If you were going to build a .308 tactical....

[Pewjumper]

If you were going to build a tactical .308 or long range target rifle in .308 what would your build consist of in componenet parts? Would you consider buying a built rifle from AI, Snyder, Surgeon or others?

All opinions are welcome if they backed up by personal experience!

This is my first build and everything is expensive and in most cases accompanied with a long wait. I would like to benefit from all your experience, that way I don't make expensive and time consuming errors!

I am choosing .308 because I have a pof308 and a 30-06, that makes ammo easier with reloading, along with other factors.

Thanks much, and God Bless

Sonny

 

[deadly0311]

Sako TRG 22 or AI AE/AW/AX

I started like you and had guns built till I was blue in the face. Once I got my first AI it just felt "right".

Having someone spin up a bartlein/kreiger/broughton etc is awesome with the AI system

 

[Bradu]

Sako TRG 22 or AI AE/AW/AX

I started like you and had guns built till I was blue in the face. Once I got my first AI it just felt "right".

Having someone spin up a bartlein/kreiger/broughton etc is awesome with the AI system

I have to agree with the AI, best feeling rifle I own. I am about to sell a custom so I can get an AIAE in a .260. If I didn't go with an AI, I would go with RWS. I have had him build a couple rifles and bought another one he built and have been very happy with the quality and service.

 

[Papa Zero Three]

Just had it barreled and assembled by Phoenix Custom Rifles.Most will probably recommend a 24" or longer barrel but that is your decision/preference but anything longer than 24" IMO, is no longer really tactical as it is impractical to carry in the field. Chassis or stock is also your personal preference.

Bighorn action and lug with Bighorn 20 MOA base
Timney trigger
Bartlein 5R 1/10 twist , M24 contour,20" threaded 5/8-24, cerekoted FDE
AICS 1.5 chassis with Viperskins and QD attachments
USO 3.2-17 with Larue QD mount
Harris Bipod
TAB RAS Sling

 

[Bear24]

If you are not wanting to pony up the money for an AI or similar price point. I would really look hard at the FN SPR's. I have the A1 so I'm a little bias but it shoots lights out with just a bedding job and some good glass. They come up used fairly often and I wouldn't hesitate to buy one used as they should hold < 1MOA or most likely better for 10k+ rounds.

 

[JB02]

Since you want to "build" I guess that means you're not looking for high end factory. I'll tell you what I would build, but keep in mind an AIAX. I also highly recommend buying a rifle directly from Surgeon Rifles. I have done this and they do a great job. They have a few 308s for sale. If you get one from them you know that you're doing it right the first time.

For an action I would get Defiance's new "Deviant" because it comes with and integral recoil lug and picatinny scope rail. I go with this because Surgeon's actions are unobtainium at the moment.

For a trigger I would go with a Jewell or a tuned Remington (I love my Jewell trigger but many on this forum poo-poo them). Perhaps I would be willing to try a Huber 2 stage if that's what my other rifles used.

For a stock I would go for a Manners T3 or a McMillan A1-3 depending on lead time. I go non-adjustable because I adjust comb height with a triad stock pack. I'm a fan of desert cammo patterns. The stock would have LHS flush cups and a picatinny rail on the forearm for an atlas bipod.

Surgeon Bottom metal is the best way to go; if it was hard to get I might go with APA's too.

For a barrel I would go for a 22" 1/11 twist Bartlein with an M40/M24 contour. If Bartlein isn't available, then substitute Krieger, Rock Creek, Brux, or Broughton.

I would thread the barrel with a Badger Thruster muzzle brake, 5/8x24, with a thread protector. That would suit a suppressor in the future.

I would have all metal cerakoted FDE or "patriot brown" and the action and bottom metal would be bedded into the stock.

I would go with either Moon from Crescent Customs or Mark Gordon from SAC to do the gun smithing. If I was going to send it to Mark Gordon, I would seriously consider having the barreled action melonited.

Hope this provides you some ideas.

 

[K_4c]

*Badger M2008/2013, surgeon or big horn tactical would be my choice of action. I run two badger m2008 actions (.260 and .308), the only thing I don't like is the somewhat heavy bolt lift...

