If I don’t want the multi caliber change is a Cadex/MRAD worth it

[TheDude219]

I would like the heavy chassis systems for a 300 Norma or 300 prc but I don’t want to change calibers. Is it worth going with them? If not what good builders should I look at?

Accuracy and reliability are primary desires.

Looking in the Px for a used one too, but don’t see too many options.

Thanks

 

[HMRamateur]

Cadex offers other rifles like the CDX-300/CDX-33 or long action R7's that aren't quick change.

https://charliescustomclones.com/cadex-cdx-300-tac-series-rifle-customized-to-your-specs-cdx300-tac/

 

[diggler1833]

I did some load development for my buddy's MRAD SMR in 300NM a couple months ago.

When he dropped off the rifle, all he had was 215gr Berger Hybrids and H1000. Load development was about as quick as anything I've ever done. By my third seating depth test group I printed a sub half-minute group. I tried that depth again with the same result. I tried it again at 385 yards and got the same result again. Done. His SMR is a hammer, and it was a blast shooting it ...even busted a coyote with it one morning.

I think he paid ~$4,500 or so for the rifle. For a 300NM custom build, it will cost anywhere from $3,500 - double that, depending on parts selected.

Don't forget that those big 300s go through barrels pretty quickly...so make sure you're comfortable with how they'll get swapped out before you buy. For that reason I'd probably go custom if I were doing one.

 

[Huskydriver]

Mrads are garbage

AI or cadex or gtfo

 

[Maurygold]

Build a gun. They all have mediocre triggers even after very expensive upgrades. Who wants to spend 5-6k and have a mediocre trigger??

I like the Cadex chassis best if you build but if you really don’t want to build one - AI.

 

[Huskydriver]

Build a gun. They all have mediocre triggers even after very expensive upgrades. Who wants to spend 5-6k and have a mediocre trigger??

I like the Cadex chassis best if you build but if you really don’t want to build one - AI.

View attachment 8416832

Wtf are you smoking? The cadex two stage and AI og 2 stage are 2 of the best triggers ever made along with the trg

 

[mr_fullmetal]

I don’t have much experience with the MRAD but when I was is the sandbox I did see a couple Cadex rifles being used by Canadian SOF. They worked but most guys preferred the AI’s. TRG’s were pretty popular too with European SOF teams. Those guns were chambered in 300wm if that matters.

 

[rustyinbend]

I absolutely LOVE my MRAD in 300-PRC, 300-NM, and 338-LM ... that said, the real value here that justifies the ridiculous price is the quick-change barrel systems. If you're not going there, I'd buy a stand-alone rifle system, with my best recommendation being MPA ... I have three of them and they're awesome.

 

[psharon78]

I went custom for my 300 Norma. It came out cheaper

Mausingfield receiver
Huber 2 stage trigger
Bugnut barrel
McMillan A6 PRS stock

 

[Dirty D]

Mrads are garbage

AI or cadex or gtfo

If the German wasn’t busy being so fat and so German he would be having a soft taco level tantrum right now.

 

[Huskydriver]

I absolutely LOVE my MRAD in 300-PRC, 300-NM, and 338-LM ... that said, the real value here that justifies the ridiculous price is the quick-change barrel systems. If you're not going there, I'd buy a stand-alone rifle system, with my best recommendation being MPA ... I have three of them and they're awesome.

You also change scopes with each barrel which 100% negates the barrel feature of the mrad don't forget to disclose that lol

 

[rustyinbend]

You also change scopes with each barrel which 100% negates the barrel feature of the mrad don't forget to disclose that lol

That's a "choice" and an "expense" ... not a "requirement". I have the ability, resources, and desire to do that ... it's definitely not necessary to shoot an MRAD with more than one barrel. You seem mildly obsessed with my use of multiple scopes on my MRAD. Are you too poor to do that, or just fundamentally against the practice for some material reason? Were you maybe abused by a scope earlier in your life?

 

[Taylorbok]

You also change scopes with each barrel which 100% negates the barrel feature of the mrad don't forget to disclose that lol

Why would you have to change scopes with the barrel?

