out.

This sounds very interesting, are you able to quick change the barrels with your big horn action?? If so is there much rezeroing?
 
This sounds very interesting, are you able to quick change the barrels with your big horn action?? If so is there much rezeroing?

it's not "quick change" like on an AI or Desert Tech, but with a barrel vice, action wrench, and torque wrench, it takes about 5 min. tops. If you use a barrel nut it will take a little longer than with a shouldered barrel. I use shouldered barrels and made a line in pencil on the side of my action, then once the barrel is torqued down properly, made a corresponding pencil line on the barrel. so when I change barrels, I torque it and try to line it up as close to that witness mark as possible. The return to zero isn't exact, but it's real close. I usually shoot like 3 shots at 100, check POI adjust, shoot once or twice more and im done zeroing.
 
it's not "quick change" like on an AI or Desert Tech, but with a barrel vice, action wrench, and torque wrench, it takes about 5 min. tops. If you use a barrel nut it will take a little longer than with a shouldered barrel. I use shouldered barrels and made a line in pencil on the side of my action, then once the barrel is torqued down properly, made a corresponding pencil line on the barrel. so when I change barrels, I torque it and try to line it up as close to that witness mark as possible. The return to zero isn't exact, but it's real close. I usually shoot like 3 shots at 100, check POI adjust, shoot once or twice more and im done zeroing.
Did you go origin or nueclous? Also would using an Arc Barloc type system be of any advantage or would your system maybe be a more robust design?
 
Do you need/want a fast .300? Or would a smaller bullet serve you better?
For a fast .300, I'd consider .300 Norma Magnum, too.
perttime- I've got a creedmore for the smaller bullets, but thats in a gas gun and I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable making a shot at an animal past 4-500 yards with it even though its a tackdriver out to (and past if I do my part) 1000yrds. The only thing I dont love about a fast 30 cal is a 'short' barrel life but I can deal with that, what are you fellas shooting in Finland for long range?
 
... what are you fellas shooting in Finland for long range?
Thing is, there's no opportunities for real long range in my part of the country - except if you have access to a "large" farmer's field or a military area. The longest I have easy access to is 300 meters. Going beyond that takes travel. Most get by with .308 or various 6.5mm chamberings. Many who have real long range opportunities go for .338LM.
 
Did you go origin or nueclous? Also would using an Arc Barloc type system be of any advantage or would your system maybe be a more robust design?

I went with the TL3, couldn't be happier with it. I'm not real familiar with the barlock, so can't really comment on it. Shouldered barrels are "simpler" just less parts than using a barlock. Feel free to DM me if you have any more detailed questions, I am by no means an expert but am happy to pass along my experiences.
 
I have decided to get an AI AT in 6.5 creedmoor,
Proof offers a 6.5 PRC barrel for the AI AT, will the PRC fit in the AI short action??
Also where might one get a magnum bolt for this action??
Thanks in advance