*Manners TF1 gap camo with mini chassis/atlas bipod.

*Timney or Jewel trigger (the Huber 2 stage is growing on me tho).

*Seekins or badger rings

*Kreiger or Bartlein (20-24", m24/m40 threaded).

*glass.... Sky is the limit but I highly recommend that your reticle match your adjustments.... life's too short to run mil/moa or vice versa shit).

Find yourself a known smith (Gap, SAC, APA, Beanland, etc)

BOOM! You got a kick ass stick.

 

[Icallem]

JSTARZS and I were talking the other day about this very thing. "What would we do if looking for our first long range / tactial rifle if we knew what we do now about the rifle building process?" We both thought we would look over the firearms for sale section and find something that would work, shoot it some then maybe order something, maybe not if what we had found was working. This based in a large part to the time to consider in the build process.

Get something in your hands, then after finding out what you want / need, order something from one of the best builders you can find and when it is finished, sell the one you bought used, or have an additional rifle.

Unless time means nothing to you, the wait on a build can get to anyone on the first rifle. It does seem to get better after the first one.


Good luck with this.

 

[Will Fennell]

Do yourself a favor and get familiar with a TRG22 before you spend a lot of time and treasure building a custom .308.

 

[Matthewb45]

If this is your first build i would start of with a good base a Remington has lots of parts and is customizable see if you are gunna shoot the thing and find out how much...If it is your first you wouldn't be disappointed or broke whether you decide to custom it out or find out you don't have the time, money, ect..... I would start with a Remington SPS in 308 go from there stock or trigger first then Maybe a new barrel maybe you decide you'd rather shoot 6.5x47 Lapua or something else i have just done this i know what i want NOW i just had my SPS turned into a T/R rifle and i will have another rifle build after this. And now i know what i want and looking for plus Ive had some of the work done a liitle at a time so work done so i don't have to Forrest Gump my way through a couple gunsmiths...love that movie..sorry of subject, but yea that's what Ive done and looking back cant say i would have done anything different plus you don't have to come up with a lump sum. Do it as you can. That my 2 cents hope it helps. Matt

 

[rdinak]

dude this is easy.
Go to the local pawn shop, arms list, coworker needing money-Pick up used Remington 700 SA-the older the better. I prefer C series and earlier. Trip the stock and factory barrel. In my part of the country this can be done for less than 350.00
Go to Grizzly or Bugholes and pick up the barrel of your choice
Send the action and barrel to Chad at Long Rifles. Get in on the tail end of the group buy. Go for the full Monty...
On the Stock I would keep my eyes peeled for a Manners with the chassis or a used McMillan.

Through in Seekings scope mount and rings to keep the weight down, and hen scour the classified ads for nice Nightforce scope.

Building your first rifle is a dangerous trip to the dark side....you will soon want another one..

Or just watch the classified ads for someone getting out of shooting or wanting to change their gear. Cash is king and deals are to be had every week in the classified section.

 

[hewlett260]

AI(AW) + Nightforce = F*#king Perfect. Ask me how I know? Except I went with a 260 because I hate the wind.

 

[fdkay]

You have many excellent options.
You can buy high end factory like the AI and TRG.
You can go custom on a 700 action or on a custom action.

Everything is decided by the thickness of your wallet.

You could build a no frills absolute hammer, for around 1800 bones.
You could spruce it up with some upgrades for anywhere from another 150 to 1000 dollars.

basic remington BDL SA with .473 bolt face - 570 bucks
quality match grade barrel - 335
new lug - 35
true action & install barrel - 300
B&C light tactical or M40 stock - 230
Timney 512vtrigger - 140
quality 20 MOA base - 135

Total for no frills rifle that will shoot lights out - 1735

Change to a chassis system like XLR - remington ADL - 380 (saving 190 on action)
XLR chassis - 750

Total - 2075

Add side bolt release if you want one - 140 bucks

You can go balls to the walls with a custom action for around 3500 to 3600

Check RW Snyder Gunsmithing, he has some awesome packages, as does Short Action Customs and several other fine smiths here on the hide.