 

[Huskydriver]

That's a "choice" and an "expense" ... not a "requirement". I have the ability, resources, and desire to do that ... it's definitely not necessary to shoot an MRAD with more than one barrel. You seem mildly obsessed with my use of multiple scopes on my MRAD. Are you too poor to do that, or just fundamentally against the practice for some material reason? Were you maybe abused by a scope earlier in your life?

I just think it's an absolute riot scooter

 

[rustyinbend]

Why would you have to change scopes with the barrel?

Different zero ... I'm lazy, I like not having to re-zero every time I change barrels.

 

[rustyinbend]

I just think it's an absolute riot scooter

We had a Corgi named "Scooter" ... he was an awesome dog.

 

[rustyinbend]

I just think it's an absolute riot scooter

You're easily entertained ... I like that. I've got some "Dad-Jokes" I'll send in a PM. LOL

 

[Taylorbok]

Different zero ... I'm lazy, I like not having to re-zero every time I change barrels.

Icic, so it's a choice. Is everything actually repeatable enough that you can do that? I'd have thought you'd still have enough shift after swapping everything you'd have to adjust zero anyway? (even just slightly)
I run 3 different barrels on one of my rifles and when I change it's usually only a few clicks difference. Could even just put a zero offset into the kestrel if you wanted. I usually have just as much shift taking the scope and mount off and re installing.

 

[brianf]

You won’t change “bolt faces” after a while and you’ll wind up having more than one..which ever you choose.

But you will have a dedicated long/magnum and short action sooner or later.

Thats when you’ll start trying different cartridges because barrels are the easy button

 

[Maurygold]

Icic, so it's a choice. Is everything actually repeatable enough that you can do that? I'd have thought you'd still have enough shift after swapping everything you'd have to adjust zero anyway? (even just slightly)
I run 3 different barrels on one of my rifles and when I change it's usually only a few clicks difference. Could even just put a zero offset into the kestrel if you wanted. I usually have just as much shift taking the scope and mount off and re installing.

I've taken my badger mount on and off at 600 yards on shot marker and saw virtually zero shift. Just make sure to place it back in the same spot and give it a little rearward bump from the should pad before torquing all the way (same for the barrel into a stock to set the lug well).

That said I would just run the kestrel offset if I was swapping.

 

[rustyinbend]

Icic, so it's a choice. Is everything actually repeatable enough that you can do that? I'd have thought you'd still have enough shift after swapping everything you'd have to adjust zero anyway? (even just slightly)
I run 3 different barrels on one of my rifles and when I change it's usually only a few clicks difference. Could even just put a zero offset into the kestrel if you wanted. I usually have just as much shift taking the scope and mount off and re installing.

When I change barrel and scope, I'm rarely more than about 1/2 MOA from center bullseye. When using the same scope, the POI shift is always much more than that. Could I use the same scope, log my POI shift, and adjust to it? Absolutely. But I have the spare scopes on hand to not have to deal with that. I like locking in the zero on my Leupold MK5-HD's (I have six of them), and just leaving zero alone. That's why I do this. It's actually allowed me to change barrels mid-match, and hit 1,000 yard targets on the first shot after a barrel change. Are their other ways to do that? Absolutely. I just choose the easier way. BTW ... having high quality QR mounts is a must for this to work. Mine are all from ADM, and their ability to go on and off and on again while preserving zero, is excellent.

 

[Taylorbok]

I've taken my badger mount on and off at 600 yards on shot marker and saw virtually zero shift. Just make sure to place it back in the same spot and give it a little rearward bump from the should pad before torquing all the way (same for the barrel into a stock to set the lug well).

That said I would just run the kestrel offset if I was swapping.

having high quality QR mounts is a must for this to work. Mine are all from ADM, and their ability to go on and off and on again while preserving zero, is excellent.

That's interesting. I have the MDT and ARC one piece mounts and I always seem to have some sort of shift when I take off and re install.

 

[rustyinbend]

That's interesting. I have the MDT and ARC one piece mounts and I always seem to have some sort of shift when I take off and re install.

Are those "quick release" mounts, or do you have to unscrew to remove the mount?