 

[Bruiser_Joe]

PEW PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF GOD GO SHOOT SOME OTHER PEOPLE"S GUNS BEFORE YOU BUILD! some people just can't get used to AI stocks, same with TRG's, etc. it will save you the pain of figuring that out after you purchased it if you can get behind one for yourself. Action aside the biggest thing i tell you is find what kind of stock you prefer. if you like pistol grips like ar's then you have plenty of options between AI, cadex, whiskey 3, XLR, tube chassis, mcree, etc that will give you a similar feel, if you like thumbhole then look at AI, KMW, Manners t5a. if a more conventional stock fits your fancy then have fun cuz there are plenty. Money is the biggest driving factor to any build. You can have a "budget" type FN, Rem, savage built in a nice stock all the way up to the nicer surgeon, defiance, stiller, badger, BAT, actioned builds. then you can get into the factory offerings like AI, TRG, DTA, mcmillan, PGW, etc. Look around, READ ALOT. the internet is a amazing place for info but since everyone is on it and has a voice take what advice you use with a grain of salt. I know for a fact calling people like GAP, Surgeon, Black ops, Mile High, Phoenix, APA, Chad Dixon, etc they will also be more then happy to talk you through options as well from a much more knowledgable base of information.

ok i'm done

for more info read ALL OF THIS:
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...7-**-getting-started-lr-shooting-faqs-**.html

 

[hypno02]

aiae mkiii and be done with it. if i could start over thats what I would do

 

[308Hunter]

Savage 10 With the factory heavy barrel. Mcmillan A4 stock and your pick of mid th high end scope. I've placed well here and there at matches with this setup.

 

[garandman]

I'd get the same thing I got - DPMS LR-308 semi-auto, rebarrelled with a Fulton Armory barrel. With a Ops Inc 12th model suppressor.

Since the gun shoots half MoA and better, I don't see any reason to get a bolt gun. Unless that's whatcha REALLY want.

To me, "tactical" guns are more about speed than blistering accuracy. Half minute accuracy, in semi auto? Yeah....

 

[Papa Zero Three]

To me, "tactical" guns are more about speed than blistering accuracy

Like I tell the students in my pistol and carbine classes, "you can't miss fast enough". Speed is fine but accuracy is final. It sounds like you are more concerned with suppressive fire than accuracy.

 

[garandman]

Like I tell the students in my pistol and carbine classes, "you can't miss fast enough". Speed is fine but accuracy is final. It sounds like you are more concerned with suppressive fire than accuracy.

I guess I mean to say BOTH are necessary in a "tactical" gun - a half minute semi-auto gun is both fast and accurate. VERY quick follow up shots. Semi let's you stay into the gun, where cycling the bolt will make all but the very well trained lift their head off the gun.

Truthfully, 98% of the people here could get away with single feed rifles. "Tactical" is a completely different set of requirements that in reality only a very few will actually utilize.

My point really is that semi s/n/b overlooked, here.

My understanding of "suppressive fire" is full auto / belt fed guns - not semis with long range scopes.

 

[buggsb]

If you are not wanting to pony up the money for an AI or similar price point. I would really look hard at the FN SPR's. I have the A1 so I'm a little bias but it shoots lights out with just a bedding job and some good glass. They come up used fairly often and I wouldn't hesitate to buy one used as they should hold < 1MOA or most likely better for 10k+ rounds.

I'd have to second this recommendation. Every one of these I have shot is super accurate right out of the box. It would be hard to make any significant improvements over a stock FN.

 

[Randoman5]

I'd get the same thing I got - DPMS LR-308 semi-auto, rebarrelled with a Fulton Armory barrel. With a Ops Inc 12th model suppressor.

Since the gun shoots half MoA and better, I don't see any reason to get a bolt gun. Unless that's whatcha REALLY want.

To me, "tactical" guns are more about speed than blistering accuracy. Half minute accuracy, in semi auto? Yeah....

All questions of speed aside, all accounts say DPMS rifles shoot lights out and I can't find a rifle with better consistently reported accuracy for less money. There's not reason you can't shoot it just as slowly as a bolt action rifle.

The way I look at it a rifle is a tool for putting bullets where you want them downrange and how it accomplishes this is secondary. Not to mention you avoid most of the ergonomic and stock bedding issues that are inherent and inherently expensive in bolt guns.