 

[Taylorbok]

Are those "quick release" mounts, or do you have to unscrew to remove the mount?

They are not QD, there is bolts and nuts

 

[Maurygold]

the rearward bump is important for the lugs to set. I have had the best luck with my badger max, the spuhr and MPA were also very good (actual 1/2 moa).

I also, as a rule of thumb, set my mount so that the last pic rail opening is always exposed. This has saved me a bunch when I do need to remove them.

 

[Taylorbok]

the rearward bump is important for the lugs to set. I have had the best luck with my badger max, the spuhr and MPA were also very good (actual 1/2 moa).

I also, as a rule of thumb, set my mount so that the last pic rail opening is always exposed. This has saved me a bunch when I do need to remove them.

Ya I always do the bump. I have mine set so the back cross bolt is in the last slot.

 

[rustyinbend]

They are not QD, there is bolts and nuts

I also struggled with zero when I had screw-on mounts. Then on a buddy's recommendation, I tried the ADM QR mounts and they were awesome. Three rules (1) always use the same slot on the pic-rail, (2) always push the scope forward tightly in the rail before closing the QR lever, and (3) make sure the levers are nice and snug ... almost "difficult" to close.

But it's really important that you not let @Huskydriver know that you're doing this ... it upsets him so let's just keep this between you and me.

 

[hafejd30]

Only you can decide if it’s worth it for your uses. The ability to change a barrel is great for several reasons. Installing a new one being the most popular.

It also allows you to make the rifle more compact (maybe great for flying or longer travels), Removing the barrel for cleaning and measuring OAL and trying different calibers or doing load development on new barrels while still shooting out the old one.

The accuracy and reliability come down to the platform. All these will be plenty accurate and repeatable for your use and since you’re not removing the barrel very much you don’t have to worry about shifts. But those are minor either way.

I could see the arguments above for different optics (not that the op asked about it). One heavy setup with a ZCO/atacr/razor etc. Then another trimmed down for hunting or something similar. A 3-18 scope on a 18” barrel. Personally if I was swapping between similar setups I would just mark the offset down or have a tool less zero which are available in several scopes now

I can say this. If you have an itch for a MRAD/Cadex/AI it will eventually get you to buy one. I went through several platforms (savage/R700/GAP in a Cadex) etc. I wanted an AI but didn’t want to spend the $$ as I wasn’t sure it was worth it. So I lost money trying different platforms and chassis to eventually get what I really wanted which was an AI

I don’t swap barrels often. But I do like the ability to go from 260 to 308 in a minute or two. One setup for long range target and one for hunting. I can pull barrels for cleaning for maintenance. I can pick up barrels here in the px all day for decent prices if I want. Stuff like that may or may not be worth it to you down the road

I’ll second that the two stage triggers in these rifles (AI at least) are some of the best I’ve used. I do like my trigger tech as well though

Let’s not forget to add that there’s just a cool factor to owning a switch barrel setup like the AI/DT/Cadex or MRAD. Personally I find the traditional setups which I still have many of relatively boring in comparison to my AI’s. I also have the benefit of using double stack mags, 60° throw and built like a tank features. All of which you can find in custom setups as well I’m sure.

You can get more refined going the custom route. In regards to the triggers, chassis and actions. With the factory switch barrel setups you’re more stuck with that platform. So if you dislike the ergonomics of it you can’t do much about it. I sold my AXMC because it didn’t care for the ergonomics in comparison to my AT and ATX

You can change barrels with a few tools and some disassembly with the other setups as well. But my AI can do it in minutes, on my tailgate, with a Allen wrench stored on the rifle

 

[rustyinbend]

Only you can decide if it’s worth it for your uses. The ability to change a barrel is great for several reasons. Installing a new one being the most popular.

It also allows you to make the rifle more compact (maybe great for flying or longer travels), Removing the barrel for cleaning and measuring OAL and trying different calibers or doing load development on new barrels while still shooting out the old one.

The accuracy and reliability come down to the platform. All these will be plenty accurate and repeatable for your use and since you’re not removing the barrel very much you don’t have to worry about shifts. But those are minor either way.