 

[LRJammer]

aiae mkiii and be done with it. if i could start over thats what I would do

This. The only way to go.

 

[Pusher591]

Just so you know, Mark @ Short Action Customs builds are running at 6-10 weeks per his website. His stuff is top notch as well. His new Alpha 11 Integral action is bad, he's currently building me a 6.5 Creedmoor comp gun. He built me a 308 shorty a few years ago that was a 1/4 MOA gun.

 

[Low_drag]

For starters, I wouldn't go with a 308. Hence I just got finished with a .260 build. Go 6.5CM or .260 Rem, why go with the Mustang when you can have a Ferrari.

 

[Prophet78]

Do you have any experience with long range shooting? Reloading? Its all conjecture unless we know what you want to do. First build, everyone always recommends something from a Rem 700 or a Savage 10/110.

 

[chainring]

BigHorn receiver
Bartlein 1-10 twist 16.25 incher
APA knob
Rock Solid stock

Built by Mark at SAC
I love...LOVE...this rifle.

 

[mumford]

which offset sight is that? Does it work on the rock solid stock; I mean when you cant the rifle?

 

[Papa Zero Three]

chainring, that is one good looking rig you have there.

 

[chainring]

which offset sight is that? Does it work on the rock solid stock; I mean when you cant the rifle?

Thanks, Papa Zero Three.

Mumford, those are Dueck Defense "Rapid Transition Sights." Because the receiver rail and Rock Solid chassis forend NVD rail are on the same plane, they work great. Rear aperture is very nearly centered, and front post is about the normal elevation. I set them up for a 25 yard zero. I wanted to use the 2.5-10 Nightforce, but the higher magnification made it hard to find a fast-moving hog in the underbrush, before he got out of sight. The offsets fix that. Only catch is that the profile of the underside of the front sight was a little too full to saddle down onto the NVD rail without hitting the body of the NVD rail between the top rail and the side rail. A couple of minutes on the grinder removed a little material from the RTS and settled it right down, though. Very fast setup now.

Dueck Defense : RTS Offset Gun Sight for Military & LE Tactical And 3 Gun Competition Gun Sight System

I wanted to use the KAC folding offsets, but the aperture on the rear sight is too small to mount ahead of the ejection port, the way I did with the RTS.

 

[clayne_b]

I would start with a Rem 700 SPS Varmint
Drop it in your choice of stock. I went with a McRees
Put a trigger in it, I did Timney, But if I had it to do over again I would go Jewel after shooting a friends rifle with one in it.

Down the road if you want higher performance, have it a new barrel put on it.

But it might surprise you how well a factory rifle can and will shoot.



Cold Bore Challenge Day#19 - YouTube

 

[vszero]

I would start with a Rem 700 SPS Varmint
Drop it in your choice of stock. I went with a McRees
Put a trigger in it, I did Timney, But if I had it to do over again I would go Jewel after shooting a friends rifle with one in it.

Down the road if you want higher performance, have it a new barrel put on it.

But it might surprise you how well a factory rifle can and will shoot.

what is your moa with factory barrel, i am thinking about which to get new barrel or not for my adl .308

 

[Papa Zero Three]

what is your moa with factory barrel, i am thinking about which to get new barrel or not for my adl .308

don't get a new barrel until you've shot the factory one out. If you're gonna change a factory barrel out for an aftermarket one you might as well go ahead and have the action trued at the same time. Unless you have money to burn, it makes sense to use what you have now with the factory gun until you're ready to move up to truing and a new barrel.

As a comment, I would not recommend a Jewel trigger on a tactical build. There are numerous threads on "why" and the short version consensus is that while being a good trigger, they are too finicky when it comes to the dirt/dust found in a tactical/practical environment and it causes issues with reliability. As soon as I post this I am sure someone will chime in contradicting this so again I point you to do a search and read the existing threads on the topic so not to hijack this thread.

 

[acts238]

Savage FCP
and used NF
comes with a decent stock & a sweeeet 2 stage trigger

 

[vszero]

don't get a new barrel until you've shot the factory one out. If you're gonna change a factory barrel out for an aftermarket one you might as well go ahead and have the action trued at the same time. Unless you have money to burn, it makes sense to use what you have now with the factory gun until you're ready to move up to truing and a new barrel.

As a comment, I would not recommend a Jewel trigger on a tactical build. There are numerous threads on "why" and the short version consensus is that while being a good trigger, they are too finicky when it comes to the dirt/dust found in a tactical/practical environment and it causes issues with reliability. As soon as I post this I am sure someone will chime in contradicting this so again I point you to do a search and read the existing threads on the topic so not to hijack this thread.

i do plan to true the action by phoenix custom

 

[clayne_b]

It shoots in the .3 moa quite often from 100 - 500 yards With hand loads

 

[Randoman5]

don't get a new barrel until you've shot the factory one out. If you're gonna change a factory barrel out for an aftermarket one you might as well go ahead and have the action trued at the same time. Unless you have money to burn, it makes sense to use what you have now with the factory gun until you're ready to move up to truing and a new barrel.

As a comment, I would not recommend a Jewel trigger on a tactical build. There are numerous threads on "why" and the short version consensus is that while being a good trigger, they are too finicky when it comes to the dirt/dust found in a tactical/practical environment and it causes issues with reliability. As soon as I post this I am sure someone will chime in contradicting this so again I point you to do a search and read the existing threads on the topic so not to hijack this thread.

Shooting out a factory .308 barrel costs somewhere between 5 and 10 thousand dollars even if you use handloads. This means that for for most people you're shooting a rifle for years which has questionable accuracy and prevents you from knowing whether you've reached your limits or the rifle's.

How does that benefit anyone?

 

[bh-ltr]

Shooting out a factory .308 barrel costs somewhere between 5 and 10 thousand dollars even if you use handloads. This means that for for most people you're shooting a rifle for years which has questionable accuracy and prevents you from knowing whether you've reached your limits or the rifle's.

How does that benefit anyone?

I thought about swapping the barrel out on my LTR several times before it needed it. I'd been talked out of it several times. After I swapped it all into an AICS stock and got some really great results at my last class I'm really happy with the rifle. I've gained a lot of knowledge shooting it as is and I've gotten a lot more value out of the barrel on it than I could have. Personally I'm thankful that it shoots as well as it does and I'm going to keep on having fun with her until she gives it up.

~Brett

 

[bh-ltr]

don't get a new barrel until you've shot the factory one out. If you're gonna change a factory barrel out for an aftermarket one you might as well go ahead and have the action trued at the same time. Unless you have money to burn, it makes sense to use what you have now with the factory gun until you're ready to move up to truing and a new barrel.

As a comment, I would not recommend a Jewel trigger on a tactical build. There are numerous threads on "why" and the short version consensus is that while being a good trigger, they are too finicky when it comes to the dirt/dust found in a tactical/practical environment and it causes issues with reliability. As soon as I post this I am sure someone will chime in contradicting this so again I point you to do a search and read the existing threads on the topic so not to hijack this thread.

At my most recent class there was a guy with a Jewell trigger who had one AD during a speed round and then later after doing a few dives into the firing position he had a failure to discharge. The trigger would not break. That evening he took the gun apart and ran some lighter fluid through the trigger and put it all back together and all was fine again but he was shut down during the day. They feel great but they don't like dirt.

~Brett

 

[Papa Zero Three]

Shooting out a factory .308 barrel costs somewhere between 5 and 10 thousand dollars even if you use handloads. This means that for for most people you're shooting a rifle for years which has questionable accuracy and prevents you from knowing whether you've reached your limits or the rifle's.

How does that benefit anyone?

How you ask? At the risk of sounding like Cpt Obvious here, the answer is practice. If the factory barrel is delivering good, consistent groups there is no reason to not shoot it for what it is worth. Why throw away a perfectly good barrel? Do I REALLY need to explain this further or are you splitting hairs?

 

[Randoman5]

How you ask? At the risk of sounding like Cpt Obvious here, the answer is practice. If the factory barrel is delivering good, consistent groups there is no reason to not shoot it for what it is worth. Why throw away a perfectly good barrel? Do I REALLY need to explain this further or are you splitting hairs?