I could see the arguments above for different optics (not that the op asked about it). One heavy setup with a ZCO/atacr/razor etc. Then another trimmed down for hunting or something similar. A 3-18 scope on a 18” barrel. Personally if I was swapping between similar setups I would just mark the offset down or have a tool less zero which are available in several scopes now

I can say this. If you have an itch for a MRAD/Cadex/AI it will eventually get you to buy one. I went through several platforms (savage/R700/GAP in a Cadex) etc. I wanted an AI but didn’t want to spend the $$ as I wasn’t sure it was worth it. So I lost money trying different platforms and chassis to eventually get what I really wanted which was an AI

I don’t swap barrels often. But I do like the ability to go from 260 to 308 in a minute or two. One setup for long range target and one for hunting. I can pull barrels for cleaning for maintenance. I can pick up barrels here in the px all day for decent prices if I want. Stuff like that may or may not be worth it to you down the road

I’ll second that the two stage triggers in these rifles (AI at least) are some of the best I’ve used. I do like my trigger tech as well though

Excellent summary. I'd add that I wish I'd bought my MRAD "first". If I had, I probably would have saved a lot of money on rifles that I wouldn't have bought, and simply invested in MRAD barrel kits instead.

 

[kthomas]

Excellent summary. I'd add that I wish I'd bought my MRAD "first". If I had, I probably would have saved a lot of money on rifles that I wouldn't have bought, and simply invested in MRAD barrel kits instead.

That's how it goes in the precision rifle world usually.

Takes several iterations, whether you build or buy factory, before you find something that you are truly settled with.

My customs went through several iterations before I was finally happy.

 

[_Windrider_]

Don’t want……..yet.

FIFY. You will.

 

[hafejd30]

That's how it goes in the precision rifle world usually.

Takes several iterations, whether you build or buy factory, before you find something that you are truly settled with.

My customs went through several iterations before I was finally happy.

100%

What a shooter uses the rifle for or migrates to while shooting often determines where they end up.

Example:

Start off with a 300 Norma. Then you decide you want a 6.5 barrel/bolt setup to shoot the same rifle cheaper when you only shoot to the 600-1000 yard range 90% of the time. Or go from only shooting prone with your buddies to doing positional shooting on the clock.

My AIAT with thumbhole stock gets used more than any rifle in my arsenal. Which includes a mixture of mainly AI and Tikkas. With a few savages, rugers and Bergaras mixed in. Also a fclass rifle and a few customs I’ve bought and sold over the years. A mixture of chassis including AI, Cadex, MPA, XLR, MDT, Ashbury, KRG and a couple others

The AT is the only system which since day 1 that I’ve owned it I haven’t had the urge to change anything on. My others I’m constantly tinkering with chassis/stocks/triggers and what not just never completely happy for whatever reason.

I’ve added things like Arca rail and swapped through several optics before settling on ZCO but the overall layout of the rifle remains the same

 

[hairy_pineapple588]

Build a gun. They all have mediocre triggers even after very expensive upgrades. Who wants to spend 5-6k and have a mediocre trigger??

I like the Cadex chassis best if you build but if you really don’t want to build one - AI.

View attachment 8416832

Is there any way to put a pic rail on that forend?

 

[Maurygold]

Is there any way to put a pic rail on that forend?

Yes. They make a rail for it but you have to have it tapped.

This is my favorite chassis. Way better than ai which is way better than mrad.

 

[HMRamateur]

Is there any way to put a pic rail on that forend?

That chassis looks like the competition chassis, but you can get the lite strike, dual strike, or field tactical which all have the top rail included. Very minimal difference otherwise between their chassis except for a few options here or there.

 

[hafejd30]

I had a Cadex on my 300 WM GAP rifle a while back. Nice chassis. Definitely sexy looking!

 

[Taylorbok]

I also struggled with zero when I had screw-on mounts.

I re-cant my statement. I must have also been playing with something else when I re mounted my scope last time. I went out with both scopes and mounts. zero'd them both and then swapped back and forth and they both seemed to retain zero very well