I guess if you have lucked out and got a good factory barrel and it's shooting the way you want it to that's true. I'm weighing my options for my first precision rifle and playing Remington Roulette doesn't seem all that appealing. I suppose if you get a factory rifle that provides the results you desire you should stick with it. Based on the reviews and reports I hear and read it doesn't seem like that happens all that often. It seems to me to make more sense to spend a little more on a rifle of known accuracy if you're going to be spending five or ten grand feeding it over its life.

 

[Graham]

...playing Remington Roulette.

LOL! Well said.

 

[Papa Zero Three]

I guess if you have lucked out and got a good factory barrel and it's shooting the way you want it to that's true. I'm weighing my options for my first precision rifle and playing Remington Roulette doesn't seem all that appealing. I suppose if you get a factory rifle that provides the results you desire you should stick with it. Based on the reviews and reports I hear and read it doesn't seem like that happens all that often. It seems to me to make more sense to spend a little more on a rifle of known accuracy if you're going to be spending five or ten grand feeding it over its life.

Most people aren't capable of shooting as good as most guns can be shot, there are exceptions, but typically, it's the shooter that needs the most work, not the gun, even a factory gun.

You are talking about 2 different approaches. If you want to build a weapon of known accuracy, you are talking about doing something custom/semi custom right off the bat as opposed to buying a factory gun and improving on it as you go. Nothing wrong with either approach but if the meat behind the trigger is the weakest link, it's akin to putting a 16 year old behind the wheel of a ferrari going full custom and not doing anytime on a perfectly fine factory gun. Shoot the factory gun to see what it and you can do before selling it short. If you are certain you are capable of shooting better than the factory gun or have narrowed it down considerably, then look at re barreling and truing your action, etc. If you get a lemon gun,and it's unquestionable that it is the gun, then by all means, get it fixed.

 

[acts238]

it doesn't take very much trigger time to tell if your factory barrels a shooter or not.....
but I for one would like to know if I'm replacing a .5 moa barrel
and if I am ...why ?...................................................
the factory barrel on my FCP shot .5moa from day one

 

[EricM40]

If my budget was not a concern, then I would use a McMillan A5 stock; pillar bedded with marine tex, Big Horn S/A Cerakoted Tan w/a black bolt, Surgeon bottom metal, 21" nitrided Bergara Barrel SS 1:12 twist, Timney trigger, KMW Loggerhead, Badger rings w/S&B 5-25 with the Tremor2 reticle.

Unfortunately though, I cannot afford or need all that right now. My AR is good for most of what I need.

 

[kraigWY]

Don't discount the M1903a3 action. The can, easily be made into accurate shooters, plus there are plenty out there at reasonable prices.

This is the action the Army chose for their Mann Devices used in testing ammo for accuracy. They've been used in 308, '06, 30 Cal carbine and 45 ACP.

Good strong accurate action.

 

[Niles Coyote]

I have yet to get a Remington that didn’t shoot 3/4 moa or better (and mostly better) once a good stock and trigger was applied to the barreled action and skim or piller bedding added to relive stress.

But to answer your question… If I had the money for AI that’s what I would get.

If I were to build, I'd get a Remington varmint contour from a known good barrel maker if I was planning on using it for hunting at all. If it was strictly for matches or range use... I would move to a medium palma, heavy palma or the whitley palma (that is a hybrid of the two) chop to 21-24 inches (if in 308) and mount it to an action that can take AW mags (preferably an action with an integrated lug and rail) and drop that into a stock of my taste, most likely a Manners T4, AICS or AX chassis. Trigger it to taste but I like Timney set around 2.5-3 pounds. Coat it in a camo scheme of naked ladies assaulted by hello kitties or whatever… and call it killer.

 

[Mirnyx]

If I wanted something above and beyond a factory 700 in .308, I would buy an AIAE MkII or MkIII and call it a day.

 

[strike33]

I ended up going with a Rem action I had sitting around, Broughton LV 7.5 cut to 18.5 and threaded. Defiance bottom metal and EFR all in a Manners TF2. Its at PCR getting put together